Fitted to my Jeep are these Selectro locking hubs.
There doesn't seem to be much information about them anywhere. There's plenty of Selectro hubs for Jeeps, but they're a different type. All I can find on the ones I have is this very vague instruction sheet, which I found on a Land Rover forum:
Some of the design aspects seem a bit strange. The 9/16" bolts are impossible to use any 'normal' tools on. There's not enough clearance to get a ring spanner on, or even a socket. I've just been able to use an open ended spanner, but that isn't really satisfactory, since you can't turn it very far before the spanner hits the hub. The fitting of the split pin isn't great either.
Anyway, two things concern me. First, there's about 3mm axle end play. That is, the axle can slide back and forth 3mm. Is that normal?
Also the instructions say to do up the axle nut to 10-15 ft lbs. That isn't very much for an axle nut. Not only that, to get the castellation to line up for the split pin actually requires tightening to a lot more - I had to use about 50 ft lbs to get the nut to line up. Is this harmful?
Selectro locking hubs.
- cool386
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Selectro locking hubs.
John H
RHD MB tub/GPW chassis rebuild
1926 Model T Ford
RHD MB tub/GPW chassis rebuild
1926 Model T Ford
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kazaz123
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Re: Selectro locking hubs.
Not 100% sure I am following you but...
a) A thin wall socket should work with those bolts
b) These are floating axles. The rotating hub is attached over the outside of the axle tube and is held in position with two nuts behind your locking hub. The axle shaft plays no part in keeping the hubs from flying off. You can unbolt the drive axle shaft altogether and the hubs will stay in place. Torque specs seem useless to me with a castellated nut. You tighten the nut (subjective usage here) and then turn it further until a parapet gap in the nut lines up with the pin hole in the axle shaft. They're called cotter pins on the rebellious side of the Atlantic.
Regarding the axle shaft end play - there should be shims between the drive flange and hub to take up the slack. A collar in the drive axle provides a thrust surface on the inside of the hub and you need to take up any slack on the outside with shims. Your locking hub takes the place of the drive flange.
a) A thin wall socket should work with those bolts
b) These are floating axles. The rotating hub is attached over the outside of the axle tube and is held in position with two nuts behind your locking hub. The axle shaft plays no part in keeping the hubs from flying off. You can unbolt the drive axle shaft altogether and the hubs will stay in place. Torque specs seem useless to me with a castellated nut. You tighten the nut (subjective usage here) and then turn it further until a parapet gap in the nut lines up with the pin hole in the axle shaft. They're called cotter pins on the rebellious side of the Atlantic.
Regarding the axle shaft end play - there should be shims between the drive flange and hub to take up the slack. A collar in the drive axle provides a thrust surface on the inside of the hub and you need to take up any slack on the outside with shims. Your locking hub takes the place of the drive flange.
Al
1944 GPW 229063
1951 M38 32365
1944 GPW 229063
1951 M38 32365
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Marty, SoCal
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Re: Selectro locking hubs.
You might still be able to find 3/8-16tpi Allen head bolts to replace the hex bolts down under!


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- cool386
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Re: Selectro locking hubs.
Excellent idea, I might just try that!Marty, SoCal wrote: ↑Sat Jan 10, 2026 10:06 amYou might still be able to find 3/8-16tpi Allen head bolts to replace the hex bolts down under!
John H
RHD MB tub/GPW chassis rebuild
1926 Model T Ford
RHD MB tub/GPW chassis rebuild
1926 Model T Ford
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