A/C Drier

[Action]

If I am pulling the dash unit, I guess I should change the drier. Is one r-134a drier any different from another r-134a drier if they look the same? I see them from $10 to $40. Ny TM does not list an NSN.
The TM shows I need 6029035, which is also 6029364, which is Parker 4107316, for the m115x
epay has 07-00453, which is also 5716192, which is also Parker 085266-00, this would be thin m111x
one seller on epay has 4107316 in the title, but the box has 07-00453. according to Mac, those are different?
epay also has Chinese driers.

I will be buying one that has 4107316 on the drier, but would like to know what make these different inside.

Jason

[dilvoy]

Most definitely change it.

[Action]

I thought of trying to remove the heater core without removing the entire evaporator / heater assembly. I removed the dash duct and can see the core just inside the top of the unit. It can also be seen sticking out the LH side. I have all but 2 screws on the bottom LH side removed. The top of the front cover pulls away easily, but I need to get the bottom loose. The sealant between the plastic halves isn't the greatest. There is a gooey material sealing the gaps around the heater core. It is like the sticky bead of windshield sealant. I was trying to avoid taking apart the air filter and intake stack to remove those 4 bolts but may have to do that to reach the last screws. I, at a minimum, want to keep the a/c lines connected to save on evacuating and recharge and drier replacement. The flexible lines in the cab may give me just enough room.

Jason

[Ted Gates]

Thats a lot of pia work Jason. Taking apart is one thing, putting back together is another especially in situ. I took one apart on my bench and it was not fun. Be careful of the thermistor in the evaporator coil.

[Action]

I have the new core in and the unit put back together. I was able to lean the front of the assembly forward enough (away from the back half) to pull the core out. I ended up removing the overflow tank and the filter housing. The assembly is in place loosely right now. I tried to get the grommets in the firewall, but I need someone to move the unit around. Or I will tighten up the bolts and see if that centers the core tubes in the holes.

The top and bottom of the core I removed was rounded at the top and bottom (fin areas) and had some rows of fins in that area sticking out. I just installed this in 2016 in FL, so it hasn't frozen on my watch. Maybe the leaky core is why Paul had this reject. lol. I did find out where the orifice tube (or expansion valve) is located...behind the zip tied cover.

I thought I had tested my cap before. If that goes bad, could it blow the core? I would think a hose would let go first.

Jason

[Action]

Well, with 2 people, I put the grommets in the firewall first, with some Vaseline. I held the unit inside with dad outside to guide tubes into holes. The tubes pushed right in. I almost have everything back together now. I have someone bringing me some coolant from autozone.

Jason

[dilvoy]

OH My Gosh, Mine came from Paul too! I have not used it yet and now I am scared.

[Action]

OH My Gosh, Mine came from Paul too! I have not used it yet and now I am scared.

LOL! I could look in from the top and see that the core was bulged. When you look in, all lines should be straight. That won't help if the evaporator is messed up, though. My new core came with plugs in and a NITROGEN CHARGED sticker on it. Sticker is also on the core in the assembly. If you pull a plug out and it shoots out slightly, your core should be fine.

Jason

[dilvoy]

My evaporator still had the plate over the hose ends and had pressure when I removed it so that should be OK. I have filled the coolant system and used a Stant pump with Gauge to pressurize it and it held for an hour so hopefully the heater core is good too. Maybe Paul saved me the good one and gave the bad ones to you and Ted.

[Action]

My evaporator still had the plate over the hose ends and had pressure when I removed it so that should be OK. I have filled the coolant system and used a Stant pump with Gauge to pressurize it and it held for an hour so hopefully the heater core is good too. Maybe Paul saved me the good one and gave the bad ones to you and Ted.

33 1/3 % good product isn't a good thing to brag about. lol. But we expect something to be wrong with everything he sells! I didn't have any issue with the nuts and bolts I got from him, but I did have to break apart the nuts that were stuck together.

Jason