Weasel Track Bands.

[D.R.H.]

Today I did a little investigatory work into the outer track band. The drawing in another thread described the hold down cleats at a certain hardness. So I am thinking, why not use them again. It only took about 5 minutes to drill out 4 rivets and remove this broken section of band, and that was with the track wound up, laying on its' edge. Laying it flat will net faster results I think.

We can see where the rubber was vulcanized to the steel cleat. It did not take very much strength to peel it out of the band section.


The wire rope used in this application is not plow shear or stainless steel. This is not even aircraft grade wire rope. It feels very soft and it is of course, rusty. I know that I am not breaking ground new ground here with this topic, I'm just spitballing old ideas again. I am thinking about 3/4 inch thick by 1 inch wide strip of 4 ply conveyor belt, held in place by the original cleats with grade 8 nuts and bolts.
I made a 5 foot long sample like this back in 2005 when I had my other Weasels and it felt to be extremely strong. I may give this a shot.

[signsup]

Yep, you are on the right track. Presume you are only doing outer bands as the 3/4 will be to short for the inner band height. But no reason why this won't hold the grousers together and take some strain off the inner bands. I'll be doing the same, but two layers of conveyor belting with the cleats in between the two layers. End up with 1" and the look of the original bands with no tops of the cleats showing.

But, basically, the same as you. Pop out the rivets, replace with belting and cleats and bolt them in place through the original holes.

Don't know why it won't work. Until someone does it and it doesn't.

Good luck with the process. Are you going to do a whole track in one piece of belting? Or do separate sections of track and then connect them somehow?

[D.R.H.]

I found a conveyor belt repair/supply company locally. I was given a tour of their shop, big outfit. I will be able to purchase any thickness, cut to any width for a very reasonable price. Having multiple joints means multiple points of weakness. I think it would be better to have just one complete band with only one joint.
Yesterday's action was just for familiarization. I'll work on getting the track broken down over time, easier to tackle a bit at a time. It'll work out just fine in the end.

One thing Robert, how are you thinking about stacking the rubber belt to hide the cleat? How are you going to join the two together? I don't mean at the butt joint, but stacked?

[DIYJ]

Dave, are you going to be replacing your inner tracks bands as well?

[D.R.H.]

I don't know exactly what I will do to rebuild it. I haven't even unrolled it since it arrived. I like to get a "lay of the land" and roll things around in my empty head for a bit before I tackle a project. If I have had time to think in terms of playing Chess, the end product will turn out better than if I think in terms of Checkers.

[signsup]

I have sent samples of my conveyor belting material to an adhesive company who has recommended a particular two part vulcanizing cement for this application. I'll do like you, one splice between cleats for the first layer. One splice between two cleats 11 ft away from the first layer splice and it will be what it will be.
Doing all my gluing and laying out cleats on a jig that I will use current bands as a template for spacing. Once complete, I should have four bands with cleats bonded in between the two layers and then will bolt to restored grousers. A coat of flex seal on both side of the grousers and I still have to give some thought to road pads. Gluing on think belt layers may not provide a long term success. These pads take a a lot of stress, especially on tight turn on smooth pavement.