New owner
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- G-Private First Class
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:27 pm
- Location: Flowery Branch GA
New owner
Hey all, finally found a '43 GPW for a price I was ok with. It should be here Saturday.
Anything I need to know or should be aware of? Will take pics when I get it
Needs a few little things here and there but it runs, drives, starts, stops, etc.
Thanks
Tom
Anything I need to know or should be aware of? Will take pics when I get it
Needs a few little things here and there but it runs, drives, starts, stops, etc.
Thanks
Tom
- 1943Willysgpw
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2740
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 9:02 am
- Location: Edmond, OK
Re: New owner
Welcome to the G. Pictures would be great. Read as much as you can on other build threads here. It will give you a great start and keep you from making shared mistakes.
"None of us are as smart as all of us"
1942 GPW 1871 DoD 2-27-42 Dallas Plant
1945 GPW 247890 DoD 1-26-45 Louisville Plant
1942 GTB 136166 DoD 9-18-42
1942 GTB 135938 DoD
1952 M100
1942 GPW 1871 DoD 2-27-42 Dallas Plant
1945 GPW 247890 DoD 1-26-45 Louisville Plant
1942 GTB 136166 DoD 9-18-42
1942 GTB 135938 DoD
1952 M100
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- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 5:01 am
- Location: Newport, North Carolina
Re: New owner
Tom
Welcome great bunch of guys here that will help you! I have had a 43 Ford for over 25 years now.
You might want to put in your location, some one here might just live down the road from you.
You are going to love your jeep!
One of the few, Frank USMC RET
Welcome great bunch of guys here that will help you! I have had a 43 Ford for over 25 years now.
You might want to put in your location, some one here might just live down the road from you.
You are going to love your jeep!
One of the few, Frank USMC RET
- northcoastsailor
- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:35 pm
- Location:
Re: New owner
Get the manuals and parts lists. Read the manuals, learn them. Most of the questions people seem to have about jeeps are in the manuals which can be found for free online or cheap in print.
http://jeepdraw.com/
Midway down has a large selection of manuals. Also take a look at the CJ universal manual. My jeep has a mix of MB and CJ parts so for me it comes in handy, bit it also has some information the military manuals don't have, and in some regards can be easier to understand and get the point across.
http://jeepdraw.com/
Midway down has a large selection of manuals. Also take a look at the CJ universal manual. My jeep has a mix of MB and CJ parts so for me it comes in handy, bit it also has some information the military manuals don't have, and in some regards can be easier to understand and get the point across.
Not For Nothin' (A Jeep Salad consisting mostly of MB 432554)
- artificer
- banned
- Posts: 13558
- Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:46 am
- Location: SINGAPORE
Re: New owner
Frank USMC wrote: ↑Tue Jul 23, 2019 4:28 pmTom
Welcome great bunch of guys here that will help you! I have had a 43 Ford for over 25 years now.
You might want to put in your location, + 1 something we all like to know & it assists in helping sourcing parts etc. some one here might just live down the road from you.
You are going to love your jeep! One of the few, Frank USMC RET
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
-
- G-Brigadier General
- Posts: 2473
- Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2016 4:56 am
- Location: Birmingham, England
Re: New owner
Welcome to the best jeep website in the world Tom. There is an answer for every question on here, love to see some photos when she arrives.
- Chuck Lutz
- Gee Addict
- Posts: 26829
- Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 7:00 am
- Location: Jeep Heaven
Re: New owner
Get the SNL because guys will refer you to it for all kinds of things.
Get the repop FORD manuals TM 10-1348 and TM 10-1349 dated March 1943 if you can find them on Ebay or at some of the jeep parts sellers. Using LATER manuals may give you a legit part that fits but isn't/wasn't available or even looks the same as the original!
A new version of "The Military Jeep" by Lawrence Nabholtz will be out soon, while it is written from the MB point of view, I find that you often need to follow the changes to the MBs to understand some of the changes to the GPWs.
Get the repop TM 9-803 as well...written to cover GPWs and MBs, but invaluable for many problems and issues you will invariably run into. It at least will explain how some things/systems "worked" in the late 1930s/early 1940s.
If you have been lurking here for awhile, you will note that guys tend to steer you to the website host, Ron Fitzpatrick for parts. While he does support this website, that's not all....you can rely on excellent service and know that if he doesn't carry a part that probably it is either crap or wrong for another reason...so, that's why they promote his parts business....oh yeah, he and his staff are super nice guys as opposed to others in the parts game!
Get the repop FORD manuals TM 10-1348 and TM 10-1349 dated March 1943 if you can find them on Ebay or at some of the jeep parts sellers. Using LATER manuals may give you a legit part that fits but isn't/wasn't available or even looks the same as the original!
A new version of "The Military Jeep" by Lawrence Nabholtz will be out soon, while it is written from the MB point of view, I find that you often need to follow the changes to the MBs to understand some of the changes to the GPWs.
Get the repop TM 9-803 as well...written to cover GPWs and MBs, but invaluable for many problems and issues you will invariably run into. It at least will explain how some things/systems "worked" in the late 1930s/early 1940s.
If you have been lurking here for awhile, you will note that guys tend to steer you to the website host, Ron Fitzpatrick for parts. While he does support this website, that's not all....you can rely on excellent service and know that if he doesn't carry a part that probably it is either crap or wrong for another reason...so, that's why they promote his parts business....oh yeah, he and his staff are super nice guys as opposed to others in the parts game!
Chuck Lutz
GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947
GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947
- W. Winget
- LTC, U.S. Army
- Posts: 4468
- Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 10:37 am
- Location: USA, Virginia, Carrollton
- Contact:
Re: New owner
Tom WELCOME! and congratulations on pulling the trigger
With regard to your question, you need to be aware of:
- Gently shift the transmission (I use two fingers, not a hand) and let her tell you she's ready for the next gear, not jam the stick into it or she may just decide to stay in that gear for a while.
- Remember you cannot gear down into 1st gear, there are no synchronizers to spin the gears up to speed.
-Drive with the windshield up, possibly opened slightly by 4 inches for the best breeze, and wear glasses if possible as dust and bugs do tend to whack you.
- Prepare your 4th point of contact for a harsh ride if driving a while. (depends on your seat material, but there's not a lot of cushion no matter which...)
- Plan on double checking your fuel after an hour (and oil level) following the 1st full tank to see if the gauge is working, or tank leaking out somewhere, which after an hour should show a level on the gauge to be reliable or just a dash hole filler needing work.
- Carry a good jack and wrench plus a block of wood, it's a tall stretch to get to the axle with the wrong jack.
- Expect a lot of hand waves, especially from modern jeep owners, even if it's a GPW
- The steering is not the same as any other car you have driven and DO take some time to get used to her before a Honda cuts in front of you and slams on the brakes, she may grab and pull to one side, (frequent issue) so do a few rapid 'brake check's on a wide private road or parking lot to understand how she reacts in an emergency.
- Don't forget to turn the ignition off so the points don't heatup and things go South from there.
- Expect to NEVER see a speed above 50mph and forget about an interstate without a towbar or trailer, etc., not just for longevity, but safety of others that WILL run you down as MB/GPW does not show up on their cell phone app alerting them you are in front of them going slow
- No rabbit starts, it's made for offroad not drag races and there's nothing to prove in a 75+ year old girl.
- Brakes are MUCH easier and cheaper to replace than the clutch or engine parts, avoid gearing down which just revs the engine and wears the clutch out earlier.
- Fully anticipate everyone asking where they can get one, and their Uncle had several last Summer that he bought for $50 and if you can get one for them they want it to "go Hunting"as well as "I drove those when I was in the Army" (thinking an M151 is the same vehicle) (WWII/Korea Vets the exception...)
-If not driven frequently, she will bite you in the butt, refusing to start, battery dying, grounds corroding, oil marking her territory and other maladies.
- Tire pressure check is important, not just for wear, she will handle differently with almost flat tires that don't look flat..,
- It rains inside the windshield just as much as outside, even if you have a top up, and rain will drain onto your legs, now you know.
- She has ZERO safety belts or padded dash, airbags, etc. and the passengers don't really have hand grips, people can and do fall out of them and do get banged up and bloody if horsing around...
- Enjoy the HEll out of her and ask here as recommended above, you can receive a LOT of diverse suggestions to help you get her back into fighting prime.
V/R W Winget
42 GPW
Edit: you can forget about explaining that FORD actually made jeeps, they won't understand/care.... just nod your head when they say "Nice Willys"
With regard to your question, you need to be aware of:
- Gently shift the transmission (I use two fingers, not a hand) and let her tell you she's ready for the next gear, not jam the stick into it or she may just decide to stay in that gear for a while.
- Remember you cannot gear down into 1st gear, there are no synchronizers to spin the gears up to speed.
-Drive with the windshield up, possibly opened slightly by 4 inches for the best breeze, and wear glasses if possible as dust and bugs do tend to whack you.
- Prepare your 4th point of contact for a harsh ride if driving a while. (depends on your seat material, but there's not a lot of cushion no matter which...)
- Plan on double checking your fuel after an hour (and oil level) following the 1st full tank to see if the gauge is working, or tank leaking out somewhere, which after an hour should show a level on the gauge to be reliable or just a dash hole filler needing work.
- Carry a good jack and wrench plus a block of wood, it's a tall stretch to get to the axle with the wrong jack.
- Expect a lot of hand waves, especially from modern jeep owners, even if it's a GPW
- The steering is not the same as any other car you have driven and DO take some time to get used to her before a Honda cuts in front of you and slams on the brakes, she may grab and pull to one side, (frequent issue) so do a few rapid 'brake check's on a wide private road or parking lot to understand how she reacts in an emergency.
- Don't forget to turn the ignition off so the points don't heatup and things go South from there.
- Expect to NEVER see a speed above 50mph and forget about an interstate without a towbar or trailer, etc., not just for longevity, but safety of others that WILL run you down as MB/GPW does not show up on their cell phone app alerting them you are in front of them going slow
- No rabbit starts, it's made for offroad not drag races and there's nothing to prove in a 75+ year old girl.
- Brakes are MUCH easier and cheaper to replace than the clutch or engine parts, avoid gearing down which just revs the engine and wears the clutch out earlier.
- Fully anticipate everyone asking where they can get one, and their Uncle had several last Summer that he bought for $50 and if you can get one for them they want it to "go Hunting"as well as "I drove those when I was in the Army" (thinking an M151 is the same vehicle) (WWII/Korea Vets the exception...)
-If not driven frequently, she will bite you in the butt, refusing to start, battery dying, grounds corroding, oil marking her territory and other maladies.
- Tire pressure check is important, not just for wear, she will handle differently with almost flat tires that don't look flat..,
- It rains inside the windshield just as much as outside, even if you have a top up, and rain will drain onto your legs, now you know.
- She has ZERO safety belts or padded dash, airbags, etc. and the passengers don't really have hand grips, people can and do fall out of them and do get banged up and bloody if horsing around...
- Enjoy the HEll out of her and ask here as recommended above, you can receive a LOT of diverse suggestions to help you get her back into fighting prime.
V/R W Winget
42 GPW
Edit: you can forget about explaining that FORD actually made jeeps, they won't understand/care.... just nod your head when they say "Nice Willys"
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
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- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1622
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 5:01 am
- Location: Newport, North Carolina
Re: New owner
Great write up Winget!
I am going to show it to my Marine volunteers here on Saturday......since one of them did leave the ignition switch in the on position!
One of the few, Frank USMC RET
I am going to show it to my Marine volunteers here on Saturday......since one of them did leave the ignition switch in the on position!
One of the few, Frank USMC RET
-
- G-Private First Class
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:27 pm
- Location: Flowery Branch GA
Re: New owner
Got it last week and noticed a few issues, I've posted a couple times on the facebook page but just remembered to update the thread here.
Took it out and about and it was fun, could only get up to 30 (using gps on my phone) without it shaking my teeth out. I'm gonna see if new tires / balancing these will help and if not, I'll check further into it.
Starter was not engaging all the way and when I pulled it, saw that the teeth are ground down. I'm gonna try to get it rebuilt.
I knew the speedometer didn't work and figured I'd swap the cable to see if that would do it. I didn't even think about pulling the battery as it's purely mechanical. As I was pulling the cable through the firewall it touched something hot. Before I could get the battery un-plugged it caught on fire. I contained it to the area under the dash on the passenger side.
I've already ordered a new wiring harness, new water temp gauge, new felt grommets for the firewall, anything else I can't think of?
Also needs new glass for the windshield and the previous owner had disconnected the oil filter so I'll replace the hoses and start using it again.
Thanks all. This is becoming quite the project.
Tom
Took it out and about and it was fun, could only get up to 30 (using gps on my phone) without it shaking my teeth out. I'm gonna see if new tires / balancing these will help and if not, I'll check further into it.
Starter was not engaging all the way and when I pulled it, saw that the teeth are ground down. I'm gonna try to get it rebuilt.
I knew the speedometer didn't work and figured I'd swap the cable to see if that would do it. I didn't even think about pulling the battery as it's purely mechanical. As I was pulling the cable through the firewall it touched something hot. Before I could get the battery un-plugged it caught on fire. I contained it to the area under the dash on the passenger side.
I've already ordered a new wiring harness, new water temp gauge, new felt grommets for the firewall, anything else I can't think of?
Also needs new glass for the windshield and the previous owner had disconnected the oil filter so I'll replace the hoses and start using it again.
Thanks all. This is becoming quite the project.
Tom
- W. Winget
- LTC, U.S. Army
- Posts: 4468
- Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 10:37 am
- Location: USA, Virginia, Carrollton
- Contact:
Re: New owner
All Links below are to Ron's parts, I'm not saying you need to buy anything yet, you need to diagnose the problem area first. It can usually be associated with the following:
Steering wobble can be from the King Pin Bearing wear (adjustment by adding /subtracting shims),
Shims
https://www.rfjp.com/p-774-king-pin-adj ... a6882.aspx
Or replaceing then shimming new Bearings (only if yours are bad, try repacking yours 1st)
https://www.rfjp.com/p-753-bearing-king ... 52940.aspx
Cones (each bearing has a "Cone" (or RACE) as they are known)
https://www.rfjp.com/p-754-bearing-king ... 52941.aspx
Front Spring mount pivot deterioration, (things wear out...)
Spring Pivot bushing:
https://www.rfjp.com/p-1008-spring-pivo ... 59039.aspx
Spring Shackle Bushings (left and right)
https://www.rfjp.com/p-1010-spring-shac ... 02061.aspx
https://www.rfjp.com/p-1011-spring-shac ... 02062.aspx
and Drag Link being loose (long bar with slotted end that has cotter pin in the end, remove pin and screw a little tighter before replacing).
https://www.rfjp.com/p-913-mb-gpw-drag- ... a6791.aspx
There are a few other components it may be, but all are available and replaceable. (in your driveway or garage)
Start by lifting both wheels, placing the firmly axle on jack stands (tires on), then seeing if there is play up and down, left and right and in and out in the wheel hub, watching as it is moved for loose components. (your lifting and moving the tire, it provides leverage here)
It may also be as simple as a loose spindle bearing, or need to tighten the steering box gear a little, (this is usually associated with wandering though) so diagnosis, tweaking and then replacement are the best way to proceed.
If you knew anyone that had been working on front axle alignment for 4x4's for a LONG time in your area, they may offer up great experience.
Wait just 5 more minutes here.....and you will get ALL that expertise and corrections about the above information posted right here.....
Above all, share and let others know what you find as you go along so the lessons are not lost between diagnosis, parts worn and fixes made.
V/R W Winget
Edit:
I looked for a good diagram to illustrate the In-Out, Left Right, Up Down check and could not find one. What I did find (and this is for King Pins, not bearings) was an inspection technique which could yield some assistance with an aide in checking the king Pin bearings for slop:
"Safety Inspection: Apply service brake to eliminate wheel bearing movement. With front end lifted
and jacks installed, grasp tire at top and bottom and attempt to move in and out. Reject the vehicle
if measurement at the top and bottom of the tire at the outer circumference is greater than listed
below: 16” or less wheel - 1/4”,...."
So substitute the TM's guidance for wear here for inspection, but the application of the brake will eliminate the bearing's looseness, something often mistaken for worn kingpin bearings...
Left/ right movement (twisting wheel sideways) will look at your tie rod ends and steering linkages
Up/ Down (lifting tire and hub) movement will look at hub as well as king Pin bearings and spring movement
Back / Forth (pulling in/out bottom and in/out top of tire) movement can also yield hub (king pin bearing) and wheel bearing slop
WAW
Steering wobble can be from the King Pin Bearing wear (adjustment by adding /subtracting shims),
Shims
https://www.rfjp.com/p-774-king-pin-adj ... a6882.aspx
Or replaceing then shimming new Bearings (only if yours are bad, try repacking yours 1st)
https://www.rfjp.com/p-753-bearing-king ... 52940.aspx
Cones (each bearing has a "Cone" (or RACE) as they are known)
https://www.rfjp.com/p-754-bearing-king ... 52941.aspx
Front Spring mount pivot deterioration, (things wear out...)
Spring Pivot bushing:
https://www.rfjp.com/p-1008-spring-pivo ... 59039.aspx
Spring Shackle Bushings (left and right)
https://www.rfjp.com/p-1010-spring-shac ... 02061.aspx
https://www.rfjp.com/p-1011-spring-shac ... 02062.aspx
and Drag Link being loose (long bar with slotted end that has cotter pin in the end, remove pin and screw a little tighter before replacing).
https://www.rfjp.com/p-913-mb-gpw-drag- ... a6791.aspx
There are a few other components it may be, but all are available and replaceable. (in your driveway or garage)
Start by lifting both wheels, placing the firmly axle on jack stands (tires on), then seeing if there is play up and down, left and right and in and out in the wheel hub, watching as it is moved for loose components. (your lifting and moving the tire, it provides leverage here)
It may also be as simple as a loose spindle bearing, or need to tighten the steering box gear a little, (this is usually associated with wandering though) so diagnosis, tweaking and then replacement are the best way to proceed.
If you knew anyone that had been working on front axle alignment for 4x4's for a LONG time in your area, they may offer up great experience.
Wait just 5 more minutes here.....and you will get ALL that expertise and corrections about the above information posted right here.....
Above all, share and let others know what you find as you go along so the lessons are not lost between diagnosis, parts worn and fixes made.
V/R W Winget
Edit:
I looked for a good diagram to illustrate the In-Out, Left Right, Up Down check and could not find one. What I did find (and this is for King Pins, not bearings) was an inspection technique which could yield some assistance with an aide in checking the king Pin bearings for slop:
"Safety Inspection: Apply service brake to eliminate wheel bearing movement. With front end lifted
and jacks installed, grasp tire at top and bottom and attempt to move in and out. Reject the vehicle
if measurement at the top and bottom of the tire at the outer circumference is greater than listed
below: 16” or less wheel - 1/4”,...."
So substitute the TM's guidance for wear here for inspection, but the application of the brake will eliminate the bearing's looseness, something often mistaken for worn kingpin bearings...
Left/ right movement (twisting wheel sideways) will look at your tie rod ends and steering linkages
Up/ Down (lifting tire and hub) movement will look at hub as well as king Pin bearings and spring movement
Back / Forth (pulling in/out bottom and in/out top of tire) movement can also yield hub (king pin bearing) and wheel bearing slop
WAW
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
-
- G-Brigadier General
- Posts: 2473
- Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2016 4:56 am
- Location: Birmingham, England
Re: New owner
Nice jeep Tom, looks like you have a bit of work ahead of you, but youre one of us now.
- artificer
- banned
- Posts: 13558
- Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:46 am
- Location: SINGAPORE
Re: New owner
Good idea for ANYONE:
When anything is happening under dash [even sticking hands under there] plus repairing/removing/working on electrical items like the starter, disconnect the battery. Same thing as happened often occurs with movement of the temperature sender capillary tube under the dash!
The starter Bendix is not returning to rest but running lightly against [not enough to engage] the ring gear when the engine is running @ RPM.
Most likely because of all the grease/grit on same. This component is meant to run DRY or with just a smear of kerosene/diesel or very light sewing machine oil.
Doesn't need replacing just re-establish the tooth lead in angle with a dremel or similar [angle grinder & good eyes plus a steady hand, will work very quickly]. Wash all grindings off with kerosene & the residual on the Bendix helix drive, used to engage, will be lubricated more than sufficiently. Only grease is on the end shaft & bushing in the bell housing.
Also
The shafts must be assembled correctly & not any degrees out. [the following is not my art!]
When anything is happening under dash [even sticking hands under there] plus repairing/removing/working on electrical items like the starter, disconnect the battery. Same thing as happened often occurs with movement of the temperature sender capillary tube under the dash!
The starter Bendix is not returning to rest but running lightly against [not enough to engage] the ring gear when the engine is running @ RPM.
Most likely because of all the grease/grit on same. This component is meant to run DRY or with just a smear of kerosene/diesel or very light sewing machine oil.
Doesn't need replacing just re-establish the tooth lead in angle with a dremel or similar [angle grinder & good eyes plus a steady hand, will work very quickly]. Wash all grindings off with kerosene & the residual on the Bendix helix drive, used to engage, will be lubricated more than sufficiently. Only grease is on the end shaft & bushing in the bell housing.
Also
Suggest Tom [& others with unexplained vibrations increasing with road speed] check 'phasing' of the driveshaft/s as a very possible cause of his/your problem. Especially if new uni's have been fitted &/or the driveshafts have been pulled apart.Tom wrote:could only get up to 30 (using gps on my phone) without it shaking my teeth out. I'm gonna see if new tires / balancing these will help and if not, I'll check further into it.
The shafts must be assembled correctly & not any degrees out. [the following is not my art!]
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
- Lee Bishop
- G503 War Correspondent
- Posts: 2740
- Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2002 6:46 pm
- Location: Pacific Northwest USA, via North Florida
Re: New owner
So a new WW2 Jeep owner, huh?
Congrats!
As for the waves, it's cool, but the thing nobody warned me about when I got my own MB 20 years ago was the numbskulls who pull up alongside you and honk their horns. I have mastered a (non-obscene) gesture that communicates, "Thanks for deafening me, there's nothing between your horn and my ear, less than 10 feet away!" to which I always get the embarrassed shrug signifying, "Sorry, man, I didn't think about that," and they always pull away quickly, feeling badly I assume.
Congrats!
Yeah, the $50 Jeep in a crate story is an urban legend but generations of people refuse to accept that (even though you'll never meet one with any proof of it ever happening to them).W. Winget wrote: ↑Wed Jul 24, 2019 3:43 pm- Expect a lot of hand waves, especially from modern jeep owners, even if it's a GPW
- Fully anticipate everyone asking where they can get one, and their Uncle had several last Summer that he bought for $50 and if you can get one for them they want it to "go Hunting"as well as "I drove those when I was in the Army" (thinking an M151 is the same vehicle) (WWII/Korea Vets the exception...)
As for the waves, it's cool, but the thing nobody warned me about when I got my own MB 20 years ago was the numbskulls who pull up alongside you and honk their horns. I have mastered a (non-obscene) gesture that communicates, "Thanks for deafening me, there's nothing between your horn and my ear, less than 10 feet away!" to which I always get the embarrassed shrug signifying, "Sorry, man, I didn't think about that," and they always pull away quickly, feeling badly I assume.
Owner, 1944 Willys MB #366014
Former US Army Captain and REMF
Former US Army Captain and REMF
-
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5652
- Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:29 pm
- Location:
Re: New owner
Hello,
That is a beautiful Jeep !!!
A wonderful piece of our history !!
Lee,
Just a little info ... The crated jeeps were 100 percent true, and sold by the
War Assets Administration, sold alongside regular used jeeps, and were listed as such.
The $50 price tag is totally the urban legend
But the USA did indeed sell WW2 jeeps, listed for sale as a "crated " or "boxed" jeep.
They were also brand new, not fully assembled.
A G503 member has one, and has all the original Veterans Preference sales program documents that came with his originally crated , brand new, jeep.
Here is the link :
( Note: Thanks to the jackwagon, nut case run, company called photo bucket, they have put there obscene large logo on top of every picture, interfering with them.)
But scroll down to lower docs and you can see the government description of the new, crated, boxed jeeps available for sale.
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=289307&hilit=crate+jeep
Best Regards,
Ray
That is a beautiful Jeep !!!
A wonderful piece of our history !!
Lee,
Just a little info ... The crated jeeps were 100 percent true, and sold by the
War Assets Administration, sold alongside regular used jeeps, and were listed as such.
The $50 price tag is totally the urban legend
But the USA did indeed sell WW2 jeeps, listed for sale as a "crated " or "boxed" jeep.
They were also brand new, not fully assembled.
A G503 member has one, and has all the original Veterans Preference sales program documents that came with his originally crated , brand new, jeep.
Here is the link :
( Note: Thanks to the jackwagon, nut case run, company called photo bucket, they have put there obscene large logo on top of every picture, interfering with them.)
But scroll down to lower docs and you can see the government description of the new, crated, boxed jeeps available for sale.
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=289307&hilit=crate+jeep
Best Regards,
Ray
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