PE 95 G will not turn over.

[Adam]

With all the junk out of the way, all we are trying to do is to get 12 volts on this cable. this cable from the generator section connects to the left side or the inner side of the solenoid looking from the front.








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[Adam]

I thought there was a comment about batteries boiling and test light getting dimmer. dont know where the test light was connected soo? batteries boiling means toomuch current being pulled, most likely lost a ground or brush circuit on the parrallel field coils.The field coils are the 4 coils in the above picture,

You can pull the brushes out, disconnect 2 or3 wires, depending on serial number and 4 bolts and remove the cover and housing.

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[Adam]

With the 4 coils sill on the unit, and the brushes disconnected or removed, make sure the 3 loose wires aren't touching ground, apply 12 volts to the main cable on the solenoid, all 3 wires will have 12 volts to ground. use your test light, light should be bright as when it is connected to battery. with no power applied, 2 bigger coil wires each read O ohms to ground. Smaller wire reads 6 Ohms to ground

With power applied, Bigger wires to ground will handle a big test light, ex a car headllight, smaller wire will only light a small test light.

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[Adam]

If above all tests good, I would look into the brushes and their mountings and grounds. the commutator brushes, not the slip ring brushes. this picture shows a brush, its wiring to a small stud and then to ground. there are 2 of these grounded brushed in the brush holder assembly. Loosing one of them will boil your batteries, or heat up any bad connections from the battery, probably making smoke if the connection is that bad. Keep power on too long it will burn out a set of coils.


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[Adam]

The commutator should look unburnt and smooth, a layer of carbon on it wont hurt. clean it off a little with non conductive cleaner.

With it sitting like this, still in the genset, battery connected to ground, touch a jumper wire from battery positive to any of the commutator bars Nothing should happen. ex no sparks. If it sparks it is shorted to ground. With the jumper still on one bar, put your test light on all the other bars, one by one, light should light. this will only test for an open, not for internal shorts.

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[Adam]

There is nothing in the bigger part of the generator section that controls cranking.
For the PE95
If you opt to replace the rotor or stator, this unit is a 4 pole unit. It turns at 1800 rpm's. A 6 pole rotor or stator wont work as they turn at 1200 rpm's

count the 4 big coils on the rotor, and you can make out the 4 main coil groups on the stator

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[pittsjock]

Nice writeup Adam!

[matt506]

Hate to say it but I have done very little lately. I will try both suggestions. The last I had done was put a jeep starter on it and try to crank strait from a battery, nothing. Then grounded directly to the flywheel cover nothing, butttt...... when trying through the selonoid, the selonoid sticks on but I can crank easier with the hand crank. It is like something is really not giving it enough umpf. It cranks hard by ghand, not at all by battery, but somewhat easy useing both.

[Adam]

I expect it to be hard to crank by hand. Just went out and tried to crank my MB and back up generator engines. Forget it, the MB engine is like new, Cranks 1/2 turn then stops as compression builds, takes a bit to overcome it and then it stops at the next pistons compression. Cranks good electrically on 6 Volts and will run all day.

Same with the genset, its on a trailer and the crank is easy to get to in the air, yet very tough to crank. The genset cranks over using the internal generator starting system with no problem, plenty of oil pressure and will also run all day.

Only one I could crank had no spark plugs in it and 2 known dead cylinders. Maybe I'm getting too old for this stuff and need to go back to an E-3.

Adam.

[Adam]

Little update, if anybody out there is following this for their unit, the serial number for most of this info is 11336 and up for the PE95G. That's the info posted inside the electrical panel.
If your unit is earlier there is a difference in the wiring and the schematics. On another post topic, differences in schematics were questioned, with no sure answer as to what the differences were.
PE95 g's with 4 digit serial numbers use a different schematic. A different series and exciter shunt field assembly is in these units. The 4 of them are connected as to only have 1 big output lead that is connected to 1 commutator brush with a big jumper going to the brush 180 degrees apart.
In the pictures you can see the 1 big output lead from the series field along with the exciter wire, Battery power in lead is on the other side of the unit.
Big jumper wire can be seen on the brush assembly. Mice got to this unit and most wire insulation is gone. Only schematic I have for the early units doses not show internal connections for these coils.

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