Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
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Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
I cannot decide which voltage to use on my August (8th) 1944 WC52.
I have both generators and other 6 and 12 volt items, so I can go either way.
Unfortunately I don't know the hood number and it is a composite truck with a Plymouth engine. I wonder if the 12 volt generator will even bolt on to this engine. This may force me in one direction.
Any ideas?
I have both generators and other 6 and 12 volt items, so I can go either way.
Unfortunately I don't know the hood number and it is a composite truck with a Plymouth engine. I wonder if the 12 volt generator will even bolt on to this engine. This may force me in one direction.
Any ideas?
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Hi
Aug 44 is close to the change over date
Do you have a battery tray under the hood? if so, your truck is 6 volt
the 12 volt truck had the batter in the front right tool compartment of the bed. and is is the giant battery. the 8D
either generator will bolt up as long as you have the correct bracket
Ernie
Aug 44 is close to the change over date
Do you have a battery tray under the hood? if so, your truck is 6 volt
the 12 volt truck had the batter in the front right tool compartment of the bed. and is is the giant battery. the 8D
either generator will bolt up as long as you have the correct bracket
Ernie
Rip Dad 1/22/24 to 12/21/11
I will always love and miss you.
Ernie Baals MVPA 104C and 3104, AACA, SJC MVPA
Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government
that requires every citizen to prove
they are insured……but not everyone
must prove they are a citizen”
I will always love and miss you.
Ernie Baals MVPA 104C and 3104, AACA, SJC MVPA
Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government
that requires every citizen to prove
they are insured……but not everyone
must prove they are a citizen”
- W. Winget
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
If you don't have the original 12V system (i.e. large battery box Ernie mentions) then your decision to go 6 or 12 is based on Owner desires, not originality per-se. I can only suggest that the in-line 6 engine is a PITA to hand crank (been there tried it with warm engine/dead battery) Between having to unroll the winch cable manually to allow the handle to be inserted using the proper drop down bumper support (which is all legit by the manual procedure) then finally giving up and finding a jump, I would highly recommend a 12V system. The battery could still fit up in the engine compartment of a 6V truck if it is still 6V and you wanted to upgrade. The Military generator for 12V may be too big to fit both battery and gen in there and you may have to find a smaller 12V generator from another application, or disguise an alternator if your really trying to daily drive her.
If you never open the Left side of the hood for displays, no one would know if there was an alternator in there.
My '42 Command Car has space for the original large 'tractor' battery on the running board, but I use standard car group batteries...they have more than enough Amps, the large old one only had 1100 amps, maybe it was just the tech at the time, but some car sized Die-Hards have this as well now, and I'm not running a radio set, which was the primary reason for the 12V system. The bulbs are simply unsoldered from the tailight containers and swapped out with 12V models, you can use the outer headlights from a 4 headlight car of the late 60's to 70's (low beams have High and Low,hence three connectors, Highs only two connections for just high beam, so buy outer high/low bulbs) The only consideration I would say of concern might be your fuel gauge may be 6V, and a drop down resistor may fix that, but check with someone, mine's never worked in 30 years, so I just top off the 30 Gallon tank every trip I go out on...haven't ran out of fuel (yet)
Just some considerations, bottom line it's your truck until it's sold to someone for the next phase of it's life.
V/R W. Winget
If you never open the Left side of the hood for displays, no one would know if there was an alternator in there.
My '42 Command Car has space for the original large 'tractor' battery on the running board, but I use standard car group batteries...they have more than enough Amps, the large old one only had 1100 amps, maybe it was just the tech at the time, but some car sized Die-Hards have this as well now, and I'm not running a radio set, which was the primary reason for the 12V system. The bulbs are simply unsoldered from the tailight containers and swapped out with 12V models, you can use the outer headlights from a 4 headlight car of the late 60's to 70's (low beams have High and Low,hence three connectors, Highs only two connections for just high beam, so buy outer high/low bulbs) The only consideration I would say of concern might be your fuel gauge may be 6V, and a drop down resistor may fix that, but check with someone, mine's never worked in 30 years, so I just top off the 30 Gallon tank every trip I go out on...haven't ran out of fuel (yet)
Just some considerations, bottom line it's your truck until it's sold to someone for the next phase of it's life.
V/R W. Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
- dpcd67
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Definitely 12. I'm building my 43 WC63, in 12 volts. Because I hate 6 volt systems for reasons well outlined on this forum. Correct? No. Reliable? Yes.
U. S. Army 28 years.
Armor Branch
Armor Branch
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
I have never had a problem with any of the 6 colt systems in my Dodges.
The jeeps give me fits, but the dodge crank over great
The jeeps give me fits, but the dodge crank over great
Rip Dad 1/22/24 to 12/21/11
I will always love and miss you.
Ernie Baals MVPA 104C and 3104, AACA, SJC MVPA
Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government
that requires every citizen to prove
they are insured……but not everyone
must prove they are a citizen”
I will always love and miss you.
Ernie Baals MVPA 104C and 3104, AACA, SJC MVPA
Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government
that requires every citizen to prove
they are insured……but not everyone
must prove they are a citizen”
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
My WC63 is in its original 6Volt configuration and it works just fine.12 Volts would have advantages but not enough to warrant a change over.
David
David
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
I am looking for the 12 volt battery tray and hold down equipment. After Eric decides and finds what he needs first of course. Thanks
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Hi Eric:
I guess it also sort of depends on what you are going to do with the truck. I have a couple of 3/4 ton Dodges. I kept the Air Transportable -51 as 6 volt for historical reasons. But I use it only for shows, displays at the airport and parades. The '45 -52 and the '44 -56 are both 12 volt. I drive these two on a fairly regular basis, including several of the MVPA Cross Country Convoys and at camp in the north central mountains of Pennsylvania during the summer. With the rotten alcohol polluted gasoline we now have to burn, I have consistent vapor lock problems when driven hard and in the heat of summer. Unfortunately, I do not have a steady availability of regular, non alcoholic gas. I have cured the problem by using a commercial grade electric gear fuel pump, similar to the ones they use on refer trailers. I have them on a switch. When she starts to sputter, chug or otherwise carry-on like it is starved for fuel, a flick of the switch and they are purring right along a couple of seconds later. I've been in a couple of situations where I needed to run it all of the time to stay up with the convoy. The problem is of course, that type of pump only comes in 12 volt.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Walter
I guess it also sort of depends on what you are going to do with the truck. I have a couple of 3/4 ton Dodges. I kept the Air Transportable -51 as 6 volt for historical reasons. But I use it only for shows, displays at the airport and parades. The '45 -52 and the '44 -56 are both 12 volt. I drive these two on a fairly regular basis, including several of the MVPA Cross Country Convoys and at camp in the north central mountains of Pennsylvania during the summer. With the rotten alcohol polluted gasoline we now have to burn, I have consistent vapor lock problems when driven hard and in the heat of summer. Unfortunately, I do not have a steady availability of regular, non alcoholic gas. I have cured the problem by using a commercial grade electric gear fuel pump, similar to the ones they use on refer trailers. I have them on a switch. When she starts to sputter, chug or otherwise carry-on like it is starved for fuel, a flick of the switch and they are purring right along a couple of seconds later. I've been in a couple of situations where I needed to run it all of the time to stay up with the convoy. The problem is of course, that type of pump only comes in 12 volt.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Walter
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Walter
Are you using the Zenith or Carter Carb? Only time I thought I had vapor lock turned out to be fuel pump pin coming out of pivot hole not moving fuel properly (with my Zenith)
Just curious if it's the "type' carb maybe giving problems.
V/R W Winget
Are you using the Zenith or Carter Carb? Only time I thought I had vapor lock turned out to be fuel pump pin coming out of pivot hole not moving fuel properly (with my Zenith)
Just curious if it's the "type' carb maybe giving problems.
V/R W Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Hi all,
I have decided to go with 12 volts, as it is much easier. I am going to fit an electric fuel pump and LED tail lights.
The issue now is to find the correct battery tray and battery leads.
If anyone has drawings for the big battery tray, it would be appreciated. I would like to use leads that look correct, so I am on the hunt.
I wonder if there are reproduction leads available. I am very reluctant to use NOS or 2nd hand as they are probably corroded internally.
They are probably the same as the command car.
To fix the vapour lock, I was shown to make the fuel line longer , away from the manifold, insulate it, and add another heat shield.
I now have 2 Carter ETWs and I am making one good one. On the subject of this, the carb manifold gasket in my new overhaul kit looks to be asbestos .
I would not use it, but bag it and dispose of it.
cheers
I have decided to go with 12 volts, as it is much easier. I am going to fit an electric fuel pump and LED tail lights.
The issue now is to find the correct battery tray and battery leads.
If anyone has drawings for the big battery tray, it would be appreciated. I would like to use leads that look correct, so I am on the hunt.
I wonder if there are reproduction leads available. I am very reluctant to use NOS or 2nd hand as they are probably corroded internally.
They are probably the same as the command car.
To fix the vapour lock, I was shown to make the fuel line longer , away from the manifold, insulate it, and add another heat shield.
I now have 2 Carter ETWs and I am making one good one. On the subject of this, the carb manifold gasket in my new overhaul kit looks to be asbestos .
I would not use it, but bag it and dispose of it.
cheers
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Good Morning Winget:
They are all Carters. All three trucks came from junk yards and were total basket cases when acquired. As a result all three were restored starting with a bare frame. Given the availability the Carter carbs and parts and the lack there of on the Zenith's, I went the practical route. I attached a before and after on the -56.
Regards,
Walter
They are all Carters. All three trucks came from junk yards and were total basket cases when acquired. As a result all three were restored starting with a bare frame. Given the availability the Carter carbs and parts and the lack there of on the Zenith's, I went the practical route. I attached a before and after on the -56.
Regards,
Walter
- W. Winget
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Outstanding work.
I had a similar save from the farm, everyone looked at me like I was crazy to rescue a piece of junk.
Only issue I ever had with the Zenith was the acc. pump locked up due to Ethanol in her sitting while I was away to Afghanistan. She's runs well with zero adjustments for the past 30 years. I know a lot of folks go with the Carters, I think they were correct for later years, but my 42's Zenith (not original to the girl) seems to have been made on a good work day at the factory.
Great Job there!
V/R W Winget
Edit:
Nothing wrong with using an asbestos gasket, it's the tiles and brake dust that were the main hazard in Life. That gasket might outlast the restoration if put in properly, and will not hurt anyone.
Regarding the battery, I put two 12V car batteries in parallel in mine, (just stronger 12V) only need one, and I never open the box for display.
I can rotate batteries around different vehicles placing the freshly replaced but serviceable one in the Command Car just before parade events to ensure she's ready. If you have priced those large tractor/truck batteries, it's a lot to pay for 1100 Amps when a good standard size can hit 900 in a smaller package. Especially when you figure the lifespan of the larger battery is the same as the smaller lower cost model of about 7 years, it can add up costs.
A flip type metal cutoff switch fits nicely right inside the cab by the passenger Right foot area with the guts inside the battery box and switch down by the seat. Makes it easy to kill power as you depart the vehicle or get in too and no one looks for it all the way over there. WAW
I had a similar save from the farm, everyone looked at me like I was crazy to rescue a piece of junk.
Only issue I ever had with the Zenith was the acc. pump locked up due to Ethanol in her sitting while I was away to Afghanistan. She's runs well with zero adjustments for the past 30 years. I know a lot of folks go with the Carters, I think they were correct for later years, but my 42's Zenith (not original to the girl) seems to have been made on a good work day at the factory.
Great Job there!
V/R W Winget
Edit:
Nothing wrong with using an asbestos gasket, it's the tiles and brake dust that were the main hazard in Life. That gasket might outlast the restoration if put in properly, and will not hurt anyone.
Regarding the battery, I put two 12V car batteries in parallel in mine, (just stronger 12V) only need one, and I never open the box for display.
I can rotate batteries around different vehicles placing the freshly replaced but serviceable one in the Command Car just before parade events to ensure she's ready. If you have priced those large tractor/truck batteries, it's a lot to pay for 1100 Amps when a good standard size can hit 900 in a smaller package. Especially when you figure the lifespan of the larger battery is the same as the smaller lower cost model of about 7 years, it can add up costs.
A flip type metal cutoff switch fits nicely right inside the cab by the passenger Right foot area with the guts inside the battery box and switch down by the seat. Makes it easy to kill power as you depart the vehicle or get in too and no one looks for it all the way over there. WAW
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
A good quality high capacity 12 volt (modern) battery can be found to fit the 6 volt tray can they not? I think I've even seen faux 6V tops that get installed over the battery to give an original appearance.
Im going with a single modern battery in the battery box of my CC. Not loading that 100 pound plus original monster. I think I can source an ultima with more capacity than the original.
Im going with a single modern battery in the battery box of my CC. Not loading that 100 pound plus original monster. I think I can source an ultima with more capacity than the original.
52 M38 2X, '52 M37, '44 WC51, '42 WC 56/57, '50 CJ-V35(U), '42 GPW, '44 M3A1 Scout Car, 2010 M-Gator
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
I am going to use a modern 12 volt battery. ideally mounting it in an original looking large battery tray. I am confident that it will fit.
I guess that I am now looking for an original late model 12 volt battery tray for the WC. It doesn't have to be perfect, enough so that I can copy it.
Does anyone out there have a spare?
I am also chasing some photos of the said battery tray and the cables.
What diameter cable is used? I need the outside diameter and the colour of the cloth braid. I will have new cables made and if they are good enough, I will make several sets.
I guess that I am now looking for an original late model 12 volt battery tray for the WC. It doesn't have to be perfect, enough so that I can copy it.
Does anyone out there have a spare?
I am also chasing some photos of the said battery tray and the cables.
What diameter cable is used? I need the outside diameter and the colour of the cloth braid. I will have new cables made and if they are good enough, I will make several sets.
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Re: Aug '44 WC52 - 6 or 12 Volts
Hi all,
I am still chasing information on the 12 volt weapons carrier battery cables and battery tray.
I would also like a photo or details of where the cables go through the floor of the compartment. It looks like my cargo body is an early one, but has mounting holes for the box on the rear wall.
cheers
I am still chasing information on the 12 volt weapons carrier battery cables and battery tray.
I would also like a photo or details of where the cables go through the floor of the compartment. It looks like my cargo body is an early one, but has mounting holes for the box on the rear wall.
cheers
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