1945 Willys MB Restoration Project

[70th Division]

Hello,

Since I restored the fenders, and found zero tinning on them, I hope that the late MB's didn't have any fender tinning ?
Does anyone know if that is the case ?

I did find tinning on the grill,
and also on the hood, and motor mounts.

I haven't seen any others locations yet, but will need to study that subject.

Will check a few other 45 MBs to see what if anything is there.

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

I don't know about differences between Willys and Ford, but I do know there's differences between early and late tinning. There's much less (none?) on the later bodies that used tooth washers to make ground contacts.

[70th Division]

I don't know about differences between Willys and Ford, but I do know there's differences between early and late tinning. There's much less (none?) on the later bodies that used tooth washers to make ground contacts.

Hello Jeff,

That is good to hear !!
This late MB had none on the fenders, and still had the original wire clips on it.

I can see traces of tinning on the hood, but not much, and nothing like the Ford tinning !!
When I glass blast it, I will get a good picture of the tinning still there.

It is going to be fun getting all the correct bolts and toothed washers tracked down for reassembly.

It can be done .


Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Yes, it can be done, but it requires a lot of deep research.



and, speaking of tinning, here's a recent update on tinning on a type I suppression script GPW viewtopic.php?f=4&t=328986
I only mention this to demonstrate another area where the later jeeps moved away from the somewhat time consuming and labor intensive (on a production line) tinning process.

[70th Division]

Yes, it can be done, but it requires a lot of deep research.



and, speaking of tinning, here's a recent update on tinning on a type I suppression script GPW viewtopic.php?f=4&t=328986
I only mention this to demonstrate another area where the later jeeps moved away from the somewhat time consuming and labor intensive (on a production line) tinning process.

Thanks for the ever improving link on early GPW tinning knowledge, I will be using it !!!
It certainly will be another task to master, especially when I start on 2 of my Ford script jeeps side by side in the future !
How is that for the power of positive thinking ?

Best Regards,
Ray

[Tuareg]

Thanks very much for the link and the info.

What about tinning on MB?

I was thinking in that a few days ago, there are a few earth points on MB frame.

[JAB]

I think that the tinning is the same based more on the date of production than on brand and is basically broken down by type I suppression and type II. The type II supression has very little (none?) tinning as it uses the toothed washers to make the electrcal connections. There are minor variations though within each catagory. I think the later vehicles with type II supression had a few ground straps deleted toward the end of production.

[70th Division]

Thanks very much for the link and the info.

What about tinning on MB?

I was thinking in that a few days ago, there are a few earth points on MB frame.

And you have type 1 on your jeep, based on how early it is, and will take an under dash radio filterette.
I hope you like soldering .

I am thinking it will be very similar to type 1 on the GPW .


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

I removed all the hood hardware, without breaking any original bolts.
I will get the repairs done and get the hood blasted in my spare time.

It is going to be great to restore this long forgotten hood, that held up well in the elements, unlike the rest of the jeep it was on when rescued.

I uncovered some nice olive drab still on the hood.

To me that looks like the late war semi gloss olive drab paint.

Best Regards,
Ray

[conrod6]

Do you guys have solder paste in the US ? Real easy to use to tin steel. We use it a lot over here for lead loading vintage car bodies.

regards Barrie

edit: had a quick look at Eastwoods website and they market 'tinning butter' which I reckon is similar to UK solder paste. Just paint on with a paintbrush onto clean metal , heat with a torch and wipe with a wet rag - thats it.

[Tuareg]

Hello,

I removed all the hood hardware, without breaking any original bolts.
I will get the repairs done and get the hood blasted in my spare time.

It is going to be great to restore this long forgotten hood, that held up well in the elements, unlike the rest of the jeep it was on when rescued.

Resized_20230303_180349.jpeg
Resized_20230303_180359.jpeg

I uncovered some nice olive drab still on the hood.

To me that looks like the late war semi gloss olive drab paint.

Best Regards,
Ray

No breaking an original bolt is a very good new!!

Is there any possibility to find hood number ?

[70th Division]

Do you guys have solder paste in the US ? Real easy to use to tin steel. We use it a lot over here for lead loading vintage car bodies.

regards Barrie

edit: had a quick look at Eastwoods website and they market 'tinning butter' which I reckon is similar to UK solder paste. Just paint on with a paintbrush onto clean metal , heat with a torch and wipe with a wet rag - thats it.

Hello Barrie,

That is interesting, I haven't used that before, just flux, solder and a small torch.

That sounds like an easier solution.
I will look into it ,
thanks for that idea !!!

Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

No breaking an original bolt is a very good new!!

Is there any possibility to find hood number ?

Hello,

I will try to see if the original number is there, but I don't think so, there may be tracings of it, but the paint is peeling off on the sides.

Hope it is there !

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Do you guys have solder paste in the US ? Real easy to use to tin steel. We use it a lot over here for lead loading vintage car bodies.

regards Barrie

edit: had a quick look at Eastwoods website and they market 'tinning butter' which I reckon is similar to UK solder paste. Just paint on with a paintbrush onto clean metal , heat with a torch and wipe with a wet rag - thats it.

One of several brands we have here.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rectorseal- ... gJza_D_BwE

[conrod6]

Hello Jeff , I'm not sure if your solder paste is the same as ours - our solder paste has lead particles in the flux, no solder need be added. Once heated and wiped with a damp rag the surface is bright tinned metal.

regards Barrie