1945 Willys MB Restoration Project

[70th Division]

Ray,
Do you have any idea what those numbers are stamped into the frame? I found some on GPW-37718 and was hoping they were the USA registration numbers, but they were all wrong for that. They were stamped so lightly I couldn't determine what digits were actually stamped there. They were on the side of the frame rail under about where your feet would be (I don't remember passenger side or drivers side).
IMG_0369.jpg

Hello Jeff,

Yes , the numbers are the State of Oregon assigned vin number for the jeep, that matches the title that I got with it.
But I will get it corrected in Florida to the correct MB serial number.

Wow, those numbers you have look like the USA numbers !
Very nice !

I found on my 43 MB, that the USA number is stenciled behind where the ax mounts.
There is also an ordnance unit number stenciled behind the shovel head.

Believe it or not, there is a high stenciled division number on the upper left rear panel, near the top.
It looks like it may be the 1st Infantry Division.
I started looking for 1st Infantry Division marked jeeps, as that is a highly unusual place to mark the jeep.

Well, I found the same exact markings on Blondie, a 1st Division jeep heading to Normandy on June 6.
It is a color picture, and the markings I found match the same pattern and style, exactly !

That will be a future restoration, maybe it came back from Europe after the War.
2 of the jeeps in my barn returned from Europe, maybe this makes 3


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

While getting rid of that ugly frame bend, here is another BIG UGLY often found on WW2 jeeps !!

I am looking forward to getting rid of these hideous looking lock out hubs !!!!!

They make WW2 jeeps look ridiculous, any way you look at it.

It will be a celebration day to dump these, while rebuilding the axles !!!


Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Interesting story!

Don't dump the hubs. They're highly collectable on the Old Willys and CJ2A forums. I agree that they don't belong on an MB/GPW restoration, but I know some guys use them for parades. Rather than remove the pill from the transfer case to use low range 2WD they just put the hubs in the free position and use low range to go at the slow parade speeds.

[70th Division]

Interesting story!

Don't dump the hubs. They're highly collectable on the Old Willys and CJ2A forums. I agree that they don't belong on an MB/GPW restoration, but I know some guys use them for parades. Rather than remove the pill from the transfer case to use low range 2WD they just put the hubs in the free position and use low range to go at the slow parade speeds.

Hello Jeff,

I won't toss them as I know some people like them, and they were an add on option for many post war jeeps.
But I will never use them on any WW2 jeep !
Looking forward to their removal


Ray

[JAB]

I just hope those aren’t the kind that require sawing off the threaded ends of the axle stub shaft.

[70th Division]

I just hope those aren’t the kind that require sawing off the threaded ends of the axle stub shaft.

Well, I will find that out once I remove them !!

If they are, people would be nuts to use them on a future jeep.

I am interested to find out what type of axles are it there, and if they need replacing, if I could just use new Rzeppas in there ?



Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

Here is a little info on the December 44 to through 1945 deep mud exhaust systems on the Willys MB.
From what I have discovered online, Willys made the first move to them while Ford made the switch late in 1945.

(The Ford frames also had some differences at the rear as well, as GPWs don't have the tow hitch A frame reinforcing beam between the frame rails, behind the machine gun cross member, Ford added a large bracket to the side rail to mount the exhaust pipe, where Willys mounted it to the existing A frame cross beam.) ( no wonder GPW frames have so many cracks appear on them, with no cross beam like Willys !)
https://www.1943mb.com/article/527/G503 ... t-1945-gpw
https://fordgpw.wordpress.com/2018/11/2 ... d-exhaust/
viewtopic.php?t=139549


The Willys frame stayed pretty much the same, with standard late improvements.
viewtopic.php?t=107724
The Willys frame mounting route for the deep mud exhaust system.

All very interesting !!

Here is what I have found on this MB :

Here we can see the different type bracket on the transmission cross member, note the angle over top, where a muffler pipe bracket attaches.

A closer look at that bracket, that still holds the brake pedal return spring, but now also holds the muffler pipe.

This hole on the machine gun mount cross member also holds a pipe bracket.

I even found one of the original pipe brackets on the pipes I cut off the jeep !

The A frame cross member also has 2 holes in it, the one on the right holds another pipe bracket, I don't know what the left hole was used for ?
On this jeep there is a muffler band bolted on that second hole.

Here we can see the factory L bracket still attached to the frame.

A muffler band wraps around the deep mud muffler, and straps right around this L bracket, securing the deep mud muffler, with the short angled tail pipe aiming downward, when installed.

Note the Willys EC bolt head holding it in position.

Another item found is what I think may be the original oval wrap around bracket that mounts to the L bracket, and it was relocated to the A frame cross member to hold a big round cj2a type muffler that I removed.
Note, the band was around the Cj2a muffler but didn't go all the way around and had some mechanics wire holding it together !

Nice, I think it is another original part discovered to the deep mud exhaust system !!

Also of interest to note is that all 1945 MB bodies, still have all the side mount exhaust pipe muffler system mounting hardware on them !!
So a side mount muffler can be used as well, but at this point in production a move to the rear mount system was implemented by Willys Overland.

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Details, details, details. It makes all the difference. I notice that is has an original EC bolt too.

[70th Division]

Details, details, details. It makes all the difference. I notice that is has an original EC bolt too.

Hello Jeff,

Yes the details are very interesting, and they illustrate changes and improvements in late production versions of jeeps.
This jeep is interesting as it has the new exhaust style, but still has the fuel filter mounted on the fire wall, and did not have the vacuum operated windshield wipers yet, and no hole is the corner of the cowl for a vacuum line to go through, like later MB production eventually received during production.

This also means that the hood was the standard late hood with the grease gun mounted to its side, and a lube chart installed,
but ..... the hood block locations had not been moved yet to accommodate the new design vacuum operated windshield wipers.
So there was an even later version of the late hood .
I like to document as much as possible here on the G, for future MB restorers to follow during their restorations.

The good news is that the deep mud exhaust systems are available, even nos, with the mufflers, and pipes, as well as most brackets.
I think the L bracket may not yet be available, but I am happy I have one on this jeep !!

Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

I have been working on the driver's side fender, welding a new tab on the bottom bracket.

This new piece went on well !

Also filling in rogue drill holes.

The hat channel patches are welded in as well. I welded the inside of the patch as well for extra durability, and cleaned them up and added primer and paint inside as well to help prevent future rust.

It all went well, and the fender is looking much better.

I also welded a few routine cracks, and now they are rock solid .

Once all done, I will grind back the welds to blend them in, so they won't be seen after painting.


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

Keeping at it today,
the rear crossmember that was all twisted up, then straightened, still needed some fine hammering to get the damaged areas into compliance and nice and straight.
After I got it all flat and aligned, I was able to weld up the damage.
The left bumperette looks like it was used as a tow hook at one time, and was pulled off, damaging the bolt holes, and tearing the steel.

I had to weld a little piece to secure it, then hammer, then weld, then hammer, etc.

The welding came out nice, and I had to weld up some substantial cracks.

There also were a few rogue holes drilled into the top of the frame rail next to the generator splash shield.
I blasted them clean, and welded those holes up as well.


Inch by inch the frame has been repaired !!

The welds need to be ground down, but I think almost all the frame damage has been repaired.

The last frame damage area is the driver's side rear spring shackle bracket.
What they did to that, I can't figure out, but it will have to be repaired.
Either replaced, or a piece of a new one needs to be welded in as a repair section.
I will post a picture of the issue but
it gets dark early now, so that will have to wait for the daylight.


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

Here are some pictures of the drivers side rear spring shackle.
How in the world does it get this sort of damage ??

The rivets are behind this frame reinforcement .
I can cut the this piece along the top, and bend it down,to gain access, and then reweld.

Does anyone have any tips on repairing or replacing the hanger ?

I have a nice new correct bracket hanger from Ron.

How have the G members replaced the hangers ?
Do you bolt them on and weld up the nut ?
The weld along the side of the hanger as well ?

Hot rivet ?
My riveting skills are not that good at all !

Maybe cut the hanger off halfway, and cut the new one halfway, and weld the new half to the old half ?

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

I definitely wouldn’t cut and weld each half. Since they’re welded On anyway I would use the fake rivets to locate it and then duplicate the factory welds with a 7018 stick weld.

[70th Division]

I definitely wouldn’t cut and weld each half. Since they’re welded On anyway I would use the fake rivets to locate it and then duplicate the factory welds with a 7018 stick weld.

Great !!

Thanks Jeff,

I will remove the broken one, and install the new hanger, and get it welded on to the rail reinforcing plate,
as that is between the hanger and the rail on this late jeep.

I just installed the new pinion yokes on the GPW project , so will post that update.
Also have a new set of yokes for this jeep !

Best Regards,
Ray

[Stanles]

Hello Ray,

you're doing a great job.
I look forward to continuing the renovation !!!
You must be putting in a lot of time.

Regards Standa