1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Thanks Jeff !!!
I am back at it this morning
I hope to get some penetrating welds going on suspect areas of cracks.
I can't figure out how these occurred, at this location, and the rear crossmember attached to the frame rails. A lot of damage, but the body has zero !!
The slat body that was put on it, in March of 1945 !!
Whatever whacked it was aligned with the front bumper, and rear crossmember, below the rear tub panel !
It just is a mystery
I will also grind back some small touch up weld blobs on my M38A1 battery compartment as well.
I am getting that jeep back to running condition as I am working on the GPW.
It is in outstanding original shape with no rust damage.
Best Regards,
Ray
Thanks Jeff !!!
I am back at it this morning
I hope to get some penetrating welds going on suspect areas of cracks.
I can't figure out how these occurred, at this location, and the rear crossmember attached to the frame rails. A lot of damage, but the body has zero !!
The slat body that was put on it, in March of 1945 !!
Whatever whacked it was aligned with the front bumper, and rear crossmember, below the rear tub panel !
It just is a mystery
I will also grind back some small touch up weld blobs on my M38A1 battery compartment as well.
I am getting that jeep back to running condition as I am working on the GPW.
It is in outstanding original shape with no rust damage.
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Ford chassis were notorious for cracking.
Whether it was poor quality steel, or poor design (Willys chassis are open railed, but boxed at the front bumper and at the rear) who knows. The Midland Steel Co, makers of the Willys chassis went for reinforcement the top and bottom of the side rails with spot welded strips, but left the actual rails free to flex under strain, but boxed the ends to prevent flexing at the gussets.
Many years ago, an old timer who was in the Aussie army (RAEME), told me they were always welding up cracks in the Fords. During full rebuilds, they were instructed to add boxing at the front gusset area and rear spring hangers.
After the war, in civvy life, new cracks were often left, or repaired horribly by Bubbas.
Bazza
.
Bazza
Whether it was poor quality steel, or poor design (Willys chassis are open railed, but boxed at the front bumper and at the rear) who knows. The Midland Steel Co, makers of the Willys chassis went for reinforcement the top and bottom of the side rails with spot welded strips, but left the actual rails free to flex under strain, but boxed the ends to prevent flexing at the gussets.
Many years ago, an old timer who was in the Aussie army (RAEME), told me they were always welding up cracks in the Fords. During full rebuilds, they were instructed to add boxing at the front gusset area and rear spring hangers.
After the war, in civvy life, new cracks were often left, or repaired horribly by Bubbas.
Bazza
.
Bazza
"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt"..Bertrand Russell
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Thanks Bazza !
I appreciate that information on how Ford frames were dealt with in your great country !!
I am surprised at the cracks, when the body had no damages.
I just hope that my welding will safely repair the issues.
I think I will be leaving a well attached small rectangular plate on the bottom of the frame rail, adjacent to the spring hanger.
I can grind the edges back to blend it in, but can add some additional welding to the inside edge of the plate.
I think that will be a good compromise to keep it secured for the future.
I wouldn't think that these patches were added by a rebuild program, but maybe they were ?
This jeep was rebuilt in March of 1945 by Moore Equipment Company, Modesto Division, in California during the War.
I have been making progress and will post some pics tomorrow of the welding and repair of suspect areas.
I think the repairs will hold up and be secure !!
Best Regards,
Ray
Thanks Bazza !
I appreciate that information on how Ford frames were dealt with in your great country !!
I am surprised at the cracks, when the body had no damages.
I just hope that my welding will safely repair the issues.
I think I will be leaving a well attached small rectangular plate on the bottom of the frame rail, adjacent to the spring hanger.
I can grind the edges back to blend it in, but can add some additional welding to the inside edge of the plate.
I think that will be a good compromise to keep it secured for the future.
I wouldn't think that these patches were added by a rebuild program, but maybe they were ?
This jeep was rebuilt in March of 1945 by Moore Equipment Company, Modesto Division, in California during the War.
I have been making progress and will post some pics tomorrow of the welding and repair of suspect areas.
I think the repairs will hold up and be secure !!
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
I had my frame blasted prior to repairing it. I was able to see a couple of small cracks that I would never have noticed otherwise. Just a thought. You're doing great work Ray and I enjoy following your posts.
Adam Smith
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Thanks Adam !!
The way things are situated
the entire frame will be blasted, so if I find more cracks then I will repair them.
I don't see any more currently outside of the areas of concern.
Being summer in Florida ....
the heat is ridiculous and it rains almost everyday this summer.
If I blast it, it likely will be rained on ,
so will wait to a dry spell hopefully next month.
I also have to blast the body as well.
Currently my 2 blasters are awaiting repair parts, the vacuum blaster was great, but being a chinese made unit, of course it already needs repair parts.
I have been waiting , but will call the vendor tomorrow to find out what happened to the replacement nozzle.
I have ordered a new blasting nozzle for my traditional sandblaster, as I can not find new ceramic tips anymore.
Once that gets here I will blast clean the areas I am working on before welding them up, so I can see the cracks better. It looks like they were welded up before the plates went on top of them.
I also want to try the power washer blasting process on certain items to see if I can dry them off and prime .
I do love working on the jeep !!
I can also see progress in getting things done.
The frame has to be done now, before I can blast the body, so I can put the body on the frame to store inside out of the rain .
But I can see assembly starting soon, which includes the engine getting mounted.
I am thinking the engine's issue is that it needs a copper sleeve tapped into the distributor shaft tunnel to stop coolant from getting into the oil.
That should be any easy fix, I just hope that is the issue !!
Best Regards,
Ray
Thanks Adam !!
The way things are situated
the entire frame will be blasted, so if I find more cracks then I will repair them.
I don't see any more currently outside of the areas of concern.
Being summer in Florida ....
the heat is ridiculous and it rains almost everyday this summer.
If I blast it, it likely will be rained on ,
so will wait to a dry spell hopefully next month.
I also have to blast the body as well.
Currently my 2 blasters are awaiting repair parts, the vacuum blaster was great, but being a chinese made unit, of course it already needs repair parts.
I have been waiting , but will call the vendor tomorrow to find out what happened to the replacement nozzle.
I have ordered a new blasting nozzle for my traditional sandblaster, as I can not find new ceramic tips anymore.
Once that gets here I will blast clean the areas I am working on before welding them up, so I can see the cracks better. It looks like they were welded up before the plates went on top of them.
I also want to try the power washer blasting process on certain items to see if I can dry them off and prime .
I do love working on the jeep !!
I can also see progress in getting things done.
The frame has to be done now, before I can blast the body, so I can put the body on the frame to store inside out of the rain .
But I can see assembly starting soon, which includes the engine getting mounted.
I am thinking the engine's issue is that it needs a copper sleeve tapped into the distributor shaft tunnel to stop coolant from getting into the oil.
That should be any easy fix, I just hope that is the issue !!
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Ok I managed to get the crack area welded on the frame by the steering box.
I think it went well, I will clean it up and post some pictures.
The exterior crack had been welded years ago, so I welded it up a little better, after cleaning it up.
I also welded up any possible items like the wear indentations around the bolt holes.
The spring hanger had a couple of short welds on each side, from the factory . I added addition weld to them on both sides to give more strength, welding in any open joints.
I want to strengthen it the best I can, so that will be a good effort.
The inside inner rail crack was never welded up.
I ground out a tracing on the crack and welded it up as well.
I also welded along the top and bottom of the inner frame rail, where it contacts the outer rail.
I figure that would give it even greater future stability and rigidity above and below this area of repair. I will add a little more welding in the morning.
Here is what the crack on the inner rail looked like : I guess it is like boxing the frame around the entire crack area.
The "original" repairs worked all these years and were only done on the outside of the frame rail, and held up fine all these years.
So this repair should double strengthen the damaged area.
I will dress these welds up, but will basically leave them solid on the inside if the rail, was smoothed down somewhat. You can also see where I beefed up the welds along the spring hanger to frame joint. This will give a great extra level of attachment.
These weld repairs are very solid, and should be reliable for the future.
I still have some weld repairs to make at the lower front edge of the spring hanger, facing the bumper and will add a couple beads to supplement the 1 vertical weld pictured. That was the only crack on the inner rail. I will also add weld bead to continue the strengthening along the lower inner frame rail joint with the outer frame rail, about another 6 inches towards the front, like the upper weld.
I will get that done, and post some additional pictures.
The main idea is to reinforce the frame where it was damaged, back to a original strength. I think this has been, and is being accomplished.
The outer rail , those welds will be ground down and blended in to the rail. I think it will all look good when complete, and will certainly be a solid repair. From what I can figure, these frames get damaged if the jeep runs into a rock, tree, another bumper, etc.
They will crack in these same general areas when a force is applied to the end of the rail.
The energy goes into the frame an comes out via stress cracks !!!
The jeep frame doesn't crack from normal use in general.
I am thinking if it gets hit, it will be damaged, not just where it made contact, but maybe due to steel type, or method of construction from Ford as noted by Bazza, in several areas where the energy travels.
So I also think that when repaired with solid efforts, the frame should function fine, and not crack just through normal use.
Normal use didn't create the cracks along the front rail, or at the ends of the rear of the rails.
Also, once it is all welded and blasted clean, I will add some jb weld to the outer rail, to fill in the pits and grinder markings and then sand clean.
The repair won't be visible from the exterior frame view.
This will work
An inch at a time, and she is getting there !!
Best Regards,
Ray
Ok I managed to get the crack area welded on the frame by the steering box.
I think it went well, I will clean it up and post some pictures.
The exterior crack had been welded years ago, so I welded it up a little better, after cleaning it up.
I also welded up any possible items like the wear indentations around the bolt holes.
The spring hanger had a couple of short welds on each side, from the factory . I added addition weld to them on both sides to give more strength, welding in any open joints.
I want to strengthen it the best I can, so that will be a good effort.
The inside inner rail crack was never welded up.
I ground out a tracing on the crack and welded it up as well.
I also welded along the top and bottom of the inner frame rail, where it contacts the outer rail.
I figure that would give it even greater future stability and rigidity above and below this area of repair. I will add a little more welding in the morning.
Here is what the crack on the inner rail looked like : I guess it is like boxing the frame around the entire crack area.
The "original" repairs worked all these years and were only done on the outside of the frame rail, and held up fine all these years.
So this repair should double strengthen the damaged area.
I will dress these welds up, but will basically leave them solid on the inside if the rail, was smoothed down somewhat. You can also see where I beefed up the welds along the spring hanger to frame joint. This will give a great extra level of attachment.
These weld repairs are very solid, and should be reliable for the future.
I still have some weld repairs to make at the lower front edge of the spring hanger, facing the bumper and will add a couple beads to supplement the 1 vertical weld pictured. That was the only crack on the inner rail. I will also add weld bead to continue the strengthening along the lower inner frame rail joint with the outer frame rail, about another 6 inches towards the front, like the upper weld.
I will get that done, and post some additional pictures.
The main idea is to reinforce the frame where it was damaged, back to a original strength. I think this has been, and is being accomplished.
The outer rail , those welds will be ground down and blended in to the rail. I think it will all look good when complete, and will certainly be a solid repair. From what I can figure, these frames get damaged if the jeep runs into a rock, tree, another bumper, etc.
They will crack in these same general areas when a force is applied to the end of the rail.
The energy goes into the frame an comes out via stress cracks !!!
The jeep frame doesn't crack from normal use in general.
I am thinking if it gets hit, it will be damaged, not just where it made contact, but maybe due to steel type, or method of construction from Ford as noted by Bazza, in several areas where the energy travels.
So I also think that when repaired with solid efforts, the frame should function fine, and not crack just through normal use.
Normal use didn't create the cracks along the front rail, or at the ends of the rear of the rails.
Also, once it is all welded and blasted clean, I will add some jb weld to the outer rail, to fill in the pits and grinder markings and then sand clean.
The repair won't be visible from the exterior frame view.
This will work
An inch at a time, and she is getting there !!
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Here is another small part that I am restoring to add to the pile of restored parts.
This is an NOS Warner trailer plug for the jeep's rear panel.
It has a powder like "paint" that came right off with very light sanding. Steel wool would have removed it.
It is in perfect shape, and will make a nice addition to the restoration.
But ... there is a question on this !!
The cover is spot welded to the housing, it isn't separate so a rubber seal can be added, or the external ring.
Is this a very late model plug ??
Is it for a different vehicle ?
It has the Warner name and number
on it.
The attached door hinge says Warner 11935B , stamped into it.
So, maybe no rubber dust seal, and a retaining ring on the inside of rear panel ??
Here are some pictures :
Here are the marked connections under the cap on the end of the plug. The inside of the cap : I was thinking it would be great to paint this, but looking at G503 TV, nope, it stays a bare cadmium plated finish.
Also that will function as part of the grounding system when the flange is bolted to the body.
I have a restored cover for this plug, that will protect it, inside the tool box.
The outside plug flip up door, will get painted, and I will order the rubber seal, and exterior retaining ring, from Ron, and the 4 bolts to attach it.
This as I mentioned above is an outstanding original part !!
Update :
I sent pics to Ron, and has a new Warner marked door, and the rubber gaskets, etc.
I can remove this one , replace it, or repair it, and be all set.
Thanks Ron !!
I wonder what this actually goes to ?
If anyone knows, let me know the answer.
Best Regards,
Ray
Here is another small part that I am restoring to add to the pile of restored parts.
This is an NOS Warner trailer plug for the jeep's rear panel.
It has a powder like "paint" that came right off with very light sanding. Steel wool would have removed it.
It is in perfect shape, and will make a nice addition to the restoration.
But ... there is a question on this !!
The cover is spot welded to the housing, it isn't separate so a rubber seal can be added, or the external ring.
Is this a very late model plug ??
Is it for a different vehicle ?
It has the Warner name and number
on it.
The attached door hinge says Warner 11935B , stamped into it.
So, maybe no rubber dust seal, and a retaining ring on the inside of rear panel ??
Here are some pictures :
Here are the marked connections under the cap on the end of the plug. The inside of the cap : I was thinking it would be great to paint this, but looking at G503 TV, nope, it stays a bare cadmium plated finish.
Also that will function as part of the grounding system when the flange is bolted to the body.
I have a restored cover for this plug, that will protect it, inside the tool box.
The outside plug flip up door, will get painted, and I will order the rubber seal, and exterior retaining ring, from Ron, and the 4 bolts to attach it.
This as I mentioned above is an outstanding original part !!
Update :
I sent pics to Ron, and has a new Warner marked door, and the rubber gaskets, etc.
I can remove this one , replace it, or repair it, and be all set.
Thanks Ron !!
I wonder what this actually goes to ?
If anyone knows, let me know the answer.
Best Regards,
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Wed Aug 25, 2021 4:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
I found an NOS Warner cover that I got for my halftrack, which was missing the cover.
This has the exact same
Warner 11935B stamped onto the hinge.
So, I wonder if the plug maybe a very late 1945 revised plug ?
Eliminating the rubber dust insert piece ?
I think it must be for something along those lines.
Ok,
I made a decision, I will use this plug as designed.
This design eliminated the steel retaining ring, and would have used a gasket with less rubber.
So, I will order the gasket from Ron, and trim it to fit the flange, where it will make contact with the rear exterior panel. All the bolts and star washers will ground the plug just like the earlier model.
If Ron has the bolts I will order them as well.
The dust seal is likely a redundant item, as this is dust proof when closed, and when in use the plug will fit in and fill the entire socket.
Maybe that is why this late version was made, saving raw materials as well ?
My 1942 CCKW plug is just like the Jeep one, with the rubber seal, as well as other plugs on my jeeps.
I haven't looked at the Dodge yet
So I won't have to start over on the trailer plug !!!
I best go back and weld on the frame now !!
Best Regards,
Ray
I found an NOS Warner cover that I got for my halftrack, which was missing the cover.
This has the exact same
Warner 11935B stamped onto the hinge.
So, I wonder if the plug maybe a very late 1945 revised plug ?
Eliminating the rubber dust insert piece ?
I think it must be for something along those lines.
Ok,
I made a decision, I will use this plug as designed.
This design eliminated the steel retaining ring, and would have used a gasket with less rubber.
So, I will order the gasket from Ron, and trim it to fit the flange, where it will make contact with the rear exterior panel. All the bolts and star washers will ground the plug just like the earlier model.
If Ron has the bolts I will order them as well.
The dust seal is likely a redundant item, as this is dust proof when closed, and when in use the plug will fit in and fill the entire socket.
Maybe that is why this late version was made, saving raw materials as well ?
My 1942 CCKW plug is just like the Jeep one, with the rubber seal, as well as other plugs on my jeeps.
I haven't looked at the Dodge yet
So I won't have to start over on the trailer plug !!!
I best go back and weld on the frame now !!
Best Regards,
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Wed Aug 25, 2021 7:44 pm, edited 7 times in total.
- JAB
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
70th Division wrote: โWed Aug 25, 2021 2:52 pm...
So back to having to start over on the trailer plug !!!
I best go back and weld on the frame now !!...
Bouncing around from little parts (trailer plug) to big parts (the frame) to delicate parts (gauges) to other parts (hardware) is what keeps me getting bored or overwhelmed.
-Jeff
GR8GPN2U!!!
GR8GPN2U!!!
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Absolutely Jeff !!!!
We both would highly recommend that angle of attack !
Things get done !
Don't ever let a tough spot, sink your dreams and your project!
I enjoy it all, and had this trailer plug in a box, and it has been in the barn for a couple months , so I figured I better get it restored !!
I will work on the frame a little tonight, as I weld inside the barn.
Short welder plug
But changing up things is a good idea, and you keep making forward progress every day !!
I have added a few Dodge WC, CCKW, and M38A1 parts in the mix !
I am actively working on my 1953 M38A1 Jeep at the same time as this Ford restoration.
The M38A1 needs little things done, and some maintenance items but she will be running soon !!
I just got a perfect , original , 100 percent complete, windshield for her.
I will get some seat covers ordered from weebee soon for it !!
I have managed to get a full set of original springs for the seats, they will be so comfortable !
PS : I bought my "Tacklife" branded rotary tool on Ebay for $44.95.
It ฤบasted 2 months.
It appeared well built, but switch started going erratic, fast, super fast ,slow, then sputtered out completely.
I happened to pay $ 2.99 for a Square Trade insurance policy from All-State Insurance, as offered on Ebay.
Well , sick of wasting cash on Chinese tools, I did the online claim process, sent them a pic of my ebay order, etc., and Allstate settled the claim in 30 minutes !!
They are mailing me a check for the purchase price. They also said to keep the broken tool, they did not want it.
I would absolutely recommend to anyone buying items on eBay, to add on the little replacement insurance policy !!
They are awesome !!
I bought a mini fridge for my jeep barn loft, and bought the policy too.
Fortunately, it is working like a champion !!
Now I will be getting my money back
Allstate said at the beginning of the claim to contact the manufacturer as it was still under their warranty.
I did, no answer, and voice mail was full. I told them that in the chat session online, I am sure they discovered the same problem !
I will try a Milwaukee battery powered one now, to replace this one. Maybe they are available on ebay, and will if offered buy a policy on it too !!!
Update : I just bought a Milwaukee rotary tool to keep the jeep project rolling !!
For $7.99 I added a 2 year Allstate Insurance policy !!!
Best Regards,
Ray
Absolutely Jeff !!!!
We both would highly recommend that angle of attack !
Things get done !
Don't ever let a tough spot, sink your dreams and your project!
I enjoy it all, and had this trailer plug in a box, and it has been in the barn for a couple months , so I figured I better get it restored !!
I will work on the frame a little tonight, as I weld inside the barn.
Short welder plug
But changing up things is a good idea, and you keep making forward progress every day !!
I have added a few Dodge WC, CCKW, and M38A1 parts in the mix !
I am actively working on my 1953 M38A1 Jeep at the same time as this Ford restoration.
The M38A1 needs little things done, and some maintenance items but she will be running soon !!
I just got a perfect , original , 100 percent complete, windshield for her.
I will get some seat covers ordered from weebee soon for it !!
I have managed to get a full set of original springs for the seats, they will be so comfortable !
PS : I bought my "Tacklife" branded rotary tool on Ebay for $44.95.
It ฤบasted 2 months.
It appeared well built, but switch started going erratic, fast, super fast ,slow, then sputtered out completely.
I happened to pay $ 2.99 for a Square Trade insurance policy from All-State Insurance, as offered on Ebay.
Well , sick of wasting cash on Chinese tools, I did the online claim process, sent them a pic of my ebay order, etc., and Allstate settled the claim in 30 minutes !!
They are mailing me a check for the purchase price. They also said to keep the broken tool, they did not want it.
I would absolutely recommend to anyone buying items on eBay, to add on the little replacement insurance policy !!
They are awesome !!
I bought a mini fridge for my jeep barn loft, and bought the policy too.
Fortunately, it is working like a champion !!
Now I will be getting my money back
Allstate said at the beginning of the claim to contact the manufacturer as it was still under their warranty.
I did, no answer, and voice mail was full. I told them that in the chat session online, I am sure they discovered the same problem !
I will try a Milwaukee battery powered one now, to replace this one. Maybe they are available on ebay, and will if offered buy a policy on it too !!!
Update : I just bought a Milwaukee rotary tool to keep the jeep project rolling !!
For $7.99 I added a 2 year Allstate Insurance policy !!!
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Since my new rotary tool is on the way, time to get back on the frame repairs
Ok, I backed the frame into the barn, and will now start working on the issues as pictured here :
This should be interesting
I will repair the pintle hitch beam first.
It was damaged by whoever hacked a section away to fit a generic steel beam replacement crossmember, and that beam was welded to the frame.
No cracks, no impact damage.
I will cut a piece of metal to weld in and repair it to correct restored condition !!!
Best Regards ,
Ray
Since my new rotary tool is on the way, time to get back on the frame repairs
Ok, I backed the frame into the barn, and will now start working on the issues as pictured here :
This should be interesting
I will repair the pintle hitch beam first.
It was damaged by whoever hacked a section away to fit a generic steel beam replacement crossmember, and that beam was welded to the frame.
No cracks, no impact damage.
I will cut a piece of metal to weld in and repair it to correct restored condition !!!
Best Regards ,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
I have made a repair patch to weld in for the missing steel on this area of the center frame beam.
I used a section of an old crossmember that I picked up somewhere, as a piece of scrap.
I always knew that I would use pieces from it !!
It is the perfect matching gauge steel to repair this area.
Here are some pics of the patch, fitted in, and clamped, getting ready to weld it in and tackle this area.
It has fit in nicely, and once welded in place will be ground down and smoothed to a perfect finish
Best Regards,
Ray
I have made a repair patch to weld in for the missing steel on this area of the center frame beam.
I used a section of an old crossmember that I picked up somewhere, as a piece of scrap.
I always knew that I would use pieces from it !!
It is the perfect matching gauge steel to repair this area.
Here are some pics of the patch, fitted in, and clamped, getting ready to weld it in and tackle this area.
It has fit in nicely, and once welded in place will be ground down and smoothed to a perfect finish
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Ok, it is welded in and looks good.
I next ground the welds down , they had great penetration.
The hole has been filled
Here are some pics :
A little more filing of the bolt holes to make them round, and I will clean up the inside welds on the bottom of the patch once my new rotary tool gets here.
The inner re-enforcing plate for the tow hitch was there, and the patch worked perfect.
This frame area is rock solid again, and with the additional re-enforcing
plate that will be welded onto the outside of this beam and lower cross member, the pintle hitch will be a-ok to pull a Bantam trailer again.
She is coming together !!!!
Best Regards,
Ray
Ok, it is welded in and looks good.
I next ground the welds down , they had great penetration.
The hole has been filled
Here are some pics :
A little more filing of the bolt holes to make them round, and I will clean up the inside welds on the bottom of the patch once my new rotary tool gets here.
The inner re-enforcing plate for the tow hitch was there, and the patch worked perfect.
This frame area is rock solid again, and with the additional re-enforcing
plate that will be welded onto the outside of this beam and lower cross member, the pintle hitch will be a-ok to pull a Bantam trailer again.
She is coming together !!!!
Best Regards,
Ray
-
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5652
- Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:29 pm
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Ok,
Here is the next little repair.
The center frame section for the pintle hitch, had a couple notches cut out of it.
I made 2 small patches of the same material, and welded them in.
Here are some pics :
Another little section that has been repaired on the road to restoration
I will do some better grinding on these, once my new Milwaukee rotary tool arrives.
These are in tight and secure.
Once the frame is solo, I will add welds beads on the bottom, and grind back.
But right now I am getting all areas that need attention , repaired !!
Best Regards,
Ray
Here is the next little repair.
The center frame section for the pintle hitch, had a couple notches cut out of it.
I made 2 small patches of the same material, and welded them in.
Here are some pics :
Another little section that has been repaired on the road to restoration
I will do some better grinding on these, once my new Milwaukee rotary tool arrives.
These are in tight and secure.
Once the frame is solo, I will add welds beads on the bottom, and grind back.
But right now I am getting all areas that need attention , repaired !!
Best Regards,
Ray
-
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 5652
- Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:29 pm
- Location:
Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
I finally got my new Milwaukee
cordless rotary tool in service.
So today I finished up the final grinding on the front frame rail gusetts.
It went really well, and will be perfect when all blasted, primed, and painted.
Especially when compared to what I started with !!
The Milwaukee unit battery lasts about 20 minutes or 1 cutting disk.
Not a problem, as it recharges pretty quick, but I will get another battery to make life a little easier, so I can swap them out.
Here are some pics from tonight :
I will get to work on the rear rails tomorrow, and weld in the repair piece with the bracket to rivet the rear crossmember to when complete.
Best Regards,
Ray
I finally got my new Milwaukee
cordless rotary tool in service.
So today I finished up the final grinding on the front frame rail gusetts.
It went really well, and will be perfect when all blasted, primed, and painted.
Especially when compared to what I started with !!
The Milwaukee unit battery lasts about 20 minutes or 1 cutting disk.
Not a problem, as it recharges pretty quick, but I will get another battery to make life a little easier, so I can swap them out.
Here are some pics from tonight :
I will get to work on the rear rails tomorrow, and weld in the repair piece with the bracket to rivet the rear crossmember to when complete.
Best Regards,
Ray
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