1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
- JAB
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
That's not right. I wonder of your drag link is from another vehicle or jeep. How long is it?
-Jeff
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hi Jeff, it is a new reproduction, I measured it against the original and it’s the same length. The bell crank is a reproduction, the tie rods are original ford marked. Going to check the tie rod lengths in the morning to see if I have something out of adjustment there.
Adam Smith
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
- JAB
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Tomorrow morning I'll finally be back in the shop. I'll take a couple of pictures to compare.
-Jeff
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Thanks Adam,
I will get some pics .
Looking at your pics,
I am wondering if your sector shaft is centered in your steering box ?
Set with you wheels facing straight ahead, so there is equal turning left and right from the gear box.
I read somewhere on the G that if it isn't centered, it will only turn so far before running out of worm gear space.
I set my wheels straight ahead, and then slid the sector shaft into the worm gear, right in the middle.
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Sun Nov 27, 2022 9:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hi Ray, the shaft was set correctly. The issue is the drag link hitting the tie rod. With the drag link disconnected from the pitman arm but still connected to the bell crank I turn the wheels to the right by hand and the drag link makes contact with the tie rod before the hub hits the stop on the axle. I am going to check the adjustments on the tie rods in the morning
Adam Smith
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Raflad wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 8:08 pmHi Ray, the shaft was set correctly. The issue is the drag link hitting the tie rod. With the drag link disconnected from the pitman arm but still connected to the bell crank I turn the wheels to the right by hand and the drag link makes contact with the tie rod before the hub hits the stop on the axle. I am going to check the adjustments on the tie rods in the morning
Hello Adam,
I am certain there is a simple answer to this issue.
One being, check the drag link to be sure it is installed at the correct orientation, front to back.
The front end of the drag link, the shorter end to the front.
The rear of the drag link, at the pitman arm and steering box.
The shorter end goes to the front, and the longer end to the rear to the pitman arm.
The second could be to double check the sector shaft alignment, but if it is correct, then see number 1.
Here are some pictures of my steering system,, all looks very good..
When turned all the way to the right, contacting the factory stop limiter bolt, there is about a quarter inch clearance between the end if the drag link and the driver's side tie rod.
See above picture, with wheels turned all the way to the right, and making contact with the factory stop.
Best Regards,
Ray
- JAB
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
I just took a couple of pictures of mine,but they're identical to Ray's, so no real benifit in posting them. I don't even have the steering box installed yet, so there's nothing but the right-angle pivot to limit travel and no interferance. I wonder, if like Ray is wondering, if you've got the drag link installed backwards.
-Jeff
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello Jeff,JAB wrote: ↑Mon Nov 28, 2022 6:26 amI just took a couple of pictures of mine,but they're identical to Ray's, so no real benifit in posting them. I don't even have the steering box installed yet, so there's nothing but the right-angle pivot to limit travel and no interferance. I wonder, if like Ray is wondering, if you've got the drag link installed backwards.
I hope that is the issue, another could be the new bell crank, or pitman arm is the wrong shape or design, as there have been some issues like that reported.
Are you saying that Adam and I are a steering box ahead of you ?
Also Jeff, and Adam, and Barrie,
You have to check out new G member Don's, all original GPW jeep he just got, it is super impressive, and it even has those elusive big felt washers still on it, it looks like his jeep just came from a WW2 jeep sale !
viewtopic.php?f=144&t=332659
What a rare all original discovery !
matching numbers as well !
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hi Guys. Drag link is installed correctly. When I installed the tie rods I set the length to the TM specs, 24 1/4" for the right, 17 11/32" for the left. What I did this morning was lengthen the right side until I got the hub to hit the stop at a full right lock. I then shortened the left one to compensate for this. I now have full steering lock both ways and the drag link does not contact the tie rod. Possibly the only concern is I only have a little adjustment left on the left side tie rod if I need to shorten it a lot for tracking, it looks pretty good right now so hopefully I'll be good. Maybe one of my steering arms is bent, they look okay. Thoughts? Ray, I apologize for hijacking your thread, but appreciate yours and Jeff's help, thank you.
Adam Smith
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello Adam,Raflad wrote: ↑Mon Nov 28, 2022 8:41 amHi Guys. Drag link is installed correctly. When I installed the tie rods I set the length to the TM specs, 24 1/4" for the right, 17 11/32" for the left. What I did this morning was lengthen the right side until I got the hub to hit the stop at a full right lock. I then shortened the left one to compensate for this. I now have full steering lock both ways and the drag link does not contact the tie rod. Possibly the only concern is I only have a little adjustment left on the left side tie rod if I need to shorten it a lot for tracking, it looks pretty good right now so hopefully I'll be good. Maybe one of my steering arms is bent, they look okay. Thoughts? Ray, I apologize for hijacking your thread, but appreciate yours and Jeff's help, thank you.
That is great news !!
If you can post some close up pics of your drag link, pitman arm, and bell crank, and steering arms, that would be good to take a look at what you have there.
Remember any information added to this post is well appreciated by me, as it helps us all, and future G members when looking at the same issue on their jeeps.
I did a search on your issue and found others had the exact same issue, but strangely they never followed up with corrections that were made.
So lets get it all worked out here, for any possible issue we may see, and a correct solution.
The more G technical information we can post here, the better for everyone
When I installed the new tie rods, I screwed them in about all the way in the rods, and used never seize, and now I can turn the tie rod by hand to adjust the steering arms in or out.
I haven't yet tightened down the clamps on the tie rods, as I have not done the final alignment yet, but it looks real good just by looking at it
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Here is another little issue I found on my TRS, the castle nut when tightened down, goes past the hole for the cotter pin.
Now I have tried a couple different bolts, Ron sent me another one to try, which was great , thanks Ron !
I believe the issue is that over the years the main Torque Reaction spring end had worn down through movement. I haven't located a taller castle nut, but did find a hardened thick washer, that fits in tight on the bolt.
The castle nut now will tighten down, and I can put the cotter in the proper location in relation to the cotter pin hole.
All is aligned now.
I am putting in a cotter pin from the WW2 pin kit.
Also, how does everyone do their cotter pins ?
I did the top one like pictured, wrapped around the outside of the nut.
I did the tie rod ones like the government and industry illustrates, and put the cotter in and folder the pin over the end of the nut, and snipped the other one short and folder down the side of the nut.
And has anyone else had the same issue on their TRS with the spring worn down on the end ?
Best Regards,
Ray
Here is another little issue I found on my TRS, the castle nut when tightened down, goes past the hole for the cotter pin.
Now I have tried a couple different bolts, Ron sent me another one to try, which was great , thanks Ron !
I believe the issue is that over the years the main Torque Reaction spring end had worn down through movement. I haven't located a taller castle nut, but did find a hardened thick washer, that fits in tight on the bolt.
The castle nut now will tighten down, and I can put the cotter in the proper location in relation to the cotter pin hole.
All is aligned now.
I am putting in a cotter pin from the WW2 pin kit.
Also, how does everyone do their cotter pins ?
I did the top one like pictured, wrapped around the outside of the nut.
I did the tie rod ones like the government and industry illustrates, and put the cotter in and folder the pin over the end of the nut, and snipped the other one short and folder down the side of the nut.
And has anyone else had the same issue on their TRS with the spring worn down on the end ?
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
I did the same thing Ray, added a washer. As for cotter pins, I think both methods are acceptable, I think it looks neater bending the leg over the end of the bolt. I used to be an aircraft mechanic in the RAF and we mostly wrapped the legs around the nut. When the leg was bent over the bolt we called it “the American way”
Adam Smith
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
[nturl][/nturl]
Very good Adam , those look nice and clean !
I think I will do mine that way as well.
I just replaced the non working brake light pressure switch with a new JMP unit from Ron.
One more little task finished
I have to get an overhaul gasket kit ordered, and get the engine on an engine stand next to start replacing the gaskets and seals with new ones !
I am still wondering about the Copper head gasket vs. a material one ?
Best Regards,
Ray
Hello,Raflad wrote: ↑Mon Nov 28, 2022 12:31 pmI did the same thing Ray, added a washer. As for cotter pins, I think both methods are acceptable, I think it looks neater bending the leg over the end of the bolt. I used to be an aircraft mechanic in the RAF and we mostly wrapped the legs around the nut. When the leg was bent over the bolt we called it “the American way”
Very good Adam , those look nice and clean !
I think I will do mine that way as well.
I just replaced the non working brake light pressure switch with a new JMP unit from Ron.
One more little task finished
I have to get an overhaul gasket kit ordered, and get the engine on an engine stand next to start replacing the gaskets and seals with new ones !
I am still wondering about the Copper head gasket vs. a material one ?
Best Regards,
Ray
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hi Ray, here are the close-ups you requested. I did measure the gap between each steering arm and the brake backing plates at their closest points and the right side is 0.1” closer. So may have a slight bend in it that’s contributing to the problem
Adam Smith
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
GPW 80535, 11-19-42
MBT 2470, 8-42, USA #0160905
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts
Hello,
Thanks Adam !
It does looks just like my set up.
I read on the G that the pitman arm and the drag link should appear vertically in line top to bottom when the wheels are straight ahead , from the sector shaft nut, to where the pitman ball gets installed in the drag link, as pictured above.
I am thinking if you find that the right side steering arm is bent, I would replace it just to be sure.
Especially before the brake lines are installed.
Used originals, and even nos ones are available on ebay, and the prices are low enough to let you get one, and remove any possible issues with a bent one.
Just tighten the new one up properly, but I guess the fun part will be removing your current one, but it can be done.
When building my axle, I actually installed mine backwards, and had I all tightened down.
I took it off, but took a little effort as those studs are sort of tapered and make for a nice tight installation.
Best Regards,
Ray
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