1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

[70th Division]

Hello,

I managed to get the frame ready to work on today.
I removed the engine, transmission, and transfer case as one unit. I slung it in 3 locations and lifted in all up slowly and carefully. All went very well after disconnecting and unbolting everything.
I used a front end loader to lift it up and out.

I also cut off the rear crossmember that was made from an angle iron.
Next I cut away the front pipe bumper, and got down to the lower gussets which can be repaired.
Both the rear frame rail and the front rail tips need some repair.

I was able to save the lower gusetts and will repair the pointy tips that were cut off the frame rail.
I will also bend the bottom gusset flat again where they had bent them up and welded the ends around the edge of the pipe bumper
The new gusset is a beautiful JMP set from Ron.
I will be attaching them, and the new rear crossmember with the special torque off rivets.
Best Regards,
Ray

[17thAirborne]

Nice work Ray. You are helping to encourage me to be more daring in what I will tackle myself on the next project. I have much to learn.

[70th Division]

Hello ,

Thanks Oz !

I am just winging it as I go along.
I am glad it is of motivational benefit
Looking at your website, you have been doing great work and getting things done.
I hope this project helps others move forward on their restorations !!
I have to figure out my springs,
As 1 is Gpw correct, and I have a 1 additional correct front spring to replace the Willys one, but my 2 rear springs have fat, flat, spring clips on them.
But the springs look like the GPW type with the tapered spring ends, but the spring clips were replaced .
I saw how you have to rivet them onto the spring on your website.
Great work there !!
I ordered 4 nos clips for each rear spring.
However I don't have any rivet tools, let alone ever tried the heated rivet process on anything.

I also see that one spring is broken as well.
I may just locate a Gpw set of rear springs and figure out the riveting and replacement of the broken spring leaf at a later time when needed for a different jeep !
It will save me time, and I can focus on the frame repairs .
It seems every time you turn around there is another area that needs repair !!
My new rear F marked rear crossmember only has half the factory holes drilled in it.
That makes no sense to me at all, as they are needed to get it aligned properly. Especially since the rivet hole angle piece on my frame was cut off. I will have to splice in 2 new pieces from off of an original cut off frame section.
Once that is done, I will have to figure out where to drill the holes, and hope I get it accurate.
I have a few sets of the snap off rivets to attach it.
Just a lot of extra work created that should have been done by the supplier of the repro part !
I have also found a reinforcing plate welded on the frame below the steering box area.
Half the size of yours, but I will take it off to see what the situation is under there. The frame has no rust, and no pitting. There was a ton of California dirt, clay, inside the frame rails. I used a big screw driver and vacuum to get most of it out.
Then I power washed the entire frame this morning. I did get all the remaining dirt and debris out of the frame.


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Here are some pictures of the California mud in the frame rails.
It is a mild soil, as not caustic at all, and caused no rust or any pitting at all !!!
That is a huge win right there

Here are the frame rails after cleaning out with the shop vac, and then power washing .

They cleaned up really nice !!!


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hi,

Here are some pictures of the springs on the frame.
One front spring has a number stenciled on it, with a type of heavy duty spring clips installed.

The 2 rear springs have flat thin metal clips, but the springs appear to be GPW type with the tapered ends on each leaf. I don't know if other jeeps that used this type of leaf spring.

Here are what the rear spring clips look like :

Here is my one correct GPW driver's side front spring, with torque reaction spring fitted as well.

Best Regards,
Ray

[conrod6]

Nice frame - wish mine was as good.

Barrie

[70th Division]

Hello,

Thanks Barrie !!
This frame is rust free, but has some repairs needed in both rear frame rails, and front rails with the lower gussets .
I am lucky it was a California jeep, as every one found in Florida so far has a Swiss cheese look !!
The sand and soil here, added with dew everynight and rain all summer, take a toll on the frames and entire jeep.

I am looking forward to getting this jeep put back together again !!


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello Barrie,

Well I found a frame issue that will have to be properly repaired !!

There is a plate on the ouside frame rail below the steering box.
There is a crack on the inner rail .
Just when you think you are making forward progress, another thing is found. I will have to research the correct way to repair this !

Here are a couple pictures of the issue. I will remove the plate to see what the damage was in the area.

Uggg......


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

I also have finished the passenger
seat repairs, primed it, and gave it its initial first coat of olive drab since WW2
I will add several more coats to really protect it for the future !!

I will add more pics tomorrow after the next paint coat.
It is drying now.
I am happy to have been able to save this original seat from oblivion, and restore the original seat pan.
It will look great when new canvas cushions are attached.
I will have to research whether this 5-43 GPW needs the zippered seats with springs and padding, or if it will just need the 42 type zippered cushions with "foam" and an Army blanket folded up, added to each seat.
On my 42 GPW I have zippered seat cushions with the Army blanket and a piece of foam that came from WeeBee in them. I will say they are very comfortable, and 4 inches tall.
The seat back cushions are 1 1/4 inches thick and are also very comfortable.


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello,

Well before I finish the passenger seat I figured I had better get the bottom 4 footman loops off, and clean up under them!!

The screws were pitted and rusted tight into the tube.
I hammered lightly on the screw heads, and the footman loop on both sides to loosen them up the rust grip.
Then I used my cordless drill with a regular bit to get them out. It worked well, but some were a struggle !
A little more tapping did the trick.

I have noticed something that I didn't know and maybe some G members would like to know too, as a tiny discovery as it is :

The little screws on this 1942 GPW passenger seat are bevel headed.
That is the screw has a curved head that the slot is located in .
The 3 original GPW passenger seats I have, all have the bevel headed screws holding the footman loops for the under seat canvas top stowage.

The Willys MB seats I have use flat headed screws on their footman loops under the passenger seat.

An unseen difference, but the GPW
restorers should be aware of it.

I have not discovered any bevel headed screws on the other footman loops on the GPW Jeeps like for the shovel and ax handle footman loops.

So an interesting little thing, but, have other GPW owners discovered any bevel headed screws on any other footman loops besides their passenger seat underside ??

Here are some pics of the bevel head screws on 2 GPW seats , you can see the curvature:

I was fortunate enough to get 2 sets of under seat stowage straps for my 2 GPWs
The complete strap kits are out of stock, and JMP makes the best !!
I will get some when Ron gets them back in stock.
Now I have to research which way the straps attach

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

They're actually called oval head screws and I thought both MB's and GPW's used them for all the self threading footman loops. I thought the flat heads were for the 10-32 threaded screws that used nuts.

[70th Division]

Hello Jeff,

On my GPW jeeps, the only oval head screws are on the 4 footman loops on the underside of the passenger seat. So far all the ones on the side footman loops are flat head, but do use nuts.
Good point !!!!

But on the MB seats, the screws are flat head as well.
Here are some pics of Willys flat head screws on passenger seats.

I am also now wondering if the 2 footman loops on an original set of GPW top bows use the oval head screws too ???

Hopefully someone with an original set can let us know !!
If I was to guess, I would say that they would indeed be oval head screws too !!


Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Interesting find. I’ll have to check the book now out of curiosity!

[1942 Ford GPW 352nd]

Hello Todd,

It appears that there is no tag on the transmission at all.
However studying the way Moore attached all the other tags, they drilled through casting areas that didn't intrude on any areas that oil could seep out.
I think they just added the rebuild tag to the complete transmission/transfercase assembly.
I haven't seen a rebuild tag on the MB engine either, but will look once I remove it and clean the gunk off it.
I have seen French rebuild tags added to the transmission top cover plate. I have one here like that. Maybe Moore didn't want to make holes in the oil reservoir case at all ?

Best Regards,
Ray

Thanks for your post Ray! I thought during my travels that I have seen a Moore tag on at T-84 case, but you make a good point. It wouldn't seem as though it would be wise to penetrate the T84 casing as it would be prone to leak.

After looking at the photos of your frame, the dirt appears to have the same consistency (i.e. - dry and loose) as mine before I refinished it.
I am hoping that you find your frame is with little or minor corrosion just as mine! Good luck and great progress!

[70th Division]

Hello Thanks Todd,

The frame is rust free, but has a crack that I will need to fix, and will plate from inside the rail, build and weld plates into itt as well as a T shaped bracket to weld the section of the inner rail back into it. I think that will make a rock solid, permanent repair. It won't be seen when done, and will do the job. I just need to get the steel plate to cut to fit. It in " theory " should be a
a straight forward repair


Best Regards,
Ray