1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

If you have an unrestored WWII jeep, we would like to see pictures, and hear your comments. NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
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1942 Ford GPW 352nd
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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Fri Jun 24, 2022 5:11 am

70th Division wrote:
Wed Jun 22, 2022 7:13 am
1942 Ford GPW 352nd wrote:
Wed Jun 22, 2022 6:22 am
Ray,
Truly impressed with your perseverance, dedication and commitment towards preserving these fine vehicles. After going through most of your previous posts, you must be reaching towards the end of the "finishing line" with your restoration. Are there an significant components such as the tub, that require a lot of work?
Hello Todd,

Thanks for your great encouraging comments !

Your restoration post is a gold standard on restoring a GPW !!
You are doing such great and incredible work, your results look perfect !!


This jeep is getting closer every day, I have to get the front axle and leaf springs finished to get a rolling chassis established.
Then the engine and transmission can be mounted and tested. The engine needs a copper sleeve added to the distributor tunnel, and repainting from olive drab, etc.

The main work left is the front axle restoration and assembly and the front leaf spring restorations.

The body tub metal work has been completed, a few small items left like riveting in the rear seat brackets still need to be done.
The rivet tools I had made arrived last week , so I should get that done soon.
The tub is outside as I don't have space in the barn for it, so it will be the last piece of the puzzle to blast, prime, and paint, then it can be put on the finished rolling frame, inside the barn.
Resized_20220622_141620.jpeg
Here is what it looks like .
You can see the rear seat brackets are not yet riveted in, but will be soon !!
I did repair the rivet holes that were torn up, and elongated.
On the body, I also have to install the threaded studs for the rear upper seat brackets that were snapped off. Also the stone guards have to be welded into place above the gas tank well.
The little bracket for the hand crank on the upper rear panel also has to be welded on, I have an original to reattach.
Once blasted, I will also add some metal filler over all the weld joints that have already been ground smooth, just for good cosmetic results,
and sand that metallic filler smooth.

The metal filler will eliminate grinder scratches, and any imperfections there.

That is all the needs to be done before final priming and painting.

I am looking forward to getting to the point where I can work on the tub again, but have to get the frame attached to the restored springs and axles, so the restored body can be placed inside when done, keeping it out the the elements !

The weather looks good today, so I am blasting the front leaf springs, and the spindle housing.

Best Regards,
Ray
Thanks Ray for your kind words. I am trying to do my best as I never tackled a project like this before and have many to thank such as yourself and others on the G that have shared their knowledge and expertise in keeping these historic artifacts alive!

Are you still using your Miller Mig welder that is posted in the early pages of your restoration page? Looks like I will need to purchase a small Mig and will need to do some research before buying one to do my repairs to my tub. My father had a Miller Mig welder that I used and loved, but unfortunately I will now need to purchase my own and noticed the Miller mig's are pricey.


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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Fri Jun 24, 2022 7:28 am

Hello Todd,

Well we are all doing our best to save and restore these beautiful American symbols of our History !

I am using the Miller welder, and it is a wonderful welder.
I do not have the gas kit with it, and have never used one.
It seems to weld very nice, and I use mainly .035 or .030 wire if that is all that is available .
Tips thread in when changing wire sizes if needed.

The Miller that I have is 110 Volt, so it uses a standard plug, but it should be a 20 amp breaker at least, but you can check.
I think my breaker is 15 :D

I bought it used at an auction for $300 or $350 and the ground clamp was missing, but are available anywhere to replace it.

Buying a used Miller, you should be ok, as parts are available if repairs needed, and they are well made.

I also have a Lincoln and that works good as well.


If you are buying used, look for Miller or even Lincoln.
There are other off brand ones like old Napa units you may find that work well.

Look on craigslist or facebook market place, and you may find a good deal on a Miller unit.

I like Miller, never having had one, but this one seems to work on auto-pilot :D

The main thing to remember is, where you plan to weld, there has to be a plug to plug it in.
I have been welding outside, but just outside the side door of the garage with the welder just set outside.
You are limited by the plug wire length, and the length of your welding lead and ground wires.

Never weld with an extension cord plugged into your welder.

What I plan to do is to take a length of 110V standard electric wire and wire it into the breaker box directly then add a plug to the end.

This will give the distance I really need to get to work outside on the driveway, and the reach I need .

You can do that with 220V wire as well, it will be just like a wire in the wall with the correct breaker and plug on the end,
just roll in up when done and put in in the garage.
Disconnect when done using it, or have an electrician build one up, and connect it for you, and disconnect when done.
But, remember Safety First !!


Having a clean bare metal area to clamp the ground in the key to good welding !

Good luck on your tub restoration,
and keep us posted !

Hopefully you can find a deal on a nice used welder !


Best Regards,
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Sun Jun 26, 2022 2:54 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by Adam » Fri Jun 24, 2022 2:31 pm

Put an outlet in your garage near the fuse box. do not use indoor electrical wire for an outside extension cord. get some sjo sjto or what not, black, 3 conductor, #8. good for 50 amps. Make an extension cord from that.
Or really do it right and mount a outlet outside with the proper electrical supplies.

Adam

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Fri Jun 24, 2022 3:02 pm

Hello,

I have been blasting the front leaf springs.
The driver's side ones are all primed and almost done.
The areas not primed are because I am going to weld up some grooves on the inside of the spring clips.
Resized_20220624_190551.jpeg
The springs wear into the clips over the decades.
Resized_20220624_190536.jpeg
Really nice F marks on the spring clips :
Resized_20220627_181713.jpeg

This will restore them to proper function, and saves replacing them as well, as they are still in great shape.
The nos number 1 spring from Holland is all painted and hanging from the rafters, not pictured :D
Resized_20220624_185037.jpeg
Resized_20220624_190610(1).jpeg
Also interestingly, as others have mentioned, there is an L stamped on the small, very bottom leaf on the driver's side leaf stack.
On this year jeep it is the number 8 leaf.
Resized_20220624_190623(1).jpeg
Here is a pic of the entire number 8 leaf.

From what I understand, the L stands for Left, as in left driver's side front leaf spring.
Reading a post on the G , it was mentioned that the driver's side spring had a few different characteristics that the passenger's side leaf spring assembly. I am not familiar with what that would be, yet :D



The ones painted green are from the passenger side leaf spring.
I have a few more sections to blast still.

I got rained out today, as another big storm is rolling through.

Forward progress 😀😀 !

Also new JMP mufflers have arrived from England, to go with the JMP flex pipes from Ron.

I can hardly wait when the powers that be, get the shipping order in the world reestablished , and the parts will be back in stock in the USA.

Plus : The Mobil NLGI #1 front axle spindle housing and bearing grease arrived from Zoro, yesterday, it was here in 3 days !

Update:
All springs sections have been blasted and primed.
I have added metal filler to the slight pitting on these 3 springs.
I will get this sanded down smooth, and painted.
Resized_20220627_181240.jpeg
Next step will be taping and graphite application for both front spring stacks.

Best Regards,
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Tue Jun 28, 2022 4:45 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Mon Jun 27, 2022 2:29 pm

Hello,

Moving along , I blasted the spring shackles to get them restored and ready to sling the rear axle to the frame.
Resized_20220627_181029.jpeg
Resized_20220627_181209.jpeg
Resized_20220627_183142(2).jpeg
Resized_20220627_181438.jpeg
Here the screw tubes are blasted, and you can see one nut has the notches in it, designating left handed threads.
The driver's side front, and the passenger's side rear, both used the left handed units.
Only 1 nut was left handed on each shackle, the other being right handed.
The passenger's side front and driver's side rear both used all right handed threaded nuts on the shackles.
I left the primer off until they are wrenched into position, then I will prime and paint the nuts.
On this shackle I was able to blast and restore the original metal cups that the new rubber bushings from Holland will go inside.
The metal cups on the other shackle will be replaced with new Dutch ones that came with the rubber bushings.



Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 17thAirborne » Mon Jun 27, 2022 2:57 pm

Ray its great to find those "L" marks and the other stampings as well. Sort of like GPW forensics.
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Mon Jun 27, 2022 3:07 pm

17thAirborne wrote:
Mon Jun 27, 2022 2:57 pm
Ray its great to find those "L" marks and the other stampings as well. Sort of like GPW forensics.
Yes,

Absolutely Oz, especially when you weren't expecting it :D

Moving forward a little every day !


I put the front axle brake line clips in container white vinegar to clean them up.
I left them in there about a week, halfway through, I cleaned them up with a brillo pad, and put them back in.
They came out very clean, and since they appear to be plated with some sort of finish, I didn't want to sand or blast it away.

I will paint them anyways, but the white vinegar does work pretty good.
Resized_Resized_20220619_135727.jpeg
Resized_Resized_20220619_135830.jpeg
Resized_20220628_095902.jpeg
Resized_20220628_100101.jpeg
Perfectly good to use again !

Best Regards,
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Sun Jul 03, 2022 5:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Tue Jun 28, 2022 7:23 am

Hello,

Here are the new , very nice, spring shackle bushing rubber inserts.

These are from Holland, and were located on ebay.
As far as I can find, they are the only ones who have these correct rubber inserts and metal cups available.

(Update: Thanks to Barrie, he has found that another Dutch Jeep parts place makes F marked retainer cups !
Desmet Jeep parts.)
(I will see about getting a few more sets for my GPWs, and keep these for my MB projects.)

They will make for a very nice installation of the springs to the frame.

Now that they have arrived, I will work on mounting the rear axle to the frame !!
Resized_20220628_105444.jpeg
Note: These rubber bushing inserts are tapered, to match the shape of the retainer cups.
Resized_20220628_105401.jpeg
Resized_20220628_105444(1).jpeg
Resized_20220628_105652.jpeg
Here are 2 new ones next to the green original, they match perfect.


These are very important items to be replaced on your restoration.

We are very lucky to have them available, and I got a few extras for future jeeps 😃😃 !


Wait !!
Hold the phone !!

Look at what I found on a cup that was dented.

I was going to replace with a new Dutch one !!

Look at that 👍👍👍😃😃😃 !!
Resized_20220628_113656.jpeg
We can see the dented cup above
Resized_20220628_113714.jpeg
Now look at that beautiful discovery!
Resized_20220628_114700.jpeg
An F script mark on the shackle grease seal cup !!

I now can report that 3 original cups have been restored to use again.
I didn't know these had F marks on them.

I don't see any on the 2 cups I restored, but maybe they are covered in primer and paint.

What a nice reward, I blasted them, 2 were good, 1 was damaged, this one was only dented up.

Now it is going right back in service .


Best Regards,
Ray
Last edited by 70th Division on Sun Jul 03, 2022 5:29 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by JAB » Tue Jun 28, 2022 7:58 am

Isn't that funny, where those little F's pop up! I've seen those too and keep looking for more.
-Jeff

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Tue Jun 28, 2022 8:04 am

JAB wrote:
Tue Jun 28, 2022 7:58 am
Isn't that funny, where those little F's pop up! I've seen those too and keep looking for more.
Hi Jeff,

Yes always happy to find new F marks :D :D
Even happier that I can now re-use this one.
I tapped out the dents, and it is primed, and will be painted soon.
3 out of 4 restored, not bad :D

I will be sure to install this F cup with the original GPW "PM Pat'd" shackle :D :D

I will look at the front ones closely when I get to them.

Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Tue Jun 28, 2022 9:50 am

bazza46 wrote:
Wed Oct 27, 2021 1:42 am
Hi Ray,
It's good to see someone repairing the original parts of the frame, instead of using repro sections, which are sometimes of too heavy a gauge, or haven't the right curvature, or are not pressed, but fabricated from 3 pieces of plate. My experience with Ford frames is that they are made from (please don't hate me fellas) crappy steel (maybe it had a large mix of wartime scrap steel in it). So your welds will probably be stronger at that point than the original metal.

A suggestion though: you might like to check to see if the holes in your spring brackets are oval in any way. They often are, and a new bolt through will be able to rotate . As you know, they bolts have a set of serrations on the grease nipple side. These should not be able to go into the hole at first. They will make their own serrations as they are pulled through on the first installation. I've found they are rarely intact if the jeep has had any hard work.
On my chassis,
I've MIG welded around the inside of the holes, then hand filed them to get a semblance of roundness, and finished them with an appropriate sized drill. I've used a new bolt to check the diameter as I go. The thread end should fit snugly through the internal side lug, but the external side, I didn't make the hole big enough for the serrations to go in; just a little undersized. Then, when pulling the bolt through, using the nut as a puller, when you are finally installing the spring, you will get enough grunt to pull the splines into the metal.
Just my thoughts, Bazza

Hello Bazza,

I hope you are doing well !!

I wanted to show you the results of your excellent advice and assistance about welding up and repairing, then filing to fit, the spring hanger bolt holes that were wallowed out .

They were repaired, as you said they ought to be, which was a fun project.

Today, after many months, I arrived at the point of reattaching the restored rear springs and axle assembly.
I was thinking of you when I got it lined up with a rubber hammer and drift.
I was thinking, did I do a good enough repair job ?

Well, it was awesome, I had to use the wrench to slowly turn the threaded ends through the hanger, a very taught fit,
and both new NOS grease bolts went into position.

Next came the big test, with the splined shaft, and with a wrenching effort, it slowly pulled in tight.
Just like it was new !!!
Resized_20220628_132134.jpeg
Resized_20220628_132145.jpeg
I got a little sweat on the frame, it is a hot summer here in Florida !!
Resized_20220628_135156.jpeg
Resized_20220628_135223.jpeg
Thank you so much for this great advice to repair the holes !!!
They splined in nice and tight !!
I will set the cotter pins now as well.

Having new nos number 1 springs with a new brass bushings really adds to the effect !
(Thanks again Barrie)

A job well done, if I do say so myself :D :D

Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by JAB » Tue Jun 28, 2022 10:39 am

With the welded metal being harder than the original metal you need to be careful not to overtighten the mount, squeezing the spring. the spring needs a certain amount (very little) of slop to be allowed to pivot. Maybe after you pull in the splines you'll need to back off the nut one or two castelations (is that a word?) prior to installing the cotter pin.
-Jeff

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Tue Jun 28, 2022 10:46 am

JAB wrote:
Tue Jun 28, 2022 10:39 am
With the welded metal being harder than the original metal you need to be careful not to overtighten the mount, squeezing the spring. the spring needs a certain amount (very little) of slop to be allowed to pivot. Maybe after you pull in the splines you'll need to back off the nut one or two castelations (is that a word?) prior to installing the cotter pin.
Hello Jeff,

Will do, thanks for that good info !
I made sure to seat the splines, slowly , then stop.
Now I will back it of a little then if needed, and add the cotter pin.
Also will try to lift it a little to see if there is movement.

Well, I was able to lift the rear end up slightly and everything moved.
No binding.
I put the cotter pins in the holes, and they are right against the castle nut edge.
:D :D :D
I imagine everything is going to wear in as it gets rolling as well.
It is just nice to see something big going back onto the jeep, as reassembly starts :D :D


Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Tue Jun 28, 2022 5:44 pm

Hello,

I have attached the rear axle and springs to the frame !!
It feels good to have this milestone completed :D :D

It went together pretty well.
Resized_20220628_205539.jpeg
Now I will be able to get down there and sand and paint those primer stripes on the axle where it sat on the axle stand.
I will do that in the morning.
Resized_20220629_113319.jpeg
The primer stripes all sanded and painted now this morning 😄.
The only slight issue I ran into was with the older type of bushing nut with the "pressed in" type grease fittings for the shackle.
What size wrench socket does that sucker take ??
Resized_20220628_205633.jpeg
It is not 7/8 like the later type threaded in grease fitting !

So it was a little effort getting these bushings cranked in with about a quarter inch of my socket holding the nut end, but I got it done !
I just can't comprehend that the two types are different sizes !!

I tried both type 7/8 sockets , and they were the same, they hardly fit onto the nut.

The next step is to install JMP F marked rear shock absorbers.
Stone guards facing forward :D .
They look nice, and the same shade of olive drab I am using, but I primed them and will paint them again tomorrow.
Resized_20220628_215125.jpeg
It is always good to paint the shocks well, since every jeep I have, seem to have rusty
shock absorbers.
Resized_20220629_095232(1).jpeg
All painted this morning, once they are dried I will install them.
I just need to find the new washer kits, that are somewhere in the boxes of parts ! I may have to restore the original washers if I can't find the new ones, since I really just need the cotter pins 😄 .
I will get the rear end buttoned up, then get back to work on the front axle, as all the needed small parts are here now :D :D !

Also since I mounted the rear axle, I got rid of the big steel saw horse that was holding the frame up, and also blocking in my welding cart and welder.
I can roll the welder out now and weld up small grooves in some of the front spring clips.

Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: 1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

Post by 70th Division » Wed Jun 29, 2022 1:44 pm

Hello,

I opened up some boxes of parts, there are so many here now :D
I have discovered the many bolt packs for various things on the jeep, that came direct from JMP , are all bagged,
and almost all unlabeled !!
Great ....

Also, I just ordered another new set of 4 kingpin bearings, this time, US made Timken 11590 bearings , and US made Timken 11520 races, for the upper and lower kingpins on the front axle, via ebay.
I just wanted to keep things kosher, and didn't want to install Japanese bearings, although they are probably fine.
I am just that way :D
(It also looks like new current production ones are now made in China by Timken, will they ever learn ? )


I should be able to get back to the front axle work this week.
The new JMP shims also are here for the spindle arms, and a bunch of other parts, thanks Ron !!

Best Regards,
Ray


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