GPW 129448 Project

If you have an unrestored WWII jeep, we would like to see pictures, and hear your comments. NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
scheinerj
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GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Wed Sep 13, 2017 4:53 am

Hello all.

I am beginning my second project on a GPW.

This one will require A LOT of body work.

As of right now I have stripped the frame of all non OE parts, and primed it. I have repaired the rear and front frame horns.


Now, On the tub, I began cutting out the rear floor. It looked like there were 2 layers of sheet metal? I assume the floor should only be 1 layer and the P.O just strapped some new metal over a rusting floor? I will definitely need some assistance with all of the tub repairs because I have never done something this extensive with panel repairs...
Any tips would be APPRECIATED!

Thanks!
Attachments
tub.jpg
tub.jpg (48.44 KiB) Viewed 2847 times
frame 1.jpg
frame 1.jpg (106.93 KiB) Viewed 2847 times
tub 2.jpg
tub 2.jpg (99.48 KiB) Viewed 2847 times


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Goranwc51
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by Goranwc51 » Wed Sep 13, 2017 7:38 am

The twin layer of flooring I have come across before, probably pot there to strengthen the floor. The original floor was only one layer.

Goran N

scheinerj
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Tue Oct 24, 2017 9:33 am

I am definitely going to post pictures soon.

I do have a question however and need a little bit of direction.

I currently have the tub mounted to a rotisserie. Half of the front floor is cut out (rust), the rear floor is cut out, and the wheel well passenger side is cut out. I still need to remove the rear panel, because as you can see above, it is rounded. A P.O simply cut the tub just added some steel around it and did not make a new rear panel when old rusted it. They simply laid it on top.

I want to make sure I do fabrication in the correct order.

I am working on repairing the drivers side wheel well / glove box. It is still attached, just needs some patch panels.

After that I was planning to create fabricate / buy a new wheel well/ glove box and put that in.
I obviously would not attach it to the rear panel because that is coming out.

Next would I work on the floor? Or should I work on the rear panel? Obviously if I work on the rear panel I have to take it off the rotisserie, my plan was to do that last while I worked on everything else including the floor riser and front floor.

Or would the floor need to be in to work on the rear panel? (For fit reason) This is my first major overhaul on a tub and first for major fabrication.

Any direction would be appreciated.
JS

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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by pittsjock » Wed Oct 25, 2017 3:10 am

Jordie:

The tub I am working on has some similar issues. We are posting weekly YouTube videos here: https://www.youtube.com/user/PortrayalPress

I would fix in the following order:

1. Driver side inner fender well.
2. Sit tub on either a purpose made frame or sawhorses. The frame needs to be handy as you will need the mounting references when you start repairing both the floor and installing the rear panel. A purpose made frame, leveled and with a higher rear support for the back of the tub is worth the time to make.
3. Fit the new/fabbed passenger side wheel well. You can hammerform the toolbox lid area and the rest of it is flat metal with straight bends. Joe's Motor Pool sure has nice new ones for $260 - just a question of how you want to do it.
4. Once both inner fender wells are fitted to the sides correctly, the rear panel should fit in well. Once everything is well-fitted, I would take self-tapping machine screws and screw the inner fender well to the side panel. You will want the reference for the floor.
5. I would then make/install the rear floor. Again you can hammerform the front rounded area of the rear floor if you are looking for low budget.
6. Again, screw the floor in place and then check fit on rear panel. At this point, I would also want to sit the tub on the actual frame and make sure everything lines up.
7. Take it back apart, make sure you have hammered out all of the dents and then reinstall and spot weld into position. Because the driver side inner fender well is installed, you are going to have to be creative with the spot-welded flange (rear panel to side panel) on the driver side. You might be able to get a couple. Practice installing the passenger side inner fender well with the rear panel installed because that is the order of assembly.

Regards, Patrick
Patrick
1943 Willys MB
1969 M274A2 Mule
Peoples Republic of New Jersey
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/PortrayalPress

scheinerj
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Wed Oct 25, 2017 5:07 am

Hi Patrick,
Thank you for the direction. I will post updates !
Great videos by the way!
JS

scheinerj
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Wed Oct 25, 2017 5:59 am

Patrick,
Would this make sense (because it was not easy to mount the tub to rotisserie):
1. Fix driver side fender well
2. Fix any outside side panels
3. Fix front floor.
Then from rotis, put on saw horses, and cut out rear panel, start reshaping rear corner, then go to rear floor and rear panel installation.

scheinerj
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:25 am

I have been removing the rusted metal piece by piece.
Each time I get some more out, I feel like more grows.
Unfortunately, much of the body is just wrapped in new sheet metal on top of the old partly rusted metal.
Here are some pictures.
Attachments
Patch panel driver side door.JPG
Patch panel driver side door.JPG (85.75 KiB) Viewed 2461 times
Trans channel.JPG
Trans channel.JPG (103.25 KiB) Viewed 2461 times
passenger front side panel.JPG
passenger front side panel.JPG (84.93 KiB) Viewed 2461 times
Passenger front floor cut out.JPG
Passenger front floor cut out.JPG (73.88 KiB) Viewed 2461 times

Beers
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by Beers » Thu Oct 26, 2017 6:13 pm

Bubba loves to wrap old metal with new.

Keep at it JS, everything you cut out and correct is bringing this tub one step closer to being back as it originally was intended. And that’s all good :)
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

scheinerj
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:50 am

Beers wrote:
Thu Oct 26, 2017 6:13 pm
Bubba loves to wrap old metal with new.

Keep at it JS, everything you cut out and correct is bringing this tub one step closer to being back as it originally was intended. And that’s all good :)
Thanks Beers! This tub is going to take me LONG time!

Are there any resources to get dimensions for the tub for various panels? I have a fully restored CJ3A in my garage. I know it is a little bit longer, but I wonder how the vertical dimensions of tub line up?

Beers
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by Beers » Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:01 am

JS, some of the drawings Jon has on JeepDraw would give you a really good idea of panel dimensions. I don’t know how the CJ3A lines up, there certainly are some notable differences between the tubs...
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Daren
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by Daren » Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:38 am

Hi buddy,
I would definately get some of the drawings from jeepdraw, they are worth their weight in gold when doing tubs. I had to do alot of fabrication on my tub and got it pretty well sorted with Jons drawings. Also help with locating the holes in the body that are meant to be there and those that are not.
Your project sound quite a task I think I would fix the outer body she'll first and then fettle the floor panels to fit. Most body sections are available to buy if funds allow, or if you are not too fussed by authenticity a new tub could be the way to go (again if funds allow) and would save a whole tonne of work and time.
I rebuilt mine because it was a script ford tub but if doing another later model I may go the new tub route in the future.
Regards
Daren
Daren
1942 Ford GPW
Scun Thorpe UK

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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by Daren » Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:43 am

I really hope no one was hurt on the 40mph bend whose warning sign got misappropriated for the floor once upon a time. :D
Daren
1942 Ford GPW
Scun Thorpe UK

scheinerj
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by scheinerj » Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:39 am

Daren wrote:
Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:38 am
Hi buddy,
I would definately get some of the drawings from jeepdraw, they are worth their weight in gold when doing tubs. I had to do alot of fabrication on my tub and got it pretty well sorted with Jons drawings. Also help with locating the holes in the body that are meant to be there and those that are not.
Your project sound quite a task I think I would fix the outer body she'll first and then fettle the floor panels to fit. Most body sections are available to buy if funds allow, or if you are not too fussed by authenticity a new tub could be the way to go (again if funds allow) and would save a whole tonne of work and time.
I rebuilt mine because it was a script ford tub but if doing another later model I may go the new tub route in the future.
Regards
Daren
[/quote
Thank you for your advice.
I thought about getting a different tub but I wanted to keep the numbers matching to the frame.
Plus I will definitely learn a lot restoring this one.

I will take your advice and get some Jeep Draw.
Thanks!
Jordan S.

Daren
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by Daren » Fri Oct 27, 2017 1:36 pm

Fair point about the numbers matching.
You definately won't regret getting the jeep draw design pics they are so helpful.
Thanks Jon and Co.
Regards
Daren
1942 Ford GPW
Scun Thorpe UK

pittsjock
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Re: GPW 129448 Project

Post by pittsjock » Sun Oct 29, 2017 4:09 am

scheinerj wrote:
Wed Oct 25, 2017 5:59 am
Patrick,
Would this make sense (because it was not easy to mount the tub to rotisserie):
1. Fix driver side fender well
2. Fix any outside side panels
3. Fix front floor.
Then from rotis, put on saw horses, and cut out rear panel, start reshaping rear corner, then go to rear floor and rear panel installation.
From my perspective, the main issue you are facing is alignment. You don't want to get to the end and not have the body mounts line up correctly.

I would repair the side panels (particularly driver side) while the fender well is off. I would be scared to put the fender well back in place unless I was very sure that the rear panel was in the right spot. I think I would fix the sides, remove the rear panel and fix the fender wells, rear panel and then remount and get everything else done.

I agree on the JeepDraw drawings. I have them for most of the affected areas on my tub and they are very helpful.

Keep at it!

Patrick
Patrick
1943 Willys MB
1969 M274A2 Mule
Peoples Republic of New Jersey
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/PortrayalPress


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