GPW - 245424

If you have an unrestored WWII jeep, we would like to see pictures, and hear your comments. NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
greeneagleking
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GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:52 am

Hi folks,

Mine and my Dad's first restoration project. Fairly good condition all round, lots of F marked parts, a few incorrect additions over the years! Matching frame and engine serials put its DOD October '44 - Feb '45. Currently being disassembled and an inventory put together. Having problems retrieving hood markings etc (see photos), looks like they might have been wiped by a previous owner.

Will post progress and problems as much as I can!

Cheers,
Ben and Giles
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S McIlwaine
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by S McIlwaine » Sun Jul 03, 2016 2:15 pm

Nice project take plenty of pictures before and during strip down. Did you import that beauty or find it lerking some were? lack of rust would indicate a Californian import -tub looks very sound. Shame the original markings appear to have been scrubbed. Some buba mods like the spare wheel carrier and front bumper but should be easy to put right. Do you have a plan /finish date in mind? Mine is progressing well 13 years on from initial purchase can't wait to drive it lol.
Just another UK jeep lover

greeneagleking
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:50 pm

We've been rather busy lately organising the workshop in preparation for the repairs. Now have the frame up on some stands in preparation for welding. Also managed to pick up a second hand hydraulic press, air compressor and parts washer to help us on our way.

Currently the frame has just come back from sandblasting with a rust protective coating allowing us to not have to rush through the repairs. Luckily there wasn't any surprises! We have a experienced welding friend of ours coming to have a look at some of the problem areas and give us some tips as it is our first time welding.
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In the meantime the rear axle is being stripped and cleaned out and replacing the seals and looking for any chips in the gears - so far no chips but very light pitting on the ring gear and some of the roller bearings and bearing cups. How bad does the pitting have to be to require a replacement?

Cheers Ben and Giles
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42cargo
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by 42cargo » Mon Sep 26, 2016 4:23 pm

Nice project, congratulations on your progress.

To narrow your date of delivery down, try contacting Tom Wolboldt on this site and send him a photo of the serial number on your frame. He has an extensive database and in many instances can tell from the font of the stamp on the frame in which factory your vehicle was assembled.

Good luck,

John
G503 GPW Parts Wanted
Original F-marked bracket to hold battery in place and one J-bolt
Original F-marked front bumper

greeneagleking
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:15 pm

Looking for a bit of advice on the rear diff!

We have now painted and cleaned up the rear differential and housing and have bought replacement roller bearings for the diff assembly. The question is with the new bearings do we have to do all the setup such as pinion depth, backlash and ring gear pattern? We will be reusing the original shims and replacing all seals.

Any help is appreciated :D
Cheers Ben and Giles


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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by artificer » Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:47 pm

Simple answer is YES. See dogs recent thread & others.
Make sure you replace the 2 axle seals inside the axle tubes just in from the differential crown carrier.
That brake backing plate in the background is of larger than original but if they were on the vehicle I would be going with them.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

greeneagleking
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Mon Nov 28, 2016 2:16 pm

I'm starting to see Artificer that realistically its the proper way to do the job after looking at Dogs and a few other threads.

Yes, I have ordered the replacement axle seals so will do that.
Sorry not sure quite what you mean about the brake backing plate?

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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Fri Jul 07, 2017 4:55 am

It's been a while since I've posted anything, but there has been progress.

The front bumper gusset sections have been replaced. Although not too happy with the look of the rivets so thinking of changing them to Brent Mullins imitations.

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Sections in the frame have also been replaced because of rust, which on the whole have been successful. Although I've had problems with warping.

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greeneagleking
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Fri Jul 07, 2017 5:16 am

Frame Warp/Bend HELP!

During replacing some rusted panels in the frame it has warped and bent in and out between 1/16 - 1/18 which I've only realised turning the frame over.

Obviously visually it's a problem and I want to fix it however I've really struggled to make any real indent into it. We uses ratchet straps, hammering and bottle jacks but still the problem persists partly I think because it has only happened at the bottom half of the frame section.

Is this a complete replacement job, replacing the new bit and doing it properly or can it be bent back into position?

I'm also aware the jeep frame will bend and warp slightly as it gets used over time. Am I fussing too much about this?

Other side ( as it should be)
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Bad side
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Cheers
Ben and Giles

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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by Captain John » Wed Jul 19, 2017 2:18 pm

After straightening bent model A Ford frames I found you have to jack way past the bend to eventually get it true . It springs back every time . This is with an open sided channel frame ,the GPW frame is mostly semi boxed so making it even more difficult to jack true . IMHO I don't think you can jack it back without buckle damage etc etc . If it were me I would leave as is .Check the shackle brackets are true to each other ,use a long rod to go across the frame sliding through the bracket holes . Measure front to back and as long it is within spec carry on . You should able to mount the tub OK maybe jiggle the holes a bit . No one will know !!! .When the jeep is all together the slightly out of true frame will not be noticed . My GPW 67825 also has bent frame also bent front axle which wont matter as I have freewheel hubs !!! I will not attempt to straighten my frame as that old English saying says "A hiding to nowhere " for sure .

Captain John in warm humid evening Suffolk County England .

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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by bazza46 » Wed Jul 19, 2017 4:27 pm

Hi Ben and Giles.
As you probably know (as you seem to be good welders), the welde portions, when cooled have shrunk the frame on that side. The only way to correct this would be to stretch the welded bits (not possible), or shrink the portion of the frame opposite them. You'd have to have a 'Porto-Power', and chain and place the ram at the centre of the bend, with the chain forming a triangle back to the frame where it would be attached , possibly by plates bolted to the frame. Then you'd need lots of oxy acetylene heat applied to the frame where it's stretched (both on the inside C-section as well as the outer and when its good and red, jack the frame a bit at that point. This could cause a wrinkling of the metal, which would have to be lightly hammered flat before it cooled. All this would be easier if the inner frame section was removed. You can see how the C-section was originally bent by the wrinkling on the rear pintle brace.

And you'd have to do it at several points to avoid a sharp angle deviation in the frame at the point of bending. You'd have to do it at each point where you replaced or welded a patch in.
'
Alternatively, you could cut a tiny piece out (just a hacksaw width or more) at the top surface of the rail at the bent sections and 'V the cut (for penetration) and weld it up. It will either shrink itself back to the correct point, or you will have to apply bending pressure to the part of the frame to close the gap a bit prior to welding. the grind off the top of the weld so it's invisible . A few small cuts will add up to enough to render the rail straight, hopefully without apparent 'flat spots'

All in all, it looks tedious and hard work, but seeing a the frame is stripped down now, this would be the time to do it, as if you're like me (anal about such things), if you re-assemble it not done, you'll always think of the bend and it will annoy you, even though no-one else in the world will see or care about it.
But really, the previous advice about getting the spring hangers into line and forgetting about straightening the frame, will work just as well. During the war, the Aussie Army did much rougher repairs on jeeps, and they still worked.
Image
Precision work on jeep chassis
"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt"..Bertrand Russell

greeneagleking
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Thu Jul 20, 2017 4:43 am

Thanks Cpt.John and Bazza both great bits of advice.

Sadly I'm definitely the sort of perfectionist who will know that its not straight even though you cannot see it. I wish it didn't bother me but I will have to rectify it.

Currently the inside c section along that side of the frame is out so repairs would be easier. I'm very tempted to cut out the whole warped section and replace properly. I don't have access to oxy and would have to rent/borrow a Porto Power. I did try cutting a slit into the affected areas and welded it up working fairly well but still left with a bend.

I'm having a few bits and pieces including the warped length being bent up at my local sheet metal place anyway so we are most likely going to replace the section. The warping only begins 3/4 down the side of the frame so although its a long section it is a fairly straight forward affair.

Have you any advice for making this repair? Mainly with regards to keeping it straight!

Thanks again,
Ben and Giles

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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by Ran504 » Fri Jul 21, 2017 2:05 am

G'day Ben and Giles get yourself an oxy set and google metal shrinking, it is amazing what can be achieved with a oxy and wet rag.
Regards
Randall
GPW143639, DOD 9/6/43, Willys MB Body ACME1 84406, Engine # N531423P.

greeneagleking
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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by greeneagleking » Mon Aug 07, 2017 5:37 am

Afternoon folks,

We are currently replacing the area where the frame meets the rear crossmember and wondering the best plan of action for welding the frame section on.

As you can see we have made several cuts to allow the metal to bend into the correct position. As well as increasing the surface areas of the welds by adding some v cut outs. Our worry is it's not going withstand the shock and could cause some issues later on down the line.

A friend suggested fish plating on the inside a piece which goes from the bumper all the way along to below the shock absorber mounts which would add strength but also remain fairly invisble.

What do you reckon we should do?

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Cheers Ben and Giles

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Re: GPW - 245424

Post by twinflyer17 » Mon Aug 07, 2017 7:17 am

My guess would be that some good hot and strong welds should be fine as is and the fish plate likely won't be necessary. It might be beneficial to create a new template with smaller gaps, though, so that you have more strong metal on metal to weld and less gaps which will need to be filled. My biggest concern would be welding it in small batches so that you limit the risk to warping the back portion of your frame.
Sean

GPW 108175 viewtopic.php?f=96&t=267732
DOD 4/14/43 Louisville, KY USA20371070

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