1943 Ford GPW Build from Rescued 1943 Parts

[70th Division]

I believe that after researching it like you are, I did exactly what you have pictured there. I don't know that the manual calls for that slinger in the transfer case but it can't hurt at that location, which is why I probably did it.

That is great Jeff,
Thanks for the confirmation !

The manual actually calls that slinger a "washer" on the schematic, called out as AW, on the transfer case diagram.

But one also goes over the spacer, before the rear bearing gets installed in the T-84 case.

It is the same "washer" which is an oil slinger in actuality.


Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello Jeff and Adam,

Ok I think I am figuring this out.

I have the nut torqued for a starting point to 80 pounds.

To lock the transmission I slid the 1st gear all the way to the rear, and the syncro all the way forward.
Rock solid, no turning.


So from watching Matt, Greendot319 on YouTube, he mentions that play between the second gear and the syncro ring, is fixed.
So we should get the front syncro ring and third gear, to have the exact same amount of fixed play.

This front ring can be adjusted using shims placed onto the rear oil slinger, under the rear bearing.

So this should work towards getting the gaps on each side of the syncro even.
The set or fixed gap between the second gear and syncro ring is fixed, so that is what we need to match, by adding shims under the rear bearing, to adjust and decrease the existng gap on the opposite side of the synco between it and third gear.

Does this sound kosher ?

I think it is the way to get that set properly.

Here is a pic of the fixed maximum gap between second gear and the syncro on the transmission.

Here is the front maximum gap of the forward syncro ring and third gear.

This gap is a bit wider than the fixed gap.

I will add some shims and retorque and take a look.
I got the shim pack from Ron.

With the nut torqued at 80 pounds, everything turns freely, the same as it did with a loose nut, no binding or any issues.

If all works good, I will test higher torque, in the range mentioned a few posts back.

Best Regards,
Ray

[70th Division]

Hello Jeff,

Ok I think I have got this syncro setting method handled !

I found that the fixed gap on the second gear syncro is the exact width of a circlip that I got from Ron.

So with that in mind, I used the circlip in the front gap on the third gear, and added a shim to match the extra amount of the gap.
1 thick shim plus the circlip filled it in to a perfect fit.

Next, I carefully removed the nut of the rear, I took the t case piece off the rear of the case, removed the dummy bearing, carefully, holding tight the assembly from moving, as we dont want to screw up the synco dogs if it slides out of position and out too far, and added another thick shim.
I had earlier put a thick shim on before torqueing , so now there are 2 thick shims.
This set the forward syncro gap when tightened back down at 80 pounds to matching the fixed gap on second gear.

The natural fixed gap, with a circlip fitting with very slight resistance .

The forward third gear syncro, with the circlip fit into the gap with very slight resistance.
These are both gapped exactly the same now , thanks to the use of 2 shims.

Now to figure how to calculate the end play of the main shaft.

I assume that the "main shaft" is the main shaft with first and second gear slid onto it, and not the front shaft with the front bearing and third gear attached.

If that is the correct method, I put the dial indicator on the top of the case, and the indicator on the big transfer case gear, and levered the second gear forward, and then set the indicator gauge at at zero, then levered it towards the rear to see what it reads.

Here are the results :

Pushed rearward with the prybar.

Pushed max effort to the rear with the prybar.

Is this a good endplay reading ?
Is this the correct method to measure endplay ?

The syncro rings now have matched gaps, and the end play, like doing an engine crank endplay reading, reads .002 to .003.

What do you think ??

There is not much out there explaining how to do this, so I hope this is correct


Also I want to point out to other G members that will rebuild their T84's, I turned the shaft to get the cotter pin hole for the mainshaft nut to straight up and down, this will make life easy when torquing the nut on to know where the hole is, when setting to your desired torque setting.

This is almost perfectly aligned for a cotter pin at 80 pounds, and I believe when I torque it to between 100 to 120 pounds it will still be aligned, as it has space to go to become better aligned to the cotter pin hole.

Once the new gear and washer arrive, I will swap out the dummy bearing, and worn out washer, and install the new shielded bearing with the soon to be restored transfer case.

I will next drag out the transfer case to overhaul !

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Everything you said makes sense Ray! I think you're on the way to a well-functioning and long lasting T84! Be sure to verify everything after the new parts are installed as sometimes the parts you used to set the dimensions are slightly different from the new parts you install later.

[70th Division]

Everything you said makes sense Ray! I think you're on the way to a well-functioning and long lasting T84! Be sure to verify everything after the new parts are installed as sometimes the parts you used to set the dimensions are slightly different from the new parts you install later.

That is great to hear Jeff !!
If this is how to rebuild the T-84, it is great fun and very straight forward !
I will recheck everything when the new parts arrive.
Fortunately the gear is nos, so should be a perfect match for the one I am using, and will spec out the new washer.
If all checks out with the new parts, then I will install the shift rails and shift forks and button it up.

I will next start on the transfercase rebuild !

Thanks for all the help !!

Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

If you truly liked doing the T84 then you will find working on the model 18 transfer case very rewarding. There are a few things you need to know going in, like the situation with the T84, but I think working on the transfer case is even more straightforward than the transmission.

[70th Division]

If you truly liked doing the T84 then you will find working on the model 18 transfer case very rewarding. There are a few things you need to know going in, like the situation with the T84, but I think working on the transfer case is even more straightforward than the transmission.

Hello Jeff,

I do truly like rebuilding the T-84, it has been great learning how to do yet another item on our jeeps, and I have many more to do for other jeeps.
I have a French return MB, that has it's transmission frozen solid, so now I know how to rebuild it, when I get that jeep unblocked from the jeep barn, I can rebuild it, and that jeep is pretty complete and I have no doubt the French rebuilt engine will start right up.
Scout Pilot has already rebuilt the French Military Solex carb they put on the MB engine.

I am greatly looking forward to restoring the transfer case now for this project, since once the transmission and transfer are restored and put together, they will just be waiting on the engine to return.
Once I get all 3 bolted together and aligned, the entire power plant can be placed into the restored frame.
Then the jeep can be quickly be assembled from the restored parts, with only the body needing blasting and paint as of now.

It should all come together quick as productivity increases and this jeep gets restored and completed, then the Willys MB project following the schedule right behind it

Then when these are both done, I will roll 2 more jeeps out to start over and restore them !!!
Knowing how to do things will really speed things up, and I am looking forward to learning how to do the ring and pinions on the MB !

Once the parts arrive, I will finish assembling the T-84, and get all the small items added like the rails, forks, etc.
Do you use sealant under the front gasket ?

The gasket I got from Ron is silver, almost like waxed plastic or whatever material it is, he said these JMP gaskets are the way to go, no issues.


I am missing the F script bolts, so may order some from Ron, I do have some that were ordered some time ago, just need to find them.

During the pandemic I ordered all sorts of bolt sets from JMP in England, but they sent them in unmarked bags, inside of another bag, so I have no idea what is what , so will have to start comparing to find what is needed.
May be best to order some fresh ones from Ron.

Were the Ford T-84 assembled with F script bolts, or plain head bolts ?


Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Yes! After you start the assembly process you will find that you will have less room to work with as you unpack and spread everything out to find what you need.....then, as it gets assembled, the space will return...if you put the 'not-needed-until-next-time" stuff away neatly! Don't question my experience on this one! What a mess I have right now...with less stuff tucked away! (and empty shelves and stuff spread out all over the storage area!)

Unless the gasket manufacturer states otherwise, I use the Permatex non-hardening 2B sealant on all my antique vehicle gaskets. I may revisit that practice as I have a pesky oilpan leak on this GPW where it meets the timing cover. 2nd gasket, still leaks. Too big to ignore (IMO) so I have to do something. The good news is that I can do it whenever I want, rather than be forced to do it now becuase access isn't hampered by the state of the vehicle assembly. The fuel pump pivot leak on the other hand was much easier to fix before I installed the fender.

IIRC all of the T84 bolts I encountered were plain or had the Willys marks (EC I think) on them. The only bolts I can think of are the three on the front bearing retainer and the four on the top cover. I don't recall any F-marked T-84 bolts., but I think I had some F-marked bolts on the transfer case, but only on the oil pan, where they all were F-marked on one case and another had a bunch of R-marked (or is it RC?, the same as the GPW steering tie rod clamp bolt markings). Any place that uses a fastener that is also used somewhere else, could have been replaced with "parts is parts" bolts in the preceeding decades... 

[70th Division]

If you truly liked doing the T84 then you will find working on the model 18 transfer case very rewarding. There are a few things you need to know going in, like the situation with the T84, but I think working on the transfer case is even more straightforward than the transmission.

Hello Jeff,

I have the Ford transfer case pulled and ready to work on it,
and will need this case overhauled and ready to go, once the new gear gets here, to mate this with the rebuilt T-84.

I guess the first thing to ask is how to remove this nut ?
I shifted the levers and got it and the front yoke locked together.
It clearly has a lot of torque on it , and my plan is to put a big wrench on the yoke end, and turn this off.
I removed the cotter pin, but it appears that I will need a second person to hold the big wrench to keep the shaft from turning, while I turn the nut off.


I will get on youtube to watch some videos on this case.

Nice F markings and F script bolts on the access cover.


Best Regards,
Ray

[JAB]

Nice case! I hope the inside is as good as the outside....unlike one of mine!

I have suffered with arthritis in my hands and knuckles for years. Last year I started having neuropathy issues and now trigger finger in my two middle fingers. I have a hard time making a fist this year. Prior to this I had incredible hand strength and grip. Why am I saying this? I have learned, by necessity, that if I want to keep active in this hobby I need to compensate for these new infirmities. I wouldn't hesitate one second to use my impact wrench on that nut. Chances are, just holding the drum is adequate to keep it all from spinning. Work smarter, not harder. Old age...better than the alternative!

[70th Division]

Nice case! I hope the inside is as good as the outside....unlike one of mine!

I have suffered with arthritis in my hands and knuckles for years. Last year I started having neuropathy issues and now trigger finger in my two middle fingers. I have a hard time making a fist this year. Prior to this I had incredible hand strength and grip. Why am I saying this? I have learned, by necessity, that if I want to keep active in this hobby I need to compensate for these new infirmities. I wouldn't hesitate one second to use my impact wrench on that nut. Chances are, just holding the drum is adequate to keep it all from spinning. Work smarter, not harder. Old age...better than the alternative!

Thanks Jeff !

I hope you hands get better, it is no fun when issues like that come along, there may be a procedure to fix the trigger finger issues ?

Big 10-4 on the impact wrench idea !

The case hopefully is good, it looks ok, that gear I am using to set up the T84 came out of it, the gear teeth look great, it just was not tightened
down properly with the good torque setting.
This will be fun rebuilding, and most importantly learning how to do it !!
I greatly appreciate your expert help on these areas that are new to me !
Thanks so much !

The machine shop just called and told me the threads are repaired !
I will go get tomorrow, he said they only needed to replace 3 threads with time serts, all the others checked out good.
The valve guides are in, and the seats matched to the new valves.

The Jeep is coming together now !!


Best Regards,
Ray

[Raflad]

Great job on the trans rebuild Ray. I'm sure you'll breeze through the transfer case. Looking forward to the posts.

[70th Division]

Great job on the trans rebuild Ray. I'm sure you'll breeze through the transfer case. Looking forward to the posts.

Thanks Adam !!!
It is great fun and learning how to do these items is great !!!

I look forward to doing the transfer case, and later to the other jeep's ring and pinion sets, with your loaner bearings !!

The more we learn, the better we are going forward with the projects and future projects !!

I will post the transfer case rebuild as I go along and discover how to rebuild it too.

Best Regards,
Ray

[Raflad]

Isn't it great. When I started my T-84 rebuild I was pretty nervous having never done anything like that before. But as soon as I finished I wanted to do another one. The same with the differentials. A great hobby!

[70th Division]

Isn't it great. When I started my T-84 rebuild I was pretty nervous having never done anything like that before. But as soon as I finished I wanted to do another one. The same with the differentials. A great hobby!

Absolutely Adam !!
Plus we can use these new skills working on different vehicles like Dodges and GMC CCKWs.
When we learn new skills we retain them and can do more things toward our goals !

It is awesome, especially with all the help from people here on the G503 !!

Outstanding !!

Let me also say , if I can rebuild the transmission, anybody can !!

Best Regards,
Ray