Ok I think I have got this syncro setting method handled !
I found that the fixed gap on the second gear syncro is the exact width of a circlip that I got from Ron.
So with that in mind, I used the circlip in the front gap on the third gear, and added a shim to match the extra amount of the gap.
1 thick shim plus the circlip filled it in to a perfect fit.
Next, I carefully removed the nut of the rear, I took the t case piece off the rear of the case, removed the dummy bearing, carefully, holding tight the assembly from moving, as we dont want to screw up the synco dogs if it slides out of position and out too far, and added another thick shim.
I had earlier put a thick shim on before torqueing , so now there are 2 thick shims.
This set the forward syncro gap when tightened back down at 80 pounds to matching the fixed gap on second gear.
The natural fixed gap, with a circlip fitting with very slight resistance .
The forward third gear syncro, with the circlip fit into the gap with very slight resistance.
These are both gapped exactly the same now , thanks to the use of 2 shims.
Now to figure how to calculate the end play of the main shaft.
I assume that the "main shaft" is the main shaft with first and second gear slid onto it, and not the front shaft with the front bearing and third gear attached.
If that is the correct method, I put the dial indicator on the top of the case, and the indicator on the big transfer case gear, and levered the second gear forward, and then set the indicator gauge at at zero, then levered it towards the rear to see what it reads.
Here are the results :
Pushed rearward with the prybar.
Pushed max effort to the rear with the prybar.
Is this a good endplay reading ?
Is this the correct method to measure endplay ?
The syncro rings now have matched gaps, and the end play, like doing an engine crank endplay reading, reads .002 to .003.
What do you think ??
There is not much out there explaining how to do this, so I hope this is correct
Also I want to point out to other G members that will rebuild their T84's, I turned the shaft to get the cotter pin hole for the mainshaft nut to straight up and down, this will make life easy when torquing the nut on to know where the hole is, when setting to your desired torque setting.
This is almost perfectly aligned for a cotter pin at 80 pounds, and I believe when I torque it to between 100 to 120 pounds it will still be aligned, as it has space to go to become better aligned to the cotter pin hole.
Once the new gear and washer arrive, I will swap out the dummy bearing, and worn out washer, and install the new shielded bearing with the soon to be restored transfer case.
I will next drag out the transfer case to overhaul