42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

If you have an unrestored WWII jeep, we would like to see pictures, and hear your comments. NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
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1942 Ford GPW 352nd
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:45 am

Continued work on the front and rear axles in hopes of getting them primed and painted early next week. As my rear axle was leaking a significant amount of oil, I discovered a different nut was used, as opposed to the 1-1/4" castellated nut used on my front axle. Apparently Bubba used a 1-1/8" nut (non-castellated) and found that the head of the Gear set had been stripped. :shock:
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striped.jpg
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I will chase the gear set, but based upon the available thread, thinking that it should be replaced. I don't have the tools nor expertise to replace it, but would appreciate any suggestions/recommendations on how best to proceed. I also purchased replacement (double-lip) pinion seals from Ron and it looks like the rear axle that was leaking had used a different pinion seal. Not sure if it to is the correct seal, but wondering if it was part of the problem for the leaking seal. Also, noticed wear on the front and rear yoke assay, but would also like to get feedback on if both need to be replaced due to wear around the neck.
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seal.jpg
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2222.jpg
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rear.jpg
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by JAB » Sun Jan 19, 2020 8:58 pm

Nice jeep project!

Those yokes will leak, especially the top one, unless the new seal rides on a slightly different area...yes, over the years some seals did vary slightly by brand and would "ride" in slightly different places on the yoke. More modern seals seem to be pretty standard though so it depends what was there. I just "did" a pair of differentials and thought the yokes were good to go as they both looked slightly better than the one in your bottom picture. Sadly, a day or so after completing the first one it started to leak. I removed the yoke and placed a 0.030" outer pinion shim (after trimming the OD to fit through the seal) and re-installed the yoke. This re-positioned the sealing surface of the yoke 0.030" "out" (slightly less than the thickness of your thumbnail) without affecting the pinion depth, allowing the seal to ride on a new surface. I saved a new seal (removing them destroys them) and re-used an original Ford yoke, but if it leaks in service later I'll have to replace the yoke and seal and remove the shim. In short, I placed a thin washer between the yoke and oil slinger. And yes, you should replace the nut with a castle nut and cotter pin.
-Jeff

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:53 pm

Thanks JAB! Greatly appreciate your recommendations and shared experiences. I noticed the yokes are on back-order at RFP, but will wait and hopefully they will arrive shortly.

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by IRQVET » Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:00 pm

Looking forward to this build. Seems like a nice rig to start with.
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Fri Mar 06, 2020 12:32 pm

Thanks IRQVET for the reply!

Well, I made some progress despite the cold and snowy weather. Decided to attack refinishing the front & rear axles along with refinishing the smaller parts. Unfortunately, I had to do some "re-work" as I decided to use a phosphoric acid cleaner after striping the parts, but later found out that the 2-part epoxy that I was about to use, indicated that use of a phosphoric acid cleaner will likely result in primer flaking or peeling off the parts. :oops:

So, I had to use the wire-wheel once again to get the parts down to the bare metal. Despite the re-work, I am overall pleased with the results.
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Rear Axle Acid.jpg
Prime Parts.jpg
Finished Parts.jpg
Finished Axle 1.jpg
Front Axle Finished 2.jpg

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Fri Mar 06, 2020 12:37 pm

Noticed the outer axle seal had to be replaced. Still had the original F-marked seal (located on the right). I purchased new seals from Ron and they appear to be of a different design. The old seal was severely worn, but hope the new seals will work just fine.
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Outer Axle Seal.jpg
Outer Axle Seal 2.jpg

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Fri Mar 06, 2020 12:46 pm

I also had time to clean-up the transmission. It feels great to restore a fine piece of history! Unfortunately, the transmission and transfer case rebuild are outside of my skills & experience. I live in western new york, and it sure would be great if I could get some suggestions on credible and reputable service mechanics that would be able to inspect both units and make any necessary repairs. Sure would be great to leverage some expert advice from the folks on the "G" - does anyone have any suggestions on credible/reputable mechanics in the North East?
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Trans Unfinished.jpg
Transm 1.jpg
Finished Transm 1.jpg
Finished Trans 2.jpg

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Fri Mar 06, 2020 7:58 pm

Work continues on the front axle and on the knuckle. I started to assemble the arm, but ran into a snag. All the mating surfaces have been cleaned and I checked each tapered stud to ensure that it would fit easily into the arm hole prior to the final assembly. However, after I fit all 4 studs into the knuckle, the arm seems to get stuck at about 1/4" preventing it from butting-up to the knuckle surface. I removed 2 of the tapered studs, but the arm still will not seat properly. All 4 studs seems straight and aligned. I believe these tapered studs should be used to secure the arm to the knuckle and I ran into difficulty removing them after I started the disassembly. Is this difficulty common? Wondering if I need to ream all 4 holes of the arm, but I don't think it will help as the arm gets really stuck at this point. It fits easily into the knuckle without the studs.
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stud.jpg
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by JAB » Sat Mar 07, 2020 5:42 am

No, don't ream it! It's supposed to be tight. A lot of folks don't know that and replace them with standard studs and they get loose and cause issues in service. As long as the holes are clean and the studs in the proper locations you're good to go.
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Mon Mar 09, 2020 12:10 pm

Thanks JAB as I took your advice!

The 4 studs on the lower cap went on easily and the cap had a snug fit for the L and R housing. For securing the arm, I had to play around with finding the best tapered stud location so that the knuckle arm would slide past the studs. I plan to install the shims (not to exceed 0.048 in.) tonight on the spindle cap and spindle arm. I've seen previous notes on the G where some individuals desire to have their Spindle Housing so that the tension is within 4-6 lbs (per the TM), where as others target 12-16 lbs before installing the housing seals.

I will likely follow the TM, but does anyone have any strong feelings/comments as to why the spindle housing arm tension should exceed the TM's recommendations of 4-6 lbs?

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by JAB » Mon Mar 09, 2020 4:15 pm

On stuff like this I follow the manual and prove it with measuring tools. I've been doing this as long as anybody and can predict "by feel" when it will pass, yet I verify with a suitable tool. "Trust, but verify". The different specs you hear could be due to different length arms on the CJ vs the MB/GPW or early vs later after issues were reported in service and specs were updated. All flat fender jeeps are similar, but not the same. Sometimes we need to use the CJ manual when the MB/GPW manual doesn't list a spec, but we still need to verify that they are indeed similar enough to do that. The pinion nut torque spec comes to mind, although somebody here did find it somewhere in a military manual, just not the manuals we're used to using.
-Jeff

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by twinflyer17 » Thu Mar 12, 2020 12:24 pm

Lookin' good, Todd!
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by vajeepin » Sat Apr 11, 2020 7:23 am

Great build so far. Looking forward to seeing more progress. Would be interested to know if you have reinstalled your cross members yet and how you tackled the rivets. I'm about to remove my front member to replace both frame horns and have some reservations about reinstalling it. Keep up the good work.
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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:52 am

Thanks Sean and Vajeepin for your feedback! Vajeepin - I was planning on tackling the frame last fall, however my brother (mechanic that continues to run my dad's autobody business) had pointed-out that my frame is also slightly twisted and unfortunately, we were not able to straighten it due to his limited availability. In addition to the jeep taking a hit head on and bending the frame horns, the jeep also took a slight hit inward by the clutch and master cylinder. He straightens automotive frames and I am hopeful he will be able to assist me next month. :P

I was planning to install the MD repo rear cross member as I received it with the jeep purchase, however since this time, I was able to secure a GPW rear cross member that was removed from another damaged frame. The MD repo would work but would require some modifications. Once the frame is straightened back to original specs, I will install the cross member using the mullins rivets. I found them searching the G503 site as many guys have had good luck with them - they appear to be easy to install and look amazing when finished.

Progress has not slowed down as I just shifted to working on restoring the other parts in preparation towards getting the frame repairs completed. I have been spending a fair amount of time lately priming and painting small parts.
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Garage Parts Painted.jpg
Epoxy Paint.jpg

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Re: 42 GPW Script 26708 Restoration

Post by 1942 Ford GPW 352nd » Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:59 am

Decided to stop in and see my cousin as I haven't seen him in years. He runs a successful business making and restoring signs but he can make just about anything. After catching-up on old times, I showed him my wooden insert that was purchased from RFP. These bumpers from Ron are amazing! I told him that it would be neat if I could get the F-stamp in my wooden bumper. Well, his machine was able to burn the F-stamp in less than 30 seconds and a total of 5 min of work. I am pleased with the results! :D
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F stamp creation.jpg
F stamp back log.jpg
F stamp front log.jpg

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