Restoring GPW 14518

Feb, 1942 - GPW1 thru end of first contract, April, 1942 - GPW15000 NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 70th Division » Mon Aug 09, 2021 2:15 pm

Hello Oz,

Great update !!
Outstanding works, a great website as well documenting your restorations !!

Keep up your good work !

Best Regards,
Ray


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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Mon Aug 09, 2021 3:30 pm

Ray,
Thanks for the comments. I find it easier to make changes and updates as well as link all of the projects together. It was a pain trying to double post on the G and on my site.
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Sep 25, 2021 7:37 am

After a few more months of work, I finally have the engine installed. I elected to leave the accesories off and wi install them with the engine on the frame. I've detailed my latest work on the restoration site below. Just clic on the ENGINE block on the right side. Other sections are updated as well. You wi notice the uninished cyinder head sitting on top. The original one is at the machine shop getting a "light skim". I needed that to attack my chain hoist device. The images were taken before everything was torqued down.

http://gpw.castraponere.com/index.php/gpw-14518/
install engine2.JPG
install engine1.JPG
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 70th Division » Sat Oct 02, 2021 6:40 pm

Hello,

Great work Oz,

She is really coming along.
I will spend more time on your website when I get the chance.
It is great, and I was looking at the frame repair section today.
Very helpful, as I am restoring my frame right now.

Stay Well !!!
Keep up your Good Works !!

Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Sun Oct 03, 2021 1:46 pm

Thanks Ray. Im working on the radiator now. Spent 2 hours straightening fins. WIll take that to a shop for a pressure test and cleaning, then some OD. Getting closer to a first start. Can't wait.
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 70th Division » Fri Oct 08, 2021 10:47 am

Hello Oz,


That will be a very exciting event to get it running again !!

I am looking forward to your update on that !!!

I hope to get to my engine soon after I get the frame completed, blasted, primed, and painted.

I am getting closer everyday .

Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by kmccarthy16 » Sat Oct 16, 2021 2:44 pm

Looking great!
1942 Ford GPW
DOD 3-19-42
SN 8053

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Fri Oct 22, 2021 4:31 pm

Thank you for the comments. The first start was not without some challenges.

1. No fuel was getting to the bowl using the manual priming lever on the JMP fuel pump. I spotted a small leak at one of the fuel line fittings that had not been tightened down properly. Air in the line prevented it from being pumped to the bowl. Problem fixed, nice squirts in the carb throat when depressing the pedal lever.

2. Would not start at all, just rotation of the starter and engine. At least the starter is working and the battery is minding well. Numerous cranks with no luck.

a. I reset the flywheel to TD with the No. 1 cyl at TDC. I checked the rotor under the cap at about 5:30 position.
b. I retraced all of the plug wires from the 5:30 position being No. 1 cylinder and then counterclockwise from 1 to 3 to 4 and then 2. I checked the cap and rotor to ensure no cracks or corrosion and all plug leads connected properly.
c. I checked the points gap at 0.020" and rotated the dizzy clockwise until the points opened, and then clockwise slightly until they began to close. I tightened the dizzy clamp down slightly.
d. I removed the HT line from the top of the coil, and with the ignition switch on I placed it near a bolt on the block while cranking and observed a nice blue spark. I have a good coil and spark coming to the dizzy (previously tested primary at 1.3 ohms and secondary at 88k ohms).
e. I reconnected the HT lead and took out the 4 spark plugs and attached them to the spark wires. Again with the ignition on I cranked and individually checked the spark from each plug against the block. 4 x blue flames. Spark plugs reinserted. At this point I am convinced that I have good spark going to each cylinder in the correct fashion.

3. Cranked again with no luck. I decided to remove the cap on the dizzy and observe the rotor while cranking, ignition off. The rotor was not moving.

4. I discovered that the spring clip was not properly allowing the dizzy shaft to seat in the oil pump slot and was essentially not rotating. I removed the spring for now, reset everything and voila, she fired up. I will have to research why this is despite having lightly filed the clips corners down. SOmething is preventing the dizzy from fully seating into the slot when the clip is attached. I will not leave it out and will try and find why this is.

Problems to address.

1. Oil leak between the block and oil pump. WIll drain and remove the oil pump and install new gasket with better sealer and instead of using studs and nuts, will go with bolts and lock washers.

2. Engine was running rough initially. The dizzy was rotating from the original position as the engine ran. When I returned it to original setting, it ran much more smoothly. I tightened down the dizzy clamp a bit more, but loose enough so I can make small adjustments later.

3.Very minor seeping from one of the water elbow bolts. I think that will seal itself in a few hours of run time.

Little Victories to savor.

1. Its alive!

2. The oil pressure was 42 at idle and 60 at higher RPM. For the 5 minutes the engine ran it never dipped below 40. This is with an original GPW pump, restored with a NOS pump rebuild kit. Yes it can be done Virginia.

3. I watched the engine temperature approach and never get above 160. It was cold outside.

4. I was able to give all 15 cylinder stud nuts and bolts a re-torque while the engine was hot. I am amazed at how the heat makes them seem loose. Felt like back to 55 ft-lbs or so.

5. So far the rear main seal is not leaking, but I will investigate later. No other engine leaks.

6. All indications of strong flow of electrons through all of the components and bonding points.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpgeB02tflk
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Tue Oct 26, 2021 5:25 am

Now that I have the oil pump leak fixed, I can focus on tuning the engine. I have connected my vaccum gauge back up along with a digital dwell and tach. Here is the 2nd start video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUQrVl44pJA

I used the following G503 Thread to get these steps:

viewtopic.php?t=247709


1. Connect the vacuum gauge to an inlet vacuum source
2. Set Points Gap to 0.020"
3. Set timing to 5 degrees BTDC (IGN Mark)
4. Verify the rotor at the 5:30 position.
5. Slightly loosen dizzy clamp and remove rotor cap
6. Turn dizzy case by hand CCW until points are in contact with one another.
7. Turn ignition switch on
8. Turn dizzy case slightly by hand CW until the points just open and then spark. This is the exact point of ignition you want for a good starting point.
9. Tighten the dizzy clamp so it does not migrate while running, but loose enough to turn when adjusting things.
10. If not already adjusted, set the Idle Mixture Screw all the way in and then back out exactly 1 1/2 turns.
11. Start the motor.
12. Adjust the idle mixture screw out (enriching) or in (leaning) to get the highest vacuum reading, (should be between 18-21, -1" per 1000' elevation above sea level with a rebuilt, or healthy motor). No more than 1/4 turn max either way.
13. Adjust the dizzy case slightly CW and CCW until the highest vacuum reading is obtained.
14. Retard the dizzy slightly (CCW) until the vacuum reads about 1/2" less.
15. Tighten the dizzy clamp fully.
Dizzy Timing Adjustment.jpg
I started the engine for the second time. It started relatively quickly on the static timing setting as described above. The oil leak at the pump gasket is remedied. Here is what I learned from attempting to adjust the timing.

1. My carb was set up by the rebuilder Scoutpilot, so I made no adjustments to it. I will try that on the third start. making sure to mark the starting point. BTW, the carb works flawlessly. I am glad I used his serivces.
2. I checked the dwell using my digital gauge. It varied from 39.9 to 40.9. L-134 Dwell is supposed to be 42 degrees. I'm close. Dwell is affected by how long the points are closed allowing the coil to charge. Since 0.020" feeler gauge gave me 40-ish, I do not think I can adjust 2 degrees. That would be such an imperceptable movement I think. I need a very slight adjustment closer. Essentially:

CLOSING THE GAP = LARGER DWELL
OPENING THE GAP = SMALLER DWELL


3. Vacuum reading at idle was approximately 17" at 1000'MSL (- 1" per 1000' elevation gain). Normal reading at my elevation should be 17-20". I am at the bottom of the reading, but in the acceptable range. I noticed when I rebuilt my WC12 4 years ago, the best vacuum I achieved was the same low reading adjusted for elevation. Perhaps I have a faulty vacuumgauge or I cannot properly seal an engine. Seems 2" low or I need to check for minor leaks with starter fluid at the carb and manifold gaskets.
4. There is a steady fluctuation of about 1/2" which I understand is within the normal range. Under ideal conditions, the gauge should be steady. That indicates that each cylinder is 100% sealed equally and there is no change of vacuum between each cylinder due to valve seat variations, wear in the guides or leaks in the head gasket. One thing I did not do was lap the seats of all 8 valves. I relied on the previous rebuild 18 years ago. The engine was nearly flawless and all cyl;inders were clean with hardly any carb deposits. It was soot that wiped off easily. Its just the dang thing was bored to 0.080" over and I did not like that. I took it to back standard.
5. After adjusting the dizzy case I ended up having the timing so advanced that it did not want to start. I returned it to the IGN location that I had before adjusting the case with just a bit of advacned timing to ease the start.
6. To help knowing where the starting point was I used a Sharpie pen and made a few marks on the block by the oiler so I could reference them as advanced or retarded from the starting point. A pointer on the case above the clamp would be ideal, but this works well enough to see the change.

I'll fiddle with this some more to get a feel for the sounds the engine makes when adjusting. I will also order an analog rpm gauge as my cheapie digital one requires some archaine conversion such as 12 x frequency divided by number of cylinder x phi blah blah.

There are more details on the engine rebuilding process on my restoration site link below.
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 70th Division » Sat Nov 13, 2021 6:56 pm

Hello Oz,


Outstanding information you have posted , thanks for your efforts !!

I also want to thank you again for the great Dodge parts that you held so long for me !!

They are in my jeep barn now 😁😁

My jeep project is coming along a little everyday .

Keep 'em Rolling !!!

Best Regards,
Ray

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Sun Nov 14, 2021 9:38 am

Ray,
I am glad you are pleased with the parts. I know you will put them to great use. Thanks for the comments. I'm working on the firewall now. It was a pain sorting out all of the holes so I put this together. It is color coded by types of mounting holes to make life easier for me and others I hope.
firewall hole locations.png
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 70th Division » Sun Nov 14, 2021 11:05 am

Hello Ozzy ,

What an outstanding document right there !!!
Beautiful !
I will be using it very soon as well, Thanks for your efforts in creating this important learning document for all the future Jeep restorers .

Well done !!


Best Wishes,
Ray

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17thAirborne
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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Mon Nov 22, 2021 2:21 pm

There is a write up here on how to mount a tub to the frame by yourself.

http://gpw.castraponere.com/index.php/g ... fl_builder
mount 2.JPG
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by Klaas » Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:25 am

17thAirborne wrote:
Mon Nov 22, 2021 2:21 pm
There is a write up here on how to mount a tub to the frame by yourself.

http://gpw.castraponere.com/index.php/g ... fl_builder

mount 2.JPG
Hi OZ. Great write-up. I notice that in one of the pictures (named mount 3) I can see that your rear drive shaft is the "fat" type. AFAIK those were only used on MB slat grilles .
Klaas
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BSA Airborne Bicycle R49171 - 1944

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17thAirborne
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Re: Restoring GPW 14518

Post by 17thAirborne » Wed Nov 24, 2021 4:17 am

Klaas wrote:
Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:25 am

Hi OZ. Great write-up. I notice that in one of the pictures (named mount 3) I can see that your rear drive shaft is the "fat" type. AFAIK those were only used on MB slat grilles .
Hello Klaas,
Thanks for reviewing my post. This GPW was going to be a 17th A/B jeep and as a joke to the "Fat Driveshaft" discussion, I installed it with a stencil pained on the shaft stating "Borrowed from 101sr Airborne" 😂
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)


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