Brake pedal travel
Moderator: Kurt Lesser
- dilvoy
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 6185
- Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:28 pm
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
brake peedal travel
NF6X, If you set up the switch tight and introduce some slop into the system for actuating the light switch by enlarging the holes that the switch actuating rod goes through you might be able to solve your problem. I would play with the hole on the switch itself first, since if it is weakened it is not a saftey issue.
George D. Paxinos
M998
M1123A2
M998
M1123A2
- nf6x
- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 10:57 pm
- Location: Riverside, CA
- Contact:
- dilvoy
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 6185
- Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:28 pm
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
brake pedal travel
the result of the added slop can be different depending which direction the slop is increased. There is also something to consider other than just sliding the switch front to back on it's bracket, that is just one diemesion of movement. The lever on the switch is at a certain position in relation to the brake pedal arm and possibly bending the little link rod between them may do the desired trick. I would think that AMG did the research on the pivot angles of the brake pedal arm and the brake light switch lever, but maybe some vehicles have a bracket that is off position and things are just out of spec enough to give some vehicles problems. I guess I'm lucky that my brake lights worked well.
George D. Paxinos
M998
M1123A2
M998
M1123A2
- dunsbr
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
I'm lucky as I got to choose where the hole went into the brake pedal lever as part of the RHD conversion.
I can actually very gently stop my truck without the brake lights coming on. So one day I need to adjust my system to take this "slack" out.
Here's some pic's of the mods I did to the brake system when doing my RHD conversion:
This shows the fastening of the adjustable rod end to the lever that operates the Hydra boost.
These show the adjustable link going from the Hydra boost lever to the leverarm on the brake rod that crosses the vehicle to the RHS.
This shows the seal where the brake rod goes through the firewall beside the doghouse.
If you look carefully amongst the ratsnest of wires you can see the bearing block that supports the brake rod, the brake lever return spring and up top the collar that the new RHD brake pedal arm is welded to.
I hope this is of some interest
Cheers
I can actually very gently stop my truck without the brake lights coming on. So one day I need to adjust my system to take this "slack" out.
Here's some pic's of the mods I did to the brake system when doing my RHD conversion:
This shows the fastening of the adjustable rod end to the lever that operates the Hydra boost.
These show the adjustable link going from the Hydra boost lever to the leverarm on the brake rod that crosses the vehicle to the RHS.
This shows the seal where the brake rod goes through the firewall beside the doghouse.
If you look carefully amongst the ratsnest of wires you can see the bearing block that supports the brake rod, the brake lever return spring and up top the collar that the new RHD brake pedal arm is welded to.
I hope this is of some interest
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
- dilvoy
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 6185
- Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:28 pm
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
brake pedal travel
Brad, That looks like you made a very strong brake lever assy. Did you keep the lever arm ratio the same for both sides? Are you using the stock setup for the brake light switch and if so, do you think that if you shimmed the front of the light switch downward a bit, It might actually increase the actual swing distance for a given movement of the brake pedal assy? Perhaps shimming the whole brake light switch downwards as well as changing the incidence might create the, I think needed, increase in swing of the brake light switch to stop Kurts and nf6x's problem?
George D. Paxinos
M998
M1123A2
M998
M1123A2
- dunsbr
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
Hi George,
I designed the system to take the torque applied in a panic"spike" stop.
i.e when things go wrong and you stamp on the brake with 2,000 Newtons nothing bends.
So yes it's strong.
Lever ratio is the same on the linkage side (original drivers side) between the original Humvee lever and the lever that goes onto the cross vehicle rod.
But the length of the pedal arm is longer on the new drivers side.
This was driven by the geometry of getting the rod over the top of the engine to the RHS of the truck.
The effect of this is I have slightly longer pedal travel than a LHD Humvee.
I actually think I get a more progressive pedal feel because of this.
Another advantage is that by having the two rod ends on the shaft on the passengers side you can adjust th brake pedal height over on the RHS!
Cheers
I designed the system to take the torque applied in a panic"spike" stop.
i.e when things go wrong and you stamp on the brake with 2,000 Newtons nothing bends.
So yes it's strong.
Lever ratio is the same on the linkage side (original drivers side) between the original Humvee lever and the lever that goes onto the cross vehicle rod.
But the length of the pedal arm is longer on the new drivers side.
This was driven by the geometry of getting the rod over the top of the engine to the RHS of the truck.
The effect of this is I have slightly longer pedal travel than a LHD Humvee.
I actually think I get a more progressive pedal feel because of this.
Another advantage is that by having the two rod ends on the shaft on the passengers side you can adjust th brake pedal height over on the RHS!
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
- nf6x
- G-Sergeant Major
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 10:57 pm
- Location: Riverside, CA
- Contact:
That's a nice feature. The regular brake pedal isn't in a good position for me, and my leg cramps up pretty fast if I need to use it constantly in stop-and-go traffic. I wish the seat slid back farther, and I'm not even over 6' tall.dunsbr wrote:Another advantage is that by having the two rod ends on the shaft on the passengers side you can adjust th brake pedal height over on the RHS!
Cheers
- dunsbr
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
I'm 6'4" and 240lbs so the seat HAD to go back!nf6x wrote:That's a nice feature. The regular brake pedal isn't in a good position for me, and my leg cramps up pretty fast if I need to use it constantly in stop-and-go traffic. I wish the seat slid back farther, and I'm not even over 6' tall.dunsbr wrote:Another advantage is that by having the two rod ends on the shaft on the passengers side you can adjust th brake pedal height over on the RHS!
Cheers
So I removed the cross braces and put a pilar base brace and a new crossmember under the floor to take its place.
This means my seat can go back far enough to be comfortable!
Did I mention thatI put 8way electric seats in the truck?
(they are trimmed in canvas though!)
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
-
- G-Corporal
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2018 2:58 pm
- Location: Indianapolis
Re: Brake pedal travel
Just found this with google and I have the same problem.
Did anyone find a solution for that? My pedal travel is only about half a inch.
Did anyone find a solution for that? My pedal travel is only about half a inch.
- 86humv
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2754
- Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 11:54 am
- Location: Texas
Re: Brake pedal travel
12 year old post.
Just explain whats wrong and if you replaced anything yet.
86 Hmmwv
Lots A parts
M101A2 trailer
M1102 trailer
Lots A parts
M101A2 trailer
M1102 trailer
-
- G-Corporal
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2018 2:58 pm
- Location: Indianapolis
Re: Brake pedal travel
Hi,
I have the same problem like the thread starter.
I barely have to touch my brake pedal until I get full brake force. The travel is maybe half of an inch or less.
The brakes working fine it's just hartd to control and I hope there is a way to adjust that.
I did not replace anything until now because it is working but just hard to control.
Thanks
I have the same problem like the thread starter.
I barely have to touch my brake pedal until I get full brake force. The travel is maybe half of an inch or less.
The brakes working fine it's just hartd to control and I hope there is a way to adjust that.
I did not replace anything until now because it is working but just hard to control.
Thanks
- dilvoy
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 6185
- Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:28 pm
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
Re: Brake pedal travel
Frost0071 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:39 amHi,
I have the same problem like the thread starter.
I barley have to touch my brake pedal until I get full brake force. The travel is maybe half of an inch or less.
The brakes at working fine it's just hart to control and I hope there is a way to adjust that.
I did not replace anything until now because it is working but just hard to control.
Thanks
With the vehicle not running, does the brake pedal have the spongy feel that it should have? If not, your hydroboost is probably the culprit. The nitrogen has probably escaped it's chamber and you are working with a non softened boost condition.
George D. Paxinos
M998
M1123A2
M998
M1123A2
-
- G-Corporal
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2018 2:58 pm
- Location: Indianapolis
Re: Brake pedal travel
It doesn't matter if the vehicle is running or not the pedal doesn't change his travel way or feeling.
Ok so change my hydroboost and this should fix my problem?
But which one do I need? And can I also get it new at a auto part store?
I have a 1987 M1038 and this is how my hydroboost looks like. I hope this helps
Thank you
Ok so change my hydroboost and this should fix my problem?
But which one do I need? And can I also get it new at a auto part store?
I have a 1987 M1038 and this is how my hydroboost looks like. I hope this helps
Thank you
- Retired War Horses
- G-Brigadier General
- Posts: 2445
- Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2004 9:45 am
- Location: Northern Calif
- Contact:
Re: Brake pedal travel
Your master cylinder is that of an A1/A2 truck and not an early A0, so this means your hydro booster is also not an A0.
That HB’s studs on the MC side are farther apart then on the 7700 GVW truck.
That HB’s studs on the MC side are farther apart then on the 7700 GVW truck.
Retired War Horses Restoration
Call us for all your HMMWV parts, service, upgrades and conversion needs.
Call us for all your HMMWV parts, service, upgrades and conversion needs.
- 86humv
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2754
- Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 11:54 am
- Location: Texas
Re: Brake pedal travel
I may have one, and I do have new M/C's like in the pic.
86 Hmmwv
Lots A parts
M101A2 trailer
M1102 trailer
Lots A parts
M101A2 trailer
M1102 trailer
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 38 guests