Zeph's Dodge WC52

[zepher11]

Realized I posted this on the wrong thread. Obviously, I need to stop posting if I can't get it straight:

Started the wiring harness install today. Not for the faint of heart. Lots of threading the thread through the needle so to speak. I wish I would have started this project before I put the front end back on, but at that time wasn't really thinking I'd be doing this. Almost pulled the fuel tank to run the wires. Plus there is no access hole in the bed for the fuel tank sending unit. I think I'm going to make one. I did manage to get the new harness with all the taillight connectors along the frame past the fuel tank and out the little hole in the rear frame cross member.

Then the real hard part was snaking the harness past the brake master cylinder along the frame. Wasn't very easy pulling the old harness out. Finally after many tries I got it through. Then DOH! I neglected to pass the harness through the middle cross frame hole along the frame. Almost cried. lol Had to pull it out and thread it through where I missed and then again around the master cylinder. Finally got it! That was tedious....

Really wished I had a lift that's for sure. I got her up pretty high on the jack stands which helped a lot. I can sit under there in certain areas:



One can see that the wiring isn't in the best of shape. Almost 80 years old, so I guess it held up pretty good. The wiring under the dash is even worse....and scary:





Spent some time cleaning the junction block. Pulled all the studs and blasted them. Then coated them in dielectric grease:



Hopefully, I can mop up the headlight wire routing tomorrow, and then move on to wiring the junction block and then the under dash harness.

[zepher11]

Didn't get much done today. Spent the bulk of the day trying to get the main harness to reach the brake switch, dimmer switch and reach the headlight junction blocks on the frame. Kept threading it differently through all the components, but it's tight under there with the master cylinder and steering box. I think I finally have it. Was pretty certain it wasn't going to fit, and was just about ready to start cutting and splicing wire.

Started the junction block wiring:





Now into the abyss..under the dash:



Under the dash will be a little rough to get under:





One can see the suspect wires and where the insulation is falling off:



Some more scary wiring:





I've had this extra switch and circuit breaker lying around for years. Now's a good time to use it:



I finally figured out how to pull this piece off from under the dash. I think it was a pump of some sort to push fuel for the arctic heater that Fred mentioned above. It had a line to the fuel filter. At least that's what I think it is:



Hoping to jump on the dash wiring early tomorrow. Last day in the 90's. Back over 100 degrees the next few days.

[70th Division]

Hello Zeph,


Excellent work !!
The wiring looks like a pretty intense job, especially under the dash !!

It is looking good so far
Did you have to remove the seats to get up under there ?

That device is a hand fuel primer !!
The exact one was used on the Weasel .
It uses a black knob on the end, about the size of the stick shift knob.


Also .......

I was wondering if you could determine something about your old wiring harness ?
On the exposed wiring , the cloth has crumbled away, but could you determine on the main taped up part of the harness , if the cloth insulation on the wires is still in good shape under the tape, or has it also deteriorated ?

The reason I ask is, I have an M38A1 that I am working on, and the exposed, untaped wires are bare in areas, but the main harness is taped up tight. I was thinking that I might be able to tape up the bare areas where the insulation has deteriorated , and repair the harness.

At least to be able to get it running.

Getting the truck elevated looks pretty cool !!
Just remember to also block it up with wood as a safety measure, because a lot of "modern" jack stands have failed, and or have been recalled. Especially from Harbor Freight, and others.

Thanks,
Ray

[W. Winget]

Fuel primer pump for cold weather ops. Factory Issued on Weasels and Generators, Weasel owners (I'm one) would love to have the old unit if your scrapping it, the Knobs are especially sought, as they typically get knocked around in weather/age. Yes it was part of the artic heater setup.

GREAT job your doing there!

My Brother and I realized there was no "assigned" wiring location on the studs coming through the dash, seems it's whatever the factory guy did matching up the wires on both sides as you have done then inserting it.
V/R W Winget

[zepher11]

Hello Zeph,


Excellent work !!
The wiring looks like a pretty intense job, especially under the dash !!

It is looking good so far
Did you have to remove the seats to get up under there ?

That device is a hand fuel primer !!
The exact one was used on the Weasel .
It uses a black knob on the end, about the size of the stick shift knob.


Also .......

I was wondering if you could determine something about your old wiring harness ?
On the exposed wiring , the cloth has crumbled away, but could you determine on the main taped up part of the harness , if the cloth insulation on the wires is still in good shape under the tape, or has it also deteriorated ?

The reason I ask is, I have an M38A1 that I am working on, and the exposed, untaped wires are bare in areas, but the main harness is taped up tight. I was thinking that I might be able to tape up the bare areas where the insulation has deteriorated , and repair the harness.

At least to be able to get it running.

Getting the truck elevated looks pretty cool !!
Just remember to also block it up with wood as a safety measure, because a lot of "modern" jack stands have failed, and or have been recalled. Especially from Harbor Freight, and others.

Thanks,
Ray

Hi Ray,

I'll check the wiring today under the tape. I haven't started pulling out the wire underneath yet, but will be today. I would think it would be in better shape, but this will provide the evidence.

That's good that the pump is identified. No pump handle or knob. It was tough to get off as it had a recessed plug in it and just that round brass ring on the dash side. Was tough to get a bite on it, but finally get her off!

These are some nice heavy duty aluminum jack stands I picked up from JEGS performance. Amazingly light. As I get older, looking for easier and lighter ways to do things. Lift is on the radar... One good thing is that I can almost sit under the truck on its wheels. One good thing about these trucks, they provide some sense of safety. lol

[zepher11]

Fuel primer pump for cold weather ops. Factory Issued on Weasels and Generators, Weasel owners (I'm one) would love to have the old unit if your scrapping it, the Knobs are especially sought, as they typically get knocked around in weather/age. Yes it was part of the artic heater setup.

GREAT job your doing there!

My Brother and I realized there was no "assigned" wiring location on the studs coming through the dash, seems it's whatever the factory guy did matching up the wires on both sides as you have done then inserting it.
V/R W Winget

Thank you! Yeah, other than the manual showing the wiring in order from A-J at the junction block, I'm not sure if the factory followed that. Since the body harness side of the wire harness that went to the junction block was all over the map on length of wire, I attached the shorter wires based on length starting at the bottom of the junction block, and the really long wires at the top. . Harnesses that I have used previously had the wire basically cut at the same length and look really nice installed. Uh, not this one. Looks a little odd and untidy, but I didn't want to cut and slice all the wires on a new harness if I could avoid it.

I don't need the artic pump. No push rod or knob, however. Now that you mention it, I recall seeing one on ebay not too long ago that had the knob. NOS I believe. Didn't realize what it was. May still be on there. If you are interested in what I have PM me your address.

Also, Fred Coldwell sent me a set of nice headlight bulbs for the WC52. I'm good to go there now. Thanks Fred!

[zepher11]

Hello Zeph,


Excellent work !!
The wiring looks like a pretty intense job, especially under the dash !!

It is looking good so far
Did you have to remove the seats to get up under there ?...."

Thanks,
Ray

I haven't removed the seats...yet. I hope I can do it without having to do so. I'm hoping my morning stretching and workout will have me limber enough to get 'er done. I'll be 60 this year, but still doing my thing. It's good to stay active. I hope! lol

[70th Division]

Hello,

Thanks Zeph ,

Looking forward to your wire investigation !!


Well don't worry, 60 is the new 40
Even better, these days you can self identify as a 30 year old !!

Best Regards,
Ray

[zepher11]

Hello,

Thanks Zeph ,

Looking forward to your wire investigation !!


Well don't worry, 60 is the new 40
Even better, these days you can self identify as a 30 year old !!

Best Regards,
Ray

lol...I'll shoot for the new 40! I can still out do most of the kids in stamina, but I'm a baby boomer.

Well, the verdict is in. The wire is good under the tape. Can't tell really well from the photo, but when looking live the wire in the tape is colorful and perfect:



Had a lot of fun trying to identify the wires going to the push/pull light switch. Even the instructions they sent don't match the wire colors. Just have to trace them through and hope that the color I think is the one that it should be is the correct one. A little scary:



I finally had to resort to using power to find what wire was what. The TM and their instructions would say black wire, but I'm left with a yellow with two black tracers....well, low and behold that's what it is. At least I figured out a way to verify what wire goes where:



Struggled a bit with the small screws when two wires would need to be on the same terminal. Needed an extra hand. Used a small wire tie to keep them together so I could get the screw in there. Worked great:



Installed the bulbs Fred sent me:



Getting them installed:



Starting to look like a WC52 again:



Have most of the dash wiring completed now. Was a workout installing the harness to the radio filter under the dash. Actually, mostly removing the rusted screws on the original harness. I neglected to order the push pull panel and b/o light switches. Will need to do that ore used the rusty hulks I removed.

[70th Division]

Hello Zeph,

Thanks for that info on the wiring !!
I will proceed on that intel with my M38A1, as I don't want to have to replace it.
I will tape each exposed wire really well, and carry on !


Your Dodge wiring project is looking great !!
I have to do the same on mine, so this is very helpful.

Keep up your good works !!!!

Those headlights look great !!!

Best Regards
Ray

[zepher11]

Hello Zeph,

Thanks for that info on the wiring !!
I will proceed on that intel with my M38A1, as I don't want to have to replace it.
I will tape each exposed wire really well, and carry on !


Your Dodge wiring project is looking great !!
I have to do the same on mine, so this is very helpful.

Keep up your good works !!!!

Those headlights look great !!!

Best Regards
Ray

Hi Ray,

Yeah, I think you will be fine wrapping the wires with tape on the exposed ends.

I continued on with the wiring project on the WC52. Here's the harness at the junction block. What a mess. One would think when they made it that they would have left all the wire for the junction block the same length. Oh well, looks like shiite, but at least it's new and I know where not to get wiring harnesses from in the future:





Made a lot of measurements to try and nail down where the fuel sending unit is:



Wasn't really sure how to cut the wood floor with the fuel tank pretty close to the bottom. I was thinking drill and then jigsaw, but the blade was too long. Then I recalled I had this Dewalt multi tool. I came in handy on the Command Car project to break spot welds. I was perfect for cutting the wood. Who invented this thing?...it's awesome!:







Snaked the fuel sending unit wire in there:



Not sure what kind of plate they had, but I made one to cover the hole:



Figured I might as well remove the real taillights to blast and paint them while I have some down time:



Now trying to figure out where to put the BODL resistor:



Just waiting on finding a panel light and b/o light switch to finish the under dash wiring. Once I get those I think I can wrap up the wiring project. I may give it a go and see if it starts as is in the meantime.

[Fred Coldwell]

On Sat Aug 28, 2021 6:43 pm, Zeph wrote:

Now trying to figure out where to put the BODL resistor:

Zeph:

On the WC 3/4-ton command cars, the BODL resistor is mounted on the very top middle of the kick panel in the driver's compartment to the left of the driver's left leg, with the bracket at and parallel to the top edge of the panel and resistor up in the air above it. It is out of the way up there and can dissipate heat without harming anything. The headlights look great; glad I could help.

[zepher11]

On Sat Aug 28, 2021 6:43 pm, Zeph wrote:

On the WC 3/4-ton command cars, the BODL resistor is mounted on the very top middle of the kick panel in the driver's compartment to the left of the driver's left leg, with the bracket at and parallel to the top edge of the panel and resistor up in the air above it. It is out of the way up there and can dissipate heat without harming anything. The headlights look great; glad I could help.

That's good to know. That's where I've installed the BODL resistor on my Dodge WC half-tons. Wasn't sure if it was the same, but makes sense. I'll have to go back in there and see if I can modify the wiring harness and make it fit in there. Of course, as most know, that's probably the most difficult location to work on in these trucks. Spare tire prevents easy access and not a great deal of room to wedge my 6' 2" 187lb body under the dash. lol

The lights do look great. If I can get this truck dialed in and a couple of smaller projects completed. I want to get cracking on the VC1.

Will be heading to the September Plymouth show in a week or so for four days. Looking forward to that.

Thanks Fred!

[zepher11]

Installed the BODL resistor. Well, what do you know. There were holes for the resistor in the kick panel. I missed those before as they are really close to the junction block. The half-tons have the holes in the center of the kick panel. I was able to pull the junction block and complete the wring without going under the dash. That was nice. Made a little short jumper and I was good to go:









Pulled the old junction blocks and was wondering if the hold down bolts were original? I was thinking they would be round head slotted screws, but both sides had the same bolts. Kinda like the bolts used on the brake line clips on the front end/frame of the half-tons and 3/4 tons:



Houston, we have ignition. With the exception of the headlights/junction blocks, everything is wire up. I figured I would see if I could start the truck after the complete wiring project. When I started the project, the only thing I was worried about was ruining the original AMP meter. Well, after starting the truck, everything worked with the exception of the AMP meter.

I started tracing the wires, but became extremely frustrated as the wiring harness advertised as the best doesn't mathc the TM wiring guidelines. Had the harness came with instructions maybe it wouldn't have been so bad. I started tracing the wires, but can't make heads or tails of how the wiring goes. It really bends my mind. The kit has just the letter designations with the color, but they do not correstpond to the TM wire letters or color.

I did have a NOS AMP gauge that I had ratholed. I tried sticking that in there and it still doesn't register any movement. Very, very frustrating!!

Not sure how to proceed at this point. At least the fuel gauge works. I likely will not havre an AMP guage any longer. I learned my lesson and will not be getting any of these harnesses in the future. Back to the ones' I have used before and NEVER had a problem. Of course, they have instructions and match the TM letter codes and wire colors. My mistake!

Here's the NOS AMP gauge:







Here's where I really get confused as I can't determine what wire goes where as the color don't match the TM:



I tried testing the wires that go to the AMP gauge to see if I could get the amps on my multi-meter, but I can't get any reading on the wires that go the the gauge. Frustrating!

[70th Division]

Hello Zeph,

That is ridiculous about the harness coding not matching the manual !!!

I got a French harness many moons ago, from a vendor, Powder River Ordnance, and it matched perfectly to the WW2 Dodge manual.
It was the main harness, I still need to get the under dash harness.

Can you contact the maker of your harness , and get a refund ?

Sounds like they have some dope heads working for them to screw up something as simple as color coded wires, and wire lenghths !!


Keep up your great work !

You are like a pathfinder for for us all to follow, with our Dodge projects !!





Best Regards,
Ray