G503 Military Vehicle Message Forums

Im finally getting round to the brake and clutch pedals, and I've noticed a difference between winch and non winch brake pedals,the winch model doesn't have the lower arm for the return spring,does anyone know how the spring fits to the lever or even post a picture for me.

mine actually ends in-3. I'll have to look into it. I'm not sure how the winch model pedal hooks up. my pedal might be from 3/4 ton.

Look in TM 10-1123 on page 69 figure 94. It shows the brake spring connected to the upper hole and angled down and back, but the image does not show where to connect the other end. This is in the clutch adjustment section.

Thanks for the info Oz,yes i can see that now,i have 2 of the orange manuals and only one shows that..!?

Hopefully someone with a winch version will post a picture of where the other end of the spring goes.

BATMOBILE1 wrote: ↑

Sun May 13, 2018 11:31 am

Hopefully someone with a winch version will post a picture of where the other end of the spring goes.

Yes, That would be helpful.

The only other thing to do would be to check the area of the cab bulkhead to see if it might be obvious where that thing hitches to.

Also I have found a few times in my old images during disassembly and pre-restoration inspection I have found an image that showed correct configuration. That all assumes however that the previous owner had it correct to begin with.

Ok ,Gary Turman sent me this picture on facebook,im not sure it looks factory fitted but he has a bracket on the underside of the battery box.

BATMOBILE1 wrote: ↑

Tue May 15, 2018 12:07 pm

Ok ,Gary Turman sent me this picture on facebook,im not sure it looks factory fitted but he has a bracket on the underside of the battery box.

I checked both of my battery boxes. Neither have or have had that clip added. I would suggest checking the lower kick plate that bolts to the lower cab and see if there is a hole or clip near the pass through for the brake pedal. Mine is at the blasters so cannot check it. i could find nothing on the engine or transmission that would be acceptable, so probably somewhere on that lower panel

Cheers Oz,

Robert Stopka is going to check his to see what he has at the weekends checked my battery box and i don't have anything there either ,unfortunately my Command Car came in bits so im only now working out where things go and what im missing still..getting there slowly...

If anyone else has a winch truck i would be interested to see where the spring is located on their truck.

Very interesting about the winch vs non-winch brake pedals. I have a T-215 WC-21 frame serial #81523533. It is a non-winch frame yet the battery box did have the welded plate on it. I cut it off the box as I have a T-211 closed cab on the frame. All I can figure is that on the production line, they just installed it on the non-winch frame. The SNL G-657 master parts book does not list a seperate battery box for the winch and non-winch model 1/2 ton WC’s. We need a 1/2 ton guru to fill us in on this.

Dozerman51 wrote: ↑

Wed May 16, 2018 9:08 pm

Very interesting about the winch vs non-winch brake pedals. I have a T-215 WC-21 frame serial #81523533. It is a non-winch frame yet the battery box did have the welded plate on it. I cut it off the box as I have a T-211 closed cab on the frame. All I can figure is that on the production line, they just installed it on the non-winch frame. The SNL G-657 master parts book does not list a seperate battery box for the winch and non-winch model 1/2 ton WC’s. We need a 1/2 ton guru to fill us in on this.

Yes its an interesting one thats for sure, and not many people seem to be aware theres a difference,once i get the engine and transmission back in the truck and attach the PTO it will probably be obvious why its done like this..

Finally getting round to posting something,its been a while..im still working on it honest ...

Got my T207 engine back from the engineering shop,its a great place full of old racing cars.. anyway they put new sleeves in as the old ones where on the last size,so i thought for the cost i would have it taken back down to standard,they also reground the valve surfaces and replaced the valve guides for me. I started to replace the cam bearings the first one was easy ,i happened to have a socket i use for the wheel nuts and it was the exact size to take out the first 2 bearings.although i wasn't so careful with the second bearing and bent it..one side has a cut out for the tappets and as you hammer it in if its not perfectly square the curved edge catches the side...so i had to buy another complete set.. Also fitted new pistons and rings ,i won't fit these till i get the engine assembly lube,and have given the block a complete blow out to get the machining debris out ..
Have also started cleaning up the rear end of the chassis,i lifted the rear end and blocked it up on wood for the time being ,so at some point i will have to raise the front end as well so i can get to the rest of the chassis,its all a bit difficult in a garage my size..im thinking of hanging it from the roof ,then covering the chassis with wood boards lower the body back down and put it on its side so i can clean up and weld the underside.. I also removed the rear tow hitch cleaned it up and resprayed it. I also had a go at welding the holes someone had cut in the rear bumpers,fist job was a bit rough..then i realised i hadn't turned the gas up enough..so many hours later with the grinder managed to grind down the weld so it was flat.. So all sprayed nicely now with primer now just waiting for the paint to go off and i will spray them green.

excellent progress. can't wait to see the engine go together.

Cheers Oz,

Will be using your thread to see how it goes back together..lol.

Ive got the valves back in now and today will be putting on the front plate and cam chain etc.

Will post some pictures later.

I look forward to seeing those pics. Together we are building a great series of threads on the Dodge between you, Zeph and a few others we are learning more. I love it.

I posted a few more images of the rear seals on my thread based on your comments. I hope those help. So far I have NO oil seepage from my engine, only a bit of H2O seepage from two manifold studs and two engine head studs. I re-used some old studs ( just a few) and I think all the wear on the threads with blasting and the wear on the threads in the block really increase the clearance between threads and grooves. I would just use all NEW studs/bolts for the head and use a good bit of sealant. I think if you do that you will not have the weeping of green water Some times trying to save $25 comes back later to haunt you. Cheap never serves one well as I am learning.

Good Luck Mate!

Yes thanks for the info Oz,very good step by step guide.

I bought all new head bolts and manifold bolts,i was told that the bolts can stretch over time,as on the Harley head bolts they bottom out and you don't get the proper seal.

What sort of thread sealer are you using? obviously it will be a different manufacturer over here to what you get over in the States,just interested to know what type to use.! i would probably use lock tight ?