Another project, WC 3/4t Command Car this time

[mdainsd]

So this is the type I settled on. Drop forged stainless steel head. And I only bought (for now) the dies for 5/32" Tubular rivets, as that is what is used on the hoods. When and if I need other rivet set sizes the dies are industry standard. I really like this tool as you can adjust the stroke so that as the crimp is just finishing you can get maximum pressure.

squeezer.jpg (23.98 KiB) Viewed 1910 times

[zepher11]

So this is the type I settled on. Drop forged stainless steel head. And I only bought (for now) the dies for 5/32" Tubular rivets, as that is what is used on the hoods. When and if I need other rivet set sizes the dies are industry standard. I really like this tool as you can adjust the stroke so that as the crimp is just finishing you can get maximum pressure.

squeezer.jpg

Thanks for the photo. I see some hood work in my future and was wondering about how to tackle the rivets. That looks like the perfect tool for the job!

[mdainsd]

Some progress has been happening despite the heat and Jury duty.

I left off getting a new tool for riveting the hood halves to their new hinges. Went great, very happy. Have most of the front end together. I have the drivers front fender to finish then the front will be all together for fit check and alignment. Got to get those shot lines and gaps perfect!

So a couple of pics:

DSCF0654small.jpg (181.5 KiB) Viewed 1841 times

DSCF0654small.jpg (181.5 KiB) Viewed 1841 times

[mdainsd]

Where do you guys get your stencils? Im ready to order up. i have the original hood numbers (still on the original hood), so I know the size and font.

Just wondering who does a good job?

[dpcd67]

I get mine from my local graphics guy; they all have computer operated plotters now that make stick on, or paper, stencils, to whatever font you want. I have taken him pictures, and actual Dodge hoods, to copy.
And for 60s dated MVs, I get stick on numbers and letters.
Others get them from military stencils dot com.

[mdainsd]

Still chugging along on the project.
Pictures to follow. Camera batteries are always dead when I finally think about taking picture

The second front fender is all finished with metal work, cutting out the rot at the rear support/stiffener and welding in new skin.

Both tailgates I have are in the running and receiving attention. The original has a dent in the face of it in the lower left corner, pushed in. I tried the weld studs but they weren't tough enough to move it a bit. I now think just cut that lower corner of the outer face and weld in a new piece but warping worries me. The other one is one that a fabrication shop did years ago copying the original, must have cost a fortune to have a shop do that, but when the owner before me had it done, there were no reproductions being made. Its dead straight, but I am leaning towards fixing the original...

The thing that has eaten weeks of weekend time has been putting a winch on a WC-56. Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I have the 57 frame restored, but the 56 chassis I have is completely done so it is what I am using for the foreseeable future. When my estate sends my CC to auction I will leave instructions to include the 57 frame, so if anyone wants to make it completely correct they can, LOL.

Can you put the Braden MU-2 on a WC-56? The short answer is you can put anything on anything, I guess. Is it a straight forward proposition? No.

I started with some Civilian B series frame extensions. Do they fit? No. The WC56 has an inner frame C section (so double walled frame). I don't have a civilian truck to look at but my guess is they do not have that stiffener. I had the upper and lower flanges of the extensions milled to allow them to fit in the unmodified frame. The other method would be to cut out the inner frame on the truck. I didn't want to do that. Next, one of the holes on the front of the extension that the upper bumper brace attaches to has to be moved. Looks like you could just substitute the B series bumper braces, but I choose not to. Two sets of holes have to be added to the front frame rails. A pair for the extensions to bolt fully up to the frame and a pair for the rear winch mounts.

After too many trial fits and final painting and assembling I just about got it. The remaining problem is the order of assembly. This last time I got it wrong and there is one winch mount to casting that cannot be accessed, dammit! So despite getting it all together this weekend without scratching the paint is has to come off again...

I'll post some pictures directly.

[mdainsd]

A couple of pictures.

The hardware has been a challenge and I still have a few to deal with. The Braden winch uses it's own unique hardware, So does Dodge but they are definitely different. The winch, including the mounting bars and cast lower guides would be assembled at Braden and shipped to Dodge. So the winch assembly (complete) would use Braden hardware. Dodge would set the assembly onto the frame and use (more than likely) use 6 dodge marked bolts.

DSCF0661s.jpg (132.52 KiB) Viewed 237 times

The Dodge hardware has the imprint DPDC in the head of each post, The Braden bolts are completely smooth on the heads of all the hardware used on the winch. When I rebuilt the with I found the passenger side bearing carrier was warped beyond use. I located a replacement that is a much heavier bronze casting. Neat! Except now the Braden bolts for that carrier are not long enough. So making replacement Braden bolts was required.

Still a couple bolts to make and a couple to change out.