Restoring WC12 W-231808

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Ernie Baals
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by Ernie Baals » Mon Jun 11, 2018 4:23 pm

Hi Oz
I donlt know if you know it or not, but that is not the correct style coil
It should only have the lead the goes to the dist come out under the hood
the other end hooks right to the ignition switch on the back of the coil
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17thAirborne
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Mon Jun 11, 2018 4:28 pm

i could not find that style of coil, so i used the standard type and will route with other wires. do you know of a source?
Oz

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by Ernie Baals » Mon Jun 11, 2018 4:34 pm

I will look around for you
I know i have seen them advertised
Ernie
Rip Dad 1/22/24 to 12/21/11
I will always love and miss you.
Ernie Baals MVPA 104C and 3104, AACA, SJC MVPA

Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government
that requires every citizen to prove
they are insured……but not everyone
must prove they are a citizen”

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:21 pm

Ernie Baals wrote:
Mon Jun 11, 2018 4:34 pm
I will look around for you
I know i have seen them advertised
Ernie
All i could find were the typical two posts on top. It should be easy to dump my $19 coil and shorten one wire on the reroute if one turns up. Thanks for looking.
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:14 pm

A little more wiring today. Waiting on some 3-way junctions, but I think I will get the engine and gauge portions wired and run the engine. I found out from VPW if you have one of their chromium colored gauges they have a problem. The manufacturer did not set them up properly and they do not work. He is sending me a new gauge. Its a 6v two post that will work with y 3 post fuel gauge.
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:30 pm

If anyone can verify the routing of the brown lead between the dimmer switch and the bright indicator bulb on the dash. It goes through the elongated FW hole to the bulb.

1. Does it run up with the VR harness and then down to the dimmer switch as I have routed it, (Black line)

OR

2. Does it run down with the genny harness and then across to the dimmer switch.(red line) (This looks more proper I me thinks)
dimmer wire path.jpg
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Tue Jun 12, 2018 4:00 pm

17thAirborne wrote:
Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:30 pm
If anyone can verify the routing of the brown lead between the dimmer switch and the bright indicator bulb on the dash. It goes through the elongated FW hole to the bulb.

1. Does it run up with the VR harness and then down to the dimmer switch as I have routed it, (Black line)

OR

2. Does it run down with the genny harness and then across to the dimmer switch.(red line) (This looks more proper I me thinks)
i have been thinking about this and will use the red routing and bundle it with the two leads from the signal light and the others to the dimmer switch. That makes a nice bundle going from the elongated FW hole, down with the genny bundle and the horizontally to the signal light and the dimmer.
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:56 am

Few minor items tackled. Installed the choke and throttle cables. I am short one of the sheet metal screws that goes through the 4-way cable bundle to the carb etc. Once I have that, that control bundle should look cleaner.

I finished the oil gauge line and connected it to the gauge and dry mounted the gauge. I need to find the correct nuts for the posts for the gauges and speedo.

I added a few more wires to the bundle and am waiting on the master light switch and a few larger connecting rings for the larger genny and VR posts. . Once those arrive I can get everything under the dash completed (need to add the signal light switch wires) and then I can test and wrap the bundle under the dash and out to the genny and VR. I will leave the engine side 8-way bundle open as I am not ready to run the lighting wires without fenders and such. That can come later as all of those wires come from the 8-way on the engine side. The dash side from the 9-way will be complete.
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:11 am

The first part of the harness (minus a few ring terminals) is complete. This is the harness portion that goes from the firewall 8-way connector to the dash components such as fuel gauge and master light switch. I had to make one wiring change. I did not anticipate in my purchase, the need for two different wires to the fuel sending unit. I could probably had used the same blue wire, and sorted the 1 and 2 terminals with labels. I choose the blue wire with two white ticks (No. 2 terminal) for the No 2 post. That was originally slated for the trailer harness, but I will now use black wire with two yellow tracers for that. I could have ordered something else, but only the sharpest of eyes (Ernie) would be able to tell I have a wrong color going to the trailer socket. No telling on me Ernie :wink:

Well, here is part one with original ww2 cloth covered tape! The bakelite junction block is a thing of beauty. I like how they molded recesses in the center to keep the wires segregated and insulated. After installing the ring connectors and soldering then, you put a clean 90 degree bend to the connector and the wires stand up straight out of the center. Really cool design.

From here the harness makes a left and downward turn into the two wiring clips on the left kick panel, then along the inside bottom to the dash. The two blue wires feed off to the fuel gauge, and the rest will connect to the master wiring harness.

Next I'll tackle the bundle that passes through the elongated firewall hole to the VR, genny, dimmer switch, starter, dizzy and the coil,

That leaves the engine side of the 8-way block, and that can wait until later as these are all for lighting and trailer. The only lines I need for now are the fuel gauge lines and they are already cut to length. They will get wrapped with the trailer and light wires later.

I have the 8-way block on backwards in the image. The recessed lip goes on the inside, so the wires need to be moved to the other side.
8way to dash.jpg
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:07 pm

Brake Terminals. I used the plastic covered female connectors, stripped off the hard plastic and soldered them on to the wires and covered with shrink wrap.
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jun 14, 2018 2:49 pm

The main harness is nearly done except for a few ring terminals. There are several trunks on the harness that keep wires that are going to common areas together. Having never seen an original harness, and going from the few images I've seen, this is the best rendition I can muster. It might not be factory correct, but I believe it is close.

As soon as my remaining connectors arrive, I'll solder them in place, and then attach the small number tapes and hook everything up giving it one final verification so that the blue smoke does not fill the cab when i first turn the ignition switch on. :lol:

Again, I'll tackle the lighting portion from the 8-way to the front, rear and BO lights when I get to TN. I am close to starting the engine. I'll get this hooked up, check continuity, fill all fluids, tighten everything (especially the oil lines) and recheck the timing. I'll also go back and set the carby to the factory ready settings.

then....crank.... :shock:
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jun 14, 2018 5:30 pm

Regarding the individual cable lengths that I said I would post, scratch that. Any measurements I post would not be to factory spec and hence they would be misleading. Since the specific routing and bundling of individual wires is not known to me, I have used some assumptions, common sense and derivations from images to set the run length.

I think each of you will have to run the gauntlet as I have done and set your own length with preference to routing and how much slack you want at the hook up location. Besides, what I have learned from doing this has been immensely satisfying and I would not want to rob you of that joy. :lol:

Seriously, it's been a great exercise so far and you will enjoy chasing the wire runs yourself.
Oz

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:04 pm

This evening i continued refining the harness. I started forward of the firewall by finishing ring connectors and lableing the individual wires and their locations. This is more of an accounting step than anything else. Given that this is my first MV wiring exercise, I want to make sure all of the colors match the schematic and are in fact connected to the correct locations. DO not want any blue smoke in the cockpit when the ignition switch goes hot :shock:

Under the VR cover, I made jumper cables to go from the respective B/F/A on the solid state VR to the B/F/A on the vintage VR tabs. All of the resistors and connection under the bakelite covers are truncated so only the tabs are active with a connection through the bakelite to the jumper wires.

I had an old rusty damaged base, harvested the cover posts, shortened them and connected hardware for a vintage look. I will tap the four corners of the cover and thread fillister head blued fine thread gun screws into the base. This will secure the cover with little visual disturbance.
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:08 pm

Post Script. For you thread nazis (I would probably qualify in that category), the connectors on the VR wires should be flag and not ring (at least I think that is the case) I just don't have the correct size and my enthusiasm for minutia wanes from time to time. Please forgive me :roll:
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Jun 16, 2018 10:53 am

Still cleaning up the loose ends. I purchased two #14 x 1/2" sheet metal screws for the speedometer, throttle pass through hole. I could not find round head and had to settle for pan head screws. At least they are not phillips. The split rubber bushing could a bit bigger to squeeze the cables in their respectiveconduit slots. I'll fiddle with this later, perhaps adding a few layers of electrical tape on the inside of the bracket to create a bit more "squeeze" on the cables.

I replaced the fuel sending unit with the new one that VPW sent me. It has a single long actuating arm for the resistor which swings on a long axis. The old one had a vertical post extending into the tank, and a shorter actuating arm for the float. It did not matter which way you drilled the 5 mounting holes as the float arm would not hit the sides or the baffles. The newer float arm is so long that if it is not oriented to keep the float from striking the sides or baffles, it will not work. You have to orient the 5 screw mounting holes correctly!!! I was not attuned to that requirement with the other float, so consequently I had to re-drill all 5 holes. Just took some time but it is done now.


Just a note for the sender: The rear of the fuel gauge is labeled 1 and 2. THose go to wires 38 and 24 respectively. According to VPW if you install the wires on the sending unit posts incorrectly the gauge will read opposite. Simple fix reverse the two wires at the sending unit.

I am continuing to tackle the harness. I think I am really close, having only the master light switch to finish. I'll get a better image of the ignition switch and ammeter when I finish the dash wiring. Perhaps this afternoon. :wink:
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Oz

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