Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

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Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by Buster1 » Wed Jun 23, 2021 6:58 am

How do you transport your Jeep / MV?

I’m not talking about authentic towed accessories for your vehicle, but modern trailer options and preferences when you tow your MV somewhere.

Two-axle? What kind of ramps and tie downs? Do you have an enclosed trailer? Let’s see and hear what you guys are doing!
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Re: Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by W. Winget » Wed Jun 23, 2021 7:48 am

Having done this over the years, I have the following discoveries.
For general towing, (assuming the towing vehicle is up to the task and equipped with brake controller)
Up to 3/4T trucks:
Two axle tilt bed trailer with front mounted winch,- best - the bed tilts you either drive on or off ot pull it on and roll it off, simple and rather stable.
Beavertail tandem with short ramps - ok - the bend in the bed allows for easier loading, but you will want a winch or larg enough flat area to drive in onto and be stable while you tie it down.
Flat deck with heavy long ramps -poor-, as other items catch as they cross the thereshold of the trailer ramp area (low cars exhaust for example) but this is very practical for hauling other things of odd shapes and sizes, only surpassed by the tilt beds capability here.
Enclosed very poor for hauling, as loads are not tied down well and you have to crawl over things at times to enter/exit, and doors suffer from weight as they are driven over.

For larger vehicles (halftrack and 3/4T up)
Three axle is preferable, but the towing vehicle is more critical. Everything needs to STOP (when a XXXXX jumps in front of you and slams on the brakes as they are talking on their cell phone...) - OK -
Roll back service - Best-, as it's around $60 and your there and back safely with less fretting over the safety of your baby and those around you. Have them drop it at the event and pick it up when your done, the cost of service is less than the taxes and insurance of owning a truck and trailer rig to haul it with in some cases.

Straps VS Chains:
Ratchet Straps 2" wide minimum in X pattern front and rear work well, just check them 2 miles into the trip! do not cross sharp metal points, adding one across the body can help control wobble of the vehicle sitting atop the trailer reducing springy action.
Chains ensure safty well, but scratch things, a must for heavier vehicles, but beware of improper tiedowns to avoid crusing brakelines as they are secured. X pattern front and rear again.

I tend to add a chain or strap from the rear of the trailer to the lunette (or rear most mount on the trailered load) as added safety in case the brakes were to be hit hard. X pattern secures it side to side well but the comfort of knowing the trailer would have to literally hit me in the head before the vehicle came off is comforting? (Had halftrack roll on trailer and it remained tied to the trailer, :shock: had a little experience in tying things down, just a poor overloaded trailer unfortunately. :evil: )

BEST: have freinds that buy trailers and have/make room on YOUR property to store them, then they will let you use their trailers, you don't pay for the trailer/ tax / license / inspection.... BEST! :D
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Re: Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by doctordirt » Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:05 am

Because of the need to negotiate the trailer into a narrow driveway off a narrow alley, I chose to buy a 12 foot Currahee, dual axle landscape trailer. It is rated at 7K payload, so plenty for a jeep. The tailgate is sturdy enough to drive the jeep up from almost any angle - much better than ramps in my opinion. Mine has a wooden deck.
Add a winch, and you can recover even a dead jeep.
I added ring bolt tie-downs the length of the trailer on both sides so I can carry cargo and have plenty of places to tie down a tarp.

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Re: Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by GPW1263 » Thu Jun 24, 2021 12:25 pm

Every part of your rig has a rating..especially the coupler/hitch & tires. The weakest component is the weakest link. Exceed ratings at your peril.

DO THE MATH. If your load weighs 5000lbs and your hitch is rated for 5000lbs, you're OVER your hitch weight rating. Don't forget to add the trailer weight (plus whatever else you're carrying).

Brakes brakes BRAKES. Brakes are a must-have item. Not only will you and the people around you be safer, your towing experience will be far more worry free.

If you can't afford good equipment, don't buy anything until you can. If you buy something that isn't quite adequate, odds are you'll keep using it.

Set aside time for hooking up your trailer and time for securing your load. It should never be a rushed job.

Invest in everything you will need for self-recovery and carry it with you...including whatever may be needed to warn others in the event of breakdown. Have an - Oh, Finless Brown Trout! - Kit on board that includes spare bulbs, a circuit tester and plug for your trailer..

Invest in quality securement devices and whatever might be needed to protect your load from them or connect your load to them. The best securement device in the world will not help you if you can't actually use it.

Carry spare load securement devices and replace damaged load securement devices. Yes, this includes chains.

ABP Always Be Professional. Do a walk-around before you leave anywhere, including pit stops.

Check your load securement frequently.

Believe it or not, car tires are for CARS and trailer tires are for TRAILERS. There IS a difference. Go figure... :roll:

Extra points are awarded for maintaining extra stopping distance.

Maintain your trailer with the same loving care that you maintain your load....or better.

If you don't know whether or not your trailer's wheel bearings need repacking....then they definitely need repacking.

Loads are precious. LIVES are more precious. Drive like you might be killed.

Murphy's Law is always hard at work where towing and carrying loads are concerned. Have a backup plan for your backup plan.

Two is one and One is none. If you believe carrying one spare wheel bearing, grease seal, a tub of grease or just enough load securement to make the trip will be enough...think again.

Familiarize yourself with your truck and trailer in combination well in advance of your trip'.

Every eventuality happens eventually. You can bet your life on it.....but why would you?

After loading, take several shakedown runs before you take your trip.

If the voice in your head is telling you, "This is a really bad idea" then whatever you're doing is absolutely a really bad idea.

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Re: Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by Av8er » Wed Jun 30, 2021 3:18 pm

Buster1 wrote:
Wed Jun 23, 2021 6:58 am
How do you transport your Jeep / MV?

I’m not talking about authentic towed accessories for your vehicle, but modern trailer options and preferences when you tow your MV somewhere.

Two-axle? What kind of ramps and tie downs? Do you have an enclosed trailer? Let’s see and hear what you guys are doing!
Here’s some food for thought. I went through this a couple of years ago to transport my Jeep. I started out looking at just open car hauling trailers and decided to go with a car hauling enclosed trailer with a drop gate-boarding ramp because it would offer more security for my Jeep whenever I stopped anywhere, as well as protection from the weather. Also went with tandem wheels for more safety in the event of blowing a tire at high speed. Finally, I started out looking at 14-16 foot trailers and ended up going with a 24’ V-nose trailer that I can also use as a camper/sleeper when attending weekend events a long way from home. In retrospect, I am happy with my decisions in all respects. Currently outfitting my trailer with a kitchen area, bathroom and fold-up wall bunks to serve as a dual purpose toy hauler/RV. When I ordered my trailer I was able to specify where I wanted to have my tie-downs located. I use 2” heavy duty car hauling ratchet straps in a cross pattern and it all works great. Ended up putting a Bluetooth camera on back of my trailer to keep track of vehicles behind me in my blind spot. I have also heard that some people mount a camera inside their trailer so they can keep an eye on the vehicle they are transporting. FWIW, my trailer dealer is currently having a tough time getting trailers because COVID has backed up the manufacturers. He has 60 trailers on back order and has no idea when they will be available.
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Re: Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by WP1 » Tue Jul 06, 2021 4:40 am

I have a Dodge Ram 3500 dually and a new 24' PJ trailer with dual 7k axles. It has drive over fenders and is 102" wide. I also put a 15,500 winch up front. I can haul 2 Jeeps at a time or a WC Dodge with no problem. I have hauled a halftrack minus the rear armor too , performed fine. One thing I see people do wrong is how they strap the vehicle down. I was taught by the Germans when we rail headed tracked vehicles to make an X front and rear with your tie downs. That way it can't move up or down or left and right.

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Re: Trailer Talk; Transporting your MV

Post by sjalbert » Mon Jul 19, 2021 11:49 am

GPW1263 wrote:
Thu Jun 24, 2021 12:25 pm
ABP Always Be Professional. Do a walk-around before you leave anywhere, including pit stops.

Check your load securement frequently.

Just got back from a roughly 2000 mile round trip. I store my trailer at a friends hanger. He put indicating caps on the air valves (if they're green they're good). Stopped for a quick bio break about an hour after a food & fuel stop. All four indicators were green at the food/fuel stop. One was red at the bio break. Google Maps showed a tire shop 3/4 mile away. Valve stem on a six month old tire (which as far as I know hadn't hit anything) was cracked. 15 minutes and $5 later I was back on the road.

Straps were dry on the outbound trip, got 1 to 2 extra clicks on the ratchets on the first few stops. They started out wet on the return trip, got extra clicks every stop the first day and the first couple of stops the second day
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