Trailer Mounted Airborne Compressor Tools

[17thAirborne]

I'm not sure if this is the correct section for this or not, but I wanted to start a thread on the tools that go with the Trailer Mounted Airborne Compressor that I recently found. TM 5-5106 lists the tools that are included with the compressor.
The red annotations come from the TM descriptions.

1ea, Hammer, 13 1/2" Ball Peen

1ea Wrench, Adjustable, 11" Auto

1ea, Wrench, Spark Plug, 2-Piece, 1 1/32" x 1 5/16"

1ea Screwdriver, 6" blade

1ea, Wrench, Open End, 9/16" x 5/8"

1ea, Wrench, Open End, 7/16" x 1/2"

1ea, Wrench, Open End, 5/16' X 3/8"

1ea, Oil Can, 1/4 Pint

1ea, Wrench, Special 5/8" Double End Box

1ea, Grease Gun, Zerk No. 6570

1ea, Hose Coupling, Tire Inflation with Check Valve

[17thAirborne]

The tool box is of a rather sturdy construction, about 14 gauge. It has a hinges lid that overhangs on the back side and has a hasp on the front for a conventional lock. There are two lips on the left and right side on the interior for holding the tool tray. The lid has a metal loop and lip to hold TM 5-5106.

The front of the box has two significant dents. They are hard to repair for me given the lack of tools and inability to get a hammer on the interior to ding out the dents. Heat and cool did not do much good either, so perhaps we will leave a bit of character in the box.

The tool tray has two holes drilled in the floor. I assume, as with other tool box trays, the hole is for the spout of the 1/4 pt. oil can. There are two holes drilled to 3/8" and both look to be re-drilled from the original size as they have a significant lip from the drill. I will weld-fill them and re-drill a smaller hole at 1/4" in the correct location.

[17thAirborne]

Most of the tools for the kit are easy to find. I elected to go with the Williams brand for the three wrenches. The 3/8 x 5/16 seems a bit illusive, but will turn up. The special double ended 5/8 wrench looks correct, but I just noticed the offset end is on the wrong side and should be on the same side as the 90 degree portion.

I am also not quite sure on the oil can as it lists 1/4 pint. I need to do some more research from vintage tool catalogs to find the correct size. The hole drilled in the tray was 1 1/2" from the edge, so the can cannot be greater than 3" in diameter.

I weld filled the two holes in the tray and once I find the correct oiler, I will re-drill a 1/4 hole in the tray bottom to accommodate the spout as it sticks up through the tray when placed in the bottom. This prevents it from being tipped over during transport.

[17thAirborne]

Using the Williams wrenches brings up a few issues, one being whether to use the alloy "superwrench" or the carbon steel version. The markings on them are different. I am using the carbon steel version which was manufactured from 1924-1947 with the Williams logo, the scroll below and FORGED <W> IN USA. There are discussions about how the logo was changed before 1947 to accommodate smaller wrenches. Apprently the FORGED <W> USA was modified to U.S.A among other differences to fit on the smaller wrench head. I have found a 3/8 x 5/16 wrench that contains only the <W> with U.S.A below and no williams scroll writing.

I am not sure if that will be correct. I'll post pics when it arrives. I decided to restore my wrenches back to the semi-gloss black finish and unpainted wrench faces. I am open to comments on this.

[Rustman]

The front of the box has two significant dents. They are hard to repair for me given the lack of tools and inability to get a hammer on the interior to ding out the dents. Heat and cool did not do much good either, so perhaps we will leave a bit of character in the box.

It seems counterintuitive but you want a sturdy chunk of metal you hold on the inside (called a Dolly) and you want to hit the outside of the box around the dent. By pressing on the dent with the dolly and hammering around it, you'll smooth it out. Look up videos on YouTube with subjects like "Panel Beating" or "Hammer and Dolly". They used to do this all the time with cars. There are even smaller dollies for reaching into places like the bottom of door panels to straighten them. You aren't the first person to not have room to swing a hammer and the auto body repair industry had it all figured out before they switched to just throwing out panels and putting on new ones.

Matt

[17thAirborne]

Matt,

I have a few hammers and dollies, but the metal is very thick, and the dent is toward the inside with little room to swing a hammer. I spent about an hour hammering with very little effect. I tried from both the inside and the outside. Im guessing this metal is thicker than 14 guage and it does not flex at all. It is much sturdier than the GMTK tool boxes. I also tried heating followed by cool air with no effect. I was thinking if someone near me had a hydraulic planching (not sure of correct term) hammer with long anvil to set this on it would work, or a similar tool. I appreciate the help though.

[henry501]

Oz,

Would love more info on the compressor itself. Manufacturer, model, date, etc. Also photos if you would be so kind.

Thank you,
Henry

[henry501]

Oz,

I found the following on the web re the manual "5-5106 Compressor, Air, Trailer-Mounted, Gasoline-Engine-Driven, 55-CFM, Ingersoll-Rand Model 6R-50 with Wisconsin Engine Model VF-4. War Dept. Feb. 1944. 162 pgs" so that answers the make and model question. Would still love more info and photos on the compressor itself especially as you say it is an airborne compressor.

Thank you,
Henry

[17thAirborne]

Henry,

Thanks for the contact. I have posted a few images on my website:

http://gpw.castraponere.com/index.php/a ... trailer-2/

I am working on a GPW restoration, so the only progress I have made is on the tool kit. I found a repro TM from Holland. I may have another copy coming in from the vendor as due to an 8 week delay in mail he sent me another, and then the original one arrived the next day. I told him I would send the second one back, but perhaps I can put you in contact with him and we can work something simpler out for all of us.

Do you own one of these?

[Steve Webb]

How deep is the inside of the box across the part where the dents are. A small bottle jack might fit. Put a full piece of wood on the side not dented and a small piece of wood or metal on the dent and give it a try. If it fits then a little at a time and let it sit then a little more pressure?

[17thAirborne]

Steve,
Thanks much for the support. I just purchased a 55 lb anvil with a suitable horn that should work. I really needed that for other things also. I will see how that works by sliding the horn into the box and trying to coax the dent out.

[Steve Webb]

Get you one of these. It's a Stewart Handi Vise. Plus an anvil horn and other attachments I don't have. One of my most used shop tools

[17thAirborne]

Looks like you could just squeeze the dents out with that thing!!

Those are not cheap even used ones!

[Steve Webb]

I got it for free. A man from my Church passed away and I was doing some electrical work for his daughters so they could sell the house. He had 2-3 metal sheds full of stuff. They were paying someone to haul it all away so they said take what I wanted and I grabbed that.

[17thAirborne]

That's a great deal. There is one in Paris, OH, used, for $220.00 Probably a great buy if you live close, but that is a 1080 mile trip for me Will get on the anvil work soon and post some pics.