So, you want to build a replica Fyr-Fyter M2?

[AZ Jeff]

Farrell's recent post on building a replica Fyr-Fyter M2 Decontaminator from a (correct) Fyr-Fyter 1.5 Quart Extinguisher "core" prompted me to take some photographs detailing the differences between an original F-F M2 (original paint example depicted in the left hand image) and the very close c. 1940s F-F FE core that you will want to find.

NOTE: There are other "close" looking 1.5 quart F-F FEs -- and plenty of incorrect F-F brackets -- out there so note these FE core details carefully. I also wouldn't doubt that some folks have passed off refinished and re-decaled F-F FEs as "restored M2s" which, as you'll see shortly, is not all that difficult so these images should help you ID a real unit if nothing else.

(1) Overall comparison...



Note that both have a centered, 3" x 6" recess for the brass tag or decal. Both tags and decals were used on WW2 F-F decontaminators as documented in surviving examples.

(2) Cap marking and T-Handle (front) markings...



Note that the markings and caps are identical. There are also F-F M2s with filler cap retention chains but -- as you can see here -- not all F-F M2s had them. Likewise, the small hole in the M2 T-Handle does not appear in all M2s.

(3) T-Handle (reverse) markings...



Note the raised 383. There are also "2101" FEs out there but they will not have all of the correct features (been there, bought that...)

(4) Discharge Nozzle details...



Note the Centaur (Horse-Man) with Bow marking in the center. This marking does not appear on all F-F M2s (see updated discussion below).The discharge nozzles is where all M2s differ from their civilian counterparts. In this instance though, the F-F M2 dicharge nozzle is easily replicated using a common brass acorn nut slotted with a cutting wheel. To attach it, I cut off the FE discharge "nub" flush with the FE base and thread the hole for a short stud matching the thread on the acorn nut. I insert the stud (epoxy if necessary) and thread the slotted acorn nut down until it matches the orientation of the M2 nozzle. If you're REAL AMBITIOUS, you could carefully drill out the stud (so that the nozzle would work) and include the thin brass tabbed washer (that keeps the nozzle from rotating) between the base and the nozzle.

The next two images show the stamped steel F-F M2 and FE brackets. In my experience the civilian bracket depicted is not easy to find but the search will be well worth it. All other F-F FE brackets I've seen are not even close.

(5) Mounting Brackets overall...



Note that these are thin, stamped steel with embossed Bumper Pad mounts (2) and a thin Retention Strap with "spoon" type catch. The rubber pads are available at good hardware stores but you may have to cut them down a bit. These brackets are VERY close in appearance with one significant difference...

(6) Mounting Bracket Cup details...



Note that the M2 cup has a "dimple" depression to accomodate the longer M2 Discharge Nozzle. This dimple extends into the bracket base as well. Yes, the M2 will fit in a civilian bracket but not as well as it should.

Hopefully you've found this primer in Fyr-Fyter trivia helpful. Good luck in your project!

Jeff Q.
AZ

[gpw6335]

I need to repaint my M2, previous owner polished it . I think he thought it was a fire ex. What color or paint type closely matches the original color. Thanks

[AZ Jeff]

There are a few shades but they should have a bluish tint. Dupli-Color DE1612 Gray Engine Primer is a close match and very durable. Once dried, buff it to a slight semi gloss.

Jeff Q.
AZ

[Ethan L]

(4) Discharge Nozzle details...Note the Centaur (Horse-Man) with Bow marking in the center.

In regards to the Centaur; Do all Fyr-Fyter M2 Decons have that marking? The reason I ask is there is an F F M2 on eBay right now and it does not have that marking. The rest looks the same as your example. There is not a filler cap retention chain, and the pump handle is marked with a "383"



Is this something I need to watch out for?

[AZ Jeff]

Ethan,

Perhaps others with F-F M2s will chime in, but you'll also notice that the example you've posted has a distinctive ridge around the perimeter of the bottom. I've seen this on civilian F-F extinguishers but not on the three F-F M2s I've had over the years. I'm wondering if this is a later(?) M2 variant based on this and the missing Centaur -- or a good replica??? Also, the discharge nozzle doesn't have the small hole in the center of the slot. Is that example brass tag or decal type?

Jeff Q.
AZ

[Ethan L]

As I look at it, the label appears to be a brass tag. There is some dimension to the label that I don't see on my decal label FE.





Here is a picture of the top incase anyone would like to see it.

[AZ Jeff]

Cool. Looks legit to me. I know of two F-F brass tag graphics variations so I'm thinking that example -- with the variant bottom and missing Centaur -- reflects a distinct version.

Jeff

[jimmy fixer]

Hi I am currently building a replica fry fyter M2 decontaminator using a extinguisher I have imported from the USA I am located in the United Kingdom
would you happen to have the hexagon or spanner size for the nozzle acorn nut as I can't decide if it is 3/8 -7/16 or something else from the pictures
please help if you can regards simon smith UK.

[d42jeep]

I received plenty of help from AZ Jeff when I did mine. To answer your question, I used 1/4” studs along with 1/4” acorn nuts. I drilled out and tapped the existing discharge holes in the extinguishers. The hex size on the acorn nuts is 7/16”. I hope that helps.
-Don

[jimmy fixer]

Hi thank you very much for responding with that information best wishes simon

[Doug Page]

Who sells the fyr fyter decal? I can only find the General Detroit one.

Thanks

[d42jeep]

I got mine from Midwest Military.
https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/produc ... es/decals/
-Don