M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
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- G-Private
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M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
Hi all,
I would be grateful if someone could confirm what shims are needed to install the axle drive flange. There were none associated with it when it was taken apart.
I have information relevant to an MB which states that shims should be 0.040 plus measured gap.
Is the M201 the same ?
Regards
Dave
I would be grateful if someone could confirm what shims are needed to install the axle drive flange. There were none associated with it when it was taken apart.
I have information relevant to an MB which states that shims should be 0.040 plus measured gap.
Is the M201 the same ?
Regards
Dave
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- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1931
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
The M-201 from the Book- "The Jeep" by J-G Jeudy and M Tararine state the M-201 used the later bendix universal joints having No screw threads. The end float is controlled by the flanged bushing in the spindle. Only a gasket is used. No shims needed.
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- G-Private
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
Hi,
Many thanks for that.
There were no shims or gaskets at all, and since I have now reached the other side, I would confirm that is just the same.
I have ordered the French manual on the M201 and will report back here what it says about this.
I am Most grateful for your information.
Regards
Dave
Many thanks for that.
There were no shims or gaskets at all, and since I have now reached the other side, I would confirm that is just the same.
I have ordered the French manual on the M201 and will report back here what it says about this.
I am Most grateful for your information.
Regards
Dave
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- Jeep Heaven
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
It will be found that French built Jeeps used older style threaded axles, there are examples of NOS Rzeppas by WOF.
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- G-Corporal
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
I have just in french (I am french and my English is basic), sorry.
Remontage de l'ensemble arbre et joint de cardan
1. Introduire l'ensemble dans le carter du pont AV en prenant soin de ne pas endommager le joint d'huile du carter corps pivot de fusée. Faire entrer l'extrémité cannelée de l'arbre de pont dans le différentiel et pousser jusqu'à ce que l'épaulement du joint de cardan bute contre la rondelle de butée du tube de pont
2. Monter la fusée de direction n°11 (planche détail du pivot de fusée et roulements de roue AV)
3. Remonter le raccord du tube hydraulique du dispositif de frein et boulonner le plateau-support de frein sur la fusée
4. Graisser les roulements de roue, monter ces roulements ainsi que le moyeu avec son tambour de frein, sur la fusée. Monter la rondelle n° 19 et l'écrou de réglage n° 20. Visser l'écrou pour obtenir un léger serrage des roulements quand on tourne la roue, puis desserrer d'environ un quart de tour. Monter ensuite la rondelle d'arrêt n° 21 et l'écrou de blocage n° 22. Bien serrer cet écrou, puis rabattre la languette de la rondelle d'arrêt
5. Quand les arbres sont munis de joints de cardan « Bendix » ou « Tracta », on monte le flasque entraîneur de moyeu sans cales d'épaisseur sur la face du moyeu. On mesure alors avec une jauge l'écartement entre le moyeu et le flasque. Il faudra placer des cales d'épaisseur correspondant à cet écartement. Après avoir monté l'ensemble, vérifier le jeu axial. Pour cela, dévisser légèrement l'écrou de roue jusqu'à ce que l'on puisse introduire une jauge de 1,27 mm. (0.050") entre l'écrou et le moyeu. Frapper ensuite avec un maillet sur l'extrémité de l'arbre de roue, l'arbre se déplacera d'une distance égale à son jeu axial. Mesurer cette distance et déterminer le jeu. Celui-ci doit être compris entre 0,38 et 0,89 mm. (0.015 et 0.035"). Sinon, il faut ajouter ou retirer des cales. Dans le cas d'un joint de cardan «Rzeppax» il faudra remonter toutes les cales d'épaisseur qu'on aura enlevées au démontage, soit 1,52 mm. (0.060") de chaque côté
6. Monter le chapeau de moyeu et la roue
7. Vérifier l'alignement des roues
8. Purger les freins. S'assurer que le joint de cardan de la fusée est graissé par le trou de bouchon de remplissage pratiqué dans le carter de pivot de fusée
Remontage de l'ensemble arbre et joint de cardan
1. Introduire l'ensemble dans le carter du pont AV en prenant soin de ne pas endommager le joint d'huile du carter corps pivot de fusée. Faire entrer l'extrémité cannelée de l'arbre de pont dans le différentiel et pousser jusqu'à ce que l'épaulement du joint de cardan bute contre la rondelle de butée du tube de pont
2. Monter la fusée de direction n°11 (planche détail du pivot de fusée et roulements de roue AV)
3. Remonter le raccord du tube hydraulique du dispositif de frein et boulonner le plateau-support de frein sur la fusée
4. Graisser les roulements de roue, monter ces roulements ainsi que le moyeu avec son tambour de frein, sur la fusée. Monter la rondelle n° 19 et l'écrou de réglage n° 20. Visser l'écrou pour obtenir un léger serrage des roulements quand on tourne la roue, puis desserrer d'environ un quart de tour. Monter ensuite la rondelle d'arrêt n° 21 et l'écrou de blocage n° 22. Bien serrer cet écrou, puis rabattre la languette de la rondelle d'arrêt
5. Quand les arbres sont munis de joints de cardan « Bendix » ou « Tracta », on monte le flasque entraîneur de moyeu sans cales d'épaisseur sur la face du moyeu. On mesure alors avec une jauge l'écartement entre le moyeu et le flasque. Il faudra placer des cales d'épaisseur correspondant à cet écartement. Après avoir monté l'ensemble, vérifier le jeu axial. Pour cela, dévisser légèrement l'écrou de roue jusqu'à ce que l'on puisse introduire une jauge de 1,27 mm. (0.050") entre l'écrou et le moyeu. Frapper ensuite avec un maillet sur l'extrémité de l'arbre de roue, l'arbre se déplacera d'une distance égale à son jeu axial. Mesurer cette distance et déterminer le jeu. Celui-ci doit être compris entre 0,38 et 0,89 mm. (0.015 et 0.035"). Sinon, il faut ajouter ou retirer des cales. Dans le cas d'un joint de cardan «Rzeppax» il faudra remonter toutes les cales d'épaisseur qu'on aura enlevées au démontage, soit 1,52 mm. (0.060") de chaque côté
6. Monter le chapeau de moyeu et la roue
7. Vérifier l'alignement des roues
8. Purger les freins. S'assurer que le joint de cardan de la fusée est graissé par le trou de bouchon de remplissage pratiqué dans le carter de pivot de fusée
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- G-Colonel
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
Well than I guess the book by French Authors is wrong ? No matter, it is very informative and loaded with pictures of jeeps in France from WWII to the 1970's. Hey Ben, if WOF produced the Rzeppa joint, most likely was the Newer style with end float controlled by Snap Ring, Not Shims.
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- Jeep Heaven
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
W.O.F supplied the Early Rzeppa Axles, and they are tagged as such. I've been watching the W.O.F. Bendix Axle claim since the 60's. It did not originate from W.O.F. but did appear in MV collector publication starting back then.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
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- G-Colonel
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
Ok, info taken down and noted. Manouka, bonne chance avec votre reparation et joyeaux 14 Juillet.
Sylvain Giraud
1945 ford gpw#269325
1950 cjv-35/U #10676
1945 gemco 1/4 ton trailer #2324
mvpa #9302
Sylvain Giraud
1945 ford gpw#269325
1950 cjv-35/U #10676
1945 gemco 1/4 ton trailer #2324
mvpa #9302
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- G-Private
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Bendix Joint and shims
Hi Everybody,
Since I raised the query about this two things have happened.
Firstly I have received some information from France which has proved to be useful.
Secondly I have stripped down the other side of the front axle. This was due to the fact that I could rock the wheel due to Kingpin bearing wear, so it had to be completely stripped down, and the knuckle etc removed.
Doing this strip down, revealed that the knuckle is in fact the Tracta type, so my apologies for leading everybody down the wrong path.
I have replaced the kingpin bearings and set their loading via the shims.
There are two things now causing me trouble.
Firstly as I pulled out C the Demi-abre interieure I noticed that A the Bague was floating loose on the shaft. The fit
of this bushing and the shaft was very loose which surprised me. I will investigate this with my parts supplier.
I will attempt to work through the description in French, in both the e-mails above and my new documentation. The book reference above is MAT. 3422-2 figures 40 and 41 from which I identified the part names.
Secondly, those shims to supposedly give some clearance at the knuckle.....I will work through the French to see if the shims are required to give knuckle clearance with a Tracta knuckle.
Well thanks for your help. I will keep looking and come back.
Regards
Dave Wilson
Since I raised the query about this two things have happened.
Firstly I have received some information from France which has proved to be useful.
Secondly I have stripped down the other side of the front axle. This was due to the fact that I could rock the wheel due to Kingpin bearing wear, so it had to be completely stripped down, and the knuckle etc removed.
Doing this strip down, revealed that the knuckle is in fact the Tracta type, so my apologies for leading everybody down the wrong path.
I have replaced the kingpin bearings and set their loading via the shims.
There are two things now causing me trouble.
Firstly as I pulled out C the Demi-abre interieure I noticed that A the Bague was floating loose on the shaft. The fit
of this bushing and the shaft was very loose which surprised me. I will investigate this with my parts supplier.
I will attempt to work through the description in French, in both the e-mails above and my new documentation. The book reference above is MAT. 3422-2 figures 40 and 41 from which I identified the part names.
Secondly, those shims to supposedly give some clearance at the knuckle.....I will work through the French to see if the shims are required to give knuckle clearance with a Tracta knuckle.
Well thanks for your help. I will keep looking and come back.
Regards
Dave Wilson
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- G-Private
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Re: M201 Front Axle -Tracta Joint and Shims - URGENT
Hi,
I refere to the e-mail from Manouka above and also the French documentation. I have obtained.
The bottom line seems to be that to set up Axle End Play you.......
You remove the washer behind the flange nut
You tighten up the Flange nut
You back off the flange nut until you have got 0.050" between nut and flange.
You tap the end of the shaft with a mallet
Shaft moves in amount of end play
You measure new gap between nut and flange.
You subtract this figure from 0.050"
If result is less than 0.015" add shims to shim pack under flange
If figure is more than 0.035 remove shims from shim pack under flange
MY PROBLEM
To start off with no shims are fitted.
When I set the clearance to 0.050" and tap the end of the shaft ALL of the 0.050" is used up thereby not giving me a distance to subtract.
If I then set the initial clearance to 0.060" this is just the same with all of the 0.060" used up.
When I use 0.070" , and tap the end of the shaft I can feel and hear and hear when the end of play is reached.
So what should I do ? I have NO shims to remove, and plenty to put in !
Is there anyone who can help me.
Regards
Dave
I refere to the e-mail from Manouka above and also the French documentation. I have obtained.
The bottom line seems to be that to set up Axle End Play you.......
You remove the washer behind the flange nut
You tighten up the Flange nut
You back off the flange nut until you have got 0.050" between nut and flange.
You tap the end of the shaft with a mallet
Shaft moves in amount of end play
You measure new gap between nut and flange.
You subtract this figure from 0.050"
If result is less than 0.015" add shims to shim pack under flange
If figure is more than 0.035 remove shims from shim pack under flange
MY PROBLEM
To start off with no shims are fitted.
When I set the clearance to 0.050" and tap the end of the shaft ALL of the 0.050" is used up thereby not giving me a distance to subtract.
If I then set the initial clearance to 0.060" this is just the same with all of the 0.060" used up.
When I use 0.070" , and tap the end of the shaft I can feel and hear and hear when the end of play is reached.
So what should I do ? I have NO shims to remove, and plenty to put in !
Is there anyone who can help me.
Regards
Dave
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