Brake pedal travel distance

[Gerwald Jaritz]

Dear friends,
My old fellow gives me some headache. Reason.: as soon as i press hard the Brake pedal I also touch maybe the acceleration pedal. seems to be a bit contraproductive. My asumption is.: The travel distance of the brake pedal is not corect adjusted.Can somebody give me the exact distance from te brake pedal to the tub surface? This info would be very helpful.Many thanks in advance have a nice weekend.
best rgds your buddy from the other side of the ocean Gerwald

[Rebel Walker]

About 3/4" with no wear in the system's mechanical connections & brakes adjusted properly.
First adjust the pedal rod to master cylinder piston to ensure there is about 1mm before the rod touches piston.
All else right & you'll have 1/2 - 3/4" travel @ the pedal top.

[Gerwald Jaritz]

Dear Sir,
Many thks for advice and reply.
best rgds Gerwald.

[dpcd67]

How do you know it's a He?
As for foot brake free travel. it is specified in your TM 9-803, paragraph 143. It is one-half inch. There is no 1mm specified, or anything else metric. No need to guess; most of what we need to know is in the TMs.
Not all, but most.

[Rebel Walker]

It is one-half inch. There is no 1mm specified, or anything else metric. No need to guess; most of what we need to know is in the TMs.
Not all, but most.

Certainly not all or even close as TM's assume some basic knowledge & skills. It doesn't allow for mechanical wear & tear on a near 80 year vehicle.

Why is there a need for 1. Brake & 2. Clutch free travel?
Does the TM explain why it's needed?

In both cases it is there to elimate problems if there were none or insufficient.
1. Possible brakes locking up because there is insufficient push rod to master cylinder piston free travel.
2. Premature clutch throw out bearing failure.

In both cases adjusting to the TM suggestions may be inadequate because of accumulated pedal system wear.

For Gerwald's information it was suggested he check the rod travel was correct first then whatever the top of the pedal was, maybe even 3/4", was what was needed.

Same with clutch, check the throw out bearing is clearing the pressure plate fingers & not spinning when the engine RPM is increased. Whatever the top pedal travel is should be fine.

In other words it is essential to know it is not the top of the pedal travel that is as important as what happens @ the other end of the pedal/linkages.

[Rebel Walker]

Also important to Gerwald is @ the pedal rod bottom are two slots. The bottom slot is pedal @ highest top slot is pedal lower.

[dpcd67]

I will always recommend going with the TM guidance rather than making up your own specs, especially for new owners.
Of course, none of my MVs actually have only a half inch of gravel, so RW's point is valid. In the real world, things can vary.
But first learn what the TM says. Fire and adjust.

[Gerwald Jaritz]

Hi my friends out there,
A very simple cause for my problem. and easy to solve. After checking the whole linkage i found that the brake pedal arm is worn out. He is wobbling on the shaft i need to buy a new one or sleeve the overdimensioned.I have more of them on hand but it seems to be that they are all to big.So sleeving willbe my next job to rescue the original parts.
best rgds and once more thanks for all your replies
your buddy from the otherside of the ocen
Gerwald

[dpcd67]

Yes that happens. How do you know the pedal arm is a He?
(That is just a lame attempt at making a joke; something many here do not understand)

[dinof]

Yes that happens. How do you know the pedal arm is a He?
(That is just a lame attempt at making a joke; something many here do not understand)

It's a she, because it is loose!

[JAB]

I know that all my jeeps are female because none were (US) Mail jeeps (ba dum, dum)