GPW Warn Hubs

[N2STOMM]

Hi folks , the rebuilding/restoration / refurbishment of my 1943 GPW continues. So far, engine, transmission, TC, frame , tub, rear differential and front differential have all been rebuilt, Some of it is to restoration quality some to motor poor repair standards. The goal is to have a quality driver. This project came with Warn hubs installed that are in very good condition . I intend to reinstall them at the cost of originality and benefit of drivability. Yes I know they drive just fine as originally built. My question is as follows: When installing the brake/ wheel hub assembly 2 nuts and 2 keyed washers are installed per original design. When I disassembled this front end, only a single nut and washer were installed on each side. Mock up reassembly seems to show there is not enough room for the second nut due to the inboard projection of the warn hub. Is that right one nut per side? Thanks Tom

[dpcd67]

Motor Poor Standard? I see a lot of those kind of restorations here! Must be a new MVPA judging category.
I put lockout hubs on most of my restorations and have not had a problem; I don't recommend not putting the lock nuts on. I don't remember having an issue like that.

[N2STOMM]

To me, Motor Pool Standard means field expedient repair, not judgeable on any basis other than "well that works and looks okay". Usually it makes for entertaining comments from the peanut gallery. Most 100 % Restorations aren't really 100% anyhow, those that are are often not driven for enjoyment. Thanks for sharing your experience with the hubs, all I had to go on was what was removed and since this project had numerous hack job repairs to the frame, everything is suspect. I could definitely benefit from a Warn installation instruction sheet. Thanks again. Tom

[W. Winget]

Motorpool standard would only apply if the item placed on the vehicle was available while the vehicle was in service. So lockout hubs would not be any standard other than "customized" which runs the gambit from V8 installation, civy radio, rollbar, seats to Slicks, so where does one stop?

That aside, I took them off my GPW back in '91 when I bought it and haven't ever had an issue with drive train running on or off road. MPG is not relevant to a restored vehicle, and I keep an eye on u-joints and lube.
V/R W. Winget

[N2STOMM]

I'm not trying to rewrite judging standards or promote the merits of lock out hubs, I'm just trying to find relevant information regarding warn hubs on GPW axles. Later after I've completed this rebuild I will be happy to share what ever I learn, but right now I need information, information that is not readily available, at least not to me. Fortunately we have this site which is a great resource for all of us, made so by all you. thanks again Tom

[dpcd67]

It was a JOKE! The OP said his jeep was built to MOTOR POOR standards. RRRRRRRR I was just trying to get some humor out of a typo.
We all know what MOTOR POOL LLLLL standards are.
My answer is that, I have installed many lockout hubs, which are fine to have on jeeps and Dodges, and I use the locking bendable washers and nuts.
Now, for the OP; realize that some lockout hubs won't work with the axle shafts with nuts on them; they are made for later ones that don't have the nuts.
I do realize that many G members do not get humor.

[N2STOMM]

Thanks, and I appreciate the humor! Unfortunately I communicate better in person, that way I can read the body language and non verbal cues. Texting is often a miscommunication with me... Interesting about the later Warn hub fit , I will try their tech support end. Monday if I'm still stumped this week. Tom.

[N2STOMM]

Thanks for the comment regarding Hub differences, that comment sent me down the research trail. What I discovered is that in 1956 or 7 Willys changed their axle shafts, Warn in response changed their hubs. Seems like a warn Hub stamped "Automatic" or are the 5 rib manual hub will work on early axles. Hubs titled "Lockomatic" are for the later CJ5 style axles. The Hubs that were incorrectly installed on my GPW were the later Lockomatic. Tom

[dpcd67]

They changed the axle shafts way before 56; check your TMs and you will see that they eliminated the outer nuts after WW2. I have owned jeeps with the threads cut off.

[JAB]

I was reading on another jeep site about certain Warn Loc-O-Natic hubs that require special spindle nuts due to the lack of space issue you mention. I wonder if you have one of those types. An internet search should yield a set of installation instructions explainging this, if that's the type you have. Did the guy that installed the existing hubs saw off the threaded end? That matters too, as some hubs won't accompodate that threadewd portion of the stub shaft.

Check out post #34 here for a start; https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/in ... post-89707

[moodnacreek]

I cut my axel nuts in half and the stub axels also to fit locking hubs on my gpw. Don't tell big V. Next year I hope to install overdrive. I have a v6 set up but I don't want to commit 3 sins.

[parker007]

I have encountered a thicker bearing i think from a newer axle which brings the nut out.

[dpcd67]

Only ones I ever had were for post war axles which didn't have the nuts; and guys with WW2 jeeps would saw the threads off.
If you already are running a V6, it now doesn't matter what you do to the axles.

[Rebel Walker]

My question is as follows: When installing the brake/ wheel hub assembly 2 nuts and 2 keyed washers are installed per original design. When I disassembled this front end, only a single nut and washer were installed on each side. Mock up reassembly seems to show there is not enough room for the second nut due to the inboard projection of the warn hub. Is that right one nut per side?

NO it is not right. Those 2 nuts, the tabbed bearing (inner) & bearing nut (outer) tabbed lock washers are all there for specific purposes.
The inner is tabbed to the hub & up against the bearing then the 1st nut is installed & bearing adjusted properly.
Next install the thinner washer, tabbed to the slot in the spindle. Fit the outer nut & tighten just enough so that washer does not turn & rip the tab off.
Now with a good screwdriver or tyre iron bend the outer washer over a hex on the outer nut ensuring this is done with on the thick portion of the hub clearly shown in the pictures. Now you have the 2 nuts locked together & tabbed to the spindle so they won't come loose or move in service.
1 nut will come off.
If bent incorrectly against the thin section, the hub's cast housing can break.
Sometimes putting a small bend outward on the outer washer before fitting makes it easier to catch on, to bend it over properly.

Yes & they did cut the end off early axles to fit some free wheeling hubs & if you post in the modification section you might avoid some of the distractive chatter.

[dpcd67]

I guess I missed the part about only using one bearing retaining nut; As RW said; Never do that. I usually don't read the posts; just answer; saves time.