question on replacement brake drums

[wsl91]

So I've spent hours watching videos and reading posts. I've looked at replacement parts sites. I'm trying to connect all the dots and I'm sure this has already been done here. This is my takeaway, please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm getting ready to pull the front drums off my GPW and can tell they are mounted behind as original. So far everything I've touched is worn out or cobbled up so I expect to find the drums aren't serviceable. So these are my statements please correct is wrong.

1. Original brake drums are mounted from the rear and the studs are swedged to the brake drum. In order to properly remove the drum the swedge needs to be cut or the stud must be drilled prior to pressing out to remove the drum to prevent damage to the hub. (I've read many of the debates and understand beating them out with nothing other than a hammer is wrong)

2. a brake shop would likely need the drum attached to the hub so that the drum can be centered on the brake lathe using the bearing races? (this is a guess)

3. major parts sellers are selling both original style drums which is mounted from behind and a newer deeper drum that slips over the studs.

4. if replacing original style brake drums would the new studs need to be swedged again?

5. If replacing the drum using a slip over drum do you need longer studs?

Thanks!
John

[dpcd67]

There is only one parts site you need to use and you are on it; Ron Fitzpatrick is paying for this site so I only buy parts from him. And he only stocks the best parts too.
Get new drums here: literally, here: https://www.rfjp.com/p-275-brake-drum-9in-808770.aspx

I place a hollow tube over the back of the stud and beat them out with a BFH. I also have a 30 ton press that is better. Do not try to press them out unsupported.
What is wrong with your current ones?
Remember if you have drums turned they must be mounted to the hub. Otherwise they will come out whopper jawed.

[wsl91]

Front brakes don't work at all, getting ready to take the drums off and inspect. I like to have a plan before taking things apart. Everything on the GPW is worn out it seems, I think the strategy is pull the drums and leave the hubs attached and see if they can be turned 1 more time. If not then separate and go back with over the flange hubs. So with the deeper drums do you need longer wheel studs?

[dpcd67]

IDK; call Ron and ask him when you order your drums. I, personally, wouldn't order parts until I TI'd the old ones. Unless you want new ones no matter what the old ones are like.

[Wolfman]

Just thinking on line. Don't have any of these pieces in front of me.
First, Have the originals checked. You may be able to have them turned and they may be serviceable.
If you remove the old drums and use the original studs, once the old drum is removed and the studs put back, they will stick through the hub farther.
The section of the stud that presses into the hub is larger and may stick out the front without the original drum in place, interfering with the fit of the slip on drum ???
Ron probably already knows the answer
Going to hang it out.
Most wheel studs I am familiar with are serrated on the section that presses into the hub.
Even if the stud shank is smooth, I would think swaging the stud to hold it in place would weaken the stud ??
Wheel studs are pretty hard.

[051743GPW]

My brakes didn’t work either, but the drums were serviceable, my problem was in the lines, there was sediment and corrosion stopping the fluid from passing to the wheel cylinders. I had to put new wheel cylinders in, but because I had the original Ford shoes I resurfaced them.

[dinof]

Maybe Ron should offer a new (NOS) hub WITH new studs pressed in, with the removable brake drums
as a whole set. By the time you take the old hub to a machine shop for new studs, it might be close in
price.

[dpcd67]

I recommend calling RFJP and discussing this idea with them. If anyone is going to respond to the customer, it will be them. Meaning, at the top of this page.

[OldPappy]

If originality is important, the original style Lockheed brake drums which mount inboard of the hubs are available new, however most do not include the slot for the feeler gauge so adjustment has to be done by feeling for drag. This is no big deal. The wheel studs for these have a longer splined section, and yes they are swaged to the hub. A special tool is available for cutting the swaged portion, then the studs have to be pressed out and replaced. Some use a 5/8" hole saw in a drill press in place of a swag cutter, and that will work, but whichever tool is used it is important to only cut deep enough to remove the swaged portion of the stud. I have seen plenty of ruined hubs where people have cut too deep.

If originality is not so important an update to the later Bendix design 9" brakes which were used starting with the M38 and CJ3 series, have the drums mounted outboard of the hubs. I have some M38A1 surplus axles from which I removed the brakes, and on all of those the studs were not swaged, but they were swaged on the same style brakes I removed from a CJ5. They do not need this and omitting the swaged studs makes servicing much easier.

If you want to upgrade to the later, and better Bendix brakes you should also use the backing plates that go with them. The backing plates for these brakes are deeper and prevent debris from entering the brakes better, and the Bendix design also only has one adjustment eccentric per shoe as opposed to the two per shoe on the Lockheed brakes.

Unless you are doing a museum quality restoration, the upgrade to the later design is worthwhile as both a service upgrade, and to provide better stopping due to the design.