Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
- YLG80
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
The original GPW drive shaft can be straightened and balanced rather than replaced : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm7DhP3M4AA
Yves
Yves
Ford GPW 1943 - Louisville - DoD 12-7-43
serial 164794
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- warbirdphotog
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
1) Thanks! It was pretty cool to see when I first viewed it. Now that I have this GoPro I hope to do some unique angles
2) Thanks! I try! I'm fully honest that I treat my Jeep like a classic car, though I try and drive it a few times a week.
I think there's a general argument between two sides of it's the axle and it's the driveshaft. I think, regardless if the driveshaft is the cause or not of the sound, this wobble issue does need to be addressed. So I agree.
I tried that and didn't notice anything different about both the rear wheels, unfortunately. And after I post the links to the two new videos I shot (will be in a different post), I think I've found the source for sure.Rob G. wrote: ↑Thu Apr 01, 2021 6:40 am4th - Possible place to look for the sound .... It looks to me, from the video, that here is a greater amount of lateral "Run-Out" or wobble of the right rear brake drum? Could it be as simple as loose wheel bearings on the right rear, which on deceleration brings the drum into contact with the shoes or backing plate as the eccentricity (out of round) of the drum rotates? Pushing the top of all four tires in and out, to see if the right rear wheel bearings stand out as the loosest, is an easy place to start.
I do agree, I think there is something up with the driveshaft, but I'm starting to think this is now a secondary issue. What's causing the wobble, I'm not sure.
Oh trust me, what you don't see is that that thing is heavily greased! If you even slightly compress the driveshaft, it gets grease ALL OVER the universal joint. Ha ha. It will also leave a lot of grease in that area the shaft slips in and out on. The reason it looks 'dry' in the area is I've wiped that area really clean.
They should be. I didn't check them with a level, but visually they look the same to me. I think the videos I'll be posting in my next post after I reply to everyone in this one will shed more light on that. I'm not sure how you'd bend the ears on those things?
Thanks! GoPro for the win. I want to do a lot of fun and unique angles with it in the future during drives.
Yes, see my next post with links to two more videos. One of them I did just as you mentioned today.JAB wrote: ↑Thu Apr 01, 2021 7:54 amCould you post another video of the rear driveshaft from the back crossmember looking forward? If possible, show the rear driveshaft, emergency brake assembly, and, if possible at least the right rear brake drum. I think I'm seeing too much wobble just out of the picture at the slip joint, possibly from the drive end of the drive shaft, and the right rear brake drum.
I'm pretty sure they are, as far as I can remember when putting the driveshaft back on. Can you elaborate more?
Where might the bend be, you think? And I've found someone with a spare rear driveshaft I hope to get somewhat soon. That will really tell how bent things are.
I totally believe that the driveshaft is an issue that needs to be addressed, so I agree. But, while I will be testing another driveshaft as soon as I can get ahold of it, I'm pretty confident with the videos I got today that the issue is actually in the housing, not the driveshaft, when it comes to the clackity sound. See my next post.
THANK YOU! I will check out that video for sure! No matter what, this driveshaft will need some work.YLG80 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 02, 2021 12:07 amThe original GPW drive shaft can be straightened and balanced rather than replaced : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm7DhP3M4AA
Britt
1944 Ford GPW #208102 undergoing restoration!
Follow the progress: http://www.facebook.com/1944gpw or on the Blog: https://1944gpw.warbirdphotos.us
1944 Ford GPW #208102 undergoing restoration!
Follow the progress: http://www.facebook.com/1944gpw or on the Blog: https://1944gpw.warbirdphotos.us
- warbirdphotog
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Alright, now that I've replied to everyone... here's the results from today's test drives.
First up, here's a video I shot of the GoPro attached to the bottom of the tub looking right at the external emergency brake drum and companion flange. It also shows the spokes of the rear driveshaft. It appears to me the transfer case companion flange and the connecting part on the driveshaft seem to be running somewhat true-ish, but it's almost like the other part of the driveshaft (the longer shaft) is what's moving around. You can just barely hear the clackity sound.
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDtInl43Q7g
Then, as requested by several people, here's a video which I think is the key to it all. I mounted it directly above the rear housing overlooking the entire driveshaft. While you can see the wobble very well, the key piece to this I wasn't expecting is the sound. YOU CAN HEAR the clackity incredibly well once I get to speed and get into second gear. It is pretty loud the entire video after that. What does that tell me? I'm thinking because this is the fourth video I've shot so far under the Jeep and the ONLY one where you can hear the clackity sound really well... that sound is coming from the housing. Possibly from the rear yoke, but I'd say it's not coming any further up the driveshaft. Thoughts?
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTbBGJjkv-I
First up, here's a video I shot of the GoPro attached to the bottom of the tub looking right at the external emergency brake drum and companion flange. It also shows the spokes of the rear driveshaft. It appears to me the transfer case companion flange and the connecting part on the driveshaft seem to be running somewhat true-ish, but it's almost like the other part of the driveshaft (the longer shaft) is what's moving around. You can just barely hear the clackity sound.
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDtInl43Q7g
Then, as requested by several people, here's a video which I think is the key to it all. I mounted it directly above the rear housing overlooking the entire driveshaft. While you can see the wobble very well, the key piece to this I wasn't expecting is the sound. YOU CAN HEAR the clackity incredibly well once I get to speed and get into second gear. It is pretty loud the entire video after that. What does that tell me? I'm thinking because this is the fourth video I've shot so far under the Jeep and the ONLY one where you can hear the clackity sound really well... that sound is coming from the housing. Possibly from the rear yoke, but I'd say it's not coming any further up the driveshaft. Thoughts?
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTbBGJjkv-I
Britt
1944 Ford GPW #208102 undergoing restoration!
Follow the progress: http://www.facebook.com/1944gpw or on the Blog: https://1944gpw.warbirdphotos.us
1944 Ford GPW #208102 undergoing restoration!
Follow the progress: http://www.facebook.com/1944gpw or on the Blog: https://1944gpw.warbirdphotos.us
- JAB
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Interesting. Obviously the driveshaft is not true, but I’m not yet convinced that it’s the source of the noise. Since you’re installing what will hopefully be a better driveshaft I guess I’ll wait for the results of that test. I am amazed by the video. Great troubleshooting tool!
-Jeff
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
If I had to guess, I would say the tube part is bent. But that is a long shot. Usually it's the splines
that are worn. Your choices are basically 1. Have a driveshaft shop look at it. 2. Replace it
with a NOS unit. Would be nice if the splines were good, and just the tube needs straightening.
I'm a little surprised that your jeep guys didn't see that when the jeep was running on jack stands.
Whatever you do, have the driveshaft checked before buying a whole new rear end!
that are worn. Your choices are basically 1. Have a driveshaft shop look at it. 2. Replace it
with a NOS unit. Would be nice if the splines were good, and just the tube needs straightening.
I'm a little surprised that your jeep guys didn't see that when the jeep was running on jack stands.
Whatever you do, have the driveshaft checked before buying a whole new rear end!
Dino Falabrino
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
To clarify what I meant by the " the ears being out of alignment on the drive shaft" was, the drive shaft yoke had been removed and then put back on the drive shaft on the wrong spline. The ears would be off by a quarter of a turn. Not just out a little because the shaft was twisted.
In I believe the second video, with camera over the rear axle looking forward, you stopped , maybe at an intersection ?
After sitting there for a moment, you started to move. When you let out on the clutch, the yoke on the pinion looked like it jumped about an eighth of a turn or more before the jeep moved.
????
How much movement is there when you turn the yoke before all the slack is taken up in the differential ???
Maybe time to remove the rear diff. cover and see what you find.
In I believe the second video, with camera over the rear axle looking forward, you stopped , maybe at an intersection ?
After sitting there for a moment, you started to move. When you let out on the clutch, the yoke on the pinion looked like it jumped about an eighth of a turn or more before the jeep moved.
????
How much movement is there when you turn the yoke before all the slack is taken up in the differential ???
Maybe time to remove the rear diff. cover and see what you find.
Mike Wolford
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- dpcd67
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Yeah, just see if you can move the output flange; maybe it isn't tight, or the bearings are bad. It should never move perpendicularly. There will always be some radial slop, for want of a better word. Backlash. And get underneath and push and pull on the shaft; that will tell the condition of the splines and the output bearing.
Just watched the new video; put a new drive shaft in it. Yours is bent; check the splines too before you have it stranghtened and reused. Drive train shops can straighten them and balance them. I had Abrahams work on one from my M37; they didn't straighten it, they cut out the tube and welded in a new one, and balanced it.
Just watched the new video; put a new drive shaft in it. Yours is bent; check the splines too before you have it stranghtened and reused. Drive train shops can straighten them and balance them. I had Abrahams work on one from my M37; they didn't straighten it, they cut out the tube and welded in a new one, and balanced it.
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
I agree I see the wobble in the driveshaft. It may need balancing that can help as well. There should be a decent drive shaft shop near him to get it looked at.
I would recommend O.C. Driveline in Placentia. They did some work a very long time ago on my K5 Blazer and did a good job. I may take my front driveshaft to them since it doesn't line up correctly.
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
I think the OP needs to get some better "Top jeep experts" . Pretty obvious to see on jackstands.
Dino Falabrino
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
1930 Model A Tudor
1968 Taco Minibike
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
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1968 Taco Minibike
- dpcd67
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Have you ever noticed that many of the maladies that occur with old vehicles occur after they have been worked on by commercial businesses/ paid "experts"? I see it over and over; rebuilt engines, whole jeeps, etc. (everything but carbs; Scout is really an expert on those).
Seems that experienced hobbyists know them better, as they should. No business that repairs new cars can possibly be familiar with these. No computer to hook up and diagnose.
Seems that experienced hobbyists know them better, as they should. No business that repairs new cars can possibly be familiar with these. No computer to hook up and diagnose.
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- warbirdphotog
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
I'll reply to everyone later today (hope to have some driveshafts to test), but I wanted to quickly note that you can't fault them at all. They are not here with my Jeep, everything is via photos or long phone calls. I don't have help with the Jeep in person, and when it was on jackstands I wasn't looking at the driveshaft but more listening to see if I could hear the sound. I'm hoping that one of them can actually come over this coming week to help figure things out better.
Britt
1944 Ford GPW #208102 undergoing restoration!
Follow the progress: http://www.facebook.com/1944gpw or on the Blog: https://1944gpw.warbirdphotos.us
1944 Ford GPW #208102 undergoing restoration!
Follow the progress: http://www.facebook.com/1944gpw or on the Blog: https://1944gpw.warbirdphotos.us
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Ok. I was under the impression that they were there in person trying to help you. What part of So. Cal are you in? Just curious.warbirdphotog wrote: ↑Sat Apr 03, 2021 8:40 amI'll reply to everyone later today (hope to have some driveshafts to test), but I wanted to quickly note that you can't fault them at all. They are not here with my Jeep, everything is via photos or long phone calls. I don't have help with the Jeep in person, and when it was on jackstands I wasn't looking at the driveshaft but more listening to see if I could hear the sound. I'm hoping that one of them can actually come over this coming week to help figure things out better.
You can see where I'm at in So. Cal.
Dino Falabrino
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
1930 Model A Tudor
1968 Taco Minibike
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
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1968 Taco Minibike
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
When I retire from my Day & night job, I'm going to do an engine rebuild. When it fails because it was my firstdpcd67 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 03, 2021 6:19 amHave you ever noticed that many of the maladies that occur with old vehicles occur after they have been worked on by commercial businesses/ paid "experts"? I see it over and over; rebuilt engines, whole jeeps, etc. (everything but carbs; Scout is really an expert on those).
Seems that experienced hobbyists know them better, as they should. No business that repairs new cars can possibly be familiar with these. No computer to hook up and diagnose.
time, I will then learn to do it correct. This reminds me of the "Jeep Expert" that did my transmission.
Dino Falabrino
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
1930 Model A Tudor
1968 Taco Minibike
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
1930 Model A Tudor
1968 Taco Minibike
- dpcd67
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Your future engine won't fail because you already know more than the average mechanic now, and you will follow the TM, and advice from here. I've done lots of them and I have the advantage of having no formal training in anything useful.
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Re: Rear Axle 'Clackity' Sound
Your right. My machine shop ( and is reputable in my area) forgot to change the valve guides (which are marginal)
and the cam bearings that are the part of the block should of been bored for the Ford V8 302 bearings, so my
oil pressure would of been better.
And to add insult to injury, they didn't balance the motor. But despite of all this the engine really runs good. But it
can be better.
Dino Falabrino
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
1930 Model A Tudor
1968 Taco Minibike
On the "G" since 1998.
1943 GPW 102310 DOD 3-3-43
1928 Model A Roadster Pickup
1930 Model A Tudor
1968 Taco Minibike
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