GPW block

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:32 am

Head came off easy, can see a ridge in the bores
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:22 am

That is one good reason to pull pistons from the bottom....when measured @ the bottom will confirm current bore size. Dinner on the table will add later. JG.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Wed Sep 18, 2019 7:09 pm

Progress
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Thu Sep 19, 2019 1:33 am

I'll be needing new valves, and pistons. Is there any brand of parts that's better than others ? I've seen a kit on ebay with all of the bits for a engine rebuild . seems that the bronze valve guide liners are the way to go.m
My first jeep had hard valve seat inserts , is that necessary these days ?
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Fri Sep 20, 2019 6:23 pm

Had some issues removing the flywheel, it was very stuck on the crank. I applied lots of WD40 and had to heat the area around the two locating bolts with the sleeves on them. Some bits of wood jammed behind the flywheel and it finally came free. Now next is: removing the studs in the block, could be tricky but I wont rush into this, hopefully I can reuse the studs . I could possibly make new studs on my Harrison lathe , I have one of those auto Coventry die head devices for cutting threads, once its set up you can make many studs quickly. I would need to find the correct grade of steel though.
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Sun Sep 22, 2019 1:11 am

The head studs are out, big relief . The manifold studs I am leaving alone, two of them came out as I removed the manifold,.. these thinner studs snap like butter so im not tempting fate. The stud remover is home made, a bit of file ground to a taper. I discovered a 17mm socket is a snug fit on the old head bolts. I applied heat to the head studs and all except one came out without too much drama, one was very tight .
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Mon Sep 23, 2019 1:11 am

I have mangled one of the small square head plugs. Is there a method for removing those plugs ?
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Mon Sep 23, 2019 1:41 am

Love to see folk get things right with home made 'inexpensive' solutions.
Type of thing we were taught to do in automotive trade training in the 60's & taught others in the 70's-80's.
Suggest replacing all head studs with equal to or NOS as the current ones are eroded & probably stretched.
Holes in the engine block need to be chased not 'cutting' tapped. Ask a local machinist for a loan of a chaser.

Small square head plugs? Please explain or picture.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Mon Sep 23, 2019 1:45 am

The little square head plugs in the oil gallery, think its a 1\8 gas thread , must be a special tool to get them out ! Not the plugs at each end , I mean the four others , two on the outside and two inside.

https://www.milspares.net.au/index.php? ... earch=plug
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Mon Sep 23, 2019 3:05 am

Intereresting discussion on threads and blocks
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/the- ... 24747.html
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Mon Sep 23, 2019 4:16 am

The CJ2 thread ~ I only casually skipped through & there appeared to be nothing offered except uninformed opinions, other than Larry? Larry obviously has some 'mechanical' teaching/learning, along the line.

Taps remove material so studs & bolts become looser in the thread.
Chasers don't remove but roll material back to reform a thread to near original condition.

Just remember whatever is being done new studs are not torqued into the block!
Only sealant to stud's thread then finger tight, plus just a tad more so no thread is above the deck.

As for the plugs they are 1/8" NPT/BSP thread from memory.
A good firm 'controlled' whack straight on before trying to loosen helps with lots of things like these tapered type plugs.

If the plug is not moving, stop & reconsider.
They are not hardened & will round off, with over force!

I don't have @ hand now to check, but maybe a 1/4" drive socket extension end or ratchet might fit perfectly.

Otherwise drill & file a square hole in piece of angle or plate then bend if needed to suit the application of 300mm/12" cresent/shifter to gain leverage.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: GPW block

Post by Wolfman » Mon Sep 23, 2019 5:54 am

I have sockets to fit square head plugs, like the oil galley plugs. They are 4 point instead of the 8 point you usually see for square headed plugs and fasteners. Work much better.
If you have already rounded the plug head with an 8 point socket, the 4 point socket may still work.
My next move would be, place a large nut over the round plug head and weld the nut & plug together. Let it cool completely and then turn the nut. Hopefully bringing the plug with it. Note: let it cool is an important step. The welding operation heats and expands the plug. Waiting for the plug to cool will shrink and loosen the plug.
If that does not work, drill & try an easy out.
Still no joy, drill and tap.
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Mon Sep 23, 2019 6:53 pm

Ok thanks . Yes I was thinking of a square 1/4 socket . And the welding of a nut , yes good idea. Is it really necessary to remove all these plugs ? A good wash out with a solvent under pressure would clean out the gunk in the galleries

I did what John suggested, removed the pistons from beneath, it worked out well .The top ring grooves in the pistons shows some slop, I've had this issue before and usually got the groove machined and spacers fitted. But think I will have this block bored, and have exhaust valve seats installed. The rod crank journals have a slight ridge in the centre , I'd say 1 to 2 thou , the shells are in good shape, probably no need to grind the crankshaft , I will measure them for roundness with my M&W micrometer. The main journals look good .

OK , the studs, yes its a tricky thing. I had a block thread let go on my XF falcon while tightening a head bolt down , I drove it around for years with that thread loose !
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Mon Sep 23, 2019 7:03 pm

What about a gas bottle handle/lever for the gas plugs? From memory about the right square.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

Mike Kelly
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Mon Sep 23, 2019 7:05 pm

artificer wrote:
Mon Sep 23, 2019 7:03 pm
What about a gas bottle handle/lever for the gas plugs? From memory about the right square.
Yes but might be 3/8" I think ? Not sure.
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