GPW block

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
Mike Kelly
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GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Thu Sep 05, 2019 6:51 pm

Hi

I just purchased this GPW engine. The seller told me it had been outside in the weather for years . I am wondering if these engines can suffer from water damage inside the block, I mean, corrosion eating away the cast iron walls ?
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Torque
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Re: GPW block

Post by Torque » Thu Sep 05, 2019 8:37 pm

I rebuilt one that looked a lot worse than that. It was a bare block missing the main caps that had been setting in an open shed for 20+ years. Was very rusty inside and out. Mixed up a barrel of citric acid and let it soak. Used rifle brushes on the oil galleys and sand blasted parts of it. Have put almost a1000 miles on it this summer, runs good.
The only thing I would question is if yours could have had water in it then froze.

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Re: GPW block

Post by Wolfman » Fri Sep 06, 2019 5:54 am

Really no way of knowing without taking it apart.
Outside. In the desert or a damp location ??
Exposed to the elements or under some sort of cover ?? Considering it was outside. First look, It doesn't look that bad. But ???
Have you tried to turn it ?? See if it will move at all or completely stuck ?? Don't force it. Owner induced damage.
Wondering why it was where it was and why it was removed. ??
Reman tag says 1944. +.020 cyl. -.010 rods and -.020 mains. Subtracts from what you have to work with.
Who knows. Could be a boat anchor, or a diamond in the rough. :D
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Re: GPW block

Post by dpcd67 » Fri Sep 06, 2019 7:49 am

What they said; iron tends not to pit as much as steel, but freezing will definitely kill them, and decades under water is not good. You will have to inspect it. What also happens is the pistons melt, from some sort of galvanic reaction (I don't know if that is right but is sounds good); when they have sat full of water for a few decades.
I have a block in my yard as a lawn ornament right now; two cylinders are blown out from freezing and half of the pistons were literally turned to powder. It could be sleeved, so most anything is fixable.
One sitting in a shed; those would be pristine, to me. I usually get them out of swamps.
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Mike Kelly
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Fri Sep 06, 2019 5:12 pm

Yes, I guess I will find out the condition of it after the head is removed , could be a major job taking the head off, might soak it in diesel for a while . I can see a vacuum advance on the dissy ??? The spark plugs look rather rusty as do the head nuts .
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Re: GPW block

Post by dpcd67 » Fri Sep 06, 2019 6:15 pm

Heads tend to come off fairly easily due to the gasket. I do use wood wedges, and screwdrivers to pry them up; just be careful; do not tell anyone.
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Fri Sep 06, 2019 6:23 pm

Will it turn over?
Unlikely to have been frozen in Australia!
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Fri Sep 06, 2019 6:42 pm

Have to pick it up from the freight depot next week . It came from a sheep farming area , Western Victoria . The farm had it in a gene set on the farm. I need to find the rest of a Jeep for the engine to go into !!!! I had ww2 jeeps back in the 1970's , I'm getting used to the inflated prices for parts nowadays ..... I bought my slat grill MB for $300 in 1976 , and a running GPW converted into a bakers van for $100 - those were the days :D
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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Fri Sep 13, 2019 6:29 pm

The engine has arrived safely. Good news, it turns over .

Am I correct in assuming the dissy with the vacuum advnance is from a Willys car ?

Gene is a non-original Auto Lite unit with G prefix ? 12Volt.
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Fri Sep 13, 2019 7:03 pm

That is good news.
Dizzy can be out of heavier Willys utes etc. & the carburettor on your engine is off something else as well.

Remember when pulling down/stripping if that is what is intended, I would recommend removing the crank first, then pulling the pistons & rods down through the crankcase rather than out the top.
This is one of very few light duty engines this is possible & if there is any rust in the bores it will be above the pistons. JG.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Sat Sep 14, 2019 1:17 am

artificer wrote:
Fri Sep 13, 2019 7:03 pm
That is good news.
Dizzy can be out of heavier Willys utes etc. & the carburettor on your engine is off something else as well.

Remember when pulling down/stripping if that is what is intended, I would recommend removing the crank first, then pulling the pistons & rods down through the crankcase rather than out the top.
This is one of very few light duty engines this is possible & if there is any rust in the bores it will be above the pistons. JG.
Yes carby is a Zenith of some kind . Thanks yes will pull out the crank first.The oil on the dipstick is black oil, no water intrusion in the sump as far as I can tell.
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Sat Sep 14, 2019 3:30 am

That Zenith carburetor looks like off an early Ford Consul/Zephyr MK 1 or 2 & possibly has a distributor vacuum advance port just above the throttle plate to sense load & vary timing advance.
Australian farm vehicles & engines had many variables fitted over time & even distributors hobbled together using bits & pieces.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Sun Sep 15, 2019 12:44 am

:shock: Looking good . Not sure how to remove the head bolts, I can see six studs, rest is bolts .Bolts might snap. Does the oil filler tube just pull out ?
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Re: GPW block

Post by artificer » Sun Sep 15, 2019 11:34 am

Edit/update: This engine's valve springs are on upside down.
Close coils go to the block on a side valve engine. Head on an OHV engine. i.e. opposite end to the keepers.
Oil fill tube does pull out but not necessarily easily.

Photo, mark & tag all parts....pistons, cam followers, valves etc.

Nothing much you can do will stop what is happening with head bolts & studs.

If the studs/nuts get moving & lockup a squirt of kroil [or similar] around the stud's nut or drip inside the bolt shank to drip feed after backing off, then leaving a while, may assist.

The backing off & not screwing off is quite important as it is when using a thread tap.

Studs screwing out with the nut is not indicative of a good result.

The studs ends corrode/expand in the coolant zone & swell, so commonly they lock in the block & break off or damage the block thread when being screwed out.

So soak the nuts well before attempting to remove.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: GPW block

Post by Mike Kelly » Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:41 pm

Ah interesting, thanks for the valve spring info . The carby will be going to my neighbour, he has a few Thames 400E vans with the Consul motor . Yes its a bit of a hit or miss thing with the head bolts and studs.... patience is your best friend in these cases. Not seen any F marked bolts .... most of them are corroded anyway , need replacing
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