FS: Original Military Field Table

Living History / Reenacting uniforms, field gear, and equiptment, Wanted, For Sale (NO EBAY ITEMS) or Trade.
User avatar
Steve Greenberg
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 4809
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2002 7:11 pm
Location: Wilsonville, Or.

Re: FS: Original Military Field Table

Post by Steve Greenberg » Thu Jun 20, 2019 9:34 am

John,
FedEx ground is the cheapest at $85.
Steve
42 M3A1 Stuart Light Tank
44 GMC 2 1/2 Ton Amphibian Truck (DUKW)


jruf
G-Private
G-Private
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2019 11:33 am
Location:

Re: FS: Original Military Field Table

Post by jruf » Sat Jun 22, 2019 1:57 pm

Steve:
Thanks; I'll have to pass.

User avatar
Steve Greenberg
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 4809
Joined: Fri Dec 13, 2002 7:11 pm
Location: Wilsonville, Or.

Re: FS: Original Military Field Table

Post by Steve Greenberg » Sun Jun 06, 2021 5:13 pm

Hello,
Still available.
Thanks,
Steve
42 M3A1 Stuart Light Tank
44 GMC 2 1/2 Ton Amphibian Truck (DUKW)

Andy Cole
Sergeant Major of the Gee
Sergeant Major of the Gee
Posts: 474
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2008 6:36 am
Location: North Carolina

Re: FS: Original Military Field Table

Post by Andy Cole » Mon Jun 21, 2021 12:56 pm

I bought one this weekend at a yard sale. Plywood top and square legs. It is dated 67.
1943 Willys MB285433 D.O.D. 12-3-1943
1951 M100 trailer D.O.D. 3/51
1951 M37 Truck D.O.D. 5-28-1951
M3 37MM ATG
M3A4 Hand Cart
Wife D.O.Delivery 7-21-1979
Boy D.O.Delivery. 2-15-2007
Girl D.O.Delivery. 4-9-2009
Girl D.O.Delivery. 10-23-2012

BAKERM38A1
G-Civilian
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2018 7:45 am
Location:

Re: FS: Original Military Field Table

Post by BAKERM38A1 » Sun Aug 08, 2021 1:55 pm

Greetings, reading about purchasing an original military field table made me want to make it so here are my instructions for making the table

PROCESS FOR BUILDING TABLE -I partially used another person’s instructions (from video and some dimensions from popular sketch on internet) to avoid reinventing the wheel. AUG21
Intro – this was my first time building a table so the instructions are not 100%. Feel free to tweak them to a higher level but I will say that I am happy with my table and the things I would change is the correct paint and putting some spacing in between the most outboard table top supports to the upright leg brace – I had zero clearance and it would be closer to the original with 3/16ish clearance when assembled
Table measures 24” x 36” and 27” tall and made from 1/2” plywood. Assembles easily with bolts and nuts, hinges, screws, a couple of wing nuts and u-straps.
BUILD LIST
• T-nuts - #10-24 x 5/16 deep (everbuilt p/n 156628). NOTE: I doubt these are original but I wanted it to be strong so T nuts are more solid than wood screws (I slightly under cut the wood so the T-nuts would be flush or slightly lower in the wood. If you do not want to look at the T nuts, you can cover the top with a thin veneer but this is above my rank
• stencil for table identification (I used what I had, ¾ inch stencil) …I’m happy
• ½ x 2’ x 3’ plywood Alternative is 1 x 4ish to end up with a planked table (about 7 planks with one or two that were more narrower to take up the uneven withs) – note this makes for a heavy table and this is a reproduction so I went with the plywood
• 1 x 6 for middle and end braces – total 7 feet long (I cut to 5 inches)
• 2 x 1 x 4 ft edge of table reinforcement
• (6) HINGES – I used Everbuilt 4-inch strap hinge p/n 697451
• (2) clamps 1/16 steel flat stock x ¾ (with wing nuts, wide area washers and narrow (pan) head bolt - ¼ inch. Appears that clamp straps are about ¾ inch wide x 2 inch long (could be less like 1 ½ – fabricate and cut back if needed -drill for ¼ hole on top and ¼ side holes (aligned for through bolt)
• (2) ¼ x 1 ¼ bolt with ¼ inch fiberlock // #8 x 2 CC wood screws for hinge to leg. Also used on opposite side (3 each) for end brace to leg – (2 each)
• #8 x 2 countersunk wood screw for hinge to leg. Also used on opposite side for end brace to leg – 2 each
• Braided Straps – try On line, I got mine from local Army Navy store
• (6) small Philips’s button screws with washers to secure straps to bottom of table
• (4) legs – straight or tapered on 2 sides (the sides that lay next to each other) – 1/4 taper bevel on bottom. 2’3” long (I selected this height on personal preference…it worked for me)
MANUFACTURING NOTE: Since this is not a shop tool but will be a finished table, cut it with extra scrap wood on bottom to prevent slivering of wood and same for drilling holes -keep it looking good!
Plywood top - CUT ½ x 3’ x 2’
Table Top outside edge reinforcement – CUT – 2’ x 1” (looks like 2” wide?) – drill 6 mounting holes per part. Make sure you move the outside positions in a bit to avoid the hinge installation
Middle, center brace – Cut board 1”x 31 1/2'” x 5” (appears to be under 1” so I estimate a standard 1”x 6” that actually measures less than 1” so this should be correct) and place hinges in place – add the 45-degree edge (3/4) cut to clear for clamp and also add ¼ bevel along the 5” side (both sides). Drill for clamps - I located the clamps so when they were assembled (table together), there was about a 3/16 gap from the middle brace to the end leg braces (a 1/6 washer can be used if the legs need to move more outboard so the legs are 90 degree vertical). I drilled for bracket 1 ½ in from edge (note final fit should have 1/16 gap each side)
End leg braces (2 different lengths) CUT (Looks like it is cut from a 2 x 6) (1) 23 “ (1) 19ish (dial in after the first end with legs is made to avoid making too small) and notch out for clamp in center (drill 5/16 and band saw to meet hole – slot should allow ¼ bolt to easily pass) ,drill for three holes to attach to each leg side. Drill for three holes to pick up the legs.
Legs – cut 27 inches (I tweaked this to a comfortable height for me) and place hinges in place. Drill for hinges
Assemble loosely where all parts go and TAC only with screw to make sure it folds correctly – do this before permanently attaching
Attach end reinforcement to table top (6 screws each). Extra countersink (#8 x 1). Sanded 220 and Elmer glued for better bond
Attach legs to End leg brace (three screws each #8 x 2inch Philips wood screws) – I added (2) extra screws to opposite side for more strength.
Attach hinge to bottom of table (and then to legs (6 screws each). Drill table top for T nuts to mount the hinges to (stronger than wood screws) – 3/16 – 24 x 5/16 T-nut. I found it would have been better if I had a gap of about 3/16ish between the end leg brace and the table top outside edge reinforcement pieces. After hinges are located to the table top, open holes to accept the #10-24 x ¾ machine screw, Phillips
Attach center table brace to hinge and then attach to (bottom side of table top) – countersunk #8 x ¾ wood screw
Locate, drill and attach clamps to center table brace with #10-24 x 1 ¼ with fiberlock nut
Finishing note for edge of plywood table top, I filled in any voids with wood putty so I would have a cleaner edge
Fabricate U bracket with ¼ - 20 x 2 bolt (brazed bolt to U bracket. Install with wing nut and washer
PAINT
Paint after assembled
OD is easy to duplicate at any good paint store and plenty of paints available from aftermarket military part suppliers
Lessons learned - look closer at wood for defects and start a small cut on opposite end of all wood cuts to avoid wood splits


Post Reply

Return to “Living History / Reenacting Wanted, For Sale”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 41 guests