WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

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DoctorCheney223
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WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by DoctorCheney223 » Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:47 am

Hi folks,

I am looking for any quantity of 105mm tank projectiles WITH intact driving bands. These are the projectiles for the M68 or L7 main guns in M60 and Leopard tanks.

Email is best contact: RCheney@BattlefieldVegas.com

V/R
Ron
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Re: WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by SGT Fish » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:21 am

I'm surprised you haven't had new ones manufactured yet. I know lots of 75 and 76mm projectiles have been manufactured lately for tank and big gun shooters. Lathe a steel projectile and cast a driving band on it, then do a final cleanup of the driving band.

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Re: WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by Dangerous Bob » Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:46 pm

Yup been there done that. That will eventually be what has to happen. But, for now it is cheaper to buy surplus projectiles. Unfortunately 4 1/4 bar stock is not cheap and there is a lot of machine time to get the profile

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Re: WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by ex462 » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:05 pm

could they be 3D printed?
The usual,gpw,m37,151,ect

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Re: WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by W. Winget » Thu Mar 14, 2019 5:18 am

Resin cast would be cheaper than 3D printing for several days.
Wood would make an easy lathed alternative if they are only dummy rounds, and a good shop would have a reproduction machine to copy an original.
Big Sky Surplus used to have them.
W. Winget
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Re: WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by Dangerous Bob » Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:48 am

We are actually shooting them out of a tank. 3D and resin will not hold up to the recoil force or give us the weight we want. Always appreciate the suggestions.
Bob

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Re: WTB: 105mm tank projectiles

Post by W. Winget » Thu Mar 14, 2019 10:21 am

Another possible solution
Order thick wall pipe to OD spec of 4" (a normal spec VS 4.1") (could be high pressure steam pipe if you really want weight)
Have a local machinist lathe a ojive mold open on one end (basically a tall bowl with a split down the middle for easy release) (Aluminum will work)
Cut pipe to length of real 105mm round body (better yet have the mill cut these to length for delivery)(my guess is this will end up at 10")
Treat mold with lamp black (soot from burning acetylene torch) as a release agent.
Insert pipe into mold with a minimum of 1" depth of steel into the lead (for adhesion purposes, need the pointy tip to stay in the shell...)
Pour molten lead down the pipe to make the ojive portion (again depth of lead will form friction fit only, unless you drill holes or leave a lip in the steel pipe for lead to lock into)
cool & release the mold portion.

Have base mold made (aluminum) that has 3" deep slight boat tail (to fit into shell case, around 4" exact) and then at the top lip of mold (basically a bowl with a parting line) expands to size of driving band dimension for about 3/4"
This is where you get the fit, 4.1" or max whatever a real unfired round calls for on the driving band
Soot the mold
Melt lead and set pipe base in molten puddle till it cools, part the mold, trim/paint your new projectile.

You then have a driving band, body and ojive that looks the part, feels heavy, and doesn't cost over $50 per shot and likely is reusable if dug out of the vehicle or backstop by sandblasting the steel thick wall (unless bent) and simply remelting the lead.

Just a thought, I know unfired originals may get pricey with condition, shipping and other considerations.
V/R W Winget
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts

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