A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

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Jeff Jensen
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Jeff Jensen » Tue Feb 02, 2021 1:49 pm

Sam
Is that a cummings B series you put in Glorifier ?
Jeff


kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Feb 06, 2021 1:21 am

Hi Jeff,

Yes, it is a 6BTA = 6(6cylinder) B(B series engine) T(Turbo charged) A(After[Inter]cooler).

The modern ones I have heard called a Chummins ie., a Chinese Cummins!

Mine is a stationary engine (= no anti-pollution stuff or electronics) that I converted to automotive by using a Bosch VE injector pump and injectors.

Pages 22 - 26 in this thread have some info about it.

Hope this helps.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
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Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Feb 06, 2021 1:36 am

Hi Halifaxgroup,

I was just flicking through some old posts and re-read yours from Jan, 2020 on p.65.
You asked about pics of the original canvas attaching loops. But it appears I never got to answering you. My apologies for letting that slide.
To answer, there is a picture up-thread from your post that shows the new ones I made, and with them is the original, albiet shortened thread, one. I think this what you were asking for. I'll help further if I can.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Feb 07, 2021 10:29 am

Some quick advice via PM/email please.

I see a set of machine gun ring legs for sale, but I have no clue of their value or availability.
Could someone advise me of the market for this equipment, via PM/email, please?
Thanks.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Mar 01, 2021 5:30 pm

Hello all,

My work has finished for now, and I very aware that I have only a few months to prepare for BTTT2021, via the Simpson Desert.
There is a wish list of things to fix/make for the 2 or 3 month trip to northern Australia.
Today I made a bit of a start on it. After some discussions, I have, at this stage, decided not to try to fit 14.00x20 radial tyres. The locally available and affordable ones are a huge 47" tall. The existing 12.00x20s are 42" tall. And I don't have rims anywhere near wide enough. History shows single Bias-ply tyres used quite successfully in sand post WW2. So, I think I'll stick with what I've got.

Anyway, as I started investigating todays' job, I noticed a distinctive wear pattern in the front axle engagement linkage. Gave it a bit of a tap and it rattled. AHHHH, the source of the annoying rattle that comes up behind the cabin and in through the rear canvas!
I fixed it by fitting a longer clevis pin and adding a spring. In the picture below, the spring can be seen, and the telltale wear in the paint adjacent the split pins. Although I said 'fixed', I haven't actually tested it yet (chuckle!)

Image


Anyway, on to the actual problem. I was concerned to notice that my reconditioned front drive-shaft has very solidly connected with the cross-member under the clutch housing. You may recall that the caster adjustment raised the input end of the front diff quite a bit, closing the clearance at that end of the drive shaft. The hit it took is adjacent the front universal joint. In the picture, the damage can be seen on the balance disc on the shaft. Its' clearance is 60mm(2.4"). I thought that would be ample, but then I remembered that there is also axle-brake-torque that will also tip the diff upwards at the input when braking.

Image


While considering my options, I noticed that the shackle was tilted rearward, implying flattened springs. Hmmm.

Image


Further, the chassis-mounted stop bracket (which looks like an after thought) has a tiny 30mm (11/4") clearance. That doesn't seem reasonable for a 6x6 truck. I did hit a couple of culverts/floodways a bit fast when returning from Corowa last year, and believe that I bottomed out the spring travel then.

Image


I decided to do some measuring. In the picture below, the gap is 178mm/7". What is your trucks' measurement at this spot, please? Thanks to Jeff J and Hammermark (mine is 5") for the sizes on your trucks, they are very close to mine.

Image


Then, with a jack under the front bumper, I raised it by 75mm, only to find the spring-to-chassis clearance only increased by 42mm!?! Hang-on, I bet the axle lifted a bit due to reduced load on the tyres and some flexing in the rubber shackle bushes. More measuring showed the axle lifted by 10mm. These measurements are a bit confusing to me, not as consistent as I expected.
Importantly, the drive-shaft to cross-member clearance was now 105mm, plenty, I'd guess.
At this stage, I am considering a 2" spring re-set. We'll see.

The 3" jacking clearly put the front of the truck higher than the rear = too high.

Gearbox-wise, I have purchased a quality infra-red thermometer gun. So now I have a reliable way to measure the effects of the lubricants I am using. First is to take a run with the ISO150 gear oil to get a first reading. Then, some experimenting. It is hot today(35degC), so I plan a long uphill test later today. We'll see.

If you have a 969, could you measure the spring-to-chassis distance as shown in the last picture above please? I'd like to have enough readings for some reliability if I can.

Have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Mar 02, 2021 12:43 pm

Good morning fellow Olive Drab addicts,

Yesterday was a bit productive for the Glorifier.

I did a road test, only to find my 'fixed' rattle isn't fixed at all. :?
I constrained several other possible culprits (wired a spring to them) to no avail, the rattle remains happy and healthy. It happens on the over run at speed. Hmmm. . . .

The main purpose of the road test, about 30kms, was to obtain temperature readings of the gear box tower. Yes, I know, not the best place, but it is accessible and easy. It was a hot day, ambient temp around 35degC/95degF. The temp very slowly climbed until I was out of town and could speed up to 35+mph/70+kmph. It slowly nudged up to a top of 70degC. To touch, this was as I recall the sort of temperature the box was always at on the trip to Corowa. I expect that is not excessive, but please comment if you have knowledge about this. The box did not overflow at the shift tower ball. Oil did leak out of the ball locating pin on the side of the tower. I had not noticed that before. It is a bit loose in the tower, but I don't see it as actually failing, just leaking. So I am going to seal it externally using a high quality epoxy that I have had good results with (Epi-Glue made by National).

Also, I did some cleaning before the road test to confirm the front diff pinion seal leak, it is significant.
Further, there was a bit of rain which reminded me that the wipers are not working correctly. They are unreliable to turn on or turn off. Thinking of fitting a small ball valve at the wiper and bypass the dash valves as a test.
The rain also reminded me that at speed, the rain blows in under the windscreen outer frame. Some time ago, during one of my always enjoyable (and often very fruitful) visits to the scrap metal dealer, I grabbed a random car door rubber to try to seal the leak. So I cut it to size and fitted it to the lip above the dash board. Fits nicely. Now, for some more rain!

Image

Image


I have no clue what model car it came from, but expect they are usually pretty similar. Here is the profile that I used, it was a bit tight but that might be a good thing

Image.


As there is a fair vibration, I removed the front drive shaft and put it in my lathe to test for damage after hitting the cross member. My lathe is only just long enough to fit the 850mm shaft. It is 0.010"/0.25mm out of straight. Also, the transfer case flange is pretty much vertical but the diff flange is 10deg off vertical. They should be parallel to avoid vibration. I will be asking a specialist about that today. I'm paying a high price to have the steering comfortable!

Image


We'll see what happens today if I don't get called in to work.

Have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

halifaxgroup
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by halifaxgroup » Tue Mar 02, 2021 3:18 pm

I measured my open cab Diamond T wrecker in the exact same place you did. Frame to spring is 7 3/8 inches, or 18.73 cm. Hope this helps.
Also found the info I needed regarding the canvas loops, good to go. Paul
1944 WC51
1944 WC62
1943 M-20
1943 Ben Hur
1943 Water Ben Hur
1944 M51 Quad Mount Trailer
1944 M5A1 Stuart
1943 352 CCKW
1944 Corbitt 6 Ton
1944 M16 Halftrack

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Mar 02, 2021 6:35 pm

Thanks Paul,

That is within a few millimeters of mine.
How does the angle of your shackle compare to mine in the picture above?

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

halifaxgroup
G-Captain
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Posts: 739
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2004 5:12 am
Location: Texas

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by halifaxgroup » Fri Mar 05, 2021 6:51 am

The spring shackle position is exactly the same as yours. Paul
1944 WC51
1944 WC62
1943 M-20
1943 Ben Hur
1943 Water Ben Hur
1944 M51 Quad Mount Trailer
1944 M5A1 Stuart
1943 352 CCKW
1944 Corbitt 6 Ton
1944 M16 Halftrack

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Fri Mar 05, 2021 2:50 pm

Thanks for that Paul.
I'll get a few more comparisons before I make a decision on which way to go.

Greetings fellow MV voyeurs,

Yesterday, I had a go at the drivers windscreen wiper. It was unreliable, either hard to start then going way too fast, or would stall at the piston-left-end-of-travel but when tapped by hand would do one cycle and stall again. It has already been apart during the restoration, not finding anything of concern. As I had a overhaul kit, fitting that seemed the next smart move (sometimes, the smartest moves escape me!! :? )
Anyway, as I stripped it down, I looked for possible problems that I had missed first time. As the piston stalled at the end of its' travel, I checked that it wasn't blocking the port that supplies the air for the return stroke. That is an external metal tube running along the body of the wiper. No problems there, as can be seen in the picture below.

Image


Removed the piston to replace the leather cups. But they seemed just as soft as the new ones. Hmmm.
I merely massaged the cups a bit to encourage better contact with the bore.
While this far into the piston, it took the 'trip arm' (my name) out just for a look, it was bent!! Thinking about it, that would have the effect of very slightly increasing its' operating length. Therefore the piston would need to travel ever-so-slightly further to throw the flip-flop valve mechanism (see p.43). Hmmmm, I wonder.
The picture below appears on p.43, but is relevant here. It shows the trip arm mounted in the piston. There are more pictures on p.43.

Image


The bent arm is shown below. So I gently straightened it with a small hammer and, for good measure, very slightly bent the end hook a bit more by tapping it on the end.

Image


Only assembly and testing would show if that was the problem. A small dribble of air tool oil was added for lubrication. And yes, it works perfectly now, very controllable and reliable. So it has been re-fitted.
The air hoses atop the windscreen frame leak despite repeated attempts to fix them. Also the dash valves do not completely turn off. So I fitted a small ball valve to the motors to stop them randomly moving the wipers.

Image


I'll try to seal the hoses again.
After quite some investigations, I have ordered a drum of Penrite Fleet Gear 50, which is a straight 90 mineral gear oil, to use in the gearbox and transfer case. It will be supplemented with 'Morleys' oil additive.
Looks like the cabin rear is going to have to come off again, more oil leaks mostly. Sigh. :(


Could I hear from a few more 969 owners with front spring measurements, please.

Have a nice day.

Sam, downunder.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Mar 11, 2021 11:59 am

Good morning industrial archeologists,

Progress has been slow, but I am plodding along in the energy-sapping humidity and heat of the Australian summer. I am very aware that I only have a few months before I head into the vast Australian outback to participate in "Back to the Track 2021" (BTTT2021). The first leg of that trip is to Alice Springs in the center of the continent and is 2700kms. No bigger than across Europe or USA.

Several posts back, I showed the bent front drive shaft set up in my lathe with the dial gauge measuring the out-of-straight. Although the shaft has heavily contacted the cross-member, I don't know if the bend was caused by that or was bent from manufacture. This is the shaft that I had re-splined. These splines typically wear fairly fast as they are spinning mostly without a load which allows the 'rattling' movement which causes a high wear rate. (Another reason to fit free-wheeling hubs/plates.)
Anyway, I re-measured it yesterday and after re-checking, came up with the reading of 0.015", pronounced "15 th-ow". This is 0.37mm. To convert, 0.002" = 0.05mm and 0.040" = 1mm. After speaking to the specialist, I learned that 0.006" is the acceptable limit. I wasn't looking forward to the back and forth of press-lathe-press-lathe-etc. Then, I learned that I can straighten it using heat, similar to shrinking panel work. So with some apprehension, I applied a bit of heat-and-quench, heating a spot to just the first hint of red steel then quenching with a wet rag. As predicted, I watched the dial gauge first increase the reading with the heat, then drop with the quenching.
The first attempt was not enough, so after re-measuring, I repeated at about 45degs rotation.

Image


This time the reading came down to 3 or 4 thou. I did lots of re-checking as the dial gauge picks up bumps in the paint, scratches and other very very minor imperfections on the surface. Good enough for me!

Image


Re-assembled and is now ready for a paint touch-up, then re-fitting later. It is important to assemble a universal type drive shaft with the universal joints aligned as they don't faithfully transmit motion to/from the shaft. By aligning them, the effect of one joint is cancelled out by the other one. I don't know how it works on drive shafts with 3 universal joints!
Also, that is why a CV joint is called a 'Constant Velocity' joint, they faithfully transmit the motion.

Currently, I am waiting for the ST90 gear oil to arrive to be put in the gear box and transfer case, and fix a few oil leaks while I'm at it.

Have a nice day.

Sam
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Mar 15, 2021 1:48 pm

I'm trying to post the next report, but Surfacezero is playing up.
See the Surfacezero threads for my post if you can help.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Mar 15, 2021 2:07 pm

Greetings fellow mechanical Masters and apprentices,

A reluctant start was made on oil leaks yesterday, specifically, the front diff. I find that it is often quite unclear exactly where the oil is leaking from. Is it the gasket, the seal, the bolt thread, a cracked or porous housing, shims or even a different component!

Being confident that the oil seal was the problem, I set about removing it for inspection knowing that there is a 1 1/2" nut to loosen to get there. To my dismay, the nut holding the drive flange (Companion Flange) was barely firm when I was expecting several hundred ft/lb of torque + corrosion/dirt/etc. This nut holds the flange onto its' tapered, keyed shaft so being tight is kind of important. Hmmm, dunno what happened there.

Image


Continuing, the seal housing was removed to find a suspect gasket. The seal surface has been machined and the seal was new when I built it 10 years ago. I did the seal lip spring shortening trick by about 1/8"/3mm, checked to find the bolt holes are all blind hole, i.e., they have a bottom, they don't go through to the inside of the housing. Cleaned it all and re-fitted with Loctite flange sealant replacing the gasket. Degreased the whole diff and went for a 15km drive. This is what I found on my return. Sigh. But I don't know if that is a leak or assembly oil being thrown out!

Image


There was also quite a bit of oil at one of the pinion carrier bolts . . . .

Image


. . . . some dampness at some shims . . . .

Image


. . . . but other parts were completely dry!

Image


Edited this post due to picture posting problems.
Have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Mar 24, 2021 12:29 pm

Greetings Olive Drab addicts,

A bit of progress is being made. As there was a break in the rainy weather, I de-greased the gearbox and transfer case then went for a 10km drive to check the worst oil leaks. And, again, several leaks are from the threads of studs that go through into the gear cases. The two worst leaks on the front diff were pinion carrier studs. To pull them, I fitted two nuts (9/16"UNF, an unusual size), locked them together and then used them to extract the stud. Thankfully, the diff oil level was below this stud height. I used GP thinners and a small brush to de-grease the female thread and the stud thread.

Image

Image


Then applied the thread sealant and re-fitted the studs. I did this on the two studs shown in the previous post.

Image


A bolt high up on the transfer case also received this treatment. Hopefully, today will be another test drive (any excuse for a test drive 8) ) and, if time, changing the gearbox oil and dealing with its' leaks.

Have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Fri Apr 09, 2021 7:21 pm

Good day to you sirs and ma'ams,

The Glorifier has been parked on the workshop slab for the removal of the front springs. You may recall that I was a bit surprised at how little spring travel was available. To improve this I decided that I wanted to reset the front springs. To be done correctly, I would need to find a spring works that used H&T (hardening and tempering) to properly condition (heat treat) the spring steel so that it would not fail and return to its' previous shape. Once I found such a business, I felt confident to go ahead and decide how much lift I wanted.
By placing the Glorifier on a level slab, then jacking it a bit at a time with the high-lift jack (white arrow) . . . .

Image


. . . . then standing back to look at it and measuring from chassis to ground near the spring center (white arrow below), repeating the process for 1/2" / 1" / 11/4" / 11/2" / 2" lift. . . . .

Image


. . . I was able to decide on an 11/2" lift. Doesn't sound like much, but it is a 50% increase in clearance at the chassis bump bracket.
Removing the springs is a bit of a tricky operation, doing each side a bit at a time as the fall of the axle housing on one side would twist the spring on the other side, so a bit at a time. The most important jacks are the ones that hold the chassis up. They have been used many many times before and are invaluable with the heavier stuff I play with. At the red arrows below, they are made from old 'Acro' props as used in the building industry.

Image


Next is a mid-night run to Brisbane (to avoid peak hour traffic) to drop off the springs and, hopefully, buy a set of 1200R20 radial tyres.
Then, I'll do some more work on oil leaks. Only about 3 months before I head off to central Australia.
I'm excited.

Have a nice weekend.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


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