A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

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kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:51 am

Good evening Diamond T voyeurs,

It has been 3 weeks since the end of the BTTT2021 trip. My energy levels has been very low and are only now starting to return.
After reconciling costs, the following details emerged. The total distance traveled was 8850kms/5530mls and the total fuel bill was AU$3450. Considering I was expecting more like $5500, it was very pleasing. Worked out at about $0.38c/km.

The mud was pressure blasted, got about 30lts of mud off it, and more to go!
I noticed that despite adjustments, the brakes weren't as sharp as I'd expected. Somehow, I joined the dots and realized that the air pressure was set a bit low, 92psi when the TM says 105psi. The governor uses a Bordon tube (I think that is the correct term), same as a pressure gauge and temp gauge. Below are some of its' parts. The black arrow is the Bordon tube that tends to straighten out as the pressure increases which pulls the shaft up at the green arrow, opening a valve that feeds air out the fitting at the blue arrow. That air then "unloads" the compressor so that it won't pump air even though it is still turning. To increase the shut-off pressure, I unlocked the locknut at the red arrow and turned the shaft at the green arrow a LITTLE bit until I had 110psi, then locked the nut again. I have yet to try the brakes properly.

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Another problem is the tyre wear on the front right tyre. It is wearing in a way that you'd swear it was badly under-inflated. When I showed my tyre expert, he immediately said low pressure. But I have repeatedly checked the pressures and there has not been any problems. OK, also caused by poor wheel bearings allowing the tyre to tip in/out and so wearing like a badly out-of-spec camber alignment but on both edges instead of only one. Today, I started on the re-pack job and you can bet I paid very close attention to the condition/adjustment of the bearings and the whole assembly too. To my dismay, all was in order - no problems found, no looseness/play anywhere. Good in one way, but now I have no clue as to why this one tyre is wearing so badly. The first picture is the wear pattern, the second is a rear tyre with a good wear pattern to compare.

Image

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The time has come to service the truck in readiness for the next event, the MJCQ swap meet in 2 weeks time. The wheel bearings should be repacked every 6000mls/10000kms according to the TM, but it has been more like 13000kms now. That is a very short interval by modern standards, but considering the felt retainers instead of seals, it is understandable. While the right side has poor tyre wear, the left side has lube leakage.
The lube is leaking from the CV housing seal, at the housing mount and the brake drum.

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So, as I need to do the wheel bearings, it had to come apart anyway. Grease everywhere!

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What perplexes me is that I have assembled both sides the same, the right side is good but the left side has always had excess grease leaking. The leak at the axle housing mount and the quantity of grease made me think that the seal in the end of the axle housing was leaking diff oil into the CV housing then out onto the brakes. So I pulled the whole assembly . . . .

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. . . but as can be seen, the inside of the diff housing is mostly dry! :? :?

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I find it difficult to see that that much grease has come from the CV joint alone. But where else could it come from? There is only the wheel bearings, the CV joint, the CV joint housing bearings, and the diff. As can be seen above, I have ruled out the diff, although I am going to renew the seal. More thought needed. Any suggestions from those with experience in this area of maintenance??

Anyway, that is all for now.
Have a nice week.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


motto
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by motto » Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:47 am

Hi Sam
Congratulations on completing the run with so little trouble. It goes to show that my fathers saying demonstrates the correct approach:-' Do your maintenance at home before you leave and you won't have to do it on the side of the road.'
A couple of things come to mind in regards to your front tyre wear. It may be related to differences in shock absorber performance. It may be something as unlikely as tyre compound or construction.
The first thing I would do is to swap the two front wheels over to see if the problem follows the wheel or remains on the same side.

Dave

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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Us645 » Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:09 pm

G’day Sam
All your years of hard work certainly has paid off on a very successful trip.I know that you say there is very little oil in the axle tube but that seal looks a little distorted in one place .Maybe just the photo angle! My experience with land cruiser hubs was that the left hand side was more likely to leak due to the road camber.
But usually there is more evidence of oil in the grease.Did you notice if that wheel bearing was running any hotter than the other side? Certainly a lot of grease been forced out. Hope you track the problem without too much drama .
Only talking to a fellow truck driver yesterday and the exact problem showed up in new Tyre after 30000 K.Tyre shop blamed shock absorbers but driver was not convinced and went elsewhere and fitted new Tyre and Tyre wear problem disappeared.So in that case it appeared to be Tyre construction/compound .
Regards
Peter

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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Sep 22, 2021 4:24 pm

Thanks for the comments Peter and Dave,

Yes, I was beginning to suspect that the actual tyre may be the problem. And, yes, the front tyres are going to the rear and a rear moved to the front on each side. Unfortunately, that is not straight forward as the rear rims are zero offset whereas the fronts are the standard dual offset. But this also allows me to swap sides and maintain direction of rotation for the radials at the same time. My very experienced tyre man said that it was not a wear pattern typical of shockie problems, they produce a helical wear pattern, he said. I didn't notice any unusual temperatures in the hubs.

I don't think I have mentioned this, but, I can't imagine a more suitable engine/wheel/tyre combination for touring in a 969 where originality is not at the very top of the list. Yes, it is a bit higher off the ground, that first step up is noticeable. However, on the road it is very well behaved, running up to cruise speed promptly, hanging on really well on long uphill grades with the easy option to down shift O.D.(1:0.78) to direct(1:1) available but not often needed. And, yes, I frequently crash the gears, mainly the down shifts! Good grief, how much practice do I need? :? :? More than once, others have commented on how promptly the Glorifier got up and cruising out of an intersection or up a long incline.

The economy really affects my decisions to take it out for a run, I'm a lot more likely to use it knowing the cost is, well, quite reasonable thank you. The Cummins has paid for itself almost twice over now. Interestingly, the economy is similar to a large modern 4WD towing a large caravan at 100km/h!!

The fitting of a 'fitted' carpet on the cabin floor and under-bonnet (hood) insulation really reduced the on-road noise to the point that neither Barry nor I used ear plugs at all this trip.

In the cold, I used the canvas door top to keep a bitter south wind at bay, we were traveling westward. In the heat of the "Top End" i.e. northern Australia, opening the inner windscreen frame barely 100mm at speed gave significant air flow into the cabin, even blew a few things off the roof console!! But the inner windscreen arm became one more thing to dodge when entering/exiting the cabin.

The awkward shaped area under the cranes bolster, near the Holmes transmission, was very good storage for tent/gazebo frame/camp beds/swags/foldup table. Fuel drums that were the same height as the rear tool boxes allowed the tea chest type storage boxes (green in the pictures) to sit across the rear body making for easy access once the tailgate was lowered and the ladder put in position. Barry used one tea chest and I used the other. Pleasingly, the canvas cover that was strapped over the tea chests kept every last bit of dust out. We didn't really have much of a problem with dust at all. Perhaps the height of the rear body had a lot to do with that.

When re-fueling, I always used the dipstick before and after. Strangely, I sometimes got unexpected readings, as much as 5% different, which I eventually put down to the temperature of the fuel.

Hi Ross!
Now, back to the wheels and grease leak.
Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Oct 06, 2021 1:27 pm

Good morning mechanical masters, apprentices and lurkers,

The wheel bearings and brakes servicing has been completed. Several problems were found, as seen a few posts back. However, most of the bearings were not in desperate need of servicing but did need a top up of lube. They have done 8000mls/13500kms, but the TM specifies a service interval of 6000mls. So, I did not wash the bearings, rather just added grease to them. It helps to use my needle greaser attachment fitted to a grease gun.

Image


This required keeping the grease in the dis-assembled hubs and bearings clean until re-assembled. I discovered that 1kg hommus pots are a good size to cut down to neatly fit in the hub and to cover the stub axle. The bearings were wrapped in newspaper to keep them clean prior to assembly.

Image

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Another problem was that one of the rear slingers was loose on its' axle. It needed some straightening . . .

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. . . then a bead of silicon adhesive/sealer . . . .

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. . . . . before assembly.

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Cutting axle gaskets.

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Another minor problem was that the axle flange cleats (inserts?/conical locks?) develop an internal burr over time from the spring washer, which then engages the thread on the stud, making them un-necessarily difficult to remove and fit. So I gave them a bit of a quick tidy up with the die grinder and a rotary fie.

Image

Image


That is all for now.
Have a nice day. Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

motto
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by motto » Sun Oct 10, 2021 5:39 pm

I have always known these split conical locking devices as collets. That seems to be the common name for them in Australia.
The name can be applied to a variety of devices that use a tapered component with split/s to apply a clamping force to a cylindrical part passing through the hollow core.

Dave

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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Oct 18, 2021 2:14 pm

Good morning maintenance men and ma'ams

During the recent service-fest, I found a problem and a handy adaption.
The axle shaft flanges are supplied with puller bolts that are square-heads and have a tie-wire hole. That is because they can't really be retained by tightening them as this would compromise the seating of the axle flange. Some have a lock nut for this reason. Anyway, their heads are very closely fitted between the axle studs and takes a bit to fit a spanner to them. Whilst I know there are different sizes of heads, this little adaption worked well for me.

Image


While contemplating the excessive leaks at the LHF axle housing, I noticed the spindle bush was well worn, being about 0.080"/2mm oversize Ø, at the red arrow below. Closer inspection revealed that the CV joint/outer axle shaft is held in place (radially) by this bush and the spline at the yellow arrow. This in turn holds the inner shaft in place, where the CV inner seal is (white arrow)! So if that bush is worn, it allows the whole CV joint to move causing movement at the inner seal. Hmmm . . .
Further, when designing the free-wheeling plates, I failed to take this support function of the spline into account. But at the same time, the shaft would not be turning, so . . ?????

Image


So I made a new bush, but sort of stuffed that too. What happened was that the CV shaft measured at Ø2.0" and so I allowed about 0.005" clearance. For the medium drive fit in the housing, I machined the bush to Ø0.003" oversize, being about 0.001"/inch Ø. Wow, I'm not good at being that accurate, it was a slow job! :?

Image


That was all good, but the bush pressed into the spindle a little tight I thought.

Image


The problem came when assembling the spindle. The close fitting bush did not clear the corrosion on the outer axle shaft between the spline and the bush running surface (between the blue and red arrows above) very well at all. But I did get into place and it is a nice neat fit. Next time that lot is apart, the axle shaft will be getting a good clean! This has also raised another potential issue, being the lubrication of the bush. There is no direct method to lube that bush that I can see. And as the whole assembly needs to be under-lubricated (by modern standards), it would seem that the grease added at assembly is all it is going to get. No wonder it was worn out!! Gotta put some more thought into that one :? .

Another mod I have come up with, but not finalized is replacing the spindle inner felt grease retainer with an O ring, at the white arrow below. A 2" I.D./1/4" sectional Ø O ring is a common size and a neat fit. I have retained the original felt carrier (green arrow) to hold the O ring, which works but is a bit tight. So I should find/make a pair of washers to go each side of the O ring instead.
Hmmm...., temporary fixes are often very permanent.

Image


Anyway, that is all for now.
Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Oct 26, 2021 1:39 pm

Hi WWW (world wide watchers),

Part of the brakes servicing was adjusting the front brake shoes anchour pins. (The rear brake anchours are not adjustable.) They are a bit hard to get at, I had to un-bolt the backing plates to force the space to fit the spanners to release the locknut, rotate the eccentric pin, and then tighten the locknut. I remain unsure which way to rotate the pins as either way will adjust onto the drum, but will approach the drum from a slightly different angle.

Image


An unexpected problem was found when swapping tyres front-to-rear-to-front. Two of the flaps(liners) had folded back onto themselves when I assembled them pre BTTT. :? I had to leave them out in the sun for a day before they would behave. I was extra careful to ensure they went together correctly this time! Assembly lube was helpful.

Image


Whilst road testing the brakes and front end repairs, I dropped in to a friend whose backhoe was well and truly stuck . . . . .

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. . . . down in a bush creek. It was very soft there and a blown seal prevented him from digging himself out.

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Hmmmm, well, I am here with a recovery truck. :D

The first attempt used a single line side pull. As the backhoe weighs about 9 tons, and mud has a rigging factor of 0.5 and slope (estimated at 5deg) factor of 0.5 ton, I estimated that a single line was all that was needed (4.5t + 0.5t = 5t). The booms are rated at 5t lift, and as this was a pull, the load on the boom would be much less than that. Yes, I did include a safety factor (20%), they are 9t cables.
But the first attempt had the Glorifier beginning to spin on the outrigger leg. So, I rigged an anchour using the opposite boom, attached to a good sized tree. This is the first time I've needed to use this arrangement. So, how tight does the anchour cable need to be? Dunno. So I pre-tensioned it to be just firm. I figured that the whole lot moves a bit as the load is applied and becomes shared across the full setup. So I needed to allow for a bit of movement that would share the load onto the truck and outrigger leg. It is important NOT to set the outrigger leg on the anchour side, you'll end up with a less stable truck and, when it is all done, a truck that is hung on its' outrigger legs!! :(

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It was the heaviest pull I have done thus far. If it was much more, I'd have been getting a pulley block out for the load cable. Once we rigged a decent chain (broke the owners chain.) and applied some serious pull, it came straight out. In about 2 meters it was under its' own power. I was happy :wink:
Still learning.

That is all for now.
Have a nice week.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Nov 06, 2021 12:46 pm

Good morning MV followers,

I had an 'interesting' day yesterday.
Amongst other things and despite being a bit tired, I decided to take The Glorifier to a swap meet 75kms distant. Had a few things to do first, eg. fit front free wheeling plates.
Anyway, I only managed about 10kms from home and the temp gauge suddenly went up about 30degs more than normal. So I stopped as soon as I could safely do so (was on a long bridge when I first noticed.). Turned out that the lower radiator hose had come off at the red arrow below. :o
No, I haven't removed the sump, it is an old picture that shows what is needed.

Image


I was wondering why the cars behind me were hanging back so far. They were getting sprayed with radiator water!
After a while a mate came out with water, I only had 7 litres with me, and in the mean time I refitted the hose. Thinking about it, there is probably well over a kg hanging on that hose vertically. So it is going to have a support bracket fitted to it, I'm thinking at the green arrow above.
What is worthy of comment is, that hose has survived over 9000miles including some very rough roads. Also, I'm very glad that it is an entirely iron/steel engine and seems to have not suffered any overheating damage at all. You can keep your modern aluminum alloy engines!!
Further, this is the first time The Glorifier has had a failure that actually stopped me on the side of the road.

There is more to report, but later.
Have a nice weekend.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Nov 08, 2021 4:07 pm

Hi all,

This took me a while as it is very outside my comfort zone.
I have put together a video of the first part of the BTTT2021 trip and used twitface as a video host.
Careful, it is over 500MB! Here is the link.

https://www.facebook.com/10000217549943 ... 9576478392

With luck, there will be more.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by D Pizzoferrato » Wed Nov 10, 2021 3:53 am

Superb Sam! Other than driving on the wrong side of the road, the video gives that "ride along" vibe that photos don't convey. Looking forward to more.
David Pizzoferrato
Pizzoferrato Ent./Weebee Webbing
Visit our Website! www.odcloth.com for your Canvas needs

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Nov 17, 2021 12:48 am

Hi MV followers,

Well, this was unexpected. I had flushed the cooling system following the roadside refill, refilled and added corrosion inhibitor then road tested it. Nearby, there is a short but particularly steep back road that I sometimes use. To my surprise, the clutch started slipping as I powered up that hill!! :o

Good grief, what does that mean? Back at home, I consulted the TM and realized that it was probably just an adjustment needed. But that adjustment is a bit complex and not just a pedal linkage adjustment. Removing the inspection plate at the bottom of the bell housing, I could see that there was almost no clearance at the throw-out bearing. See red arrow below.

Image


The first problem was how to rotate the engine by hand which was needed to do the adjustments. I decided to drill a hole in the Cummins clutch housing adjacent to the ring gear and use a screw driver to lever the flywheel around, one tooth at a time. This works well, if a bit slow.

Image


Next was to remove one shim from each of the shim packs. See blue arrow below. But, first the pressure needs to be released from the bolts which is done by holding the clutch pedal down with a block of timber jammed under the dash. Then each bolt is loosened, there are six, then rotating the flywheel by 60degs to the next bolt each time. Then release the clutch pedal and remove one shim from each shim pack, rotating the flywheel 60degs each time.

Image

Image


Re-block the pedal and tighten the six bolts. Release the pedal and the throw bearing should have gained 1/8" clearance, . . . . .

Image


. . . with an accompanying increase in free play at the pedal.

Done. Easy. Now that I know that the gradual loss of free play at the pedal indicates a pressure plate moving away from proper adjustment and soon in need of attention!

It wasn't difficult, just complex.
One more thing learned.
Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
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Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Nov 17, 2021 5:48 pm

Hi all,

Here is the second installment of BTTT2021 video.
This is briefly covering the trip from Birdsville to Alice Springs and some of the activities at the National Road Transport Hall Of Fame. Careful, it is 1.1GB!

Opps, this video has been updated so this link does not work. Go down thread a couple of posts for the new link.

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by gerrykan » Thu Nov 18, 2021 4:08 pm

Fantastic video Sam, thanks for posting.
Roy

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Nov 21, 2021 11:22 am

Greetings various viewers,

Here is the second installment of BTTT2021 videos.
This is briefly covering the trip from Birdsville to Alice Springs and some of the activities at the National Road Transport Hall Of Fame. Careful, it is 1.1GB!

Anyway, here is the link to the updated second video.
https://www.facebook.com/10000217549943 ... 044740401/

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


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