A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Military Trucks 2 1/2 ton and greater, Wanted, For Sale (NO AUCTION or EBAY), and Knowledge Base

Moderator: kw573

Post Reply
kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:16 pm

Wow, Dave, that's humbling. Thank you so much!!
We are here to help each other, I'm glad people feel my jottings are of good value to them.

Here are the brackets test assembled before . . . . .

Image


. . . . welding them to the remains of the original brackets.

Image


Then lots of this (needle gun) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Image


A picture missed earlier, the chain tensioner system. It is just a slide with a shaft welded to it.

Image


At the left is the bottle of Phosphoric acid I use, at right is a bottle that I decant into at 5%. It is an old phosphoric acid-based propriety bottle.

Image


Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:05 pm

Hi all,

The Holmes transmission is ready for assembly . . . . . I think. But I don't have easy access to a good workshop press to do that on. I managed to get a bit of time on a press, but not enough to finish that job. I had to lockup and return the key. I need to buy a press. Yes, I know, I can buy a Chinese 50ton (good for about 35ton!) for under a grand. I'd rather spend twice that on a vintage Apac or Servex 60/80 ton press even if it needs some repair. Good presses are around, but $2500 - $6000 here.

Before assembly, I dressed up the drive 'dogs' with a wafer disk holding the grinder in the vise, taking care not to overtighten it and distort the plastic grinder body. It works well.

Image


Here, I have pressed the worm onto the shaft (remembering to positioning the larger gear first) over its' two woodruff keys. The top gear and collar are just sitting there to check I haven't made a mistake.

Image


This is a closer look at the 'dog clutch'. The black arrow shows the selector groove in the sliding driven, um, 'collar'. It slides on the mainshaft spline (red arrow) and has three engagement 'dogs' on each side, one is shown at center green arrow. The left and right green arrows show the corresponding 'dogs' on the driver gears. The larger gear, at left, is the winch-in gear and the one at the right is the winch-out gear, I believe. It makes sense to me that the larger gear will give a lower speed = higher power. Also, the larger gear dogs were much more worn than the smaller gear dogs. If you are trying to get your head around that, remember that these gears are driven from the input shaft. That makes these gears both a 'driven' gear (from the input shaft) and a 'driver' gear (to the sliding collar).
Anyway, the collar slides to engage its' dogs with those of a gear and thus provide drive through it to the spline/shaft/woodruff keys/worm and the the worm wheel. My head hurts, . . . again.

Image


It is the same arrangement as motorcycle gears, or at least how they use to be. These 'dogs' are what clunk and grind when engaging any of the WW2 US worm winches on cranes and the like, and why they need to be slammed into gear, which is counter-intuitive to usual gear engagement :? :? . Vehicle winches usually don't have this mechanism as they are controlled through the PTO/gearbox.

The bearings are 6406 deep groove ball bearings. 30mm ID/90mmOD. These are a heavy duty bearing which I managed to find locally at about internet prices. Yeah!! The first '6' means ball roller, the '4' indicates the strength (heavy duty) and the '06' indicates the I.D. in mm in increments of x5 (6 x 5 = 30), but not always, eg, an '01' is 12mm IIRC!
Two of them came with 'slingers'(shields?) on both sides . . . .

Image


. . . . of which I pried one off of each bearing, very easy to do, to let the gear oil flow freely to it. They are very light and don't actually seal, I don't know why they use them.

Image

Expert comment welcomed!

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

mudflap
Sergeant Major of the Gee
Sergeant Major of the Gee
Posts: 356
Joined: Sat Dec 28, 2013 1:07 pm
Location: SE MI

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by mudflap » Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:30 pm

Hi Sam,

The shields are to keep debris (presumably pieces of gear teeth, in this case) out of the bearings.

Here is an excerpt from an old Hyatt Bearing Engineering Handbook that I came across:


Capture.JPG
Capture.JPG (71.04 KiB) Viewed 2711 times

Gotta love the term: "Highly Injurious". :).

Enjoying your posts as always.

Take Care,

Bob

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jun 12, 2018 1:34 pm

Thanks for that Bob,
I thought that their point was a bit mute: if there is big debris that the shield will keep out, then there is small stuff it won't, . . . and big debris means it is time to immediately disassemble. My 2cents.

I have been making slow progress on the Holmes frame. The bracket that ties the base of the frame to the base of the bolster mount was bent, allowing rust to build up behind it. Before straightening it, I removed the bulk of the rust with a wafer disk and then hit it with an F.B.H. (fairly big hammer :wink: ) and re-welded it.


Image


I frequently remove a grinder guard to allow better access, but it is a bit of a 'Russian roulette'. I had become a bit complacent about it and wasn't replacing the guard when I should. The wafer disk doesn't pose much of a risk, I think, being so light = not much energy if thrown. But, I have met people who have needed stitches from them! Then I lightly touched my knuckle with a grind stone and have been wearing a small dressing for 3 days. I put the guard back on and took myself to a corner and gave myself a bit of a talking-to!!!

Then welding the tips back on the welding bottle rack . . . .

Image


. . . . and a couple of other small jobs before it was time to lay the frame down to access the under sides. Ah, I love my Kenworth!!!

Image


This shows the work in progress. The lighter coloured steel has been treated with phosphoric acid and after a wipe down with thinners, will be ready for an undercoat of 'super-etch' as a primer. It is clear that many less accessible parts have never had any coatings applied to them. They will be cleaned (some not so much due to difficult access) and painted. I wonder how complete the job would have been if I had sent the frame out for sand-blasting.

Image


I then managed a good look at the rust under the bottle racks. Hmmm, that is going to have to be removed to clean properly.

Image


And I am almost ready to assemble the transmission.

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Jun 13, 2018 12:49 pm

Some more odds-and-ends . . . . .

I reconditioned pair of 1 1/4" spring washers. I really notice the difference in the tensile strength of washers when I do this. Also, if they fail, they were already cracked, although they looked fine.

Image

Image


It was time to test assemble the transmission. The idler gears (the two smallest ones) are what reverse the direction of the drive to allow un-winding the winch under load. The middle gear goes on the input shaft.

Image

Image


As an aside, this is something I wish I had a long time ago, a set of crane scales. These are Martin-Decker metric 2 ton scales and I couldn't pass them up for the price. This is how I know that the Holmes transmission weighs around 120kgs! Can anyone tell me how to calibrate them? They read about 5% low.

Image


When I turned the frame over, I was a bit surprised to see how bad the crack was on the 'bolster tie' bracket (my name).

Image


Couldn't leave that, it was ground out and welded. This crane has done some heavy work at some stage and been used with modifications that have weakened it. More on that later.

This repair is on the bolt that holds the outrigger leg bracket onto the top of the Holmes frame. The nuts are there to keep the weld spatter out of the threads . . .

Image


. . . . opps :oops: . You'd think I could weld by now!!! :roll:

Image


That's all for now.

Have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun Jun 17, 2018 1:47 pm

Greetings on a chilly morning.

Winter is making itself felt, 8deg C outside this morning. I know, that is warm in many places, but not here. And it slows me down heaps, can't paint until the sun warms up the parts, short days, etc. Not my favorite time of the year.

Some more bits 'n' pieces I've been doing.

When I was dis-assembling the Holmes operating controls, I damaged the retaining washer on the end of the throttle control/winch control lever. It was not obvious what it was due to rust. Turns out the throttle lever is a tube that slides over the winch control lever and is kept in place with a washer that is peened onto a boss on the end of the lever shaft.
So I dressed down the end of the shaft, re-machined the boss . . .

Image


. . . and fitted a replacement washer.

Image


While I was at the lathe, I did a job on the input shaft seal recess. In sourcing a replacement seal, I found the seal to be an unusual size, 50.4mm O.D.. That does not match, . . well, anything! Two inches is 50.8mm, and it is not a match to anything imperial unless you go to 1/128" sizes. Turns out my mate, also a MV parts dealer, has these odd sized seals that are rare, hard to obtain and therefore, about 3 times the price of a similar sized seal. They fit the PTO on some Dodge truck . . . apparently. For price reasons, but also, serviceability, I machined out my housing to 51mm . . .

Image


. . . . to take the very common size seal. Note that I needed to remove only 0.3mm of material = 0.6mm diameter increase = 51mm. And then it worked. The trickiest part of the job was setting up the odd shaped housing in a 4 jaw chuck. For those not familiar, a 4 jaw chuck is more accurate and able to hold more complicated shapes than the more common 3 jaw chuck. But, it takes much more time and skill to set up the job. The 3 jaw chuck is self-centering, so a lot quicker to set up, but is less adaptable and less accurate. Experienced machinists can set up a 4 jaw chuck amazingly quickly. Takes me ages!!! :oops:

Image



Now, this has got me wondering.
This is the input shaft of the first Holmes transmission I dis-assembled. This significant damage lies at the position of the bearing behind the seal. What caused that?????? :? The shaft is worn, but there does not seem to be signs of the bearing spinning on the shaft. And the shaft is not particularly hard, I can file it. The damage is irregular all the way around but the shaft seems to still be quite straight. The inside of the bearing showed nothing unusual when dis-assembled. I've never seen anything like it. I wonder if it is a manufacturing fault (of some sort) that was there before the transmission was last assembled?

Image

Expert comment welcomed. (Surely there some mechanical engineers close by?)

Enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 1:51 pm

Continuing . . . .

Bolster tie bracket repaired . . . .

Image


. . . and the considerable shaft that mounts the winch drums onto the Holmes frame, complete with considerable rust damage. The deeper rust pits were welded up and finished with putty. I am confident that the shaft is heavy enough that the welding heat hasn't distorted it.

Image


The drum end caps cleaned and repaired ready for paint. These caps carry the square boss that allows the original hand crank lever to be used, and are also hollow to allow access to the grease nipple to lube the drum bushes. One of these bosses was suffering from some inappropriate attention from a hammer at some stage! :cry:

Image


The drive pinions had also been attacked with a hammer, presumably to get them to slide into or out of gear. I removed the burrs but am leaving the teeth ends as is.

Image


The other end of a pinion had also been belted (thanks :? ), partially collapsing the selector fork groove.

Image


Test fitting the selector fork to the pinion groove. Both forks were bent out of shape. They are made of surprisingly soft steel, and so it was not difficult to straighten them.

Image


This is a new tool to me and worked well to remove the surface rust from the roots of the gear teeth. The bristles are nylon, impregnated with abrasive and it is a low speed tool, < 2500rpm.

Image


The drums did not require any repair, thankfully, just cleaning (pictured), rust treating and paint.

Image


More to come.

Enjoy.
Sam
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 2:11 pm

Unusually, the parts manual is silent on this fastener, the bolt (or . . .?) that holds the selector fork in place on the Holmes frame. The hole in the fork suits a 3/8" bolt and the bracket on the frame has a 3/8" UNC thread. So, OK, I'll just put a bolt in it.

Image


But I don't want the fork to pivot on a threaded part of the bolt. So I went looking for a suitable bolt and found these. On the left is a 'cap screw' = full length thread = not suitable, at right is a bolt with too much unthreaded shaft that will interfere with the thread in the bracket before it is tightened to a good position. The middle bolt has a good length of unthreaded shaft, and, bonus, it is an original ww2 bolt (as evidenced by the much thicker head). I'm gunna use it!! :D

Image


Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:34 pm

Hi everyone,

The Holmes frame was turned over yesterday and given a double coat of colour on the previously inaccessible parts. Hopefully today, I'll be able to stand it up for a final double coat of colour. As the days are cool, there is only a couple of hours in the middle of the day that are warm enough.
I was talking to an automotive paint rep who commented on 'relative humidity', meaning that although the humidity is low, say 30%, the low temperature won't hold the moisture like warmer air will and will behave more like 60-70% humidity. This can affect paint quality. Expert comment welcome.

Anyway, some random Holmes parts have been seeing some attention.
This is the linkages that connect the control rod levers to the transmission control levers. They are adjustable by bolts sliding in slots. Cleaned, painted, new nuts fitted, original bolts and pins retained.

Image


Then I found this, welded repairs on the boom pivot, perhaps the most heavily loaded bracket on the cranes. I noticed it when I test fitted the bracket to the frame. It wouldn't sit flat but touched the frame in only one place with a good 1/4" gap in other places.
The welds . . .

Image


. . . which I ground down flush to try to improve the fit . . . .

Image


. . . only to find that it has a major twist in the flange that should sit flat on the frame top plate. :x
How did they bend that???? :roll: :roll:

Image


I think I'll see if there is a good one on my spare set of cranes.
The next part I tripped over was the boom topping bracket/pulleys assembly. So I started on them. The pin is 1 3/16" diameter, which is almost exactly 30mm. All of the pulley pins need to be replaced.

Image


Hmmm, time to think about actually using these cranes in the future. I intend to have the truck operational and, indeed, use it as a tow truck, as opportunities allow. To eliminate a possible weakness, I will not be doing a suspended tow on-road while relying on the cables/winches. Both the topping cables and hook cables will be relieved with chains. To this end, I need to provide geometrically correct anchours at the top of the Holmes frame to attach the chains. The current plan (subject to change if someone who actually understands what I am doing has a better idea, I'm making it up as I go!!) is to make the pins 2x3/8" longer to allow a flat plate to go on each end of the pins to which I can then attach chains.

Below is a repair to the topping cables guide that I have seen on other cranes. It will be removed and the wear repaired. How easy that will be will depend upon whether the guide is made of cast steel (easy to weld) or cast iron (hmm, I'll have to think about that one).

Image


One of the pulley grease nipples was destroyed. They are a press fit, not threaded - bugger.

Image


But the hole is the correct size to tap a standard 1/8"NPT (National Pipe Taper) thread . . . .

Image


. . . and so fit a standard grease nipple. I may need to grind one side off it as the clearances are tight there. That is probably why the pressed fitting was used in the first place.

Image


The bushes seem to be in good condition.
Progress continues, . . slowly.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:07 pm

Hi all,
A bit of a milestone yesterday as I completed the painting of the Holmes frame and stood it up ready to start fitting the many parts that go on it. So back to the many, many small jobs to do for that.

Straightening the selector groove on the winch pinion gear. I tried to pry it with a pair of larger tyre levers, no chance. But the pipe wrench worked fine. These are strong tools!

Image


Then, back to the topping cable guide, which helps to align the topping pulleys bracket when the boom is swung out. I cut off the added plate (see previous post) expecting to see considerable wear under it. Not so, only minor wear was evident.

Image


So I laid down some brass (brazing) to reduce future wear on both the guide and the cable. It is a bit difficult to see in the picture below as I have already primed it.

Image


From driving the Glorifier, the drivers seat cushion is way too hard for longer trips, so I wanted to replace the gym mat foam in it with something a bit softer. Ordinary mattress foam is way too soft for seat base cushions, but OK for seat backs. Some time ago, I was helping Dennis with his FWD seat cushions and we were able to get carpet underlay foam at the right price (free). This turned out to be noticeably comfortable, but we haven't done a long trip yet. Anyway, I decided to try it. Also, I remember years ago Neil Swizler (R.I.P.) telling me of his very effective cushion redesign in his much traveled MB/GPW. Turns out that the 'slab-of-flat-foam' cushions are not very good ergonomically, concentrating the body weight on a small area right on the bum-bone. Neil realized this and made his seat with a upward slope that allows the spreading of the body weight onto the under-thighs and thus a much more comfortable seat for longer drives.
So, I took some measurements and worked out that I needed about a 3" rise from back to front of the cushion. Cutting that in foam was going to be a major mess for me, then I realized I could cut each layer 2" shorter that the next one and I got this . . . .

Image


. . . . which seemed to work fine when I sat on it in the cabin. So I glued them together using spray contact adhesive (expensive, but very easy to use) and fitted the new cushion in place . . . .

Image


. . . . and took it for a short drive. . . . . . luxury!!!!! :D :D :D Feels like a lounge chair (compared to the old one).
So, I'll trim it, fit the existing canvas cover and look forward to a longer trip.

Another issue when driving was access to the indicator switch stork. Realizing that the seat is well to the left of the steering wheel, I switched the switch (huh?) to the left side of the steering column making it much easier to use.
Another win! :D

Image


More progress made!
Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat Jun 23, 2018 1:14 pm

Slow progress continues. . . .

. . . after finishing painting it, I had no reason to not fit the winch drum shafts. A single bolt and large washer retains it in the frame. 3/4" UNC = 220ft/lb torque, according to the generic torque chart I use.

Image


And couldn't resist test fitting the winch drums . . . .

Image


. . . even though all that is left to do for them is to flush out the grease galleries in the shaft with fresh grease. But my grease gun is empty and it was the end of the day and I did not want to do the messy job of recharging it then.


The next part to attract my random attention was the luffing winch. Luff = boom raise/lower. These parts were cleaned and painted a few years ago, but putting them together took a bit of thinking, there is not a good picture in the parts manual. The drum is driven by a pinion which mounts on the shaft which takes the hand crank lever. This shaft also mounts the ratchet gear and its' pawl is mounted on the drum shaft.

Image


This ratchet/pawl mechanism is critical to the operation of the booms, and I can see that it could easily go out of control for an operator who was taking it too cheaply. How this ratchet mechanism works can be see below. The pawl can over-center to against a pin (cast in the housing, can be see above it), to be clear of the ratchet gear.

Image


A detail picture of the shaft/spring assembly that keeps the pawl engaged with or clear of the ratchet gear.

Image


More progress made! :D

Have a nice weekend.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jul 10, 2018 4:15 pm

Hi all,

Work slowly continues on the Holmes cranes.
I had noticed that the pins for the pulleys and booms were very loose in their brackets. It wasn't wear as the holes still had the rough cast surfaces, clearly original. However, I can not abide this sloppy fit. So I made up some mild steel bushes to make the pins a "light drive fit" in their brackets.

Image

Image


As the finish in the hole is cast, I can tap the bush in and it won't move when I tap the pin into place . . . perfect!

Image


The pins are 1 3/16" or 1.1875" diameter, which proved to be an unavailable size hereabouts. I managed to buy a length of 1 1/4" diameter rusty bar cheaply to turn the pins out of.

Another problem was this. I had test fitted the transmission shafts and was tapping the housing back off the bearings when this happened. I didn't think I was hitting that hard. This picture also shows some of the preparation to repair it. A simple grinder test showed it to be cast iron (little or no sparks) = expensive to weld.

Image


Anyway, a close inspection of the break surface showed why it failed. At the lower edge of the break surface can be seen a thin light coloured line indicating freshly exposed (broken) cast iron. The darker surface above it indicates that this surface has been exposed to the elements for some time, hence the rust. So, it was already cracked most of the way through!! Phew, thought I was loosing my touch!

Image


The simple repair method was to braze it together after vee grinding, and, importantly, file finishing the vee. This is because the grinding process is a scraping process which wipes lots of the free carbon in the cast iron onto the surface to be brazed. This is a contaminate problem. But grinding is quick. So, finish with filing, which is a cutting process and doesn't contaminate the surface much at all. I also used a die grinder with a cutter "burr" a bit.

Image


To paint this, I have to start with an etch primer as the usual primers won't stick to the non-ferrous brass.

More jobs done.

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Jul 11, 2018 2:47 pm

Hi Ladies and Gentlemen,

Assembly of the Holmes transmission has been taking some tangible (and encouraging) steps forward. After some doubts about the proper seating of the bearings on the shafts, I re-pressed them without any change, so one shaft is 2mm longer than the other!

Anyway, it is going together nicely.

This is the input end, showing the input shaft and the bracket extensions on the over-run brake housings that are captured by the input shaft. Pretty agricultural, I thought.

Image


And the other end . . .

Image


. . . . then the bearing housings being fitted.

Image


This one shows the idler gear shafts fitted, but the nuts not yet tightened.

Image


The next item was the selector collar . . . .

Image


. . . which has these arms to engage the pins.

Image


It was going to take some adjusting after assembly. The arms (below) slide on their shaft and key, and so have to be the right distance apart. But then I realized that they also have to be the correct distance from the side of the housing. This could only be done after the selector mechanism was fitted, gasket and all, to the transmission housing. A simple adjustment.

Image


The idler gear and shaft reverses the drive to allow power-out winching under load. The notch in the end step of the shaft is, clearly, an oil catcher to lube the shaft and bush.

Image


And partly assembled. All the rust that can be seen are hard, stable stains only.

Image


Enjoy.

Sam.
Last edited by kw573 on Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:15 pm

Hi all,

Amongst other things, I've been doing a bit of lathe work.

This is the tapered end of the luffing winch ratchet spring seat, I'll post a picture of it as it is being assembled. You can see the old one in a picture a couple of posts back.

Image


And I have manufactured about 8 pins . . . .

Image


. . . including the pivot pin for the overrun brake which has an eccentric pin in the end. Time to use the 4-jaw chuck again. Here, I am starting the hole with a 'centre drill' which won't wander and so starts the hole in the correct place.

Image


This is manufacturing the pin that holds the ratchet spring for the luffing winch.

Image


A while back, I was using the step drill on the headlights, I went one step too far :? . So I used an O ring as a depth stop. Worked well.

Image


Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.

kw573
G-Colonel
G-Colonel
Posts: 1232
Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:48 pm
Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Tue Jul 17, 2018 1:45 pm

Hi all,

I did the last bits before fitting the 120kg transmission, so . . .

Image

Image


. . . . so then I could fit the chain tensioner mechanism which has a long end (passenger side, had to check the TM!) and simply sides into position and tighten the bolts.

Image


Next was the control linkages, simple! NO! What a jigsaw puzzle, I had to look at the other set of W45 cranes several times. Here are the parts ready to fit, . . . and remove/ refit . . . and remove/ refit . . . and remove/ refit . . . !! :? :?

Image


Eg., this spacer goes on the top rod at the left side . . or right side?

Image


And how's this for almost identical parts, complete with the same part number!!! Can you spot the difference?

Image


And the adjustable links to the transmission selector arms, complete with an almost totally inaccessible grub screw at the bottom of the arm.

Image


Anyway, it is almost all fitted now, just the handles to go. How hard can that be?

I am fairly sure that the Holmes W45 model cranes were exclusively made for the military and are an adaptation of the civilian W35 cranes of the 1930s. The only difference is that the outrigger legs were added to the W45 sets. Can anyone confirm this for me?

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
MB-T trailer.
Diamond T 969. ('The Glorifier')
Diamond T 969, rusty, complete, for sale.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker x 2.
M2A1 white HT. ('Clarrie')
Light Recovery Trailer (Ford?).
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.
Air compressor trailer, 100c.f.m.


Post Reply

Return to “Trucks 2 1/2 ton +”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 44 guests