A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Military Trucks 2 1/2 ton and greater, Wanted, For Sale (NO AUCTION or EBAY), and Knowledge Base
Joe Gopan
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Joe Gopan » Sun May 19, 2019 6:27 am

No idea where myORD 9 is, the speedometer drive is on the intermediate shaft cover, does yours show a choice of different speedometer drive parts with that cover?
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HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
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kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sat May 25, 2019 1:53 pm

Hi all,

Joel, there are two gears listed in my ORD 9 SNL G-509. DT-DX5609 and DT-DX5610. The second one has a key listed with it, the first doesn't. No other information is shown. That implies to me that the key is the only difference, but ISTBC.

Yesterday, I went up behind my place and retrieved a chassis section with WW2 turntable that I had put there over a decade ago. As it was now surrounded by sucker regrowth, I couldn't get a vehicle near it, but the hook cable was plenty long enough.

Image

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As expected, it was a ton of fun using the W45 wrecker gear. The W45 certainly has its' foibles.
I learned that the outrigger legs that are designed to give lateral stability are placed right where the boom needs to go for a side pull. So the leg needs to be swung further toward the cabin to make room for the boom. It is also right where the control levers are! See picture above.
And those legs are heavy! I'll be able to gauge my strength on any day as the years roll on by how much effort it takes to rig and stow them!!!

Another problem is how the cable rolls onto the drum under load. As the nearest pulley is less than 3'(1m) from the drum, the fleet angle is very pronounced toward each side of the drum. The fleet angle is the angle away from 90deg that the cable makes with the axis of the drum shaft as it feeds onto the drum. The more the angle, the greater the natural tendency for the cable to jump across to the center of the drum and pile up. Which is what it did. This means that after each exercise, the cable needs to be run off the drum and re-laid under light load.
In the picture below, it doesn't look too bad, but there is lots of crossed cables under the top layer!

Image


I also calculated that one litre of fuel is 1.75mm deep in the fuel tank. I think I'm going to make a graduated dipstick to use until I can trust the fuel gauge.

Anyway, have a nice weekend.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

Joe Gopan
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Joe Gopan » Sat May 25, 2019 4:33 pm

I have a few Diamond T Speedometer cables for those with the later military round Speedometers. They have a "blade" type drive at the transfer case end and the standard square drive at the speedometer. They were sold to me as CCKW replacements. Untill my G-509 Ord 9 surfaces, I have no references that give a hint why your Speedometer registers the way it does. I still suspect that there is supposed to be an adaptor at the transfer case that is calibrated to be in synch with your speedometer.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun May 26, 2019 1:26 am

I wouldn't discount a problem in the tumblers that pulls over another 10 miles at random.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Sun May 26, 2019 2:04 pm

Hi all,

I've been repairing the bracket for the 1qrt CCl4 fire extinguisher. It is mounted just inside the drivers door. CCl4 is Carbon Tetrachloride (tetra = 4) which is now known to be a carcinogen and so no longer used. The straps break off and are lost somewhere.
So I unriveted the strap brackets, . . . .

Image


. . . . pried the tabs open to release the strap and made a new strap from 3/4" wide packing strap. Here, I am bending it to shape on its' bracket with support to keep its' shape. I just hit the inside corner with a blunt cold chisel.

Image


Then I had a go at the little locking tab. I goofed in that I used 1mm steel instead of 1.2mm steel. Didn't think it would be a problem, but I can notice the difference. Firstly I rolled the end around some 1/8" wire and marked out the tab. I rolled the end as one piece and will cut out the segment later, much easier to shape it that way.

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A good set of vice jaws and a sharp cold chisel (. . and a pair of glasses!) will do a surprisingly good job at opening out the tab, . . .

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Image

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. . . then hammer it all flat and file/wire buff off the burrs. Bend around a suitable mandrel, . . .

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Image


. . cut, chisel and file the centre segment . . . .

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. . . and done. Also made the loop from plain slightly stiff 1/8" wire.

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I used my newly learned skill to make the rivet that the locking tab pivots on. Painted and ready for fitting.

Image


I don't have an extinguisher for this bracket, I'll pick one up at a swap meet or somewhere. They are the same size as on the MB/GPW Jeep, I believe. Anyone?

Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.


Joe Gopan
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Joe Gopan » Sun May 26, 2019 2:33 pm

Amazing!
The Standard Fire Extinguishers of that type back then were 1 Qt.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Fri Jun 07, 2019 12:46 pm

Hi all,

Back on p.59, we talked about a set of W45 cranes and a DT 6x6 in an Australian auction.
The cranes sold for a whooping AU$3400 (app. US$2500) :o and the truck fetched a handsome AU$4300 (US$ 3500) IIRC.
Looks like there is plenty of interest in this stuff downunder!

Can anyone post pictures here for all to see?

John,
there is also a larger extinguisher to be mounted, perhaps 2 Qrt. More on that later.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Jun 12, 2019 2:09 pm

Hi all,

A few things have been happening, although the short cooler days are taking their toll.

I have been experimenting with more comfortable seat base cushions. I have found carpet underlay to be surprisingly comfortable for this. Layering the foam to give a sloping seat gave even better results. The first attempt was on the drivers seat base, where each layer was 2" shorter than the one above it. This worked well. Then I gave a mate a drive and I sat on the passenger seat, it was like a slab of timber! So I made up a new cushion for it, but this time, I made each layer 1" shorter creating a much steeper cushion.
I was given an unstapling tool (thanks Pinky!) which works well . . . . ,

Image


. . . prepared the cushion . . . . . ,

Image


. . and fitted the cover. The cover was too short around the front so I glued a canvas extension around the front and tapered it around the sides of the canvas.

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It seems quite good, though I haven't tried it on the move. The slope not only spreads the body weight over a larger area, but tends to help hold you in the seat, resisting sliding forward. The next seat cushion I do like this will be 1 1/2" steps.

A random picture, on the way to its' first event.

Image


I needed to move the old 'Brown and Hurley' KW573 chassis. Brown and Hurley are, perhaps, the largest Kenworth dealer in Australia, and this is their tow truck which they bought from the Army in about 1974. Its' military driver was Bob Whittaker (dec) for over a decade. Not much left now. Anyway, this became the first actual tow job for the Glorifier. This time I didn't put the effort into fitting the pulley block as the load is not heavy.

Image

Image

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An unwise thing I did was use the Holmes winch without re-laying the cable after the previous job. So when it took the load, there was some jamming of the cable into the lower layers. It looks like there was no real damage as the load, although big, was not that heavy. I'll find out when I re-lay the cable.

Contents list in first post updated.
Have a nice day.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

Ries77
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Ries77 » Sun Jun 23, 2019 1:26 pm

It is Nice to follow the rebuild , Good to see how you make/copy your own parts
Good job 👍
Greetings Ries (from the netherlands )

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Mon Aug 12, 2019 8:07 pm

Hi all,

Thanks Reis.
Again it has been a while since I've posted, a cold and working in Brisbane (Hi Neal @ C.S.H.S.!!!) has kept me off-task.
I have a few days before work starts up again and have been able to attack the dreaded engine side plate oil leak. The scary part is access. This is where the leak seems to be from, tucked tightly in behind the injector pump.

Image


Just getting the inner mudguard out was a problem, made difficult by the extension on the fan cowl. Didn't see that coming! :? Had to distort one corner to get it out. The picture does not do justice to the degree of distortion needed to free the guard.

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There is a lot of stuff in the way.

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Getting to it was one thing, quite another to get the plate out of the engine bay.

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As it stands, I don't think I can get it out of the engine bay without removing the injector pump. That ain't gunna happen. So I'm going to try to prep the plate, gasket and block in situ. The gasket, a rubber-like material, was quite hard and broke getting it off the side plate and out of the engine bay.

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So here is where I'm up to and it's time for a cup of tea.

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You'd think I was smart enough to change the gaskets before fitting the engine. Nope, apparently not! :?

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

kw573
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Location: Near Bundaberg, Australia.

Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Aug 14, 2019 2:37 pm

Well, I'm glad that is done!! :)

The forward-most bolt is tucked tightly in behind the injector pump with about 2mm clearance to get that bolt out and back in. I did get it back in using stiff wire pokers, long screwdrivers and different size/shape spanners. I loosely fitted some bolts then fitted the front bolt, about an hour to get it done, then dabbed sealer under the washer with a poker. Many misses is why the sealer is messed around the bolt in the picture.

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And all done, ready for a road test.

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One bolt was leaking, thankfully it was easy to get at and reseal. The picture shows the bolt after I have resealed it. I also had to replace some fuel connection washers that were leaky.

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We then went for a 20km drive and no sign of any leaks anywhere. Thank goodness that job is done!!!!
Another leak is at the transfer case, but can't really see where, so I am beginning to think that the oil may have been the spray from the engine leak. So I have wiped it down and the next long drive will give a better idea of what is happening.
Another little job is adjusting the RV Mirror. It gets in the way when entering/leaving the cabin.

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So, before going for the test drive, I re-set it. Important is to not just give it a heave, but to loosen the bolts first. If I just gave it a heave without loosening the adjusting bolts, then before long, it would no longer hold its' position. This also holds for the mirror head that has screw/s at the adjustment ball to be loosened before adjustment. Which I did.

Image


That worked, easier to get in and out now and the mirror is still functional.

Enjoy.
Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

Marty, SoCal
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Marty, SoCal » Tue Aug 20, 2019 12:44 pm

Really lookin' good! :wink:

How's she doing on fuel economy? Better or worse than expected?
43 Ford GPW 92098
53 Dunbar Kapple M100
Sold: 61 CJ-5, 41 T207 WC-1 Dodge closed cab pickup
MVPA #8266
USMC Tanker (1811, 1812), 85-93
ASE Automotive Master tech, former Chrysler-Jeep Level 4 Mastertech, CA state EA smog license

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Wed Aug 21, 2019 2:46 pm

Hi Marty,
Thanks for the comments. Appreciated.

Work is busy for the next month or so, so there won't be much to report on for a little while.

Regarding fuel consumption, calculating that is proving to be not so straight forward. As I usually fill from Jerry Cans (local fuel prices are not the best I can get) getting a good idea how much fuel has been sucked out of the tank is a vulgar science. I had made a calibrated dip stick based on the change in fuel level when adding 20lts via Jerry Cans, showing 1.7mm/lt rise in fuel level.
Then I did a drive to Bundaberg to have a radiator repair done (more on that later) and filled at a bowser, checking the dipstick every 30lts. It was way out, I have no idea how that happened. I noted the figures (bowser reading vs dipstick reading) but have yet to "crunch" them. On the dipstick readings, I was getting roughly 8 1/2m.p.g. (g=4.54lt) which, IIRC, is around 2 1/2kms/ltr. I now know that is not correct, or even close due to the different fuel level readings.
Even determining what 'full' is, is a problem. As the tank is over 200lts and all flat sides, it takes a lot of filling, but how much air gap is needed is a bit vague. I want to fill it to a comfortable level, for me, mark the filler extension and then solder a short length of wire at that mark and use it as the full mark. Then I can do more accurate calculations.
We'll see.

Anyway, have a nice day.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

Marty, SoCal
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by Marty, SoCal » Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:43 pm

How's the power on the road? Think it's better than the original gasser?

Maybe you can rig up a fuel economy test with a graduated vessel for fuel so that you can observe when it drinks one liter vs the Km travelled?

Here's a link to an online fuel tank capacity calculator, might help:
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculat ... n/tank.php
43 Ford GPW 92098
53 Dunbar Kapple M100
Sold: 61 CJ-5, 41 T207 WC-1 Dodge closed cab pickup
MVPA #8266
USMC Tanker (1811, 1812), 85-93
ASE Automotive Master tech, former Chrysler-Jeep Level 4 Mastertech, CA state EA smog license

kw573
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Re: A 969 rebuild from Downunder.

Post by kw573 » Thu Aug 29, 2019 2:08 pm

Hi all,

Marty, as I've never driven an original engine on-road, I couldn't say for sure. I did expect more power than it has, but suspect that it is noticeably more than original. If I get the chance to compare, I'll report it here. I also want to know. That is an interesting calculation for the circular tank. I'll need a bit of time and a cup of tea to work that one out!

At this time, I am working in Brisbane for several weeks and won't get to the Glorifier until after that. But I do have some to report. During a general check, I noticed a too loud air leak when the brakes were applied. It was the drivers front brake chamber. Checked the flange bolts = all tight. Hmmm.

Removed the chamber to inspect it.
Removing the chamber required the slack adjuster to be backed off far enough to clear the push rod which needed to move sideways with the chamber to slide it off its' mounting bolt which can be seen in the picture.

Image


And, to my dismay, this is what I found. A section of the lip of the diaphragm had pulled clear of the lip of the chamber. Hmmm.

Image


This is a new diaphragm so I was not impressed. But wait, it gets worse. While inspecting it, a heap of cracks showed up!!!

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Wha. . . . What!!! This is a rapid loss of air pressure waiting to happen. What to do? I dug out one of the old diaphragms and it tested good, no sign of cracking at all.

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So I fitted it. Problem fixed. :D
Fair dinkum!! I seem to get only a little better performance out of new parts than I do out of used ones! Not the case frequently, but it feels like it. I think I'd better check the passenger side chamber as well.

That's all I've got for now, enjoy.

Sam.
1942 Script GPW (Daily driver).
Willys MB.
2 x Diamond T 969.
Kenworth M1A1 Heavy Wrecker.
3ton GS (Blitz) Trailer.
150gal water tanker trailer.

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