G503 Military Vehicle Message Forums

Hello There
Good luck on your restoration. I’m sure it will look great when done. You need to use a Military truck steering wheel puller. You can also use a bearing splitter with the proper attachments.

Dozerman beat me to it...

Didn't get much done today. I cracked a rib on Saturday, and it hinders progress quite a bit.

I figured I'd do something easy and take apart my pivot bracket assembly for my master cylinder. Of course this stupid cotter pin refused to come out. I ended up cutting the rivets and removing the whole bracket. What a waste of an hour.


I thought for sure I'd break the bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Luckily a few weeks soaking in penetrating oil and heat from a torch broke them free.



I even got my heat control valve working again.


Got most of the front of the frame stripped. It's about ready for sand blasting. My rib is hurting too much, so I'll start again tomorrow.

Didn't get much done?!?!! Looks to me like you're moving right along rather quickly Farrell.

I'm still hurting from cracking my rib, so I took it easy and started doing small stuff. Got my radio filters blasted and painted, and restored my fuel filter, which came out pretty nice. I also disassembled my carb, completely cleaned it, painted the steel with black VHT epoxy paint, and reassembled it. I'll give it a new accelerator pump, and gaskets when the time comes to install it. For now I can cross these off the list

Looks good Farrell. Have you tested your suppression filters yet? How does a guy go about testing these things anyway?

D.R.H. wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:32 pm

How does a guy go about testing these things anyway?

Some digital multimeters have a capacitor setting. The multimeter will indicate the MFD value of the filter if the filter is good. If it doesn't have a capacitor setting, there's a way to test the filter using the Ohms setting. I forget exactly how that method works, but both methods are easy and straight forward.

I was able to get a little more done. The front half of the chassis is proving to be more of a challenge, mostly in part due to the dried grease build up on the hard to reach areas like the engine mount brackets and transmission crossmember. It also doesn't help that my tiny air compressor gives me only about 20 seconds worth of hard charged blast pressure good enough to cut through the grime. I need to drop the t-case to clean the rest, but I can't do that yet with a cracked rib. I also will drop the transmission and install a new clutch disc when the time comes. For now, I'll just stick to what I can handle while handicapped. The bottom of the cab stripped pretty easily. Took quite a bit of primer and paint though. I'll eventually get the underside of the dash.





I also dug out my decals for my oil filter and got those stuck on. Took me a few days to find a place with decal set in stock. This will look nice when I reinstall it back on the firewall

Looking good, Farrell!

Spent a little time on my hood. Sand blasted the hinges and hard to reach spots, then later I'll lightly sand the spots I can preserve the paint. I'll try and blend in the areas I'll need to paint over. Before I start that, I needed to retrace my factory applued registration numbers. The blue drab was nearly all gone, but the numbers left shadows of where they once were. I used a combination of both left and right numbers to form a comolete USA number. I'll need to figure out where the supression S is supposed to be located. Once I get these plotted out, I'll make a set of stencils.

Farrell, I have a suggestion for your that I learned when I was into VW's back in the early eighties. When replacing the clutch disc, have the flywheel surfaced too. The expense is minimum compared to finding out the it has high spots that make your clutch chatter upon release, from the past owners with a heavy left foot.
I have found that Cascade Friction Materials can do the work that Valley Friction Materials in North Hollywood Cal. used to do for me when I lived there. I took three assemblies from Ft. Mac. there too. The work they performed was, Surface Flywheel, new Friction Material on Clutch Disc, Surface Pressure Plate and install new Springs, new Pilot Bushing and all for only $165.00. You know that while you're "RIGHT THERE" and everything is accessible, it's easier to do.
I found this place in the Sacto area near you; https://www.capitolclutch.com/services; Give 'em a call and see if they can do all that work. They might just surprise you. Dave.

Trucks looking good keep up the great work. My tractor was suppressed and the S is on the side of the cab. On the bottom of your cab did yours not have the long shaped u springs. Phillip

phillip.w.givens wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:22 pm

On the bottom of your cab did yours not have the long shaped u springs. Phillip

Yup, it's that long bracket seen at the bottom of the cab with the big bolt in the center.

Ok i guess i left that part on my frame when i had my cab off. I was just look at it wrong. Phillip

Farrell let me correct myself the S is on the hood at the back. I just looked at it again. The G wont let me post a picture. It said the file is to big. Phillip