42 Chevy G506 382497-S Restoration

[D.R.H.]

That is a great idea Farrell!! Looks like you and I are running close to each other in regards to our progress. I can't get my pintle hook out of the tube. I need to clean it up and get it moving smoothly.

[Farrell Fox]

Finished up my pintle, and got the fin welded up. Not perfect, but close enough. Now I just need to figure out what size nut I need, and get one ordered.

I think next, I'll work on removing my battery box, and getting that fixed up. Needs a new pan, and the middle enclosure.

[kelley]

Hey Farrell the hitch came out real nice. I can't tell you the thread pitch but I know it's a castle nut.

[Joe Gopan]

Nut is known as a Slotted or Castle Nut 1-1/2-6 NC, it's cotterpin is 1/4" X 3".

Fastenall should have the Nut, expensive tho.

[Farrell Fox]

Got my front end mostly taken apart. Trying to save as many original bolts as I can. The radiator was a pain to remove, and I think it is because the fan sits about an inch too far forward on the pump. I had to cut one of the carriage bolts to get the radiator frame mount off the chassis. It's 103° outside, and I think I'm about worn out for today. Tomorrow I hope to start stripping the front end, and at least priming it. I need to come up with a clever way of removing the cab

[Joe Gopan]

Wooden "A"- Frame and a chain Fall or a Come along with a 2X4 stuck thru the door way.Remove the doors Steering Wheel, the clamp to the dash and gear shifts. Four rugged guys can slide it off sideways.Don't forget the wiring.

[rjbeamer]

McMaster Carr is a lot cheaper. Fasenal was $14.00 Ea.

1 1/2"-6 2 1/4" 1 5/16" 5/16" 0.37" 0.457" 1 95030A370 $6.25 McMaster Carr

Roger

[phillip.w.givens]

Hey Farrell that pintle hook turned out great. Keep up the good work. Phillip

[Farrell Fox]

Went out this morning and grabbed a nut and washer for the pintle. They didn't have a castle nut, so I had to make one. Cleaned up the threads, and installed everything on the truck. Sure looks good, can't wait to get it painted. With the rear end metal work done, time to continue stripping the rest of the frame.

[Farrell Fox]

Got up early to work on the truck. Of course today is the hottest day of the week. As luck would have it, the trees I neglected to cut down during winter have provided adequate shade, and tolerable work area. So they can stay for now.


I removed the regulator and radio filters from the firewall. The black straps are for the regulator. You can see the nuts and spider washers for the filters. The crappy blury photo shows the tinned areas for the filters.






For removing the cab, I couldn't find a used hoist or gantry for sale locally, or anything at a reasonable price for that matter. I didn't want to shell out a few hundred bucks buying a new unit or building something to use maybe twice. I also had to work around my stuck steering wheel. Even with the propper pullers, any additional attempts to remove it would result in damage to the bakelite, so the steering wheel stays stuck. The hinge pins on the doors are stuck, too. So I had to leave the doors on. Despite all this, I came up with a simple way to remove the cab with no special tools or equipment required, and that can be done by one person.

I placed two 4x4 wooden blocks under the rear cab mount. This facilitated clearing the steering wheel once I removed it. I lifted the cab up, and slid it over the engine about 6 inches. This allowed me to simply roll the cab over, clearing the steering wheel, and onto the pillow I made from a large camouflage net. This was quite simple, and easy to do, and I did this by myself without any assistance.







With the cab off, and exposing the bottom of the cab, and chassis area, I can start cleaning and stripping in preparation for priming and painting. This area is a little difficult, since there are brake and fuel lines to work around. The gear boxes will also require sand blasting, since the flapper and wire wheels are not really going to work well in these areas.



Chad and others wanted to know how the brake line from the master cylinder to the hydrovac was run. Mine is still present, and runs through the transfercase crossmember

[zippog506]

Hi Farrell,

Man, thats a lot of work to go to just to clean the ash tray and glove box Great Idea, A tough undertaking with the steering wheel still attached. Seeing is believing, but you had to be there to see it huh? There was room for so many things to go wrong, and by yourself it could have really gone bad. I feel that really deserves a big OOOOOOOOOOOOOO-RAAAAAAAAHHH. Congratulations, and well done.

Respectfully, Dave.

[forestry4evr]

Pretty ingenious method for removing the cab. Necessity is the mother of invention. I have removed/installed cabs in a number of ways depending on the people power, time, or desire. I think I prefer the manual method of having 4 people, one on each corner as it seems to be a little more gentle. A stripped cab doesn't weigh too much. Myself, another adult guy, a woman and a strong girl were easily able to install my 41 cab years ago.



Above is my one man cab installation method...well I guess one man and a baby Deere.

What is the issue with your steering wheel? Did you successfully get the nut off? The steering shaft is a taper fit with a key, not spline like most steering wheels. A good dose of penetrating oil and time should work. Go slow and don't break anything!

[Farrell Fox]

What is the issue with your steering wheel? Did you successfully get the nut off? The steering shaft is a taper fit with a key, not spline like most steering wheels. A good dose of penetrating oil and time should work. Go slow and don't break anything!

Been soaking the steering wheel in penetrating fluid for a few months now. Used a three fingered puller to try and get the steering when off, but it started to chip and crack the bakelite. I also tried using a large crescent wrench and my 12 lb sledge to try and tap it off, and still no luck. So rather than damage the bakelite, I elected to just leave it in place and work the cab around the steering wheel. It really wasn't that much more of a hassle to get the cab off. Perhaps if the wheel was off, I wouldn't need the wood blocks in the rear, but oh well. I'd rather not have a broken steering wheel.

[pintelhook11over]

Outstanding!

Be careful working alone, as long as some body knows your out tinkering. Old girl is coming along quite well!!!

The way I got my steering wheel off was a later style M35 series puller. It kinda looks like a horse collar puller. It wraps around to the bottom and has a half circle insert that slips around the column and pushes up on the back side of the steering wheel base.

One of my horn button screw holes was stripped out so I "re-clocked" my horn button bezel. To my surprise when I was drilling the pilot holes it smelled like fresh tire rubber after 75 years! I thumped the tightening screw to so it would "Jar" the threads, I also leave the retaining nut flush with the end of the steering wheel shaft to reduce damage to the end of the shaft threads.

I got mine from Ebay for 75-ish bucks, but here is a quicky internet picture of the style I used.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... -442888065

[pintelhook11over]

That old 75 year old grease has turned into asphalt on the T-case cross member!

I kinda like using the "Easy Off" oven cleaner, spray some on, go wrench on something else for a while a come back and scrape it off with a good putty knife. Plus it is used in the kitchen/food area so the neighbor can't get too upset. I would use a drip pan to catch the excess. I recall getting it from the 99 cent store so it doesn't add a lot of cost to the repair budget.

Its nice to see the evidence of black on the regulator support braces and the black on the end of the steering column brace.

Did you have the cardboard/Jute fiber insulator pad on there still?

I had steel chevy "Brads" that were holding on my remaining remnants of fire wall insulator. I pulled them out carefully to re use them but I don't have a replacement insulator installed yet. I was hoping there were still some reproduction firewalls left, those ones that were made up a while back. I think they were at John Bizal's.