Manifold heat control

[Blackpearlmike]

Hi I'm new on here looking for some help with my 1948 CJ2A I found this jeep In a field got it for 800 13 years ago been working on it off and on I've put on new breaks rack and pinion steering it was missing a lot of parts I finally got it running and drove it 5 miles. I've noticed the heat control is stuck can some one tell me if there is a way to get it unstuck. thank you Mike

[Steve Webb]

I would spray Kroil on the shaft. If that doesn't do it I think they make a kit with bushings you can drill and fix it. Been a long time since I messed with one.

[Wolfman]

Kroil is my first choice but sometimes hard to find at the local discount car parts store. And a little pricy.
Second place goes to WD 40 Rust Release Formula.
Comes in a black, silver and red trim can. Not the Stuff in the blue can.
Once you spray it on and let it soak in for a bit, spray the shaft where it goes into the manifold, front and rear, one more time and then tap on the end of the shaft, "lightly" with a hammer.
There is a baffle inside the manifold that has a little side clearance. The shaft will not move a lot because the baffle comes up against the manifold but if you can get it start moving back and forth in the space there is, you have it.
Keep working and spraying the shaft until it is free.
If this doesn't work, you are back to what Steve said. Take the manifold off. Take it apart. Cut the heat riser out. Drive what is left of the shaft out and rebuild with a kit.

[Bruce W]

GM Heat Control Valve Lubricant is a very good penetrating oil with graphite in it. The penetrating oil soaks in and carries the graphite in with it. If the penetrating oil evaporates or burns off it leaves nothing behind but the graphite which lubes the shaft/bushings and prevents sticking. The same stuff is probably available from other companies under different names, but I use the original.
BW