gauge install instructions
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gauge install instructions
I have a Stewart Warner temperature gauge 431800, 340MW7 100-240 degrees.
It has four terminals on the rear. One is obviously the ground as it is soldered to the case.
There is another at center top, and two at midline towards each side.
All three of those are insulated from the gauge housing.
This gauge has light windows in the case behind the bezel, and no hole for a bulb.
Does anyone know how to wire this gauge?
Thakns,
Brian
It has four terminals on the rear. One is obviously the ground as it is soldered to the case.
There is another at center top, and two at midline towards each side.
All three of those are insulated from the gauge housing.
This gauge has light windows in the case behind the bezel, and no hole for a bulb.
Does anyone know how to wire this gauge?
Thakns,
Brian
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Re: gauge install instructions
Brian,
I'm not familiar with this type. Are you able to post an image?
I'm not familiar with this type. Are you able to post an image?
Rus Curtis
'54 CJ-3B
T3-C
'54 CJ-3B
T3-C
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Re: gauge install instructions
Not familiar with this particular gauge either but a little bench testing might give some clues.
The gauge itself may or may not need a ground to work. The ground connection is probably for the light.
"My guess" is the top connection is for the light.
Two side connections are for the gauge. One to the ignition switch and one to the temp. sending unit. This is how temp. gauges I have seen in the past are set up.
Here is how I would check it on the bench using a jumper battery.
Ground the gauge body to Battery negative ( B-). Using a jumper wire connected to Battery + ( B+), touch the other connections. See which one makes the light come on. That eliminates two of the connections.
Now, using a jumper, connected to B-, connected to one of the other two terminals and using an ice pick test light connected to B+. touch the other of the two last terminals. See what happens. Gauge should move. May have to reverse the last two connections for proper movement.
Once you get movement, you have it. The termianl that is connected to B+ through the light goes to the ignition switch. The terminal that is connected to B- goes to the sending unit.
It is possible you are dealing with a balanced gauge. In this case, you would have to have the ground terminal to the case connected to B- for the second part of the test to work.
Have fun !
The gauge itself may or may not need a ground to work. The ground connection is probably for the light.
"My guess" is the top connection is for the light.
Two side connections are for the gauge. One to the ignition switch and one to the temp. sending unit. This is how temp. gauges I have seen in the past are set up.
Here is how I would check it on the bench using a jumper battery.
Ground the gauge body to Battery negative ( B-). Using a jumper wire connected to Battery + ( B+), touch the other connections. See which one makes the light come on. That eliminates two of the connections.
Now, using a jumper, connected to B-, connected to one of the other two terminals and using an ice pick test light connected to B+. touch the other of the two last terminals. See what happens. Gauge should move. May have to reverse the last two connections for proper movement.
Once you get movement, you have it. The termianl that is connected to B+ through the light goes to the ignition switch. The terminal that is connected to B- goes to the sending unit.
It is possible you are dealing with a balanced gauge. In this case, you would have to have the ground terminal to the case connected to B- for the second part of the test to work.
Have fun !
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: gauge install instructions
The gauge does not have a light,
it has side openings for external
behind the dash lighting.
it has side openings for external
behind the dash lighting.
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: gauge install instructions
Hi
what the front face gauges looks like, can you post picture of the front face gauge please if I can help you when I check my book collection information.
Peter
what the front face gauges looks like, can you post picture of the front face gauge please if I can help you when I check my book collection information.
Peter
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Re: gauge install instructions
Here you go, Peter:
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Re: gauge install instructions
The intel I found says the gauge you have was an OEM gauge used on International trucks.
Did not go into any detail as to which model or year.
Did not go into any detail as to which model or year.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: gauge install instructions
wolfman,
You found more info that I could!
Brian,
I did a bit of looking over several days. The biggest stump for me was the gauge number you supplied not showing up as a temperature gauge. I found several gauges with the same temp range but they looked different and had different part numbers as well.
I eventually attempted a wiring diagram and found this:
http://www.stewartwarnercanada.com/medi ... gauges.PDF
While it may explain most of the posts you have on the back of your gauge, I see no reference for the bayonet connector out there on the edge. Also, I'm not sure about the "+" and "-" added to the back as it seems to be opposite from the diagrams on the linked .pdf above.
Wished I could've found more.
You found more info that I could!
Brian,
I did a bit of looking over several days. The biggest stump for me was the gauge number you supplied not showing up as a temperature gauge. I found several gauges with the same temp range but they looked different and had different part numbers as well.
I eventually attempted a wiring diagram and found this:
http://www.stewartwarnercanada.com/medi ... gauges.PDF
While it may explain most of the posts you have on the back of your gauge, I see no reference for the bayonet connector out there on the edge. Also, I'm not sure about the "+" and "-" added to the back as it seems to be opposite from the diagrams on the linked .pdf above.
Wished I could've found more.
Rus Curtis
'54 CJ-3B
T3-C
'54 CJ-3B
T3-C
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: gauge install instructions
Hi mate
Sorry I was so flat out at work as a robot machine broke down.
Ok thanks for posting the picture of the front of the gauges faces.
To connect it
The back of the temp gauge
The right studs with the -- markings is the IGN
The left studs with the + markings is the sender
The studs on top middle and the rights top on case are the negative ground.
I suggest before you put it in your dash get a battery, wire, and sender to test it on the bench and also using hot water on bowl or tin can.
If you already connect it and when for a drive
If it goes right to 220 in 5 minutes then it means wrong temp gauge or sender you will need to buy the right OHMS for it to match.
If it stays 100 and did not more switch the wire as it may be connect the wrong way.
When you turn the IGN on and the temp gauge went right to 220 then wrong readings you will need to get the right sender or temp OHMS
Cheers peter
Sorry I was so flat out at work as a robot machine broke down.
Ok thanks for posting the picture of the front of the gauges faces.
To connect it
The back of the temp gauge
The right studs with the -- markings is the IGN
The left studs with the + markings is the sender
The studs on top middle and the rights top on case are the negative ground.
I suggest before you put it in your dash get a battery, wire, and sender to test it on the bench and also using hot water on bowl or tin can.
If you already connect it and when for a drive
If it goes right to 220 in 5 minutes then it means wrong temp gauge or sender you will need to buy the right OHMS for it to match.
If it stays 100 and did not more switch the wire as it may be connect the wrong way.
When you turn the IGN on and the temp gauge went right to 220 then wrong readings you will need to get the right sender or temp OHMS
Cheers peter
Last edited by Peterdodge6volt on Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: gauge install instructions
Did a web search.
Entered " Stewart Warner 431800".
What I posted is what I found.
Entered " Stewart Warner 431800".
What I posted is what I found.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: gauge install instructions
Thanks Guys.
Yes, I’ve pounded the Internet and found very little as Wolf has.
Peter, the markings on the “cardboard” were put there by me. When I removed the nuts and the cardboard the + and - were stamped in the case as shown.
They looked backwards to me unless this is a positive ground gauge. Does that make sense?
Thanks,
Brian
Yes, I’ve pounded the Internet and found very little as Wolf has.
Peter, the markings on the “cardboard” were put there by me. When I removed the nuts and the cardboard the + and - were stamped in the case as shown.
They looked backwards to me unless this is a positive ground gauge. Does that make sense?
Thanks,
Brian
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Re: gauge install instructions
I knew about the IH relation as there is a guy selling a case of these on eBay. He bought them at an IH auction, but has no information on installation.
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Re: gauge install instructions
Makes a lot of sense, Brian.
If the battery polarity for the vehicle this gauge was made for was positive ground, the + and - terminals would be reversed from what you would find on a negative ground system.
I worked at an IH truck garage in the late 60's. All the IH trucks I dealt with then were 12V, negative ground. This was Scouts up to tandem axle trucks. And fairly new at the time.
Can't say, off the top of my head, what the older trucks were.
Some 40s and 50s IH farm tractors were 6V, positive ground. Trucks of that era may have been also.
The gauge would still work either polarity. Just reverse the + and - wires to match the polarity. Would also have to be for the proper voltage system and the resistance range of the sending unit would have to match the gauge.
If the battery polarity for the vehicle this gauge was made for was positive ground, the + and - terminals would be reversed from what you would find on a negative ground system.
I worked at an IH truck garage in the late 60's. All the IH trucks I dealt with then were 12V, negative ground. This was Scouts up to tandem axle trucks. And fairly new at the time.
Can't say, off the top of my head, what the older trucks were.
Some 40s and 50s IH farm tractors were 6V, positive ground. Trucks of that era may have been also.
The gauge would still work either polarity. Just reverse the + and - wires to match the polarity. Would also have to be for the proper voltage system and the resistance range of the sending unit would have to match the gauge.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: gauge install instructions
Thanks Mike
Were there any 12 volt positive ground IH trucks?
Also, what to I do with the third connection? Not the ground lug.
Brian
Were there any 12 volt positive ground IH trucks?
Also, what to I do with the third connection? Not the ground lug.
Brian
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