My mite rebuild project
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My mite rebuild project
Hello all
I have a question on the pick up filter assembly in the gas tank. Looking for some suggestion. I have the tank apart. The screen/filter element is a hard part to find. It might be the same one in the older m151's. One option would be to not worry about it and install an inline filter on the outside of the tank. thanks in advance
I have a question on the pick up filter assembly in the gas tank. Looking for some suggestion. I have the tank apart. The screen/filter element is a hard part to find. It might be the same one in the older m151's. One option would be to not worry about it and install an inline filter on the outside of the tank. thanks in advance
- Bill H.
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Re: My mite rebuild project
It is my understanding that the strainer is unique to the Mighty Mite. My suggesting might be to install an inline filter inside the tank in place of the strainer. That way it is hidden inside the tank.
Bill H.
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Thanks for the suggestion. I am going to try and retrofit a strainer to the inside of the tank, but I am going to keep looking.
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Hello
Today I replaced a headlight and tested. I do have lights. I then removed the front clip. My cylinders are soaking. I am in the process of removing fan housing so I can try and turn it by hand.
Headlamps 4863
Today I replaced a headlight and tested. I do have lights. I then removed the front clip. My cylinders are soaking. I am in the process of removing fan housing so I can try and turn it by hand.
Headlamps 4863
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Hello all
Well I did not get fan housing off, but was able to try turning using the generator nut. It turned easily. I am working on rebuilding the carb.
Well I did not get fan housing off, but was able to try turning using the generator nut. It turned easily. I am working on rebuilding the carb.
- takpak
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Hi JRLATT. I am in the home stretch of my MM restoration project. Finally got most of the mechanical done, including the engine. First, about the fuel filter, yes it is unique to the MM. I am NOT going to deal with an in tank filter. First, even with the original, you have to drain the tank and drop the access cover to get to it. Second, there is no way to get to an inline filter if it's inside the tank, as there is no access point for removing it, unless you did a major custom mod and found a screw on type and built a special tube for it. I'm just putting a new inlet tube into the tank and having an easy access filter in the line right before the fuel pump.
Regarding your carb; if it has sat for many many years as mine did, don't bother doing it at home. I tried.....twice. New parts, and tanked/soaked it for a week. Still wouldn't run right, wouldn't even idle. Thanks to a suggestion by Paul (radar 4X4) I sent it to Daytona Parts Company in Florida. They specialize in old carbs. When I got the report, they said it was all gunked up internally, especially in the small orifices. Also the accelerator shaft was frozen. I didn't notice that when I rebuilt it. Anyway, talked to the owner for about 45 minutes. He said they have a specialized machine that does ultrasonic cleaning with a proprietary solution. He said there was a lot of "stuff" that came out of the carb, even though I had soaked it for a long time. Anyway, end result is.......the engine runs great, now. Carb looks like new. Finally, as I just could not get the engine to run right before. It was well worth the $250 it cost me.
Hope that helps. Now to deal with all the rivets in the body I have to replace!
Regarding your carb; if it has sat for many many years as mine did, don't bother doing it at home. I tried.....twice. New parts, and tanked/soaked it for a week. Still wouldn't run right, wouldn't even idle. Thanks to a suggestion by Paul (radar 4X4) I sent it to Daytona Parts Company in Florida. They specialize in old carbs. When I got the report, they said it was all gunked up internally, especially in the small orifices. Also the accelerator shaft was frozen. I didn't notice that when I rebuilt it. Anyway, talked to the owner for about 45 minutes. He said they have a specialized machine that does ultrasonic cleaning with a proprietary solution. He said there was a lot of "stuff" that came out of the carb, even though I had soaked it for a long time. Anyway, end result is.......the engine runs great, now. Carb looks like new. Finally, as I just could not get the engine to run right before. It was well worth the $250 it cost me.
Hope that helps. Now to deal with all the rivets in the body I have to replace!
Terry K.
Vietnam Veteran
U.S. Navy
Current: 1962 M-422A1, 1953 Air Force M-43, 1942 Navy EP GPW Script
Previous: 1954 M-37, 1971 M-35, 1951 M-38
Vietnam Veteran
U.S. Navy
Current: 1962 M-422A1, 1953 Air Force M-43, 1942 Navy EP GPW Script
Previous: 1954 M-37, 1971 M-35, 1951 M-38
- takpak
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Re: My mite rebuild project
If I may make a suggestion, I would send the carb to a place called Daytona Parts in Florida. They specialize in old and unique carb rebuilds. After two failed attempts to rebuild mine, even using new parts, it still wouldn't run right. Finally sent it to Daytona Parts, got it back, and it runs perfectly now.
They told me that there are some small passages in the carb that even soaking wouldn't touch. They put it in their specialized ultrasonic machine and it cleaned it up good!
That model carb (1904F) is basically a Holley that was used on Ford products in the '50's, BUT the military had it modified for the MM, and there are a few parts on it that are unique. Daytona has those parts.
Terry K.
Vietnam Veteran
U.S. Navy
Current: 1962 M-422A1, 1953 Air Force M-43, 1942 Navy EP GPW Script
Previous: 1954 M-37, 1971 M-35, 1951 M-38
Vietnam Veteran
U.S. Navy
Current: 1962 M-422A1, 1953 Air Force M-43, 1942 Navy EP GPW Script
Previous: 1954 M-37, 1971 M-35, 1951 M-38
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Thanks for the reply. My rebuild kit was from Daytona, but I rebuilt it myself. There was two videos on youtube for the 1904. I have not tried starting it yet. I will see how good a job i did. I rebuilt the starter and did a compression test. 100psi in two and a little over in the other two. Next step is get the oil pressure and oil temp gauges installed. I also want to remove the intake and oil cooler to do more cleaning before putting it back together. Have a nice day.
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Hello all
I was looking at the intake manifold thinking I should take it off to clean underneath it. After taking it off I was glad I did. There was still a lot of pine needle that had blown in and collected. I took the oil cooler off and cleaned it up some. Lot easier to get to the oil pressure switch. I took that out and replaced it with a 0-60 sending unit. I installed a tee because I am also going to keep the switch too. I have ordered an electromagnetic shut off switch that I plan on installing to cut power to the distributor if I loose oil pressure. I tested the shut of pressure of one i ordered online. It turned on at 5 psi. The manual reads 15psi. The one I took out was is bad. A spare used one came in at about 2psi. I have ordered another one that states 15psi in its description.
Have a great day.
I was looking at the intake manifold thinking I should take it off to clean underneath it. After taking it off I was glad I did. There was still a lot of pine needle that had blown in and collected. I took the oil cooler off and cleaned it up some. Lot easier to get to the oil pressure switch. I took that out and replaced it with a 0-60 sending unit. I installed a tee because I am also going to keep the switch too. I have ordered an electromagnetic shut off switch that I plan on installing to cut power to the distributor if I loose oil pressure. I tested the shut of pressure of one i ordered online. It turned on at 5 psi. The manual reads 15psi. The one I took out was is bad. A spare used one came in at about 2psi. I have ordered another one that states 15psi in its description.
Have a great day.
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Hello all
It was a beautiful day today. I wired wheeled and sanded some nos exhaust and sprayed them with high heat flat black.
It was a beautiful day today. I wired wheeled and sanded some nos exhaust and sprayed them with high heat flat black.
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Just showing what I did for oil pressure and temp.
Gas tank strap bolts and nuts. bolts 5/16 x 1.75" the nuts 5/16 cage bolt picked up from Fastenal Grainger has them too.
Have a nice day
- Bill H.
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Re: My mite rebuild project
Awesome idea!
Bill H.
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
"Each shall seek his own kind, in other words, a bird may love a fish but where would they build a home together?" Tevye, Fiddler on the Roof
1952 Dunbar Kapple M100
1953 Willys M38A1
1962 AMC M422A1
1965 Stevens M416B1 X 2
1967 Kaiser M715
2 Timothy 3:1-5
- mspeters
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