Saving weight on rebuild

1959 - 1962, Mighty Mite, M422, Wanted, USED PARTS FOR SALE, and Knowledge Base
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mspeters
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Saving weight on rebuild

Post by mspeters » Mon Oct 22, 2018 5:04 pm

Have started a rebuild of a spare motor. It hadn’t run in 30-40 years and was seized-up. The chromium plating peeled and the aluminum on the cylinders corroded due to condensation and dirt. Needed a hydraulic press to remove 2 of the pistons from the cylinders. I will use NOS jugs stripped and replated in US Chrome’s NiCom - a blend of Nickel, Silicon, Carbide.

The generator and starter are swapping to modern 24v Denso based parts. I’ll sacrifice some originality to shave 54 pounds combined, but the M38A1 starter is costly. The alternator is a Komatsu 24v 50 amp tractor unit that I swapped into a leftover black Powermaster case. It needs simple mods to the Mite’s generator bracket.

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Radar4xfour
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Re: Saving weight on rebuild

Post by Radar4xfour » Tue Oct 23, 2018 8:41 am

Thanks for posting pictures to show all of us new and old to the Mighty Mite scene what bad cylinders look like. Also thank you for the comparison of the generator and starter alternatives, very informative! Curious, if the starter and alternator are available in 12V why not go that route and save another 25 lbs. +/- with one less battery? I've yet again needed to purchase Two 51R batteries for one of my Mighty Mites. Yes, if it were not for originality I'd be tempted to save weight and ease the pocketbook pain of purchasing 2 batteries.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to more pictures as the project progresses!

Radar

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mspeters
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Re: Saving weight on rebuild

Post by mspeters » Tue Oct 23, 2018 9:45 pm

Hi Radar,

Will add more photos in coming months.

The ignition coil pins the choice to 24V. There are rare 12v coils that fit in the waterproof distributor for overseas contracts. Midwest Military had some years ago. There are some on ebay (in Turkey) . https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-HANSING-BR ... Sw9N1VhS~Q. It is an orphan part, so would need spares to avoid a backwards conversion if the 12v coil went bad (or left the ignition on and overheated) and a replacement couldn’t be sourced. The 24V M151 electronic ignition module probably won’t work at 12v.

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