Not sure if this has been addressed before, but my current MULE engine does not use the mechanical fuel pump so I am transferring the blocking plate over to the Genset motor. Looks like they used a blue type RTV sealant?
What type of sealant or equivalent in lieu with the gasket should be used?
Also the brass fittings that are being swapped over, should they be coated with an anti-seize, oil, sealant, dry?
Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
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Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
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Re: Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
DON'T! Just use a paper gasket with a very little Indian Head Shellac to hold it in place.. The blue silicone gets into oil lines and passages and plugs things up. If you don't have a gasket, they are very easy to make, go to your local auto parts store and pick up a roll of medium gasket material, trace the cover and cut out the gasket, you don't need to cut out the large center hole, only the two bolt holes..
I like to use teflon tape on fittings. A word of caution, be very careful when installing the fittings into the valve cover bases in the heads, the aluminum is very thin and easy to crack if you install the fitting too tight. This is just a drain line, so it does not need to be overly tight.
I like to use teflon tape on fittings. A word of caution, be very careful when installing the fittings into the valve cover bases in the heads, the aluminum is very thin and easy to crack if you install the fitting too tight. This is just a drain line, so it does not need to be overly tight.
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Re: Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
Thanks Chuck , very good information.
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Re: Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
Loctite makes a compound called 515 or 518 (either will work) that is great for making on the fly gaskets and unlike silicone it will not get in anywhere you don't want it. That's because it is an anaerobic sealant like red or blue thread locker. It will not dry anywhere except in the absence of air. Yes you can leave the cap off as long as you like and it will not set up. Anything that does happen to get on the inside is washed away by the motor oil and is not harmful. It looks like thick grape jelly and is good for steel as well as aluminum. It also makes a great pipe thread sealant because it will make an excellent seal on fittings like the ones Chuck mentioned that cannot be tightened very tight. If you spread a thin coat on bare surfaces or threads and screw them together by hand in about 10 minutes, you will not be able to take it apart without a wrench but unlike regular loctite, it feels like a thin rubber coating upon disassembly. I assemble airplane crankcases with this stuff all the time and it is FAA approved.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Loctite/198/37394/10002/-1
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https://www.jegs.com/i/Loctite/198/37394/10002/-1
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Re: Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
Use a Gasket
I like Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket to ensure no leakage. If it needs to be taken apart some time later and the gasket you want to save then I use Mariners Choice Never-Seez at least on one side and it is great for preventing galvanic corrosion in fresh/salt water environments.
I like grummanflier's suggestion: Loctite makes a compound called 515 or 518 (either will work) that is great for making on the fly gaskets I plan on ordering it.
I like Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket to ensure no leakage. If it needs to be taken apart some time later and the gasket you want to save then I use Mariners Choice Never-Seez at least on one side and it is great for preventing galvanic corrosion in fresh/salt water environments.
I like grummanflier's suggestion: Loctite makes a compound called 515 or 518 (either will work) that is great for making on the fly gaskets I plan on ordering it.
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Re: Fuel Pump Blocking Plate.
Thanks for all your suggestions. Charles ,Chuck, and Grumman. The tech advice on here is great.
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