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Transmission mainshaft removal fixture.

Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 7:46 pm
by Guam0311
I am in the process of going into the transmission and i am at the point where I need the tooling fixtures to remove the rear cover to expose the mainshaft and intermediate shaft.

Does anyone have these for sale? Or where to get one? If not I will probably Mike out the dimensions and build my own if need be. I have seen several pictures on here so I will start from there.

Re: Transmission mainshaft removal fixture.

Posted: Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:56 pm
by muleman7
Glad to help

This first pic is ChuckWs design for pushing the Main Shaft and Intermediate Shaft while pulling the Trans Cover.


This pic is my solution for pushing the main shaft while pulling the Trans Cover.


Remove all nuts and LWs from the Cover
Remove the L/H Shift Shaft Poppet Plug, Spring and Ball
Remove the Cover Nuts/LW and Bolt/Washer from the Outer Main Shaft Bearing
Install the Bolt back into the Mainshaft
Install my Mainshaft Removal Tool and secure with 4 nuts
Heat the Cover on the Gasket location with Oxy-Acet to release the Gasket from the Cover
Once the Cover is removed you will have attached the Intermediate and Pinion Shaft Assys

This is my way to disassemble if I am replacing the Synchronizer and or 2nd Speed Spur or 1st-Rev Slider Gears. This can be done with the engine installed. With the Intermediate and Pinion Gears removed it is easy to access the Mainshaft.


If the Intermediate and Pinion Gears and Bearings must be serviced or replaced it is easy to do at this time

For further rebuilds the the engine must be removed to change Input Shaft plus Gaskets and Seals

If you want to use my Tool contact me shipping one way is $6.65 USPS Priority plus your return shipping

Re: Transmission mainshaft removal fixture.

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:16 am
by Guam0311
First and foremost, Thank you for the help.

On TM 9-2320-246-34, chap 6. fig 6-2 item 4, I removed the output shaft bearing retainer (7966694) after removing the drive shaft. But After reading your instructions, I missed the part about not having to remove it? their was no need to remove this per your instructions, however after inspecting the large 1 1/2 hex nut, it is not tight on the shaft threads. The nut will rotate cw-ccw about a 1/4 inch with the washer bent 90 deg to hold it in place. Is this Normal condition? I am in the process of looking up the torque spec for this nut? I submitted a picture, hopefully I did it right.

Also the 1st/rev shift shaft will not move in or out. so now the shaft is protruding to far to place the seal puller over it to remove the inner seal. perhaps I will just have to use a screw driver. just don't want to gall up the inner area.

Also noticed while removing the range shift shaft control linkage rod, it has couple good bends or "joggles" up towards the front. Not being completely straight will that effect the smooth operation of shifting?

Sorry for the big bucket list. Your pullers would be very helpful . I will PM you. Thank you

Re: Transmission mainshaft removal fixture.

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:25 am
by Guam0311
IMG_2859.JPG (106.64 KiB) Viewed 728 times

Re: Transmission mainshaft removal fixture.

Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2018 2:37 pm
by muleman7
The Drive Pinion Hex Nut is torqued at 80-100 lb ft according to TM 9-2320-246-34 pg 6-27 table 7 Dec 1967. It should not be loose. Flatten the washer bend and torque then reset the washer. The nut holds the pinion shaft inner bearings tight and the output shaft cover and shims are used to set the preload on the tapered bearings under the washer by moving the ouster race. Clean the shims and coat with either Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket or Never Seez Mariner's Choice.

The 1st-Rev shift shaft is locked in place because the 2nd-3rd shaft is either in 2nd or 3rd causing the lockout pin between the shafts to lock 1st-Rev. Shift the 2nd-3rd shaft to neutral and 1st-Rev will move.

Bends in the L/H shift rod should not effect the shifting unless it is so short that you are unable to shift completely into Low Range because the shift handle hits the bed. Best practice is to straighten the rod and make sure the swing arms are free not FROZEN. A long bend in the shaft may flex when shifting into Low and could cause shifting problems.

Picture of the lockout plug, it is between the plug I use to hold the 2nd-3rd spring and ball in place for a M274 trans that has NO external 2nd-3rd poppet spring and ball and a shift shaft that happens to be a L/H shaft but you can see how it would work.


Re: Transmission mainshaft removal fixture.

Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 12:03 am
by Guam0311
Great guidance, I reconnected the shift shafts and placed the 2nd/3d back to neutral and just like that I could move the 1st/rev shaft so my seal puller could grab the last two seals. With all my lack of MULE wisdom, I thought I broke my tranny. LOl. All seals are out now. Perhaps original seals? "Victor".

Soaked all the fasteners in "kroil" to loosen things up, however two of the studs backed out so I will clean the thread bosses and reinstall the studs. After research, it doesn't seem the manual calls out for any "locktite" ?

Looking to buy a 1 1/2 6 point deep socket that will reach out to at least 3 inches to grab that large hex nut. "Proto U.S. made (always a good thing). has one. looked at H.F. no dice. Once I get that, I will re-torque that.

I removed the L/H poppet/ball spring assy. waiting to install the new and improved assy.

Thank you.