GPW 268896

[70th Division]

I have been puzzled by the radiator. No markings I can find. Purchased the GPW restoration book and the GPW radiator is noted as having 3 indentations on the top and an F mark on front left.
Mine has 4 indentations and no F script that I can find,
Mine seems to match the radiator found on the GPW used for reference in the back of the book which states that it was replaced with a Willy’s radiator.
Are there any markings for the Willy’s radiator?
Here is a picture of mine.

Don’t forget that many GPWs came from the factory with MB radiators. Here’s one of several threads explaining that;
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=313001&hilit=Willys+radiator+in+gpw

Hello Jeff and Don,

Wow Jeff, thanks for that link, as I had never even heard that Ford also used MB radiators in later production of the GPW jeeps.
Don, that will save you a lot of money, knowing that the MB radiator is correct, and adding another check mark on how original your jeep treasure
actually is, we learn something new every day !


I will mention that the new, numbers matching, September 1944 Louisville GPW that I just got, also has an MB radiator in it, and I was thinking it had the wrong one, but now it appears to be the correct factory radiator !


Awesome !!

Best Regards,
Ray

[Nightstalker86]

That’s great Ray!
Every day I spend going over my GPW I find neat things. I currently don’t have a lot of time or money to devote to it but cleaning, exploring and learning are cheap.

[Nightstalker86]

I think I came across the original fuel gauge in the extra parts bin. I think they changed it because it wasn’t reading anything. I am hoping it was just a grounding issue that I have read about in countless posts.

[70th Division]

I think I came across the original fuel gauge in the extra parts bin. I think they changed it because it wasn’t reading anything. I am hoping it was just a grounding issue that I have read about in countless posts.

Hello Don,

That looks in perfect shape !!
Great spare parts pile !
Yes it seems grounding is an issue that almost everyone encounters !
I have the same issue with my unrestored 1942 GPW, either all the way full, or empty, original gauge, but the tank was replaced, fuel line replaced, and the fuel line and grounding clip for the firewall are different diameters, so I will have to figure it out, once I learn how to properly ground the fuel gauge.


Best Regards,
Ray

[Nightstalker86]

OK now that I have the fuel system working on to the brakes. I removed the brake master cylinder as there was no pressure and it was covered in rust. Here are some pics of the switch
I noticed a 1,2 & 6 stamped on the threaded side and the manufacturer on the other. Not sure if it still works or not but is it worth keeping?
The push rod and eye bolt don’t look too bad, just a little pitting toward the ball end of the push rod. Is this worth keeping?
I believe all of this is original.
I still have the master cylinder soaking but was also curious if they are rebuildable. I would rather keep and reuse anything unless it causes safety issues.

[JAB]

They all look better than what I kept for mine, but the decision to keep the switch depends on whether it works or not. They're under $15 almost anywhere, but the old ones, if they still work, seem to be be more reliable than the new ones...which might explain the
<$15 price tag.

I hone my cylinders and install new rubber parts and springs. I know few people still do that, but I do. Again, the rebuild kits are commonly available and it's easy to simply visually inspect them after a few passes with the hone. If they're bad, it's obvious. Removing 0.002" with a hone takes "forever" so it's easy to see what's worth rebuilding and what should be replaced.

[Nightstalker86]

Well I see Ron sells a rebuild kit so that answers that question.

[Nightstalker86]

Well the master cylinder cleaned up very well. Most of the internals look usable(piston & spring). Looks like I can hone the cylinder and hopefully everything fits back together.
Jeff what is your method of honing? I would like to try it myself.

[JAB]

I have a similar hone as this (mine is older and USA made) https://www.amazon.com/DASBET-Cylinder- ... ljaz10cnVl and use my cordless drill on a medium speed to get a cross-hatch pattern with medium grit stones. I'm sure it's considered dangerous, but I do it in my parts washer with the mineral spirits used to both lubricate and flush the fines at the same time as I hone. I suppose doing it submerged in a bucket of non-flamable cutting fluid or even soapy water water would suffice and be a lot safer.

https://www.rfjp.com/p-868-master-cylin ... a7838.aspx

You can use that same hone for the wheel cylinders too as they are 3/4". I have a '55 jeep pickup and '58 wagon and the same hone is used on their brake cylinders as well.

[Nightstalker86]

Thanks Jeff!
That looks like something I can handle.

[Nightstalker86]

Does anyone know what the material is that is bonded to the Master cylinder heat shield? I can’t tell if it was painted black or if it is just grease & oil. I am assuming it is some sort of asbestos fiber so I don’t want to start scrubbing it.

[JAB]

If it's original, it's asbestos. The modern replacements are something else.

[Nightstalker86]

Hello all,
Finally finished the Master Cylinder rebuild. I purchased a rebuild kit but still had to use the old piston with the o-ring since the new piston would not go all the way in. I assume the o-ring tries to turn inside out as you push it in then gets stuck. I don’t know if any one else has a trick but I didn’t. I lubed everything up with fluid and also honed the bore out to get any rust out before I put it all back together.

I also believe I found an original boot in my spare parts box so I figured I would use it.

You can see the new piston in the pic with the o-ring. It is a little longer than the original so may not be as flexible.

[70th Division]

Hello all,
Finally finished the Master Cylinder rebuild. I purchased a rebuild kit but still had to use the old piston with the o-ring since the new piston would not go all the way in. I assume the o-ring tries to turn inside out as you push it in then gets stuck. I don’t know if any one else has a trick but I didn’t. I lubed everything up with fluid and also honed the bore out to get any rust out before I put it all back together.

I also believe I found an original boot in my spare parts box so I figured I would use it.

You can see the new piston in the pic with the o-ring. It is a little longer than the original so may not be as flexible.

Looking good Don !

I haven't rebuilt any master cylinders on the jeep, as mine were older replacement ones, but used JMP ones.

It was a lot if fun hooking it all up.


Best Regards,
Ray

[steviem]

Lovely example congratulations, i have a 45 MB April produced, the fuel line on mine runs directly to the pump under drivers footwell no filter on the bulkhead much easier to work with, i guess Ford didn't fancy the idea.