MB451252 DoD 6-29-45 Restoration

[Adam]

My 45 mb has a F marked hood too, weather that means anything or not.

Your jeep is kinda late, there should be some info for jeeps built during this time frame, which contracts they were on, if any as I think all ww2 jeep contracts were canceled by this time, being Europe war is over and japan is the only one left. Maybe the jeep was built using remaining inventories, the dates on the axles may confirm if that is possible. Somebody would know.
Why not use the gpw axles anyway? If the gears in them are good at least you have a good start, replacement axle assys may be all worn out or damaged inside anyway.

Adam

[Seeker81]

I haven't looked at the fenders or the hood hinge for the F marking yet but I have been doing some reading and I assume you guys think the body is a ACM II type? Is that correct?

[70th Division]

Hello,

Unless it was swapped out along the way, it should be an ACM type 2 body.

That is what it would have left the factory with in 1945.

You can post a picture the body number or a picture of the body gusset, on the front driver's side.
There should be a number stamped on the front edge of it.

Best Regards,
Ray

[Seeker81]

Thanks for the info Ray.



I also found this Dana 23-2 Rear end available. What do you guys think? $50. He says he has a front end as well

[70th Division]

Yes !!!

Grab it ..... Quick !!

That is a great deal !!!!
Get the front end too

Very important parts to have as spares or for another Jeep build.


Ray

[Seeker81]

More good news, I will have a frame which just needs a rear rail welded in, anyone know where to get one? and I will also have a front-rear end set in the near future. Thanks Sam and Troy!

[Seeker81]

The bolts for the U bolt are rusted together so I was just gonna cut the heads off the U bolts but can anyone tell me if these leaf springs are salvagable?

[Seeker81]

Nothing at all wrong with that, So they are ford, GPW parts say gp, And from their configuration they are for a gpw, or MB. not a GP
find a date code on the ring gear. see if its 1945 some time, and gpw marked.

dont mix up the parts if you pull the ring carrier out, i dont really see any traces of oil, what do the teeth cotact areas
look like? does it turn?

adam

Adam, the assembly moves freely maybe a slight play when moved back and forth. Contact surfaces look very good in my opinion. Internals are GP and F marked. Many F marked bolts looks brand new. I did not see a date code.

[Adam]

Springs are probably shot,, see how they are mushed in the middle by the u bolts, they are ford anyway. Also look to be almost flat and ready to frown.
Maybe split them apart and see how they look 1 by one, if not pitted they can be rearched if somebody wants original ford springs.

on your 3rd pic of the ring andpinion,, see the "2" on the inside of the ring, look all around that ledge on the pinion,, date code should be there, along with the ratio info. If ford has a date code, dont remember now, the spicers on willys might.

Adam

[70th Division]

Hello,

I would clean up the springs, and get replacement NOS center pin bolts for each spring.

Clean each leaf spring , and check them closely.
Blast then clean, and put them back together.

Rust and crud tend to add gaps between each leaf.
If they need any further attention, like Adam mentioned, maybe a re arching would be called for from a spring place. If you can find one that does it.

They are GPW springs.

Keep us posted !

Best Regards,
Ray

[Seeker81]

Springs are probably shot,, see how they are mushed in the middle by the u bolts, they are ford anyway. Also look to be almost flat and ready to frown.
Maybe split them apart and see how they look 1 by one, if not pitted they can be rearched if somebody wants original ford springs.

on your 3rd pic of the ring andpinion,, see the "2" on the inside of the ring, look all around that ledge on the pinion,, date code should be there, along with the ratio info. If ford has a date code, dont remember now, the spicers on willys might.

Adam

Looks like the date code on the GPW rear axle is 6-3-42. Refer to picture.

[Seeker81]

Pictures of the new MB rear axel. Definitely needs a rebuild as you can see in the picture the inside is full of dirt and sand. I have been doing some research on rebuilding the axel but it seems alot of people recommend taking it to a shop and having them do it professionally. Is there a good tutorial available? Or is it really something I should take to a shop?

[Adam]

Now looking at the ford axles on a big screen,i can see the ridges by the carrier, I did not see them before, usually signify early.

How much you want to spend on fixing the axles, everything inside needs to go if there is rust and pitting on the gears. Pull the axle shafts, how is the seal area and splines.
There is info on here for doing the ring and pinion and setting the spacers correctly,, takes time and tools.

So far from what i see, if it were my project, I would use the ford axles, check the bearings, if they look good use the interiors as is, change the seals, redo what is on the backing places, or get a different set of mb axle assys.

Have you figured out what you want to build? a matching show jeep, or something you can enjoy and drive. dont sweat the small stuff if building a driver, you will still have a decent vehicle although it will be a match of parts.

Adam

Adam

[Adam]

On your frame, on the back end, if you cant find replacements, just outline the good side on paper, cut 3 pieces from sheet steel, and make one and weld it up. Or chop up a cj2a frame and make that work,

Mil veh show in a week or 2 just east of you,, might find something to look at.

Adam

[Seeker81]

Now looking at the ford axles on a big screen,i can see the ridges by the carrier, I did not see them before, usually signify early.

How much you want to spend on fixing the axles, everything inside needs to go if there is rust and pitting on the gears. Pull the axle shafts, how is the seal area and splines.
There is info on here for doing the ring and pinion and setting the spacers correctly,, takes time and tools.

So far from what i see, if it were my project, I would use the ford axles, check the bearings, if they look good use the interiors as is, change the seals, redo what is on the backing places, or get a different set of mb axle assys.

Have you figured out what you want to build? a matching show jeep, or something you can enjoy and drive. dont sweat the small stuff if building a driver, you will still have a decent vehicle although it will be a match of parts.

Adam

Adam

I think I'd like abit of both. It would probably mostly be a driver but I would like for it to be a nice driver. I already have the MB axle so I figure I may as well use it.

I also found these when I was going through my stuff. I bought them years ago. Looks like a repair was done around the stem hole but I was thinking I might go ahead and prime them with the spray can.