Hello fellow G503ers,
Here is a question for those with a bit more experience than myself. Like most Jeeps, the hats channels on the under side of the body rusted through in some areas of the tub. It is not terrible thankfully and some areas have already been replaced. In attempt to keep as much original fabric as possible, how much should be cut away in these spots? Any rule of thumb when doing this work?
Thanks everyone
Neal Hurst
Williamsburg, Va
Untitled by kneelhurst, on Flickr
Replacement floor sections and welding
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Re: Replacement floor sections and welding
You will probably get more replies if you post this in the technical knowledge area.
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Re: Replacement floor sections and welding
Hello
Maybe you can get some info here:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=297702&hilit=restoration#p1726039
Good luck
Greetings
Hans
Maybe you can get some info here:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=297702&hilit=restoration#p1726039
Good luck
Greetings
Hans
Living in Belgium
MB 379881
GPW 253827
MB 379881
GPW 253827
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Re: Replacement floor sections and welding
It doesn't seem too bad, you could definitely just replace patch by patch the rusted out areas. Hard to tell how the metal is around it but it might be easier to just replace the whole panel as stretching/shrinking such a large flat panel is definitely not the easiest thing.
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Re: Replacement floor sections and welding
Hello Neal,
Ok the floor looks like you can save it.
First, get a new set of hat channels from Ron , that are made by Midwest Military.
He should have them, if not call Midwest.
So, if the floor metal you have is good over the hat channels...
What I would recommend is to start with the biggest channel that goes from driver's side to passenger's side.
Clamp the new channel in the correct location.
Next, study the floor above the channel, looking from the top .
You will have rotted out areas of metal that you will make a plan to replace.
Now take the channel and place it on the top of the floor, in its exact location as it would be on the underside. Take the marker and mark the left and right edges right across the floor.
This will represent the outer limits of the hat channel.
The key in making this repair as easy and correct looking as possible, is to use a small grinder to cut out the rotted area above the channel, but not to cut it past the limit of where you marked it.
What you do is spilt the difference of the width of the flat tab on each side of the hat channel leaving some original floor metal over the tab, and leaving half the tab width as an available area to weld in a floor patch to the hat channel after you get it clamped into position.
Do not cut out the rusty metal wider that the channel.
That way when you weld the patch of steel in, you have a solid new channel to weld it to, and weld the edge of the cut back floor to at the same time.
I like to cut little triangles in the floor edge, and the patch sides, to insure a solid weld of the metal to the hat channel.
Try this and you will be very pleasantly surprised at how good the repair is. Then you can weld the rest of the seams to the channel from the top.
All the welds should be from the top of the floor, down to the new hat channel.
When done and ground smooth, nothing will be seen of your welded repair, from the bottom or top.
It makes a great clean, and hidden repair.
Make sure to clamp the new hat channel in tight before welding in the patch panel strip of metal.
Keep us posted, and good luck !!
You will need a wire feed welder, and small rotary tool grinder, a normal grinder, safety glasses, a face shield as well.
I also like using a P100 respirator under my self dimming welding helmet.
Leather gloves as well
Best Regards,
Ray
Ok the floor looks like you can save it.
First, get a new set of hat channels from Ron , that are made by Midwest Military.
He should have them, if not call Midwest.
So, if the floor metal you have is good over the hat channels...
What I would recommend is to start with the biggest channel that goes from driver's side to passenger's side.
Clamp the new channel in the correct location.
Next, study the floor above the channel, looking from the top .
You will have rotted out areas of metal that you will make a plan to replace.
Now take the channel and place it on the top of the floor, in its exact location as it would be on the underside. Take the marker and mark the left and right edges right across the floor.
This will represent the outer limits of the hat channel.
The key in making this repair as easy and correct looking as possible, is to use a small grinder to cut out the rotted area above the channel, but not to cut it past the limit of where you marked it.
What you do is spilt the difference of the width of the flat tab on each side of the hat channel leaving some original floor metal over the tab, and leaving half the tab width as an available area to weld in a floor patch to the hat channel after you get it clamped into position.
Do not cut out the rusty metal wider that the channel.
That way when you weld the patch of steel in, you have a solid new channel to weld it to, and weld the edge of the cut back floor to at the same time.
I like to cut little triangles in the floor edge, and the patch sides, to insure a solid weld of the metal to the hat channel.
Try this and you will be very pleasantly surprised at how good the repair is. Then you can weld the rest of the seams to the channel from the top.
All the welds should be from the top of the floor, down to the new hat channel.
When done and ground smooth, nothing will be seen of your welded repair, from the bottom or top.
It makes a great clean, and hidden repair.
Make sure to clamp the new hat channel in tight before welding in the patch panel strip of metal.
Keep us posted, and good luck !!
You will need a wire feed welder, and small rotary tool grinder, a normal grinder, safety glasses, a face shield as well.
I also like using a P100 respirator under my self dimming welding helmet.
Leather gloves as well
Best Regards,
Ray
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