M151 a1 rear shock

1959 - 1978, M151, M151A1, M151A2, Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the M151.
Range117
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M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Tue Jul 09, 2019 2:17 pm

Thanks for letting me join today. I recently sold my ‘53 m-37 & my ‘46 cj2a ( downsized) so I could purchase a ‘ 69 ford mutt. Always wanted one and love it! One problem though was a passenger side rear shock that was making one heck of a rattle so I ordered a new shock along w the bushings & bolts.
Well after 2 days of trying to get the top bolt out with no luck ( pb blaster, tapping, etc) the bolt still wouldn’t come out so... stupid me used a sawzall to cut bolt. Well guess mistake cause the ( what I thought was a washer on nut side looks like it was a permanent “ spacer/bushing”?
Well it didn’t help as bolt although loose still won’t come out. Sorry for being long in the word but here’s the question, can I buy that “ spacer/ bushing? Looked online but can’t find. Thanks & don’t kick me out yet!

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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Rickf » Tue Jul 09, 2019 5:20 pm

I think what you cut was a part of the body/ mount for the shock since the mounting for the shock is nothing more than the bolt as far as I remember. What it sounds like to me is that the bolt is rusted into the shock bushing. When you cut you needed to have the blade tight against the rubber bushing so as to only cut the bolt. You will probably need to do the same on the other side of the bushing but make sure you are ONLY cutting the bolt! If that piece you cut off is part of the mount as I think it is you will somehow have to weld it back on there, I don't envy you.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:31 am

Kinda what I thought, thanks. Don’t envy me either.

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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by muttguru » Wed Jul 10, 2019 5:43 am

Hi Rick and Range.....
it may be that Range has cut part of the spacer sleeve (item 9) or the spring washer (item 11). If that's the case, he is fortunate. If he has cut the shock mounting bracket itself....he needs to get that fixed professionally. If the shock absorber tears loose during a turn........it's cheerio !

Ken
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Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:00 am

Ken, thank you for your reply & diagram.
I cut the bolt ( 12 ) and the outer washer ( 9 )
Dropped. The diagram doesn’t show what I think is a sleeve that was attached to (9) and what I believe (12)is stuck inside to. I have tried everything & (12) is still stuck. Guess @ this pt. Go ahead & cut other side of (11) at least on o/s next to bolt head? Thanks,
range


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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Rickf » Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:58 am

Range117, I for some reason thought you were working on an A2! If you are working on an A1 then Ken is right and you should be able to replace that washer with one from just about any shock absorber kit. Any shop probably has a few old ones laying around since new shocks all come with new washers. Sorry for the scare. :roll: :? :oops:
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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Jeeps4Brains
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Jeeps4Brains » Wed Jul 10, 2019 7:24 am

he needs to get that fixed professionally.
As in welded back in well? Not a bubba job.
45' MB, ??' MBT, 47' CJ2A, 48' CJ2A,
51' M38 #1, 51' M38 #2, 51' M100,
52' M37, ??' M101A1 (1st Gulf War Vet),
53' M38A1, 53' M211, 65' M151A1, 67' M416,
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Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Wed Jul 10, 2019 7:36 am

Thanks for yalls help. Will get to it this afternoon & will see..

Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:18 am

Right! Understood.

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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Rickf » Wed Jul 10, 2019 10:25 am

Jeeps4Brains wrote:
Wed Jul 10, 2019 7:24 am
he needs to get that fixed professionally.
As in welded back in well? Not a bubba job.
He has an A1 so what I said is moot point, they are different.

Ranger, the sleeve you are talking about is probably the sleeve that goes through the shock bushing and that is what the bolt is frozen on. That is not going to come out and should be part of the new shock. The part that fell out might or might not come with the new one but if it is not chewed up to bad it can be painted and reused. I would try to cut the bolt on the inside of the mounting bracket unless you think you have enough movement to get the stub that will be left to slide out.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Thu Jul 11, 2019 12:28 pm

Finally! After many bi metal steel sawzaw
Blades, I got smart &bought a Diablo carbide
Tip blade.. butter!
Now, could anyone help me find the washer/
Spacer that I so nicely chewed in half?
Thanks again for the reply’s & cant wait to drive it again ( with no rattle I hope)

Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Thu Jul 11, 2019 1:32 pm

Last one, TNJ Murray to the rescue I hope.

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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by tankjeepman » Sat Sep 14, 2019 11:16 am

In the future you might try the one method that will always loosen rusted nuts & bolts. Heat nut or bolt red hot (propane torch (good), Presto lite (better), acetylene (best). Quence with water (careful). Repeat as needed. The heat will turn the rust to dust. The expansion and contraction will break the rust bonds. Get a heat shield that plumbers use and be careful what is behind or around the area you are heating. I have had nuts rusted solid eventually come loose using this method.
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Range117
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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Range117 » Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:06 am

Thanks for that helpful tip! I’ll be tackling the other rear shock soon🥴

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Re: M151 a1 rear shock

Post by Rickf » Sun Sep 15, 2019 7:13 am

If it is a steel nut I usually try to remove while nut is still glowing, That usually work but if that does not work then the heat and cool method will do the trick since it also creates a bit of clearance between the parts as they expand and shrink at different rates. If you have a rusted in bolt then the heat and cool method is especially helpful since heating the bole expands it in the hole and when it cools there is a bit more room. This works well when working with a broken bolt in an engine block where there is no way you are going to heat the block enough to do any good.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
12/1952 M100- Departed
AN/TSQ-114A Trailblazer- Gone

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